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One circuit often blows
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and
regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. |
One circuit often blows
Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Maybe the breaker is loose or going bad. |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 1, 12:48*am, Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. *It covers the microwave and regular oven. *I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster *runs at same time as microwave. *But now it's blowing all on its own. *Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" *a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? *If so, why? *And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. 20 amp breaker for my living room was tripping so I swapped the wires to my bedroom. Problem stayed with the breaker indicating the breaker was bad. Jimmie |
One circuit often blows
Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Breakers go bad. Buy new breaker. Jon |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 1, 12:48*am, Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. *It covers the microwave and regular oven. *I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster *runs at same time as microwave. *But now it's blowing all on its own. *Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" *a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? *If so, why? *And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. As others have said, probably a bad breaker. Quick test: Plug the microwave into another circuit and use it as normal. |
One circuit often blows
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but larger? It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the two appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling more amps that it normally does. Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up. 120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and you get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that, I'm guessing overload. Personally, I'd not run a MW and oven together for just that reason. |
One circuit often blows
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. The best test is to clamp an ammeter on the circuit and see what it's drawing. If there is nothing on the circuit but the microwave being used, it's probably a bad microwave or breaker |
One circuit often blows
On 7/31/2010 11:48 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Fuses and breakers are blown by queer electrons, often referred to as homotrons or gaytrons. Even though homotrons are gaining wider acceptance among the atomic community, older equipment often has trouble dealing with their alternative current. 8-) TDD |
One circuit often blows
Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Try plugging it somewhere else. If the same problem then it's the device, if not it's the breaker. -- LSMFT Those who would give up Essential Liberty to purchase a little Temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety. Benjamin Franklin-- |
One circuit often blows
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Have a new dedicated 20 amp circuit installed to the microwave. Older homes have many things on the same circuits. You can resolve breaker tripping problems by placing "power hogs" on their own breakers/circuits. Then you just need to run one new wire to one thing. |
One circuit often blows
Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. |
One circuit often blows
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but larger? It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the two appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling more amps that it normally does. Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up. 120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and you get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A Whaaaaat? I seriously doubt that you are correct about that. I say the current at 110 volts would be closer to 11.5 amps. It's quite unlikely that an appliance would be sophisticated enough to continue to consume the same number of watts when the voltage is lowered. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that, I'm guessing overload. Personally, I'd not run a MW and oven together for just that reason. |
One circuit often blows
"jeff_wisnia" wrote in message ... Ed Pawlowski wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but larger? It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the two appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling more amps that it normally does. Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up. 120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and you get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A Whaaaaat? I seriously doubt that you are correct about that. I say the current at 110 volts would be closer to 11.5 amps. It's quite unlikely that an appliance would be sophisticated enough to continue to consume the same number of watts when the voltage is lowered. I didn't make the laws of physics, but I usually follow them. Amps = volts ÷ watts. If one changes, another will. Are you saying the rated watts of the heating element will change? |
One circuit often blows
On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 08:09:59 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but larger? It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the two appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling more amps that it normally does. Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up. 120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and you get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A Except the load usually behaves the other way. !500 watts at 120 volts, and 1250 watts at 110. Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that, I'm guessing overload. Personally, I'd not run a MW and oven together for just that reason. The OP wasn't running them together - they were on the same circuit, but he was ONLY running the Microwave - and the circuit breaker is by far the most likely problem. |
