Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Maybe the breaker is loose or going bad.

On Aug 1, 12:48*am, Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. *It covers the microwave and
regular oven. *I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster *runs at same time as microwave. *But now it's blowing
all on its own.

*Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" *a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? *If so, why? *And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

20 amp breaker for my living room was tripping so I swapped the wires
to my bedroom. Problem stayed with the breaker indicating the breaker
was bad.

Jimmie

Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Breakers go bad. Buy new breaker.

Jon

On Aug 1, 12:48*am, Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. *It covers the microwave and
regular oven. *I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster *runs at same time as microwave. *But now it's blowing
all on its own.

*Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" *a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? *If so, why? *And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

As others have said, probably a bad breaker.

Quick test: Plug the microwave into another circuit and use it as
normal.

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but larger?
It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the two
appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling
more amps that it normally does.

Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy loads,
the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the
amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on
some days as the AC load goes way up.

120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and you
get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A

Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that, I'm guessing
overload. Personally, I'd not run a MW and oven together for just that
reason.

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

The best test is to clamp an ammeter on the circuit and see what it's
drawing. If there is nothing on the circuit but the microwave being used,
it's probably a bad microwave or breaker

On 7/31/2010 11:48 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Fuses and breakers are blown by queer electrons, often referred to
as homotrons or gaytrons. Even though homotrons are gaining wider
acceptance among the atomic community, older equipment often has
trouble dealing with their alternative current. 8-)

TDD

Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Try plugging it somewhere else. If the same problem then it's the
device, if not it's the breaker.

--
LSMFT

Those who would give up Essential Liberty
to purchase a little Temporary Safety,
deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.
Benjamin Franklin--

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Have a new dedicated 20 amp circuit installed to the microwave.

Older homes have many things on the same circuits. You can resolve breaker
tripping problems by placing "power hogs" on their own breakers/circuits.
Then you just need to run one new wire to one thing.

Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.


Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:


"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...

Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.


What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but
larger? It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the
two appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be
pulling more amps that it normally does.

Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy
loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that
increases the amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that
may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up.

120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and
you get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A

Whaaaaat?

I seriously doubt that you are correct about that. I say the current at
110 volts would be closer to 11.5 amps. It's quite unlikely that an
appliance would be sophisticated enough to continue to consume the same
number of watts when the voltage is lowered.

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that, I'm guessing
overload. Personally, I'd not run a MW and oven together for just that
reason.

"jeff_wisnia" wrote in message
...
Ed Pawlowski wrote:


"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...

Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.


What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but larger?
It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the two
appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling
more amps that it normally does.

Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy
loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that
increases the amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that
may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up.

120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and you
get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A

Whaaaaat?

I seriously doubt that you are correct about that. I say the current at
110 volts would be closer to 11.5 amps. It's quite unlikely that an
appliance would be sophisticated enough to continue to consume the same
number of watts when the voltage is lowered.

I didn't make the laws of physics, but I usually follow them. Amps = volts
÷ watts. If one changes, another will. Are you saying the rated watts of
the heating element will change?

On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 08:09:59 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but larger?
It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the two
appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling
more amps that it normally does.

Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy loads,
the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the
amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on
some days as the AC load goes way up.

120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and you
get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A

Except the load usually behaves the other way. !500 watts at 120
volts, and 1250 watts at 110.

Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that, I'm guessing
overload. Personally, I'd not run a MW and oven together for just that
reason.


The OP wasn't running them together - they were on the same circuit,
but he was ONLY running the Microwave - and the circuit breaker is by
far the most likely problem.

On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 14:26:05 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"jeff_wisnia" wrote in message
m...
Ed Pawlowski wrote:


"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...

Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.


What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but larger?
It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the two
appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling
more amps that it normally does.

Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy
loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that
increases the amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that
may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up.

120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and you
get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A

Whaaaaat?

I seriously doubt that you are correct about that. I say the current at
110 volts would be closer to 11.5 amps. It's quite unlikely that an
appliance would be sophisticated enough to continue to consume the same
number of watts when the voltage is lowered.

I didn't make the laws of physics, but I usually follow them. Amps = volts
÷ watts. If one changes, another will. Are you saying the rated watts of
the heating element will change?
No, what he (and I) am saying is the resistance (effective load) will
stay the same, and if the voltage drops, the power consumed will also
drop. The only place that doesn't happen is with induction motors
where the back EMF drops, making them draw more current when the
voltage drops.

