What is the typical thing to look for that broke when my lawnmower hit a
stationary object?

I've hit much tougher sets of rocks than the little things that all of a
sudden caused my Craftsman 18 inch push mower to wobble (I think) and run
badly and now it won't start.

No big deal. Lawn mowers are only a few hundred dollars, and a repair
person probably will only charge half the cost of a new one.

But, I wonder if I take it apart, what would I be looking for?

I've never taken a lawn mower apart but I've fixed things and have all the
mechanics tools for my car, for example, and a lawn mower can't possibly be
too complicated.

What would I be looking for. What is the typical thing that breaks when a
lawnmower hits an immovable object?

On Jul 5, 5:31*am, "James H." wrote:
What is the typical thing to look for that broke when my lawnmower hit a
stationary object?

I've hit much tougher sets of rocks than the little things that all of a
sudden caused my Craftsman 18 inch push mower to wobble (I think) and run
badly and now it won't start.

No big deal. Lawn mowers are only a few hundred dollars, and a repair
person probably will only charge half the cost of a new one.

But, I wonder if I take it apart, what would I be looking for?

I've never taken a lawn mower apart but I've fixed things and have all the
mechanics tools for my car, for example, and a lawn mower can't possibly be
too complicated.

What would I be looking for. What is the typical thing that breaks when a
lawnmower hits an immovable object?

IT sounds like the engine is unbalanced, therefor some rotating part
has broken off or the crankshaft is bent. Or possibly the engine has
come loose on it's mountings.
The obvious one would be the cutter blade. Check that it's running
without a wobble ie not bent.
Or, as it won't start something associated with the igntion system.

On Sun, 4 Jul 2010 22:15:32 -0700 (PDT), harry wrote:

IT sounds like the engine is unbalanced
Yes. Something went unbalanced but I checked (visually only) the blade
itself which seems to be all nicked up but no worse than it has been for a
loooong time.

therefor some rotating part has broken off or the crankshaft is bent.
It could be a bent crankshaft. I guess. But, I've hit far worse than what
made this happen this time as it happened all of a sudden on me.

How would I know if the crankshaft is bent?

Or possibly the engine has come loose on it's mountings.
I didn't think of that. Will check tomorrow but I didn't notice anything
loose as I flipped the lawn mower over to look at the blade.

The obvious one would be the cutter blade. Check that it's running
without a wobble ie not bent.
It doesn't look bent. It doesn't look like it's wobbling. Would that
prevent it from restarting? It ran for a few minutes "after the accident"
but roughly - and now it just won't start.

Or, as it won't start something associated with the igntion system.
Could be. I don't see how that would be associated with hitting something
but as I said, it wasn't all that much that I hit (I've run over far worse
with that mower) so maybe something just broke in the ignition. I can pull
the plug and check.

James H. wrote:
On Sun, 4 Jul 2010 22:15:32 -0700 (PDT), harry wrote:

IT sounds like the engine is unbalanced
Yes. Something went unbalanced but I checked (visually only) the blade
itself which seems to be all nicked up but no worse than it has been for a
loooong time.

therefor some rotating part has broken off or the crankshaft is bent.
It could be a bent crankshaft. I guess. But, I've hit far worse than what
made this happen this time as it happened all of a sudden on me.

How would I know if the crankshaft is bent?

Or possibly the engine has come loose on it's mountings.
I didn't think of that. Will check tomorrow but I didn't notice anything
loose as I flipped the lawn mower over to look at the blade.

The obvious one would be the cutter blade. Check that it's running
without a wobble ie not bent.
It doesn't look bent. It doesn't look like it's wobbling. Would that
prevent it from restarting? It ran for a few minutes "after the accident"
but roughly - and now it just won't start.

Or, as it won't start something associated with the igntion system.
Could be. I don't see how that would be associated with hitting something
but as I said, it wasn't all that much that I hit (I've run over far worse
with that mower) so maybe something just broke in the ignition. I can pull
the plug and check.

Does it run?
If not the aluminum key was probably sheared, they are supposed to do
that so the flywheel isn't damaged and it helps prevent bent crankshafts.
If it runs the blade was bent or a small piece of the blade broke
off, the blade came loose(unlikely) the crankshaft was bent (I haven't
seen that happen in a long time).
We really need more details to help trouble shoot it. If it's running
and the blade isn't bent it's possible the blade just needs sharpening
and balancing.

On Jul 4, 11:31*pm, "James H." wrote:
What is the typical thing to look for that broke when my lawnmower hit a
stationary object?

I've hit much tougher sets of rocks than the little things that all of a
sudden caused my Craftsman 18 inch push mower to wobble (I think) and run
badly and now it won't start.

No big deal. Lawn mowers are only a few hundred dollars, and a repair
person probably will only charge half the cost of a new one.