One circuit often blows
On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 14:26:05 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote: "jeff_wisnia" wrote in message m... Ed Pawlowski wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Like a toaster oven but larger? It may have been marginal all along. What is the rating of the two appliances? If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling more amps that it normally does. Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? In the summer with heavy loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the amps. If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up. 120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A reduce to 110 volts and you get 13.6A Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A Whaaaaat? I seriously doubt that you are correct about that. I say the current at 110 volts would be closer to 11.5 amps. It's quite unlikely that an appliance would be sophisticated enough to continue to consume the same number of watts when the voltage is lowered. I didn't make the laws of physics, but I usually follow them. Amps = volts ÷ watts. If one changes, another will. Are you saying the rated watts of the heating element will change? No, what he (and I) am saying is the resistance (effective load) will stay the same, and if the voltage drops, the power consumed will also drop. The only place that doesn't happen is with induction motors where the back EMF drops, making them draw more current when the voltage drops. |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 1, 2:26*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
I didn't make the laws of physics, but I usually follow them. *Amps = volts ÷ watts. * *If one changes, another will. *Are you saying the rated watts of the heating element will change? The rated watts of a heating element is generally an estimation based on the typical outlet voltage divided by the resistance of the element. If the voltage goes down the resistance doesn't change (much) and so the wattage and amperage go down. However...a microwave doesn't use a heating element as such. It does have a high voltage power supply which IS pretty sophisticated (controlled by solid state electronics) it may try to maintain a constant output power which would require a higher input amperage at a reduced input voltage. Or, it may only care about maintaining the correct frequency and let the power fluctuate with input voltage... I'm not sure which... |
One circuit often blows
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One circuit often blows
"Larry Fishel" wrote in message ... However...a microwave doesn't use a heating element as such. It does have a high voltage power supply which IS pretty sophisticated controlled by solid state electronics) it may try to maintain a constant output power which would require a higher input amperage at a reduced input voltage. Or, it may only care about maintaining the correct frequency and let the power fluctuate with input voltage... I'm not sure which... The high voltage supply of a microwave oven is as simple as it gets. Just a transformer, diode and capacitor. Then the one tube magnetron. If the voltage drops, the heating power of the microwave goes down. It does not even care about the frequency all that much. Just a simple oscillator circuit. The microwave ovens with the mechanical timers are about as simple as they come. The only complicated electronics in the microwave is the ones with the electronic keypads for setting the clock and time. They are not really that much more than an alarm clock. |
One circuit often blows
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One circuit often blows
On 7/31/2010 11:48 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. how does it "cover the microwave and regular oven"? And yes, you could have a weak breaker. Replacing it is the first step to solving the problem. (especially if this hasn't always happened). -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
One circuit often blows
On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 12:54:39 -0700 (PDT), Larry Fishel
wrote: On Aug 1, 2:26Â*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote: I didn't make the laws of physics, but I usually follow them. Â*Amps = volts ÷ watts. Â* Â*If one changes, another will. Â*Are you saying the rated watts of the heating element will change? The rated watts of a heating element is generally an estimation based on the typical outlet voltage divided by the resistance of the element. If the voltage goes down the resistance doesn't change (much) and so the wattage and amperage go down. However...a microwave doesn't use a heating element as such. It does have a high voltage power supply which IS pretty sophisticated (controlled by solid state electronics) it may try to maintain a constant output power which would require a higher input amperage at a reduced input voltage. Or, it may only care about maintaining the correct frequency and let the power fluctuate with input voltage... I'm not sure which... Our panasonic looses output power when the voltage sags. An INVERTER type (newer high end) system may maintain the output, as does a regulated switch-mode type computer power supply . |
One circuit often blows
On Jul 31, 11:48*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:
Lately, one circuit on my box blows. *It covers the microwave and regular oven. *I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster *runs at same time as microwave. *But now it's blowing all on its own. *Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" *a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? *If so, why? *And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Higgs the troll. Plonk. Joe |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 1, 5:09*am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... Lately, one circuit on my box blows. *It covers the microwave and regular oven. *I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster *runs at same time as microwave. *But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" *a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? *If so, why? *And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. What is the "regular oven" you speak of? *Like a toaster oven but larger? It may have been marginal all along. *What is the rating of the two appliances? *If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling more amps that it normally does. Oops - I should have made it clear that only the instrument panel on the "regular oven" went out - IOW, the time of day and light bulb inside went out. This is a regular wall oven with two compartments. It doesn't pull anything to speak of. The microwave oven is new - replaced only a few months ago. Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? *In the summer with heavy loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the amps. * *If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up. I don't have AC. (live in a near-perfect climate!) *120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A *reduce to 110 volts and you get 13.6A * Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that, I'm guessing overload. * Personally, I'd not run a MW and oven together for just that reason. OK, based on what I've read on this thread, and from my vast well of ignorance, I think it may, in fact, be a bad breaker. Note that I reported that in the past, MW only went out when used same time as other HEAT using devices (toaster oven; toaster). Tx for your analysis. |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 1, 10:11*am, jeff_wisnia
wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. *It covers the microwave and regular oven. *I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster *runs at same time as microwave. *But now it's blowing all on its own. *Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" *a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? *If so, why? *And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. |
One circuit often blows
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room? |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 2, 7:14*am, "RBM" wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. *Is there a way for a *non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? * How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm inclined to think he has a gas oven and the circuit supplies the microwave as well as 115 for the oven light/timer/whatever. At the price, replacing the breaker is the simplest test he can perform. |
One circuit often blows
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message ... On Aug 2, 7:14 am, "RBM" wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm inclined to think he has a gas oven and the circuit supplies the microwave as well as 115 for the oven light/timer/whatever. At the price, replacing the breaker is the simplest test he can perform. I'm inclined to agree. It would certainly help to know the age of the house, which could help to determine how it may have been wired. If it's a fairly new house, the circuits for kitchen counter outlets can be shared with a gas stove outlet, a refrigerator outlet, and the dining room outlets. This makes it possible that something else may be running at the same time as the microwave. If it's an old house with no particular code to the wiring, it may be a 15 amp circuit, shared with anything, anywhere in the house. |
One circuit often blows
On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 21:46:23 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote: On Aug 1, 5:09Â*am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... Lately, one circuit on my box blows. Â*It covers the microwave and regular oven. Â*I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster Â*runs at same time as microwave. Â*But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" Â*a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? Â*If so, why? Â*And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. What is the "regular oven" you speak of? Â*Like a toaster oven but larger? It may have been marginal all along. Â*What is the rating of the two appliances? Â*If the microwave motor is starting to go, it may be pulling more amps that it normally does. Oops - I should have made it clear that only the instrument panel on the "regular oven" went out - IOW, the time of day and light bulb inside went out. This is a regular wall oven with two compartments. It doesn't pull anything to speak of. The microwave oven is new - replaced only a few months ago. Also. what is the actual voltage coming in? Â*In the summer with heavy loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the amps. Â* Â*If you live in an area of high tempertures that may be going on some days as the AC load goes way up. I don't have AC. (live in a near-perfect climate!) Â*120 volts with a 1500 watt appliance = 12.5A Â*reduce to 110 volts and you get 13.6A Â* Maximum safe load on a 20A breaker is 16A Others are saying a bad breaker, but while it may be that, I'm guessing overload. Â* Personally, I'd not run a MW and oven together for just that reason. OK, based on what I've read on this thread, and from my vast well of ignorance, I think it may, in fact, be a bad breaker. Note that I reported that in the past, MW only went out when used same time as other HEAT using devices (toaster oven; toaster). Tx for your analysis. A breaker will only trip from overload so many times before it starts to malfunction (usually false trip), so if you've been kicking it by plugging in the toaster and the MW at the same time, that is likely what has happened. I'm assuming your "regular" oven is gas-fired??? |