On Aug 1, 2:26*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
I didn't make the laws of physics, but I usually follow them. *Amps = volts
÷ watts. * *If one changes, another will. *Are you saying the rated watts of
the heating element will change?

The rated watts of a heating element is generally an estimation based
on the typical outlet voltage divided by the resistance of the
element. If the voltage goes down the resistance doesn't change (much)
and so the wattage and amperage go down.

However...a microwave doesn't use a heating element as such. It does
have a high voltage power supply which IS pretty sophisticated
(controlled by solid state electronics) it may try to maintain a
constant output power which would require a higher input amperage at a
reduced input voltage. Or, it may only care about maintaining the
correct frequency and let the power fluctuate with input voltage...
I'm not sure which...

On Sun, 01 Aug 2010 15:24:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 14:26:05 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"jeff_wisnia" wrote in message
om...
Ed Pawlowski wrote:


"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...

Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.


What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but larger?
It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the two
appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling
more amps that it normally does.

Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy
loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that
increases the amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that
may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up.

120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and you
get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A

Whaaaaat?

I seriously doubt that you are correct about that. I say the current at
110 volts would be closer to 11.5 amps. It's quite unlikely that an
appliance would be sophisticated enough to continue to consume the same
number of watts when the voltage is lowered.

I didn't make the laws of physics, but I usually follow them. Amps = volts
÷ watts. If one changes, another will. Are you saying the rated watts of
the heating element will change?
No, what he (and I) am saying is the resistance (effective load) will
stay the same, and if the voltage drops, the power consumed will also
drop. The only place that doesn't happen is with induction motors
where the back EMF drops, making them draw more current when the
voltage drops.

And most electronics (anything with regulated power supplies).

"Larry Fishel" wrote in message
...

However...a microwave doesn't use a heating element as such. It does
have a high voltage power supply which IS pretty sophisticated
controlled by solid state electronics) it may try to maintain a
constant output power which would require a higher input amperage at a
reduced input voltage. Or, it may only care about maintaining the
correct frequency and let the power fluctuate with input voltage...
I'm not sure which...

The high voltage supply of a microwave oven is as simple as it gets. Just a
transformer, diode and capacitor. Then the one tube magnetron. If the
voltage drops, the heating power of the microwave goes down.
It does not even care about the frequency all that much. Just a simple
oscillator circuit.

The microwave ovens with the mechanical timers are about as simple as they
come.

The only complicated electronics in the microwave is the ones with the
electronic keypads for setting the clock and time. They are not really that
much more than an alarm clock.

In ,
typed:
On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 08:09:59 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the
microwave and regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance,
like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as
microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to
"reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And
what should I do about it.

Any info appreciated.

What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster
oven but larger? It may have been marginal all along.
What is the rating of the two appliances? If the
microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling more
amps that it normally does.

Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer
with heavy loads, the power company sometimes reduces the
voltage a bit and that increases the amps. If you live
in an area of high tempertures that may be going on some
days as the AC load goes way up.

120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to
110 volts and you get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A
breaker is 16A

Except the load usually behaves the other way. !500 watts
at 120 volts, and 1250 watts at 110.

Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that,
I'm guessing overload. Personally, I'd not run a MW and
oven together for just that reason.


The OP wasn't running them together - they were on the same
circuit, but he was ONLY running the Microwave - and the
circuit breaker is by far the most likely problem.

+1 Agreed.
It's interesting how the guessers and faux experts climb out of the woodwork
for electrical questions as though it were the safest, easiest thing in the
world to understand and work with. The degeneration of this thread has gone
far enough off base as to make choosing which responses are useful and which
are not.

Twayne`

On 7/31/2010 11:48 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

how does it "cover the microwave and regular oven"? And yes, you could
have a weak breaker. Replacing it is the first step to solving the
problem. (especially if this hasn't always happened).

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 12:54:39 -0700 (PDT), Larry Fishel
wrote:

On Aug 1, 2:26Â*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
I didn't make the laws of physics, but I usually follow them. Â*Amps = volts
÷ watts. Â* Â*If one changes, another will. Â*Are you saying the rated watts of
the heating element will change?

The rated watts of a heating element is generally an estimation based
on the typical outlet voltage divided by the resistance of the
element. If the voltage goes down the resistance doesn't change (much)
and so the wattage and amperage go down.