But, I wonder if I take it apart, what would I be looking for?

I've never taken a lawn mower apart but I've fixed things and have all the
mechanics tools for my car, for example, and a lawn mower can't possibly be
too complicated.

What would I be looking for. What is the typical thing that breaks when a
lawnmower hits an immovable object?

If you are lucky its a bent blade and sheared flywheel key, its a Diy
job with a flywheel puller, if unlucky its a bent crankshaft and its
junk, do you cut at 3.5" or more, maybe its time to remove those
rocks. Not starting is the flywheel key hopefully it did its job,
sheared and saved the motor.

James H. wrote:
What is the typical thing to look for that broke when my lawnmower hit a
stationary object?

I've hit much tougher sets of rocks than the little things that all of a
sudden caused my Craftsman 18 inch push mower to wobble (I think) and run
badly and now it won't start.

No big deal. Lawn mowers are only a few hundred dollars, and a repair
person probably will only charge half the cost of a new one.

But, I wonder if I take it apart, what would I be looking for?

I've never taken a lawn mower apart but I've fixed things and have all the
mechanics tools for my car, for example, and a lawn mower can't possibly be
too complicated.

What would I be looking for. What is the typical thing that breaks when a
lawnmower hits an immovable object?

It's not a rock crusher.

--
LSMFT

I haven't spoken to my wife in 18 months.
I don't like to interrupt her.

On Mon, 05 Jul 2010 07:59:35 -0400, LSMFT wrote:

It's not a rock crusher.

Everyone hits rocks now and then with their lawnmower, probably once a day
or twice a day or more if you have rocky soil like I do. A good mower is
designed to handle rocks and pulverize them if they're small enough, and to
not be damaged if they're larger.

Notes on the Troubleshooting and Repair of Small Gasoline Engines and
Rotary Lawn Mowers, Version 2.19b (15-May-06), Copyright © 1994-2007 by
Samuel M. Goldwasser

http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq.htm

Shear key between flywheel and shaft.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"James H." wrote in message
...
What is the typical thing to look for that broke when my lawnmower hit
a
stationary object?

I've hit much tougher sets of rocks than the little things that all of
a
sudden caused my Craftsman 18 inch push mower to wobble (I think) and
run
badly and now it won't start.

No big deal. Lawn mowers are only a few hundred dollars, and a repair
person probably will only charge half the cost of a new one.

But, I wonder if I take it apart, what would I be looking for?

I've never taken a lawn mower apart but I've fixed things and have all
the
mechanics tools for my car, for example, and a lawn mower can't
possibly be
too complicated.

What would I be looking for. What is the typical thing that breaks
when a
lawnmower hits an immovable object?

On Jul 4, 10:24*pm, "James H." wrote:
On Sun, 4 Jul 2010 22:15:32 -0700 (PDT), harry wrote:
IT sounds like the engine is unbalanced

Yes. Something went unbalanced but I checked (visually only) the blade
itself which seems to be all nicked up but no worse than it has been for a
loooong time.

therefor some rotating part has broken off or the crankshaft is bent. *

It could be a bent crankshaft. I guess. But, I've hit far worse than what
made this happen this time as it happened all of a sudden on me.

How would I know if the crankshaft is bent?


Pull the plug (safety) and rotate the blade around: Measure clearance
between tip and housing at points 180 degrees apart. If same, not
bent. If different do the same check using the opposite end of the
blade for the measuring. If it is the same, i.e., diffenent 180
degrees apart and the difference is the same as your first check,
then the odds by far favor a bent shaft, not a bent blade. For
further proof put a new blade on and use that to check.

snip remaining - answered down thread

Harry K

On Mon, 05 Jul 2010 04:53:47 -0500, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote:

Does it run?
No. It won't start.

When I hit the obstruction, it stopped due to mechanical force I guess but
then it started running roughly like it was unbalanced. It almost sounded
like a multi-cylinder engine running on one cylinder - but I'm pretty sure
it's only a one-cylinder engine to start with so that's just what it
sounded like. Then, after a couple of minutes, it died and won't restart.
I've tried for a week to start it.

If not the aluminum key was probably sheared, they are supposed to do
that so the flywheel isn't damaged and it helps prevent bent crankshafts.
I see. Looking up "Lawn mower repair flywheel key replacement" I found a
video which, to my surprise, shows you have to get to that key from the
top. (I thought everything was accessed from the bottom business end of the
motor.)

If it runs the blade was bent or a small piece of the blade broke
off, the blade came loose(unlikely) the crankshaft was bent (I haven't
seen that happen in a long time).
The blade isn't loose and it doesn't look bent. It's all dinged up but I've
had it for about 3 years and those dings started three years ago as the
soil is very rocky. About every 30 seconds I hear that hard crunch of
hitting the top of a rock. By now the rocks are mostly sheared down to the
grass level so that's why I was surprised that it stopped all of a sudden
on a pretty small rock, maybe six or eight inches in diameter that was
protroding up from the ground just above grass level in a relatively benign
rounded dome.

