A/C keeps trying (you can hear it), MANY times, eg 10, sometimes
maybe even 20, before you hear the compressor finally turn on.

MAYBE it's simply because it's so hot here (10mi north of NYC)
that everyone's running their own AC's, that the voltage is down?

(Once I checked with one or several VOM's -- seemed ok to me.
But I'll try again after posting this, just to get a general
discussion going.)

How low should the voltage get to cause such a try-try-try problem?

Also, in the last "n" years, have the AC manufaacturers tried
to build around the "everyone's running their AC's and voltage
is a bit (a tad) low"?

If so, about when did that change take place?


THANKS!


David

On 7/25/2010 3:51 PM, David Combs wrote:
A/C keeps trying (you can hear it), MANY times, eg 10, sometimes
maybe even 20, before you hear the compressor finally turn on.

MAYBE it's simply because it's so hot here (10mi north of NYC)
that everyone's running their own AC's, that the voltage is down?

(Once I checked with one or several VOM's -- seemed ok to me.
But I'll try again after posting this, just to get a general
discussion going.)

How low should the voltage get to cause such a try-try-try problem?

Also, in the last "n" years, have the AC manufaacturers tried
to build around the "everyone's running their AC's and voltage
is a bit (a tad) low"?

If so, about when did that change take place?


THANKS!


David



You can install what is commonly called a "kick start" unit in
the condenser control box. Most AC condensers don't have a start
assist device from the factory although it's an option. It could
be that your AC is trying to restart before the system pressures
have time to equalize. An anti short cycle timer can solve that
problem and also keep someone from playing around with the thermostat
and slamming the compressor on and off. The time delay is usually
set for 3-5 minutes.

TDD

Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different socket,
might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also help to wire
brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically minded, you
can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and see if it's
got enough farads.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"David Combs" wrote in message
...
A/C keeps trying (you can hear it), MANY times, eg 10, sometimes
maybe even 20, before you hear the compressor finally turn on.

MAYBE it's simply because it's so hot here (10mi north of NYC)
that everyone's running their own AC's, that the voltage is down?

(Once I checked with one or several VOM's -- seemed ok to me.
But I'll try again after posting this, just to get a general
discussion going.)

How low should the voltage get to cause such a try-try-try problem?

Also, in the last "n" years, have the AC manufaacturers tried
to build around the "everyone's running their AC's and voltage
is a bit (a tad) low"?

If so, about when did that change take place?


THANKS!


David

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different socket,
might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also help to wire
brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically minded, you
can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and see if it's
got enough farads.


Enough *micro* farads.

David Combs wrote:

Also, in the last "n" years, have the AC manufaacturers tried
to build around the "everyone's running their AC's and voltage
is a bit (a tad) low"?

My one window unit had a unique start up, and I always guessed it was
for low voltage reasons. The fan would start about a second or so
before the compressor. I always thought it should have been the other
way around with the compressor starting first.

On 7/25/2010 3:51 PM, David Combs wrote:
A/C keeps trying (you can hear it), MANY times, eg 10, sometimes
maybe even 20, before you hear the compressor finally turn on.

MAYBE it's simply because it's so hot here (10mi north of NYC)
that everyone's running their own AC's, that the voltage is down?

(Once I checked with one or several VOM's -- seemed ok to me.
But I'll try again after posting this, just to get a general
discussion going.)

How low should the voltage get to cause such a try-try-try problem?

Also, in the last "n" years, have the AC manufaacturers tried
to build around the "everyone's running their AC's and voltage
is a bit (a tad) low"?

If so, about when did that change take place?


THANKS!


David



Oh crap, I just realized you are talking about a window unit!
You can still install a kick-start, start assist device in the
window unit. They are available for window units too. Another
thing that's very important for a window AC is the quality of
the electrical connections, the shape the plug and receptacle
are in. Look closely at the plug and make sure it's not toasted.
The receptacle can be a bit weak too from overheating which will
result in a voltage drop when it's under load.

TDD

On Jul 26, 12:03*am, The Daring Dufas the-daring-
wrote:
On 7/25/2010 3:51 PM, David Combs wrote:





A/C keeps trying (you can hear it), MANY times, eg 10, sometimes
maybe even 20, before you hear the compressor finally turn on.

MAYBE it's simply because it's so hot here (10mi north of NYC)
that everyone's running their own AC's, that the voltage is down?

(Once I checked with one or several VOM's -- seemed ok to me.
But I'll try again after posting this, just to get a general
discussion going.)

How low should the voltage get to cause such a try-try-try problem?

Also, in the last "n" years, have the AC manufaacturers tried
to build around the "everyone's running their AC's and voltage
is a bit (a tad) low"?

If so, about when did that change take place?

THANKS!