However...a microwave doesn't use a heating element as such. It does
have a high voltage power supply which IS pretty sophisticated
(controlled by solid state electronics) it may try to maintain a
constant output power which would require a higher input amperage at a
reduced input voltage. Or, it may only care about maintaining the
correct frequency and let the power fluctuate with input voltage...
I'm not sure which...
Our panasonic looses output power when the voltage sags. An INVERTER
type (newer high end) system may maintain the output, as does a
regulated switch-mode type computer power supply .

On Jul 31, 11:48*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. *It covers the microwave and
regular oven. *I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster *runs at same time as microwave. *But now it's blowing
all on its own.

*Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" *a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? *If so, why? *And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Higgs the troll. Plonk.

Joe

On Aug 1, 5:09*am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

...

Lately, one circuit on my box blows. *It covers the microwave and
regular oven. *I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster *runs at same time as microwave. *But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" *a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? *If so, why? *And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

What is the "regular oven" you speak of? *Like a toaster oven but larger?
It may have been marginal all along. *What is the rating of the two
appliances? *If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling
more amps that it normally does.

Oops - I should have made it clear that only the instrument panel on
the "regular oven"
went out - IOW, the time of day and light bulb inside went out. This
is a regular
wall oven with two compartments. It doesn't pull anything to speak
of.

The microwave oven is new - replaced only a few months ago.

Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? *In the summer with heavy loads,
the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the
amps. * *If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on
some days as the AC load goes way up.

I don't have AC. (live in a near-perfect climate!)

*120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A *reduce to 110 volts and you
get 13.6A * Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A

Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that, I'm guessing
overload. * Personally, I'd not run a MW and oven together for just that
reason.

OK, based on what I've read on this thread, and from my vast well of
ignorance, I think it may, in fact, be a bad breaker. Note that I
reported that in the past, MW only went out when used same time as
other HEAT using devices (toaster oven; toaster).

Tx for your analysis.

On Aug 1, 10:11*am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. *It covers the microwave and
regular oven. *I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster *runs at same time as microwave. *But now it's blowing
all on its own.

*Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" *a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? *If so, why? *And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.


From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the
microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the
microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the
circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a
bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that
circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?

On Aug 2, 7:14*am, "RBM" wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

...
On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:





Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. *Is there a way for a *non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? * How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)



Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the
microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the
microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the
circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a
bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that
circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm inclined to think he has a gas oven and the circuit supplies the
microwave as well as 115 for the oven light/timer/whatever. At the
price, replacing the breaker is the simplest test he can perform.

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
On Aug 2, 7:14 am, "RBM" wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

...
On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:





Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)



Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the
microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the
microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the
circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a
bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that
circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?-
Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm inclined to think he has a gas oven and the circuit supplies the
microwave as well as 115 for the oven light/timer/whatever. At the
price, replacing the breaker is the simplest test he can perform.

I'm inclined to agree. It would certainly help to know the age of the
house, which could help to determine how it may have been wired. If it's a
fairly new house, the circuits for kitchen counter outlets can be shared
with a gas stove outlet, a refrigerator outlet, and the dining room outlets.
This makes it possible that something else may be running at the same time
as the microwave. If it's an old house with no particular code to the
wiring, it may be a 15 amp circuit, shared with anything, anywhere in the
house.

On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 21:46:23 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote:

On Aug 1, 5:09Â*am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

...

Lately, one circuit on my box blows. Â*It covers the microwave and
regular oven. Â*I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster Â*runs at same time as microwave. Â*But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" Â*a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? Â*If so, why? Â*And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Â*Like a toaster oven but larger?
It may have been marginal all along. Â*What is the rating of the two
appliances? Â*If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling
more amps that it normally does.

Oops - I should have made it clear that only the instrument panel on
the "regular oven"
went out - IOW, the time of day and light bulb inside went out. This
is a regular
wall oven with two compartments. It doesn't pull anything to speak
of.

The microwave oven is new - replaced only a few months ago.

Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? Â*In the summer with heavy loads,
the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the
amps. Â* Â*If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on
some days as the AC load goes way up.

I don't have AC. (live in a near-perfect climate!)

Â*120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A Â*reduce to 110 volts and you
get 13.6A Â* Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A

Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that, I'm guessing
overload. Â* Personally, I'd not run a MW and oven together for just that
reason.