We really need more details to help trouble shoot it. If it's running
and the blade isn't bent it's possible the blade just needs sharpening
and balancing.

I'll give you all the details you need. It's not running but I don't
"think" it's the ignition because it was directly related to hitting this
rock one too many times.

I'm googling for lawn mower repair and I see a few decent videos but none
yet for the Craftsman (I'll look up the model number in my paperwork and
report that if it helps.)

This video shows a briggs and stratten engine being repaired with just a
screwdriver and a hammer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWcIiZtvbug

I'm looking for a Craftsman one as we speak.

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 04:16:38 -0700 (PDT), ransley wrote:

If you are lucky its a bent blade and sheared flywheel key, its a Diy
job with a flywheel puller

I found a better video of a Craftsman with Tecumseh (I don't know what
engine I have yet) which used a flywheel puller to replace the keyway.

I was surprised there are no threaded holes for the flywheel puller, but
once you self-tap them, you pull it up (the other guy used a screwdriver
instead of a flywheel puller).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuI7cLa_fk4

On 07/05/2010 09:41 AM, Brent wrote:
On Mon, 05 Jul 2010 07:59:35 -0400, LSMFT wrote:

It's not a rock crusher.

Everyone hits rocks now and then with their lawnmower, probably once a day
or twice a day or more if you have rocky soil like I do. A good mower is
designed to handle rocks and pulverize them if they're small enough, and to
not be damaged if they're larger.

Notes on the Troubleshooting and Repair of Small Gasoline Engines and
Rotary Lawn Mowers, Version 2.19b (15-May-06), Copyright © 1994-2007 by
Samuel M. Goldwasser

http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq.htm

No mower is designed to mow rocks. I think they are just too lazy to
stop and remove the rock so it will never be an obstacle again.
Ledge rocks, it's quite obvious you need to go around.



--
LSmFT

I'm trying to think but nothing happens............

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 07:19:39 -0700, "James H."
wrote:

On Mon, 05 Jul 2010 04:53:47 -0500, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote:

Does it run?
No. It won't start.

When I hit the obstruction, it stopped due to mechanical force I guess but
then it started running roughly like it was unbalanced. It almost sounded
like a multi-cylinder engine running on one cylinder - but I'm pretty sure
it's only a one-cylinder engine to start with so that's just what it
sounded like. Then, after a couple of minutes, it died and won't restart.
I've tried for a week to start it.

Yep. Sounds like you ate the shear pin. This is a soft pin that holds the
flywheel onto the crank shaft. It's designed to shear and let the flywheel go
on its merry way so it doesn't bend the crank. Since the engine timing is
taken off the flywheel, the engine won't run after. When you hit the object
you probably broke the shear pin but didn't move the flywheel far enough, at
first, to keep the engine from running. However, it ran poorly because the
timing was off. After a little time unbalanced the flywheel moved further out
of place preventing it from running at all. With any luck, a $.25 shear pin
will get you back to the fun of mowing.

If not the aluminum key was probably sheared, they are supposed to do
that so the flywheel isn't damaged and it helps prevent bent crankshafts.
I see. Looking up "Lawn mower repair flywheel key replacement" I found a
video which, to my surprise, shows you have to get to that key from the
top. (I thought everything was accessed from the bottom business end of the
motor.)

If it runs the blade was bent or a small piece of the blade broke
off, the blade came loose(unlikely) the crankshaft was bent (I haven't
seen that happen in a long time).
The blade isn't loose and it doesn't look bent. It's all dinged up but I've
had it for about 3 years and those dings started three years ago as the
soil is very rocky. About every 30 seconds I hear that hard crunch of
hitting the top of a rock. By now the rocks are mostly sheared down to the
grass level so that's why I was surprised that it stopped all of a sudden
on a pretty small rock, maybe six or eight inches in diameter that was
protroding up from the ground just above grass level in a relatively benign
rounded dome.

We really need more details to help trouble shoot it. If it's running
and the blade isn't bent it's possible the blade just needs sharpening
and balancing.

I'll give you all the details you need. It's not running but I don't
"think" it's the ignition because it was directly related to hitting this
rock one too many times.

The flywheel is part of the "ignition". The magneto is on the flywheel.

I'm googling for lawn mower repair and I see a few decent videos but none
yet for the Craftsman (I'll look up the model number in my paperwork and
report that if it helps.)

Your Craftsman likely has either a Briggs or Techumseh engine. They're pretty
much all the same.

This video shows a briggs and stratten engine being repaired with just a
screwdriver and a hammer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWcIiZtvbug

I'm looking for a Craftsman one as we speak.