One circuit often blows
On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 21:50:18 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote: On Aug 1, 10:11Â*am, jeff_wisnia wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. Â*It covers the microwave and regular oven. Â*I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster Â*runs at same time as microwave. Â*But now it's blowing all on its own. Â*Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" Â*a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? Â*If so, why? Â*And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. You can be almost guaranteed you do NOT have a GFI breaker installed in the panel. If you did, you would know because it has a test button (generally, anyways) |
One circuit often blows
jamesgangnc wrote:
I'm inclined to think he has a gas oven and the circuit supplies the microwave as well as 115 for the oven light/timer/whatever. At the price, replacing the breaker is the simplest test he can perform. Simpler would be to swap wires in the breaker box and see if the problem moves. |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 1, 8:09*am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
*In the summer with heavy loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the amps. Wow. Um. Just wow. Do apples fall UP in your world? James Watt and Georg Ohm are rolling over in their graves. The power company doesn't reduce the voltage. The excessive strain put on the power grid is what causes the voltage to drop... Amps don't increase when voltage drops, either. On simple resistive appliances, lower voltage causes lower Amps. |
One circuit often blows
wrote in message ... On Aug 1, 8:09 am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote: In the summer with heavy loads, the power company sometimes reduces the voltage a bit and that increases the amps. Wow. Um. Just wow. Do apples fall UP in your world? James Watt and Georg Ohm are rolling over in their graves. The power company doesn't reduce the voltage. The excessive strain put on the power grid is what causes the voltage to drop... Amps don't increase when voltage drops, either. On simple resistive appliances, lower voltage causes lower Amps. This thread is full of misinformation. The power grid has reduced the voltage during periods of high demand. At the same time the frequency is slightly reduced from exactly 60 Hz. When the demand is reduced, the frequency is slightly above 60 Hz so the over all frequency will average 60 Hz over the long period of time. At this time the voltage will be slightly higher as the voltage is determined partly by the speed of the generators. The power grid can not increase the amps. That is determined by the load of the grid. If the voltage is reduced, the current usually goes down for many devices. |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 2, 4:14*am, "RBM" wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. *Is there a way for a *non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? * How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room? The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. It is a Sears Kenmore Elite. Here are the specs: Power Supply: 120 V AC, 60 Hz Rated Power Consumption: 1,600 W Microwave Output: 1,200 W Rated Current: 14.0 A You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW circuits. How do I find out whether it is a 15 or 20 amp circuit? Is this relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a dedicated MW circuit installed? ******QUESTION: What should such an electrician visit cost, including parts. This is a fairly expensive area, and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead. Estimates appreciated. In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit trips: No, just the light panel on the wall oven and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and pulling juice. Nothing in another room. Your advice much appreciated. As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 2, 6:57*am, "RBM" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message ... On Aug 2, 7:14 am, "RBM" wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message .... On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm inclined to think he has a gas oven and the circuit supplies the microwave as well as 115 for the oven light/timer/whatever. *At the price, replacing the breaker is the simplest test he can perform. I'm inclined to agree. *It would certainly help to know the age of the house, which could help *to determine how it may have been wired. If it's a fairly new house, the circuits for kitchen counter outlets can be shared with a gas stove outlet, a refrigerator outlet, and the dining room outlets. This makes it possible that something else may be running at the same time as the microwave. If it's an old house with no particular code to the wiring, it may be a 15 amp circuit, shared with anything, anywhere in the house. In answer to the above messages, yes, it is a gas oven. The house is pretty old; 40's, I think. However, I did have electrical work done several decades ago -- can't remember exactly when or what (sob) -- and a modern breaker box installed. There are 11 breakers serving different parts of the house and garden. Things are up to code. |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 4, 12:37*am, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Aug 2, 4:14*am, "RBM" wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message .... On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. *Is there a way for a *non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? * How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room? The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. *It is a Sears Kenmore Elite. *Here are the specs: Power Supply: * *120 V AC, 60 Hz Rated Power Consumption: *1,600 W Microwave Output: *1,200 W Rated Current: 14.0 A