OK, based on what I've read on this thread, and from my vast well of
ignorance, I think it may, in fact, be a bad breaker. Note that I
reported that in the past, MW only went out when used same time as
other HEAT using devices (toaster oven; toaster).

Tx for your analysis.

A breaker will only trip from overload so many times before it starts
to malfunction (usually false trip), so if you've been kicking it by
plugging in the toaster and the MW at the same time, that is likely
what has happened. I'm assuming your "regular" oven is gas-fired???

On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 21:50:18 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote:

On Aug 1, 10:11Â*am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. Â*It covers the microwave and
regular oven. Â*I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster Â*runs at same time as microwave. Â*But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Â*Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" Â*a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? Â*If so, why? Â*And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.
You can be almost guaranteed you do NOT have a GFI breaker installed
in the panel. If you did, you would know because it has a test button
(generally, anyways)

jamesgangnc wrote:

I'm inclined to think he has a gas oven and the circuit supplies the
microwave as well as 115 for the oven light/timer/whatever. At the
price, replacing the breaker is the simplest test he can perform.

Simpler would be to swap wires in the breaker box and see if the problem
moves.

On Aug 1, 8:09*am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
*In the summer with heavy loads,
the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the
amps.

Wow. Um. Just wow. Do apples fall UP in your world?

James Watt and Georg Ohm are rolling over in their graves.

The power company doesn't reduce the voltage. The excessive strain put
on the power grid is what causes the voltage to drop...

Amps don't increase when voltage drops, either. On simple resistive
appliances, lower voltage causes lower Amps.

wrote in message
...
On Aug 1, 8:09 am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
In the summer with heavy loads,
the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases
the
amps.

Wow. Um. Just wow. Do apples fall UP in your world?

James Watt and Georg Ohm are rolling over in their graves.

The power company doesn't reduce the voltage. The excessive strain put
on the power grid is what causes the voltage to drop...

Amps don't increase when voltage drops, either. On simple resistive
appliances, lower voltage causes lower Amps.

This thread is full of misinformation. The power grid has reduced the
voltage during periods of high demand. At the same time the frequency is
slightly reduced from exactly 60 Hz. When the demand is reduced, the
frequency is slightly above 60 Hz so the over all frequency will average 60
Hz over the long period of time. At this time the voltage will be slightly
higher as the voltage is determined partly by the speed of the generators.

The power grid can not increase the amps. That is determined by the load of
the grid. If the voltage is reduced, the current usually goes down for many
devices.

On Aug 2, 4:14*am, "RBM" wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

...
On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:



Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. *Is there a way for a *non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? * How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)



Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the
microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the
microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the
circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a
bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that
circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?

The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. It is
a
Sears Kenmore Elite. Here are the specs:

Power Supply: 120 V AC, 60 Hz
Rated Power Consumption: 1,600 W
Microwave Output: 1,200 W
Rated Current: 14.0 A

You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. As
another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW
circuits.

How do I find out whether it is a 15 or 20 amp circuit? Is this
relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a
dedicated MW circuit installed?

******QUESTION: What should such an electrician visit cost, including
parts. This is a fairly expensive area,
and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead.
Estimates appreciated.

In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit
trips: No, just the light panel on the wall oven
and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and
pulling juice. Nothing in another room.

Your advice much appreciated.

As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic

On Aug 2, 6:57*am, "RBM" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Aug 2, 7:14 am, "RBM" wrote:



"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

....
On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the
microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the
microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the
circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a
bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that
circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?-
Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm inclined to think he has a gas oven and the circuit supplies the
microwave as well as 115 for the oven light/timer/whatever. *At the
price, replacing the breaker is the simplest test he can perform.

I'm inclined to agree. *It would certainly help to know the age of the
house, which could help *to determine how it may have been wired. If it's a
fairly new house, the circuits for kitchen counter outlets can be shared
with a gas stove outlet, a refrigerator outlet, and the dining room outlets.
This makes it possible that something else may be running at the same time
as the microwave. If it's an old house with no particular code to the
wiring, it may be a 15 amp circuit, shared with anything, anywhere in the
house.

In answer to the above messages, yes, it is a gas oven.