On Jul 4, 11:31*pm, "James H." wrote:
What is the typical thing to look for that broke when my lawnmower hit a
stationary object?

I've hit much tougher sets of rocks than the little things that all of a
sudden caused my Craftsman 18 inch push mower to wobble (I think) and run
badly and now it won't start.

snip

When you get your replacement mower, set the blade at 4" - 5" and get
comfortable with the idea that longer grass really looks better and
healthier. And every spring rake up all the rocks that popped up over
winter before you start mowing. That way you can save a lot of $$ and
time.
If you really like a lawn that shows white roots, see if a local goat
farmer will rent you one of his close grazers on occasion.

Joe

On 07/05/2010 01:24 AM, James H. wrote:
On Sun, 4 Jul 2010 22:15:32 -0700 (PDT), harry wrote:

IT sounds like the engine is unbalanced
Yes. Something went unbalanced but I checked (visually only) the blade
itself which seems to be all nicked up but no worse than it has been for a
loooong time.

therefor some rotating part has broken off or the crankshaft is bent.
It could be a bent crankshaft. I guess. But, I've hit far worse than what
made this happen this time as it happened all of a sudden on me.

How would I know if the crankshaft is bent?

Or possibly the engine has come loose on it's mountings.
I didn't think of that. Will check tomorrow but I didn't notice anything
loose as I flipped the lawn mower over to look at the blade.

The obvious one would be the cutter blade. Check that it's running
without a wobble ie not bent.
It doesn't look bent. It doesn't look like it's wobbling. Would that
prevent it from restarting? It ran for a few minutes "after the accident"
but roughly - and now it just won't start.

Or, as it won't start something associated with the igntion system.
Could be. I don't see how that would be associated with hitting something
but as I said, it wasn't all that much that I hit (I've run over far worse
with that mower) so maybe something just broke in the ignition. I can pull
the plug and check.

if it's got a Tecumseh engine, the normal consequence of hitting
something is that the flywheel key shears (it's designed to do that, to
protect the crank) and throws off the ignition timing. BTDT... the
fact that it ran rough and now won't start sounds very familiar... went
through this several times at a house I used to live in, yard was very
lumpy and if you didn't mow often enough you hit a couple stealth roots.
I could tell when I'd sheared the key by the mower starting to run
rough from the retarded ignition timing, but it'd run for a while until
I hit another root/rock/whatever and then I'd be done for.

the unbalance is likely due to a bent blade; if it's not, you've likely
bent the crank which means your mower is junk.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Mon, 05 Jul 2010 11:28:35 -0500, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

When you hit the object you probably broke the shear pin but didn't
move the flywheel far enough, at first, to keep the engine from running.
However, it ran poorly because the timing was off. After a little time
unbalanced the flywheel moved further out of place preventing it from
running at all.

Now that makes sense! I remember now, that there was a lot of oil and smoke
too. I'll bet you're 100% right so I'll take it apart from the top and look
for that flywheel pin and report back to the team!

On Jul 5, 12:36*pm, "James H." wrote:
On Mon, 05 Jul 2010 11:28:35 -0500, wrote:
When you hit the object you probably broke the shear pin but didn't
move the flywheel far enough, at first, to keep the engine from running.. *
However, it ran poorly because the timing was off. *After a little time
unbalanced the flywheel moved further out of place preventing it from
running at all. *

Now that makes sense! I remember now, that there was a lot of oil and smoke
too. I'll bet you're 100% right so I'll take it apart from the top and look
for that flywheel pin and report back to the team!

The 'not starting' is almost assuredly a sheared pin. I worked for
part of year in my old man's fix-it shop. Overhauled one Briggs on a
tiller. Fired it up, ran good, next morning - no start. After a
couple hours fooling with it, I pulled the flywheel to find the key
only half shorn but it was enough to keep it from starting. It
probably was shorn when I shut it off the previous evening.

Yes, it is possible for it to have started with a partially shorn key
and then completed the shearing later.

Harry K

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 07:28:10 -0700, James H. wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 04:16:38 -0700 (PDT), ransley wrote:

If you are lucky its a bent blade and sheared flywheel key,
its a Diy job with a flywheel puller

It's a Briggs & Stratten 6.5 HP 21" cut Craftsman part number 917.388853
push mower. I found the manual he
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0505023.pdf
http://www.hammerwall.com/Download_Manual/14875/
http://tinyurl.com/32mzm2n

Interestingly, the owners manual says Sears doesn't recommend sharpening
the blade; I wonder why?

I checked the balance of the blade using the technique in the manual and it
seems to be balanced just fine (even though it's nicked up a bit).

This is the published procedure to check balance:

"NOTE: We do not recommend sharpening the blade - but if you do, be sure
the blade is balanced. To check blade balance, drive a nail into a beam or
wall. Leave about one inch of the straight nail exposed. Place center hole
of blade over the head of the nail. If blade is balanced, it should remain
in a horizontal position. If either end of the blade moves downward,
sharpen the heavy end until the blade is balanced."