David

Oh crap, I just realized you are talking about a window unit!
You can still install a kick-start, start assist device in the
window unit. They are available for window units too. Another
thing that's very important for a window AC is the quality of
the electrical connections, the shape the plug and receptacle
are in. Look closely at the plug and make sure it's not toasted.
The receptacle can be a bit weak too from overheating which will
result in a voltage drop when it's under load.

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How can you tell he's talking about a window unit?

On 7/26/2010 7:03 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 26, 12:03 am, The Daring Dufasthe-daring-
wrote:
On 7/25/2010 3:51 PM, David Combs wrote:





A/C keeps trying (you can hear it), MANY times, eg 10, sometimes
maybe even 20, before you hear the compressor finally turn on.

MAYBE it's simply because it's so hot here (10mi north of NYC)
that everyone's running their own AC's, that the voltage is down?

(Once I checked with one or several VOM's -- seemed ok to me.
But I'll try again after posting this, just to get a general
discussion going.)

How low should the voltage get to cause such a try-try-try problem?

Also, in the last "n" years, have the AC manufaacturers tried
to build around the "everyone's running their AC's and voltage
is a bit (a tad) low"?

If so, about when did that change take place?

THANKS!

David

Oh crap, I just realized you are talking about a window unit!
You can still install a kick-start, start assist device in the
window unit. They are available for window units too. Another
thing that's very important for a window AC is the quality of
the electrical connections, the shape the plug and receptacle
are in. Look closely at the plug and make sure it's not toasted.
The receptacle can be a bit weak too from overheating which will
result in a voltage drop when it's under load.

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How can you tell he's talking about a window unit?

10 thousand BTU AC unit. It's in the subject line.

TDD

On Jul 26, 8:08*am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
On 7/26/2010 7:03 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Jul 26, 12:03 am, The Daring Dufasthe-daring-
*wrote:
On 7/25/2010 3:51 PM, David Combs wrote:

A/C keeps trying (you can hear it), MANY times, eg 10, sometimes
maybe even 20, before you hear the compressor finally turn on.

MAYBE it's simply because it's so hot here (10mi north of NYC)
that everyone's running their own AC's, that the voltage is down?

(Once I checked with one or several VOM's -- seemed ok to me.
But I'll try again after posting this, just to get a general
discussion going.)

How low should the voltage get to cause such a try-try-try problem?

Also, in the last "n" years, have the AC manufaacturers tried
to build around the "everyone's running their AC's and voltage
is a bit (a tad) low"?

If so, about when did that change take place?

THANKS!

David

Oh crap, I just realized you are talking about a window unit!
You can still install a kick-start, start assist device in the
window unit. They are available for window units too. Another
thing that's very important for a window AC is the quality of
the electrical connections, the shape the plug and receptacle
are in. Look closely at the plug and make sure it's not toasted.
The receptacle can be a bit weak too from overheating which will
result in a voltage drop when it's under load.

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How can you tell he's talking about a window unit?

10 thousand BTU AC unit. It's in the subject line.

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Got ya. Obvious now that you point it out. I agree, the cord/plug/
receptacle is the first place to look. People are always plugging
those big window shakers into a wall outlet that is backstabbed and
often near the end of a long 14 gauge run. Gets hot day one and goes
downhill from there.

In article ,
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different socket,
might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also help to wire
brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically minded, you
can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and see if it's
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Not that I'm going to try it,
but what is the "herm" side?

And I didn't even know that AC's *had* capacitors!

got enough farads.
How much is "enough"? How do you tell?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Thanks!

In article ,
Tony wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different socket,
might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also help to wire
brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically minded, you
can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and see if it's
got enough farads.


Enough *micro* farads.

Well, same question? What's "enough" -- and how do you tell
that there is or isn't enough (or too much) capacitance?


David

In article ,
jamesgangnc wrote:
....
....

How can you tell he's talking about a window unit?

Well, it is a window unit, a hell of a heavy one, perched
2.5 floors up.

Sorry about not making that clear.

David

In article ,
jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 26, 8:08*am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
....
....

Got ya. Obvious now that you point it out. I agree, the cord/plug/
receptacle is the first place to look. People are always plugging
those big window shakers into a wall outlet that is backstabbed and
often near the end of a long 14 gauge run. Gets hot day one and goes
downhill from there.


Years ago, I had an extra circuit put in for just that socket.


Yes, I'd better scrape off the male plug -- how to do the female
part, I don't know -- and if one is cruddy, the other probably is too?


David

David Combs wrote:
In article ,
Tony wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different socket,
might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also help to wire
brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically minded, you
can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and see if it's
got enough farads.

Enough *micro* farads.

Well, same question? What's "enough" -- and how do you tell
that there is or isn't enough (or too much) capacitance?

I test them with a Sencore capacitance/inductance meter. I have an
older model like in this link.

http://www.valuetronics.com/Details.aspx?ProdID=9307

That was probably over or close to $1000 new, I bought it used long ago.
Still works great.

The cheap hand held ones are next to useless.