The house is pretty old; 40's, I think. However, I did have
electrical work done several decades
ago -- can't remember exactly when or what (sob) -- and a modern
breaker box installed.
There are 11 breakers serving different parts of the house and
garden. Things are up to code.

On Aug 4, 12:37*am, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Aug 2, 4:14*am, "RBM" wrote:





"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

....
On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. *Is there a way for a *non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? * How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the
microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the
microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the
circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a
bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that
circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?

The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. *It is
a
Sears Kenmore Elite. *Here are the specs:

Power Supply: * *120 V AC, 60 Hz
Rated Power Consumption: *1,600 W
Microwave Output: *1,200 W
Rated Current: 14.0 A

You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. *As
another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW
circuits.

How do I find out whether it is a *15 or 20 amp circuit? *Is this
relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a
dedicated MW circuit installed?

******QUESTION: *What should such an electrician visit cost, including
parts. This is a fairly expensive area,
and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead.
Estimates appreciated.

In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit
trips: *No, just the light panel on the wall oven
and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and
pulling juice. *Nothing in another room.

Your advice much appreciated.

As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

By reading the breaker handle. If it is a 15amp circuit then it would
be helpful to know how much of the rest of the kitchen is on it. That
microwave is going to pull around 12 to 13 amps based on it's 1600
watt label. If you are on a 15amp circuit and the fridge is also on
it then your problem is probably that the fridge tries to start up
while the microwave is running. I'm also inclined to guess you had a
less powerfull microwave before. You can not use other stuff in the
kitchen while microwaving but you can't really easily control when the
fridge will try to kick in.

Upgrading the circuit to 20 amp is not very practical. Running a new
dedicated circuit for the microwave would be your simplest solution.
How much that costs depends on a lot of variables like distance from
the breaker panel and how difficult it will be to run the wire. Where
you are factors in as well, some locations are only going to allow a
licensed electrician or the homeowner to perform this work. In that
case an economical alternative solution is to get a more knowledgable
friend to help you diy it. You'd be better off getting some local
quotes as far as possible prices go than asking here.

Wierdly I am having the exact same issue, a microwave tripping
breaker. Its done it a few times now.......

Yesterday it tripped again and wouldnt reset. So its time for a new
breaker.

The microwave on another circuit is working fine

On Aug 4, 8:32*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 4, 12:37*am, Higgs Boson wrote:





On Aug 2, 4:14*am, "RBM" wrote:

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

....
On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. *Is there a way for a *non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? * How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the
microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the
microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the
circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a
bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that
circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?

The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. *It is
a
Sears Kenmore Elite. *Here are the specs:

Power Supply: * *120 V AC, 60 Hz
Rated Power Consumption: *1,600 W
Microwave Output: *1,200 W
Rated Current: 14.0 A

You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. *As
another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW
circuits.

How do I find out whether it is a *15 or 20 amp circuit? *Is this
relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a
dedicated MW circuit installed?

******QUESTION: *What should such an electrician visit cost, including
parts. This is a fairly expensive area,
and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead.
Estimates appreciated.

In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit
trips: *No, just the light panel on the wall oven
and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and
pulling juice. *Nothing in another room.

Your advice much appreciated.

As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

By reading the breaker handle. *If it is a 15amp circuit then it would
be helpful to know how much of the rest of the kitchen is on it. *That
microwave is going to pull around 12 to 13 amps based on it's 1600
watt label. *If you are on a 15amp circuit and the fridge is also on
it then your problem is probably that the fridge tries to start up
while the microwave is running. *I'm also inclined to guess you had a
less powerfull microwave before. *You can not use other stuff in the
kitchen while microwaving but you can't really easily control when the
fridge will try to kick in.

Upgrading the circuit to 20 amp is not very practical. *Running a new
dedicated circuit for the microwave would be your simplest solution.
How much that costs depends on a lot of variables like distance from
the breaker panel and how difficult it will be to run the wire. *Where
you are factors in as well, some locations are only going to allow a
licensed electrician or the homeowner to perform this work. *In that
case an economical alternative solution is to get a more knowledgable
friend to help you diy it. *You'd be better off getting some local
quotes as far as possible prices go than asking here.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Agree with the above. The MW is rated at 14 amps, 1600 watts. If
it's on a 15 amp breaker, that doesn't leave much for any other load.
Which is why with new wiring there is a dedicated circuit for the
microwave. Another possible alternative that would be a lot less
expensive is finding a MW that is lower power.