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 21:52:55 -0700 (PDT), Harry K wrote:

The 'not starting' is almost assuredly a sheared pin.

Hi Harry,
I suspect you are right.
I found the exploded diagrams for the Briggs & Stratton 6.5HP 21" push
mower (Sears catalogue number 917.388853) on http://searspartsdirect.com

http://tinyurl.com/32mzm2n

But the weird thing is I can't find the "flywheel key" anywhere on the
exploded parts diagram.

There's just one big part (#59) called "Engine" which must contain the
sheared flywheel key; but I think I'll have to call Sears in the morning to
find the missing flywheel key.

If anyone looks at that http://searspartsdirect exploded diagram, do YOU
see the flywheel key?

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 09:47:37 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Shear key between flywheel and shaft.

It's a Briggs & Stratten 6.5 HP 21" cut Craftsman part number 917.388853
push mower. I found the manual he
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0505023.pdf
http://www.hammerwall.com/Download_Manual/14875/
http://tinyurl.com/32mzm2n

From the owners manual, the engine of the Craftsman 917.388853 6.5HP 21"
push mower is a Briggs & Stratton, Model-Type-Trim of 123KO2-0444-E1.
Model = 123KO2
Type = 0444
Trim = E1

Looking at the web site for that Briggs & Stratton Model Number
123KO2-0444-E1 engine, I can't find the owners manual for the engine
itself.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...123KO2-0444-E1

I think I'll call Briggs & Stratton in the morning to find out WHY that
Model/Type/Trim combination isn't shown on their web site.

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 22:43:08 -0700, James H. wrote:
It's a Briggs & Stratten 6.5 HP 21" cut Craftsman part number 917.388853
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0505023.pdf
http://www.hammerwall.com/Download_Manual/14875/
http://tinyurl.com/32mzm2n

From the owners manual, the engine of the Craftsman 917.388853 6.5HP 21"
push mower is a Briggs & Stratton, Model-Type-Trim of 123KO2-0444-E1.

I couldn't even find that model-type-trim on the Briggs and Stratton web
site ( http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...anual_and_more ).

And, there was no exploded engine diagram on the Sears web site:
http://tinyurl.com/32mzm2n

Luckily, the downloaded manual contained, on page 36, an exploded diagram
of the engine.
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0505023.pdf

Apparently the part I need from Sears or Briggs & Stratton is "#24" in the
center of the exploded engine diagram on page 36, part number 222698, name
= "key-flywheel".

I'll call Sears (800-488-1222) or Briggs & Stratton tomorrow during
business hours to see how to obtain this illusive flywheel key.

On Mon, 05 Jul 2010 11:12:08 -0400, LSMFT wrote:

No mower is designed to mow rocks.

The soil up here is so rocky that you can't help but hit little stones,
hundreds of them, every day. It just is. There's no way to get rid of them
because if you remove them, more take their place.

Based on all your help, I'm sure I sheared the $0.32 "key-flywheel" (Sears
P/N 222698) which I'll get from Sears or Briggs & Stratton tomorrow.
http://www.mfgsupply.com/SmEngEngineBSFly.html

Which is $3.32 (ten times that) at searspartsdirect:
http://tinyurl.com/2ulw53v

In the meantime, I'm looking up DIYs and found this good one:
http://www.ehow.com/how_4828024_repl...-stratton.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-QINnsFYw0

James H. wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 21:52:55 -0700 (PDT), Harry K wrote:

The 'not starting' is almost assuredly a sheared pin.

Hi Harry,
I suspect you are right.
I found the exploded diagrams for the Briggs & Stratton 6.5HP 21" push
mower (Sears catalogue number 917.388853) on http://searspartsdirect.com

http://tinyurl.com/32mzm2n

But the weird thing is I can't find the "flywheel key" anywhere on the
exploded parts diagram.

There's just one big part (#59) called "Engine" which must contain the
sheared flywheel key; but I think I'll have to call Sears in the morning to
find the missing flywheel key.

If anyone looks at that http://searspartsdirect exploded diagram, do YOU
see the flywheel key?

You now must go to a Briggs online catalog. Sears doesn't list all the
engine parts because they don't make them. First search the engine for
the Briggs model and all other numbers with it. They often changed
parts during the run so those other numbers will get you to the proper
info. I think the numbers are normally stamped on the cowling part that
surrounds the flywheel.

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 23:04:42 -0700, "James H."
wrote:


Apparently the part I need from Sears or Briggs & Stratton is "#24" in the
center of the exploded engine diagram on page 36, part number 222698, name
= "key-flywheel".