You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. *As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW circuits. How do I find out whether it is a *15 or 20 amp circuit? *Is this relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a dedicated MW circuit installed? ******QUESTION: *What should such an electrician visit cost, including parts. This is a fairly expensive area, and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead. Estimates appreciated. In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit trips: *No, just the light panel on the wall oven and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and pulling juice. *Nothing in another room. Your advice much appreciated. As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - By reading the breaker handle. If it is a 15amp circuit then it would be helpful to know how much of the rest of the kitchen is on it. That microwave is going to pull around 12 to 13 amps based on it's 1600 watt label. If you are on a 15amp circuit and the fridge is also on it then your problem is probably that the fridge tries to start up while the microwave is running. I'm also inclined to guess you had a less powerfull microwave before. You can not use other stuff in the kitchen while microwaving but you can't really easily control when the fridge will try to kick in. Upgrading the circuit to 20 amp is not very practical. Running a new dedicated circuit for the microwave would be your simplest solution. How much that costs depends on a lot of variables like distance from the breaker panel and how difficult it will be to run the wire. Where you are factors in as well, some locations are only going to allow a licensed electrician or the homeowner to perform this work. In that case an economical alternative solution is to get a more knowledgable friend to help you diy it. You'd be better off getting some local quotes as far as possible prices go than asking here. |
One circuit often blows
Wierdly I am having the exact same issue, a microwave tripping
breaker. Its done it a few times now....... Yesterday it tripped again and wouldnt reset. So its time for a new breaker. The microwave on another circuit is working fine |
One circuit often blows
On Aug 4, 8:32*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 4, 12:37*am, Higgs Boson wrote: On Aug 2, 4:14*am, "RBM" wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message .... On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. *Is there a way for a *non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? * How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room? The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. *It is a Sears Kenmore Elite. *Here are the specs: Power Supply: * *120 V AC, 60 Hz Rated Power Consumption: *1,600 W Microwave Output: *1,200 W Rated Current: 14.0 A You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. *As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW circuits. How do I find out whether it is a *15 or 20 amp circuit? *Is this relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a dedicated MW circuit installed? ******QUESTION: *What should such an electrician visit cost, including parts. This is a fairly expensive area, and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead. Estimates appreciated. In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit trips: *No, just the light panel on the wall oven and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and pulling juice. *Nothing in another room. Your advice much appreciated. As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - By reading the breaker handle. *If it is a 15amp circuit then it would be helpful to know how much of the rest of the kitchen is on it. *That microwave is going to pull around 12 to 13 amps based on it's 1600 watt label. *If you are on a 15amp circuit and the fridge is also on it then your problem is probably that the fridge tries to start up while the microwave is running. *I'm also inclined to guess you had a less powerfull microwave before. *You can not use other stuff in the kitchen while microwaving but you can't really easily control when the fridge will try to kick in. Upgrading the circuit to 20 amp is not very practical. *Running a new dedicated circuit for the microwave would be your simplest solution. How much that costs depends on a lot of variables like distance from the breaker panel and how difficult it will be to run the wire. *Where you are factors in as well, some locations are only going to allow a licensed electrician or the homeowner to perform this work. *In that case an economical alternative solution is to get a more knowledgable friend to help you diy it. *You'd be better off getting some local quotes as far as possible prices go than asking here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Agree with the above. The MW is rated at 14 amps, 1600 watts. If it's on a 15 amp breaker, that doesn't leave much for any other load. Which is why with new wiring there is a dedicated circuit for the microwave. Another possible alternative that would be a lot less expensive is finding a MW that is lower power. But first he needs to determine: Is it a 15 amp breaker/circuit? What else is on that circuit. Can he easily avoid any additional load on the MW circuit by moving any other loads to a different circuit, eg plug the toaster into a different outlet. |
One circuit often blows
|
One circuit often blows