But first he needs to determine:

Is it a 15 amp breaker/circuit?
What else is on that circuit.
Can he easily avoid any additional load on the MW circuit by moving
any other loads to a different circuit, eg plug the toaster into a
different outlet.

On Wed, 4 Aug 2010 11:08:47 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Aug 4, 8:32Â*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 4, 12:37Â*am, Higgs Boson wrote:





On Aug 2, 4:14Â*am, "RBM" wrote:

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

...
On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. Â*Is there a way for a Â*non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? Â* How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the
microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the
microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the
circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a
bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that
circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?

The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. Â*It is
a
Sears Kenmore Elite. Â*Here are the specs:

Power Supply: Â* Â*120 V AC, 60 Hz
Rated Power Consumption: Â*1,600 W
Microwave Output: Â*1,200 W
Rated Current: 14.0 A

You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. Â*As
another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW
circuits.

How do I find out whether it is a Â*15 or 20 amp circuit? Â*Is this
relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a
dedicated MW circuit installed?

******QUESTION: Â*What should such an electrician visit cost, including
parts. This is a fairly expensive area,
and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead.
Estimates appreciated.

In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit
trips: Â*No, just the light panel on the wall oven
and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and
pulling juice. Â*Nothing in another room.

Your advice much appreciated.

As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

By reading the breaker handle. Â*If it is a 15amp circuit then it would
be helpful to know how much of the rest of the kitchen is on it. Â*That
microwave is going to pull around 12 to 13 amps based on it's 1600
watt label. Â*If you are on a 15amp circuit and the fridge is also on
it then your problem is probably that the fridge tries to start up
while the microwave is running. Â*I'm also inclined to guess you had a
less powerfull microwave before. Â*You can not use other stuff in the
kitchen while microwaving but you can't really easily control when the
fridge will try to kick in.

Upgrading the circuit to 20 amp is not very practical. Â*Running a new
dedicated circuit for the microwave would be your simplest solution.
How much that costs depends on a lot of variables like distance from
the breaker panel and how difficult it will be to run the wire. Â*Where
you are factors in as well, some locations are only going to allow a
licensed electrician or the homeowner to perform this work. Â*In that
case an economical alternative solution is to get a more knowledgable
friend to help you diy it. Â*You'd be better off getting some local
quotes as far as possible prices go than asking here.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Agree with the above. The MW is rated at 14 amps, 1600 watts. If
it's on a 15 amp breaker, that doesn't leave much for any other load.
Which is why with new wiring there is a dedicated circuit for the
microwave. Another possible alternative that would be a lot less
expensive is finding a MW that is lower power.

But first he needs to determine:

Is it a 15 amp breaker/circuit?
What else is on that circuit.
Can he easily avoid any additional load on the MW circuit by moving
any other loads to a different circuit, eg plug the toaster into a
different outlet.
He has answered the second half or your question several times - the
clock of the gas oven (which likely draws less than 200 Ma), and the
toaster opr toaster oven if he has it plugged in -
If he ONLY uses the Microwave, or ONLY uses the toaster, the 15 amp
breaker should hold. The only thing to do is to replace the breaker
and see what happens.
A dedicated 20 amp split countertop receptacle should be installed in
the kitchen replacing whatever he is plugging the toaster into,
leaving the Microwave and gas oven on the existing circuit. This would
give him 2 20 amp circuits to handle toasters, coffeemakers, toaster
ovens, etc without danger of tripping breakers from inadvertent
overloads - and would get him almost code compliant. (which adding a
separate circuit for the microwave would not). The countertop
receptacles should be on GFCI protected circuits whereas the microwave
and oven are not so critical that way.

On Aug 4, 6:14*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 4 Aug 2010 11:08:47 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Aug 4, 8:32*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 4, 12:37*am, Higgs Boson wrote:

On Aug 2, 4:14*am, "RBM" wrote:

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

...
On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. *Is there a way for a *non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? * How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the
microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the
microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the
circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a
bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that
circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?

The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. *It is
a
Sears Kenmore Elite. *Here are the specs:

Power Supply: * *120 V AC, 60 Hz
Rated Power Consumption: *1,600 W
Microwave Output: *1,200 W
Rated Current: 14.0 A

You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. *As
another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW
circuits.