You might want a couple of the flywheel shear keys. I've put a new
one in once, so if you're not careful and it slips a bit replacing the
flywheel the key will shear off again. Some keys will break completely
and others may just fracture slightly. A fractured one causes the
timing to be off, run bad and then break completely. The engine won't
run after is breaks.

I use a dab of bearing grease to hold the key (correct size key) in
place when putting the flywheel back on. It helps prevent it from
slipping. They can be tricky.

Looking at the crank in your link there is another key at the bottom
for the blade adapter (page 12* ). Hitting rock and roots, I'd expect
the blade adpter key to shear first, causing the blade to spin freely.
Unless that key is harder than the flywheel key -- I don't know.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0505023.pdf

On Tue, 06 Jul 2010 14:08:27 -0400, Tony wrote:
You now must go to a Briggs online catalog. Sears doesn't list all the
engine parts because they don't make them. First search the engine for
the Briggs model and all other numbers with it. They often changed
parts during the run so those other numbers will get you to the proper
info. I think the numbers are normally stamped on the cowling part that
surrounds the flywheel.

Yes, all the B+S ones I've seen, it's stamped on the cowling, just above
the spark plug.

On Tue, 6 Jul 2010 18:41:22 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jul 2010 14:08:27 -0400, Tony wrote:
You now must go to a Briggs online catalog.

it's stamped on the cowling, just above the spark plug.

Thanks.

I found the flywheel key parts diagram, luckily, in the downloaded manual
which contained, on page 36, an exploded diagram of the engine.
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0505023.pdf

Apparently the part I need from Sears or Briggs & Stratton is "#24" in the
center of the exploded engine diagram on page 36, part number 222698, name
= "key-flywheel".

Looking it up, it apparently costs 32 cents.

On Tue, 06 Jul 2010 11:14:37 -0700, Oren wrote:

Looking at the crank in your link there is another key at the bottom
for the blade adapter (page 12* ). Hitting rock and roots, I'd expect
the blade adpter key to shear first, causing the blade to spin freely.
Unless that key is harder than the flywheel key -- I don't know.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0505023.pdf

Interesting. Thanks for pointing that out. I'm gonna have a look at that
mower again to see if that second key broke also.

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 11:19:20 -0700 (PDT), Joe wrote:
When you get your replacement mower

I may have to buy a new mower.

You guys were 100% right (that the flywheel key was broken); but the vidoes
on how to repair a briggs and stratton were ALL WRONG!

There is NO WAY you're gonna leverage the flywheel up. I tried, and I ended
up breaking a gas:air tube from the air filter. I'm not sure now if it's
worth repairing as multiple parts of plastic and aluminum are now broken.

For the record, the ONLY way to get that flywheel off is with a harmonic
balancer puller (an 8-inch gear puller failed to take it off). I still
don't have it off because I didn't have the right sized bolts for my
harmonic balancer puller ... but anyone who says you can leverage the
flywheel off with a screwdriver is mistaken.

I may need to buy a new lawnmower.

On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 18:24:09 -0700, James H. wrote:
There is NO WAY you're gonna leverage the flywheel up. I tried, and I ended
up breaking a gas:air tube from the air filter. I'm not sure now if it's
worth repairing as multiple parts of plastic and aluminum are now broken.

For the record, the ONLY way to get that flywheel off is with a harmonic
balancer puller (an 8-inch gear puller failed to take it off). I still
don't have it off because I didn't have the right sized bolts for my
harmonic balancer puller ...

I just found out the reasons my bolts didn't fit was the fact that you need
special self-tapping bolts!

According to this web site, I need self-tapping bolts. But who has these
and what size?


___ ___
|___| |___|-------- Self tapping bolts or pretap holes.
| | | |
_|-|_ _|-|_
| |-| | | |-| |------- Tighten nuts to release flywheel.
___|_|-|_|__________|_|-|_|___
| |-| |-| |--- Plate or block - 1/4" or thicker steel
|_____|-|______________|-|_____|
|-| .-.----.-. |-|
|-| | :----: |-|-|---------- Flywheel nut - loosen slightly.
|-| |_:----:_| |-|
______|-|___ :----: ___|-|______
//////:-:///|:----:|///:-://////
//////:-:///|:----:|///:-:////// -- Flywheel comes with predrilled
holes.
//////'-'///|:----:|///'-'////// (taper not shown - ASCII
limitations!)
//////| |///|:----:|///| |//////

On Jul 5, 12:31*am, "James H." wrote:
What is the typical thing to look for that broke when my lawnmower hit a
stationary object?

I've hit much tougher sets of rocks than the little things that all of a
sudden caused my Craftsman 18 inch push mower to wobble (I think) and run
badly and now it won't start.

No big deal. Lawn mowers are only a few hundred dollars, and a repair
person probably will only charge half the cost of a new one.

But, I wonder if I take it apart, what would I be looking for?