Go to the store and buy a good 15 amp socket (figure about $2.50) and
replace the socket.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"David Combs" wrote in message
...

Years ago, I had an extra circuit put in for just that socket.


Yes, I'd better scrape off the male plug -- how to do the female
part, I don't know -- and if one is cruddy, the other probably is too?


David

Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different socket,
might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also help to
wire
brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically minded, you
can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and see if it's
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Not that I'm going to try it,
but what is the "herm" side?

CY: Herm is short for "hermetic compressor".

And I didn't even know that AC's *had* capacitors!

CY: high tech, you know....

got enough farads.
How much is "enough"? How do you tell?

CY: Should say on the side of the capacitor. Somtimes they get weak.
Open, or shorted.

Thanks!

CY: Please remit $48.50 for professional advice.

On Jul 29, 12:15*am, (David Combs) wrote:
In article ,

Tony wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different socket,
might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also help to wire
brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically minded, you
can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and see if it's
got enough farads.

Enough *micro* farads.

Well, same question? * What's "enough" -- and how do you tell
* *that there is or isn't enough (or too much) capacitance?

David

You're not going to have the equipment to test a capacitor. Did you
find the schematic inside it somewhere? If it just has a run
capacitor you can try replacing it. They are fairly cheap. A local
ac supply place will have one, take the old one with you.

I think you've got other issues though. How old is this unit?

On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 05:01:41 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Jul 29, 12:15Â*am, (David Combs) wrote:
In article ,

Tony wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different
socket, might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also
help to wire brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically
minded, you can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and
see if it's got enough farads.

Enough *micro* farads.

Well, same question? Â* What's "enough" -- and how do you tell
Â* Â*that there is or isn't enough (or too much) capacitance?

David

You're not going to have the equipment to test a capacitor. Did you
find the schematic inside it somewhere? If it just has a run capacitor
you can try replacing it. They are fairly cheap. A local ac supply
place will have one, take the old one with you.

I think you've got other issues though. How old is this unit?

Check the head pressure first. If it's under 100 PSI when it tries to
start re-cap the condensing unit. Start/run compressor and fan (if it has
one).

On Jul 29, 8:09*am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 05:01:41 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 29, 12:15*am, (David Combs) wrote:
In article ,

Tony wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different
socket, might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also
help to wire brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically
minded, you can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and
see if it's got enough farads.

Enough *micro* farads.

Well, same question? * What's "enough" -- and how do you tell
* *that there is or isn't enough (or too much) capacitance?

David

You're not going to have the equipment to test a capacitor. *Did you
find the schematic inside it somewhere? *If it just has a run capacitor
you can try replacing it. *They are fairly cheap. *A local ac supply
place will have one, take the old one with you.

I think you've got other issues though. *How old is this unit?

Check the head pressure first. If it's under 100 PSI when it tries to
start re-cap the condensing unit. Start/run compressor and fan (if it has
one).- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm pretty sure he does not have a set of gauges.

On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 05:14:29 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Jul 29, 8:09Â*am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 05:01:41 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 29, 12:15Â*am, (David Combs) wrote:
In article ,

Tony wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different
socket, might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also
help to wire brush the terminals on the plug. If you're
electrically minded, you can also check the herm side of the dual
capacitor, and see if it's got enough farads.

Enough *micro* farads.

Well, same question? Â* What's "enough" -- and how do you tell
Â* Â*that there is or isn't enough (or too much) capacitance?

David

You're not going to have the equipment to test a capacitor. Â*Did you
find the schematic inside it somewhere? Â*If it just has a run
capacitor you can try replacing it. Â*They are fairly cheap. Â*A local
ac supply place will have one, take the old one with you.

I think you've got other issues though. Â*How old is this unit?

Check the head pressure first. If it's under 100 PSI when it tries to
start re-cap the condensing unit. Start/run compressor and fan (if it
has one).- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm pretty sure he does not have a set of gauges.

Shouldn't be ****in around with it then. That's the first thing I did
when I rolled up on a hard-start condensing unit (gauges hooked up,
amprobe on the hot wire to the compressor.)

In article ,
jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 29, 12:15*am, (David Combs) wrote:
In article ,

Tony wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different socket,
might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also help to wire
brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically minded, you
can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and see if it's
got enough farads.

Enough *micro* farads.

Well, same question? * What's "enough" -- and how do you tell
* *that there is or isn't enough (or too much) capacitance?

David

You're not going to have the equipment to test a capacitor. Did you
find the schematic inside it somewhere? If it just has a run
capacitor you can try replacing it. They are fairly cheap. A local
ac supply place will have one, take the old one with you.

I think you've got other issues though. How old is this unit?


Old. Maybe 15 years old, maybe more.

15 isn't htat bad, if it gets cleaned every few years. Did it ever get
fixed?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"David Combs" wrote in message
...


I think you've got other issues though. How old is this unit?


Old. Maybe 15 years old, maybe more.