How do I find out whether it is a *15 or 20 amp circuit? *Is this
relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a
dedicated MW circuit installed?

******QUESTION: *What should such an electrician visit cost, including
parts. This is a fairly expensive area,
and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead..
Estimates appreciated.

In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit
trips: *No, just the light panel on the wall oven
and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and
pulling juice. *Nothing in another room.

Your advice much appreciated.

As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

By reading the breaker handle. *If it is a 15amp circuit then it would
be helpful to know how much of the rest of the kitchen is on it. *That
microwave is going to pull around 12 to 13 amps based on it's 1600
watt label. *If you are on a 15amp circuit and the fridge is also on
it then your problem is probably that the fridge tries to start up
while the microwave is running. *I'm also inclined to guess you had a
less powerfull microwave before. *You can not use other stuff in the
kitchen while microwaving but you can't really easily control when the
fridge will try to kick in.

Upgrading the circuit to 20 amp is not very practical. *Running a new
dedicated circuit for the microwave would be your simplest solution.
How much that costs depends on a lot of variables like distance from
the breaker panel and how difficult it will be to run the wire. *Where
you are factors in as well, some locations are only going to allow a
licensed electrician or the homeowner to perform this work. *In that
case an economical alternative solution is to get a more knowledgable
friend to help you diy it. *You'd be better off getting some local
quotes as far as possible prices go than asking here.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree with the above. *The MW is rated at 14 amps, 1600 watts. * If
it's on a 15 amp breaker, that doesn't leave much for any other load.
Which is why with new wiring there is a dedicated circuit for the
microwave. * Another possible alternative that would be a lot less
expensive is finding a MW that is lower power.

But first he needs to determine:

Is it a 15 amp breaker/circuit?
What else is on that circuit.
Can he easily avoid any additional load on the MW circuit by moving
any other loads to a different circuit, eg plug the toaster into a
different outlet.

*He has answered the second half or your question several times - the
clock of the gas oven (which likely draws less than 200 Ma), and the
toaster opr toaster oven if he has it plugged in -
If he ONLY uses the Microwave, or ONLY uses the toaster, the 15 amp
breaker should hold. The only thing to do is to replace the breaker
and see what happens.
A dedicated 20 amp split countertop receptacle should be installed in
the kitchen replacing whatever he is plugging the toaster into,
leaving the Microwave and gas oven on the existing circuit. This would
give him 2 20 amp circuits to handle toasters, coffeemakers, toaster
ovens, etc without danger of tripping breakers from inadvertent
overloads - and would get him almost code compliant. (which adding a
separate circuit for the microwave would not). The countertop
receptacles should be on GFCI protected circuits whereas the microwave
and oven are not so critical that way.

OMG, now I am more anxious than ever. Why would "adding a separate
circuit
for the microwave" not get me code compliant? This is a civilian
talking, who
doesn't know from code.

Also, can you explain "split countertop receptacle"? What is the
"split" about?
I went on-line to get a definition, but never did find one as such.
Found a number of sites, but all
too technical for me. Whatever the job turns out to be, I will have
to hire a qualified
electrician; this is not a DIY, even with help.

Also: You say "The countertop receptacles should be on GFCI protected
circuits whereas the microwave
and oven are not so critical that way." Can you explain the reason?

Also: Someone in this thread suggested refrigerator cycling on might
be causing the trips.
I just checked by disabling the breaker governing MW and gas oven, and
it does NOT govern the refrig.

Last: Would doing the "split countertop receptacle" obviate the
necessity of replacing what
might be a defective breaker controlling the MW and gas oven, leading
to repeated trips?

TIA to all for your continued help! Much appreciated.

HB

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
On Aug 4, 6:14 pm, wrote:
On Wed, 4 Aug 2010 11:08:47 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Aug 4, 8:32 am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 4, 12:37 am, Higgs Boson wrote:

On Aug 2, 4:14 am, "RBM" wrote:

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

...
On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave
and
regular oven. I could
understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like
toaster
oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's
blowing
all on its own.

Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a
glass
dish of chicken drippings.

Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what
should I
do about it.

Any info appreciated.

Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a
kitchen
circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one?

The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which
sometimes
becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker.

If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say,
"change
the breaker.

The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any
paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain
whether it is a GFI breaker?

Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to
ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this?

(Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated
to the
microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the
microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously
on the
circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the
microwave, or a
bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when
that
circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another
room?

The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. It is
a
Sears Kenmore Elite. Here are the specs:

Power Supply: 120 V AC, 60 Hz
Rated Power Consumption: 1,600 W
Microwave Output: 1,200 W
Rated Current: 14.0 A

You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. As
another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW
circuits.

How do I find out whether it is a 15 or 20 amp circuit? Is this
relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a
dedicated MW circuit installed?

******QUESTION: What should such an electrician visit cost, including
parts. This is a fairly expensive area,
and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead.
Estimates appreciated.

In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit
trips: No, just the light panel on the wall oven
and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and
pulling juice. Nothing in another room.

Your advice much appreciated.

As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic-
Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

By reading the breaker handle. If it is a 15amp circuit then it would
be helpful to know how much of the rest of the kitchen is on it. That
microwave is going to pull around 12 to 13 amps based on it's 1600
watt label. If you are on a 15amp circuit and the fridge is also on
it then your problem is probably that the fridge tries to start up
while the microwave is running. I'm also inclined to guess you had a
less powerfull microwave before. You can not use other stuff in the
kitchen while microwaving but you can't really easily control when the
fridge will try to kick in.

Upgrading the circuit to 20 amp is not very practical. Running a new
dedicated circuit for the microwave would be your simplest solution.
How much that costs depends on a lot of variables like distance from
the breaker panel and how difficult it will be to run the wire. Where
you are factors in as well, some locations are only going to allow a
licensed electrician or the homeowner to perform this work. In that
case an economical alternative solution is to get a more knowledgable
friend to help you diy it. You'd be better off getting some local
quotes as far as possible prices go than asking here.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree with the above. The MW is rated at 14 amps, 1600 watts. If
it's on a 15 amp breaker, that doesn't leave much for any other load.
Which is why with new wiring there is a dedicated circuit for the
microwave. Another possible alternative that would be a lot less
expensive is finding a MW that is lower power.

But first he needs to determine:

Is it a 15 amp breaker/circuit?
What else is on that circuit.
Can he easily avoid any additional load on the MW circuit by moving
any other loads to a different circuit, eg plug the toaster into a
different outlet.

He has answered the second half or your question several times - the
clock of the gas oven (which likely draws less than 200 Ma), and the
toaster opr toaster oven if he has it plugged in -
If he ONLY uses the Microwave, or ONLY uses the toaster, the 15 amp
breaker should hold. The only thing to do is to replace the breaker
and see what happens.
A dedicated 20 amp split countertop receptacle should be installed in
the kitchen replacing whatever he is plugging the toaster into,
leaving the Microwave and gas oven on the existing circuit. This would
give him 2 20 amp circuits to handle toasters, coffeemakers, toaster
ovens, etc without danger of tripping breakers from inadvertent
overloads - and would get him almost code compliant. (which adding a
separate circuit for the microwave would not). The countertop
receptacles should be on GFCI protected circuits whereas the microwave
and oven are not so critical that way.

OMG, now I am more anxious than ever. Why would "adding a separate
circuit
for the microwave" not get me code compliant? This is a civilian
talking, who
doesn't know from code.

Also, can you explain "split countertop receptacle"? What is the
"split" about?
I went on-line to get a definition, but never did find one as such.
Found a number of sites, but all
too technical for me. Whatever the job turns out to be, I will have
to hire a qualified
electrician; this is not a DIY, even with help.

Also: You say "The countertop receptacles should be on GFCI protected
circuits whereas the microwave
and oven are not so critical that way." Can you explain the reason?

Also: Someone in this thread suggested refrigerator cycling on might
be causing the trips.
I just checked by disabling the breaker governing MW and gas oven, and
it does NOT govern the refrig.

Last: Would doing the "split countertop receptacle" obviate the
necessity of replacing what
might be a defective breaker controlling the MW and gas oven, leading
to repeated trips?

TIA to all for your continued help! Much appreciated.

HB


A split receptacle is what they do in kitchens in Canada. It's two circuits
to one outlet. It's not typically done in the U.S. In the U.S. all kitchen
counter top outlets are supposed to be GFCI protected, regardless of what
they're used for. All you really need to do to remedy your problem, is run a
dedicated 20 amp circuit and outlet for this microwave.