I've never taken a lawn mower apart but I've fixed things and have all the
mechanics tools for my car, for example, and a lawn mower can't possibly be
too complicated.

What would I be looking for. What is the typical thing that breaks when a
lawnmower hits an immovable object?

Sounds like the shear key on the flywheel may have sheared.. This will
put the timing off. Also check for damed blade . After this we are
talking crankshaft damage... I this is the case it is not worth
fixing.


Jimmie

On Jul 8, 8:24*pm, "James H." wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 11:19:20 -0700 (PDT), Joe wrote:
When you get your replacement mower

I may have to buy a new mower.

You guys were 100% right (that the flywheel key was broken); but the vidoes
on how to repair a briggs and stratton were ALL WRONG!

There is NO WAY you're gonna leverage the flywheel up. I tried, and I ended
up breaking a gas:air tube from the air filter. I'm not sure now if it's
worth repairing as multiple parts of plastic and aluminum are now broken.

For the record, the ONLY way to get that flywheel off is with a harmonic
balancer puller (an 8-inch gear puller failed to take it off). I still
don't have it off because I didn't have the right sized bolts for my
harmonic balancer puller ... but anyone who says you can leverage the
flywheel off with a screwdriver is mistaken.

I may need to buy a new lawnmower.

I've never had any trouble removing one, trick is; you don't pry it
off, you just put tension on it so when you smack the crankshaft with
a hammer, the crankshaft slips through it releasing the taper. It is
one of those things that once you do it you see how easy it was, but
before that seems impossible.

On Jul 8, 6:24*pm, "James H." wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 11:19:20 -0700 (PDT), Joe wrote:
When you get your replacement mower

I may have to buy a new mower.

You guys were 100% right (that the flywheel key was broken); but the vidoes
on how to repair a briggs and stratton were ALL WRONG!

There is NO WAY you're gonna leverage the flywheel up. I tried, and I ended
up breaking a gas:air tube from the air filter. I'm not sure now if it's
worth repairing as multiple parts of plastic and aluminum are now broken.

For the record, the ONLY way to get that flywheel off is with a harmonic
balancer puller (an 8-inch gear puller failed to take it off). I still
don't have it off because I didn't have the right sized bolts for my
harmonic balancer puller ... but anyone who says you can leverage the
flywheel off with a screwdriver is mistaken.

I may need to buy a new lawnmower.

What Eric said but to explain it a bit mo Lever pressure on the
screwdriver and smack the NUT on the crankshaft. That nut needs to be
loose with no crankshaft threads showing above it.

I am a member in the church of "a BFH will fix most anything"

Give it a try on your junker.

Harry K

Eric in North TX wrote:
-snip-

I've never had any trouble removing one, trick is; you don't pry it
off, you just put tension on it so when you smack the crankshaft with
a hammer, the crankshaft slips through it releasing the taper. It is
one of those things that once you do it you see how easy it was, but
before that seems impossible.

I've done dozens of them in my life. And I rarely find it easy. Last
one I did I fought for two days and finally my neighbor came over &
gave it a whack and it popped off. [he does it for a living & doesn't
even pause to think about it]

It's friggin' magic, I tell ya.

Jim

On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 18:24:09 -0700, "James H."
wrote:

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 11:19:20 -0700 (PDT), Joe wrote:
When you get your replacement mower

I may have to buy a new mower.

You guys were 100% right (that the flywheel key was broken); but the vidoes
on how to repair a briggs and stratton were ALL WRONG!

There is NO WAY you're gonna leverage the flywheel up. I tried, and I ended
up breaking a gas:air tube from the air filter. I'm not sure now if it's
worth repairing as multiple parts of plastic and aluminum are now broken.


Did you pry up or down with the screwdriver?

For the record, the ONLY way to get that flywheel off is with a harmonic
balancer puller (an 8-inch gear puller failed to take it off). I still
don't have it off because I didn't have the right sized bolts for my
harmonic balancer puller ... but anyone who says you can leverage the
flywheel off with a screwdriver is mistaken.


No. What Eric and Harry K said is correct. Growing up, tinkering with
mowers I never used (or knew) a puller..

Loosen the nut up to the top of the crank -- do not remove it and make
sure the threads are below the nut. Never hit the crank with a hammer,
with the nut completely removed. That will cause thread damage and you
cannot thread the nut back on.

Position the screwdriver under the flywheel 180° opposite the flywheel
key way, pry up with the screwdriver and smack the nut with the
hammer. It may pop the first time or need a couple more smacks. Even
adding a penetrating oil around the key way/crank will help.

I may need to buy a new lawnmower.

I've been pulling flywheels for years. With a big screw driver, knock
off tool, and big hammer.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


For the record, the ONLY way to get that flywheel off is with a
harmonic
balancer puller (an 8-inch gear puller failed to take it off). I
still
don't have it off because I didn't have the right sized bolts for my
harmonic balancer puller ...