On Aug 4, 6:14*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 4 Aug 2010 11:08:47 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Aug 4, 8:32*am, jamesgangnc wrote: On Aug 4, 12:37*am, Higgs Boson wrote: On Aug 2, 4:14*am, "RBM" wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. *Is there a way for a *non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? * How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room? The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. *It is a Sears Kenmore Elite. *Here are the specs: Power Supply: * *120 V AC, 60 Hz Rated Power Consumption: *1,600 W Microwave Output: *1,200 W Rated Current: 14.0 A You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. *As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW circuits. How do I find out whether it is a *15 or 20 amp circuit? *Is this relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a dedicated MW circuit installed? ******QUESTION: *What should such an electrician visit cost, including parts. This is a fairly expensive area, and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead.. Estimates appreciated. In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit trips: *No, just the light panel on the wall oven and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and pulling juice. *Nothing in another room. Your advice much appreciated. As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - By reading the breaker handle. *If it is a 15amp circuit then it would be helpful to know how much of the rest of the kitchen is on it. *That microwave is going to pull around 12 to 13 amps based on it's 1600 watt label. *If you are on a 15amp circuit and the fridge is also on it then your problem is probably that the fridge tries to start up while the microwave is running. *I'm also inclined to guess you had a less powerfull microwave before. *You can not use other stuff in the kitchen while microwaving but you can't really easily control when the fridge will try to kick in. Upgrading the circuit to 20 amp is not very practical. *Running a new dedicated circuit for the microwave would be your simplest solution. How much that costs depends on a lot of variables like distance from the breaker panel and how difficult it will be to run the wire. *Where you are factors in as well, some locations are only going to allow a licensed electrician or the homeowner to perform this work. *In that case an economical alternative solution is to get a more knowledgable friend to help you diy it. *You'd be better off getting some local quotes as far as possible prices go than asking here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Agree with the above. *The MW is rated at 14 amps, 1600 watts. * If it's on a 15 amp breaker, that doesn't leave much for any other load. Which is why with new wiring there is a dedicated circuit for the microwave. * Another possible alternative that would be a lot less expensive is finding a MW that is lower power. But first he needs to determine: Is it a 15 amp breaker/circuit? What else is on that circuit. Can he easily avoid any additional load on the MW circuit by moving any other loads to a different circuit, eg plug the toaster into a different outlet. *He has answered the second half or your question several times - the clock of the gas oven (which likely draws less than 200 Ma), and the toaster opr toaster oven if he has it plugged in - If he ONLY uses the Microwave, or ONLY uses the toaster, the 15 amp breaker should hold. The only thing to do is to replace the breaker and see what happens. A dedicated 20 amp split countertop receptacle should be installed in the kitchen replacing whatever he is plugging the toaster into, leaving the Microwave and gas oven on the existing circuit. This would give him 2 20 amp circuits to handle toasters, coffeemakers, toaster ovens, etc without danger of tripping breakers from inadvertent overloads - and would get him almost code compliant. (which adding a separate circuit for the microwave would not). The countertop receptacles should be on GFCI protected circuits whereas the microwave and oven are not so critical that way. OMG, now I am more anxious than ever. Why would "adding a separate circuit for the microwave" not get me code compliant? This is a civilian talking, who doesn't know from code. Also, can you explain "split countertop receptacle"? What is the "split" about? I went on-line to get a definition, but never did find one as such. Found a number of sites, but all too technical for me. Whatever the job turns out to be, I will have to hire a qualified electrician; this is not a DIY, even with help. Also: You say "The countertop receptacles should be on GFCI protected circuits whereas the microwave and oven are not so critical that way." Can you explain the reason? Also: Someone in this thread suggested refrigerator cycling on might be causing the trips. I just checked by disabling the breaker governing MW and gas oven, and it does NOT govern the refrig. Last: Would doing the "split countertop receptacle" obviate the necessity of replacing what might be a defective breaker controlling the MW and gas oven, leading to repeated trips? TIA to all for your continued help! Much appreciated. HB |
One circuit often blows
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... On Aug 4, 6:14 pm, wrote: On Wed, 4 Aug 2010 11:08:47 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Aug 4, 8:32 am, jamesgangnc wrote: On Aug 4, 12:37 am, Higgs Boson wrote: On Aug 2, 4:14 am, "RBM" wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... On Aug 1, 10:11 am, jeff_wisnia wrote: Higgs Boson wrote: Lately, one circuit on my box blows. It covers the microwave and regular oven. I could understand it blowing when another heat-using appliance, like toaster oven or toaster runs at same time as microwave. But now it's blowing all on its own. Last time, today, only the micro was being used, to "reduce" a glass dish of chicken drippings. Can one circuit go bad all on its own? If so, why? And what should I do about it. Any info appreciated. Since nobody has mentioned this yet and it sounds like it's a kitchen circuit, is the breaker perchance a GFI one? The microwave may have marginal "hot to ground" leakage which sometimes becomes high enough to trip a GFI breaker. If it's not a GFI breaker, then I'll side with those who say, "change the breaker. The breaker box was installed many years ago and I don't have any paper work on it. Is there a way for a non-techie to ascertain whether it is a GFI breaker? Also, is it normal for a near-new MW to have the "marginal "hot to ground" leakage? How do I ascertain this? (Starts to look like an expensive electrician visit...sob...) Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. From your two replies, it sounds like this circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. Is it a 15 or 20 amp circuit? What is the wattage of the microwave? If there is truly nothing else operating simultaneously on the circuit, and it trips, it's most likely a problem with the microwave, or a bad breaker. Have you checked to see if anything else goes out when that circuit trips, such as the refrigerator or something in another room? The microwave is only a few months old, as I mentioned earlier. It is a Sears Kenmore Elite. Here are the specs: Power Supply: 120 V AC, 60 Hz Rated Power Consumption: 1,600 W Microwave Output: 1,200 W Rated Current: 14.0 A You are correct; the circuit is not dedicated to the microwave. As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedicated MW circuits. How do I find out whether it is a 15 or 20 amp circuit? Is this relevant if, as it appears, I will have to have a dedicated MW circuit installed? ******QUESTION: What should such an electrician visit cost, including parts. This is a fairly expensive area, and I am not a fairly expensive homeowner, so I need to budget ahead. Estimates appreciated. In answer to your q. if anything else goes out when the circuit trips: No, just the light panel on the wall oven and the toaster and/or toaster oven IF either happens to be on and pulling juice. Nothing in another room. Your advice much appreciated. As another poster mentioned, older houses don't always have dedic- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - By reading the breaker handle. If it is a 15amp circuit then it would be helpful to know how much of the rest of the kitchen is on it. That microwave is going to pull around 12 to 13 amps based on it's 1600 watt label. If you are on a 15amp circuit and the fridge is also on it then your problem is probably that the fridge tries to start up while the microwave is running. I'm also inclined to guess you had a less powerfull microwave before. You can not use other stuff in the kitchen while microwaving but you can't really easily control when the fridge will try to kick in. Upgrading the circuit to 20 amp is not very practical. Running a new dedicated circuit for the microwave would be your simplest solution. How much that costs depends on a lot of variables like distance from the breaker panel and how difficult it will be to run the wire. Where you are factors in as well, some locations are only going to allow a licensed electrician or the homeowner to perform this work. In that case an economical alternative solution is to get a more knowledgable friend to help you diy it. You'd be better off getting some local quotes as far as possible prices go than asking here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Agree with the above. The MW is rated at 14 amps, 1600 watts. If it's on a 15 amp breaker, that doesn't leave much for any other load. Which is why with new wiring there is a dedicated circuit for the microwave. Another possible alternative that would be a lot less expensive is finding a MW that is lower power. But first he needs to determine: Is it a 15 amp breaker/circuit? What else is on that circuit. Can he easily avoid any additional load on the MW circuit by moving any other loads to a different circuit, eg plug the toaster into a different outlet. He has answered the second half or your question several times - the clock of the gas oven (which likely draws less than 200 Ma), and the toaster opr toaster oven if he has it plugged in - If he ONLY uses the Microwave, or ONLY uses the toaster, the 15 amp breaker should hold. The only thing to do is to replace the breaker and see what happens. A dedicated 20 amp split countertop receptacle should be installed in the kitchen replacing whatever he is plugging the toaster into, leaving the Microwave and gas oven on the existing circuit. This would give him 2 20 amp circuits to handle toasters, coffeemakers, toaster ovens, etc without danger of tripping breakers from inadvertent overloads - and would get him almost code compliant. (which adding a separate circuit for the microwave would not). The countertop receptacles should be on GFCI protected circuits whereas the microwave and oven are not so critical that way. OMG, now I am more anxious than ever. Why would "adding a separate circuit for the microwave" not get me code compliant? This is a civilian talking, who doesn't know from code. Also, can you explain "split countertop receptacle"? What is the "split" about? I went on-line to get a definition, but never did find one as such. Found a number of sites, but all too technical for me. Whatever the job turns out to be, I will have to hire a qualified electrician; this is not a DIY, even with help. Also: You say "The countertop receptacles should be on GFCI protected circuits whereas the microwave and oven are not so critical that way." Can you explain the reason? Also: Someone in this thread suggested refrigerator cycling on might be causing the trips. I just checked by disabling the breaker governing MW and gas oven, and it does NOT govern the refrig. Last: Would doing the "split countertop receptacle" obviate the necessity of replacing what might be a defective breaker controlling the MW and gas oven, leading to repeated trips? TIA to all for your continued help! Much appreciated. HB A split receptacle is what they do in kitchens in Canada. It's two circuits to one outlet. It's not typically done in the U.S. In the U.S. all kitchen counter top outlets are supposed to be GFCI protected, regardless of what they're used for. All you really need to do to remedy your problem, is run a dedicated 20 amp circuit and outlet for this microwave. |
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