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#1
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Electrical box
Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ...
I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ... evidently it broke in the hole. There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? |
#2
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Electrical box
On Sep 17, 8:31*am, "
wrote: Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ... I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ... evidently it broke in the hole. *There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. *The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? Instead of a drill you're probably going to want to use an easy-out to attempt to back the screw out. You can also drill out the hole and replace the screw with a bigger one. |
#4
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Electrical box
On Sep 17, 9:44*am, keith wrote:
On Sep 17, 8:31*am, " wrote: Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ... I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ... evidently it broke in the hole. *There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. *The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? Instead of a drill you're probably going to want to use an easy-out to attempt to back the screw out. *You can also drill out the hole and replace the screw with a bigger one. I don't see how he can use an easy out on a screw that small. It;s not a 1/4 bolt. If there is enough screw on the far side, willshak's suggestion of using the bent type of needle nose pliars sounds good. Also, if there is enough on the front side to try to get a grip on, I'd use something more like a small pair of lineman type pliers that have small teeth on them to try to get it, rather than needle nose which are smooth. |
#6
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Electrical box
keith wrote:
On Sep 17, 8:31 am, " wrote: Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ... I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole .... evidently it broke in the hole. There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? Instead of a drill you're probably going to want to use an easy-out to attempt to back the screw out. You can also drill out the hole and replace the screw with a bigger one. You have to drill a hole in the screw to fit the easy out into don't you know? -- LSMFT |
#7
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Electrical box
On Sep 17, 10:37*am, dpb wrote:
You talking the cover plate mount hole or the grounding screw, just to be certain? *If the latter, just drill a new hole and go on... If the former 'tis a pita. *If it took me more than 10 minutes fooling with it I'd probably just replace the box and go on. Is the bottom screw that holds the receptacle to to box. The issue with replacing the box is having to fix the drywall that I'd have to cut to get the box out ... trying to avoid going that route if at all possible. |
#8
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Electrical box
wrote the following:
On Sep 17, 10:37 am, dpb wrote: You talking the cover plate mount hole or the grounding screw, just to be certain? If the latter, just drill a new hole and go on... If the former 'tis a pita. If it took me more than 10 minutes fooling with it I'd probably just replace the box and go on. Is the bottom screw that holds the receptacle to to box. The issue with replacing the box is having to fix the drywall that I'd have to cut to get the box out ... trying to avoid going that route if at all possible. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq4UkWsUWoo -- Bill In Hamptonburgh, NY In the original Orange County. Est. 1683 To email, remove the double zeroes after @ |
#9
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Electrical box
willshak wrote the following:
wrote the following: On Sep 17, 10:37 am, dpb wrote: You talking the cover plate mount hole or the grounding screw, just to be certain? If the latter, just drill a new hole and go on... If the former 'tis a pita. If it took me more than 10 minutes fooling with it I'd probably just replace the box and go on. Is the bottom screw that holds the receptacle to to box. The issue with replacing the box is having to fix the drywall that I'd have to cut to get the box out ... trying to avoid going that route if at all possible. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq4UkWsUWoo ....and putting a new box in. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reUPG...eature=related -- Bill In Hamptonburgh, NY In the original Orange County. Est. 1683 To email, remove the double zeroes after @ |
#11
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Electrical box
On Sep 17, 9:25*am, wrote:
On Sep 17, 9:44*am, keith wrote: On Sep 17, 8:31*am, " wrote: Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ... I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole .... evidently it broke in the hole. *There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. *The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? Instead of a drill you're probably going to want to use an easy-out to attempt to back the screw out. *You can also drill out the hole and replace the screw with a bigger one. I don't see how he can use an easy out on a screw that small. * It;s not a 1/4 bolt. * If there is enough screw on the far side, willshak's suggestion of using the bent type of needle nose pliars sounds good. Also, if there is enough on the front side to try to get a grip on, I'd use something more like a small pair of lineman type pliers that have small teeth on them to try to get it, rather than needle nose which are smooth. No, it's an 8-32 screw. There are extractors that will take them out. If he can get the screw to go either direction the screw can be removed. Or, as I said, he can drill it out and use a larger screw (eitehr tapping the hole or use a sheet metal screw. |
#12
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Electrical box
On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 06:31:05 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ... I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ... evidently it broke in the hole. There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? It has probably been suggested already, but I didn't read the replies. You can try to grip the screw inside the box and twist it where the screw will run into the box and fall out. |
#13
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Electrical box
On Sep 17, 2:31*pm, "
wrote: Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ... I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ... evidently it broke in the hole. *There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. *The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? If all else fails drill out and use a self tapping screw. |
#14
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Electrical box
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#15
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Electrical box
dpb wrote:
wrote: On Sep 17, 10:37 am, dpb wrote: You talking the cover plate mount hole or the grounding screw, just to be certain? If the latter, just drill a new hole and go on... If the former 'tis a pita. If it took me more than 10 minutes fooling with it I'd probably just replace the box and go on. Is the bottom screw that holds the receptacle to to box. The issue with replacing the box is having to fix the drywall that I'd have to cut to get the box out ... trying to avoid going that route if at all possible. It's faster to fix a little drywall the the grief is worth otherwise... Intended to add -- the way to fix it if it can be is to drill out the broken screw and re-tap the hole. Again, if that didn't succeed in about 10 minutes or less I'd be on to the next stage and be done in the time spent here so far... -- |