Big screw driver to pull up. Knock off tool to protect the shaft. And
then apply BFH. Works, fine.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...

I've done dozens of them in my life. And I rarely find it easy. Last
one I did I fought for two days and finally my neighbor came over &
gave it a whack and it popped off. [he does it for a living & doesn't
even pause to think about it]

It's friggin' magic, I tell ya.

Jim

On Fri, 9 Jul 2010 20:39:40 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Big screw driver to pull up. Knock off tool to protect the shaft. And
then apply BFH. Works, fine.

I don't understand the "knock off tool". I bought one. But for two reasons,
I will return it.

The first reason isn't the tool's fault (it was the wrong size); but even
so, how does banging on the crankshaft (and lifting underneath with a pry
bar) magically free up the flywheel?

Of course, lifting up on the flywheel with a prybar, is applying force to
free it up; but how is whacking the crankshaft applying ANY force
whatsoever in the direction we want the flywheel to go (which is up)?

On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 19:46:57 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE wrote:
Sounds like the shear key on the flywheel may have sheared..
This will put the timing off.

That's exactly what happened. The flywheel "pin" was shaped like a Z (side
view) instead of a rectangle (I bought six new Briggs and Stratton flywheel
keys from Ace hardware and none look like a Z from the side.)

The hard part wasn't getting the flywheel off; it was figuring HOW to get
the flywheel off. Banging on the crankshaft and prying up on the flywheel
only served to break the plastic intake manifold in half, bending one of
its bolts and breaking the other one in half.

Success only came to me after I totally gave up on this crazy
bang-on-the-crankshaft-and-pry-the-flywheel method. When I finally realized
there were two untapped holes for a harmonic balancer puller, I simply
tapped them with a 1/4 x 20 tap, and voila! The flywheel pulled off with
ease using the flywheel puller.

Now I have to order a new plastic intake manifold, and pick up a set of
screw extractors to extract the broken intake-manifold bolt.

In hind sight, if you have a Briggs and Stratton engine (specifically the
Briggs and Stratton 123K02-0444-E1 engine), DO NOT pry up on the flywheel
and bang down on the crankshaft (what's that gonna do anyway, beside break
stuff). There's NOWHERE to pry except soft aluminum and plastic anyway.

Just use a harmonic balancer puller (after tapping the holes in the
flywheel left for this purpose). I wish I knew that when I started this
thread!

I do THANK EVERYONE for all your help; it was my first lawnmower repair in
my life! When the parts come in for the broken intake manifold, I hope it
will work again!

On Fri, 9 Jul 2010 22:09:17 -0700, James H. wrote:
Now I have to order a new plastic intake manifold, and pick up a set of
screw extractors to extract the broken intake-manifold bolt.

I ordered a new intake manifold, busted when I followed the errant advice
to bang on the crankshaft and pry up on the flywheel.

Don't bang and pry!

Nothing is gonna happen except aluminum and plastic stuff under the engine
will break. The plastic part that broke is #50 (intake manifold, Sears PN
497465) and #54 (intake manifold screw) on page 36 of this 40-page pdf.
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0505023.pdf
http://www.hammerwall.com/Download_Manual/14875/
http://tinyurl.com/32mzm2n

If you ever have to remove a flywheel like the one in my Craftsman 21" push
mower 917.388853 with a Briggs and Stratton 6.5HP 123K02-0444-E1 engine,
simply tap the two holes in the flywheel with a 1/4 x 20 tap, and use a
harmonic balancer puller and voila, the flywheel will come off.

Resist the tempatation to pry (you'll only break stuff) and bang on the
crankshaft (what's that gonna do anyway; the crankshaft isn't going to move
down?????).

When I pick up a screw extractor set, I'll remove the broken bolt; and when
the new intake manifold arrives, we'll put it all back together (with the
new crankshaft pin) and cross our fingers.

Thanks for all your advice; you guys are wonderful!

The knock off tool allows you to move the crank shaft down. Which is
the same as moving the flywheel up. Mostly just shears the friction
fit from the flywheel to the crankshaft. Try it... worked for many men
on many occasions.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"James H." wrote in message
...
On Fri, 9 Jul 2010 20:39:40 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Big screw driver to pull up. Knock off tool to protect the shaft.
And
then apply BFH. Works, fine.

I don't understand the "knock off tool". I bought one. But for two
reasons,
I will return it.

The first reason isn't the tool's fault (it was the wrong size); but
even
so, how does banging on the crankshaft (and lifting underneath with a
pry
bar) magically free up the flywheel?

Of course, lifting up on the flywheel with a prybar, is applying force
to
free it up; but how is whacking the crankshaft applying ANY force
whatsoever in the direction we want the flywheel to go (which is up)?