#16
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Electrical box
wrote in message ... Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ... I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ... evidently it broke in the hole. There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? I try to break the screw off flush and use a #6 Philips head self drilling screw to replace it |
#17
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Electrical box
wrote in message ... Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ... I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ... evidently it broke in the hole. There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? 24 hours after you spray the thing with liquid wrench try a bit that is half the diameter of the screw. If you are living right the screw will pop out the back side with no damage to the threads. Worst case you drill it out and use a larger screw. -- Colbyt Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com |
#18
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Electrical box
On 09/17/2010 06:39 PM, Colbyt wrote:
wrote in message ... Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ... I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ... evidently it broke in the hole. There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? 24 hours after you spray the thing with liquid wrench try a bit that is half the diameter of the screw. If you are living right the screw will pop out the back side with no damage to the threads. Worst case you drill it out and use a larger screw. I've managed to pop several "new work" boxes out and replace with old work boxes with just a screwdriver, crowbar, and hammer. No damage to walls. Of course the walls in my house are plaster which is slightly more resilient than sheetrock. Still, it is an option. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#19
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Electrical box
On Sep 17, 6:41*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
I've managed to pop several "new work" boxes out and replace with old work boxes with just a screwdriver, crowbar, and hammer. *No damage to walls. *Of course the walls in my house are plaster which is slightly more resilient than sheetrock. *Still, it is an option. Thank you Nate and everyone else. I've got a few things to try tomorrow. One of bigger issues that I have with removing/replacing the box is that the box is apparently a ... for lack of a better term ... sidestrap box based on other reno we've done and what I've found elsewhere. So if you're looking forward at the box, the box resides on the left of a stud with the attachment wrapping and nailed to the front of the stud (older home, nothing in here is what one would expect). While the example video was informative, it's not an option to saw through some nails to get the box out. However, I appreciate all replies and ideas, and will tackle this this weekend. Thank you. |
#20
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Electrical box
On Sep 17, 7:08*pm, "
wrote: On Sep 17, 6:41*pm, Nate Nagel wrote: I've managed to pop several "new work" boxes out and replace with old work boxes with just a screwdriver, crowbar, and hammer. *No damage to walls. *Of course the walls in my house are plaster which is slightly more resilient than sheetrock. *Still, it is an option. Thank you Nate and everyone else. *I've got a few things to try tomorrow. One of bigger issues that I have with removing/replacing the box is that the box is apparently a ... for lack of a better term ... sidestrap box based on other reno we've done and what I've found elsewhere. *So if you're looking forward at the box, the box resides on the left of a stud with the attachment wrapping and nailed to the front of the stud (older home, nothing in here is what one would expect). *While the example video was informative, it's not an option to saw through some nails to get the box out. However, I appreciate all replies and ideas, and will tackle this this weekend. Thank you. No one mentioned another option........having found boxes where the wires are way too short.. install a new box nearby, run romex between boxes and use a blank cover on the abandoned box..... |
#21
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Electrical box
Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ...
I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ... evidently it broke in the hole. There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? I drilled two today. It's a 6/32 screw with not much to drill into. I have a bunch of tiny drill bits and slowly work up to a #36 or 7/64". Sometimes the broken piece will loosen and fall out as you're drilling. Sometimes the drill bit will break. Have a 6/32 tap and an 8/32 tap handy in case you need to make the hole bigger. It's a slow process, but worth it if it keeps you from having to repair the wall. Mine were embedded in brick. |
#22
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Electrical box
On Sep 17, 8:04*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ... I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ... evidently it broke in the hole. *There is nowhere to grip it on either side, not even with needlenose pliers. *The plies basically slide off as soon as I go to turn it. Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier way? I drilled two today. *It's a 6/32 screw with not much to drill into. *I have a bunch of tiny drill bits and slowly work up to a *#36 or 7/64". *Sometimes the broken piece will loosen and fall out as you're drilling. *Sometimes the drill bit will break. Have a 6/32 tap and an 8/32 tap handy in case you need to make the hole bigger. *It's a slow process, but worth it if it keeps you from having to repair the wall. *Mine were embedded in brick. The screw in question is to mount the outlet to the box, so drilling out the screw and replacing it with a larger screw is invisible as long as the replacement screw does not have so big a head that the coverplate will not go flush to the wall. I would drill it out with any reasonable-sized drill bit, find a sheet metal screw that will secure the outlet, and put the cover plate on. 5 minutes maximum as long as you have an electric drill of some type and some small drill bits. |
#23
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Electrical box
On Sep 17, 7:08*pm, "
wrote: Thank you Nate and everyone else. *I've got a few things to try tomorrow. One of bigger issues that I have with removing/replacing the box is that the box is apparently a ... for lack of a better term ... sidestrap box based on other reno we've done and what I've found elsewhere. *So if you're looking forward at the box, the box resides on the left of a stud with the attachment wrapping and nailed to the front of the stud (older home, nothing in here is what one would expect). *While the example video was informative, it's not an option to saw through some nails to get the box out. However, I appreciate all replies and ideas, and will tackle this this weekend. Thank you. Just a follow up ... tried a drill bit, just couldn't get a grip to push it through. As originally posted, I made more of it than needed. Had to get some corrosion off the back of the screw and then used needle-nose on the back-end of the screw to move it a little, a little more and finally got it out (a quarter turn at a time). I appreciate all of the replies and ideas. Hopefully it'll help others too. |
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