I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?

thanks,
FB

FBWNDR wrote:
....
Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?
....

Not specifically, but...

Couple question your post, though.

Don't they have a Btu rating on the boiler? All units I've any
experience w/ do.

What did you use for the pressure/density for the cfm calculation you
did? Where did you get that performance figure and does it match theirs?

--

On 1/24/2010 12:46, FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?

thanks,
FB

Friend put a heatmor in last year. That one is probably the best of
those style units available. Most of them are low quality very poorly
designed units (no firebrick etc) which means you get lots of stinky smoke.

I did a heat loss calc for his house but as you stated they simply tout
ridiculous meaningless specs such as "heats 3,000 square foot house". I
don't remember which version he has but I can ask.

There is even better technology available which uses wood gasification
for even higher efficiency and more complete combustion (lots less smoke
too).

dpb wrote:
....

What did you use for the pressure/density for the cfm calculation you
did? Where did you get that performance figure and does it match theirs?

That is, specifically, if you used STP I'd expect actual to be higher by
fairly significant factor depending on specifics of draft design...

--

On Jan 24, 11:52*am, dpb wrote:
dpb wrote:

...

What did you use for the pressure/density for the cfm calculation you
did? *Where did you get that performance figure and does it match theirs?

That is, specifically, if you used STP I'd expect actual to be higher by
fairly significant factor depending on specifics of draft design...

--

I did use standard pressure and temperature for the CFM calculation. I
would assume that the fan's rating is also given as standard pressure
and temperature. And I also assumed perfect combustion, and so I
determined how much wood (at 45% moisture) could be theoretically
combusted per hour with an air input of 75 cfm. There may be a BTU
rating on the heater, but I have not seen one. I am still trying to
obtain a user's manual, which is not available on their website. At a
very rough guess, I would assume a 3000 square foot house in the
midwest would require at least 100,000 BTU/hr furnace, probably a
little larger.

On Jan 24, 11:46*am, FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. *If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. *The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. *The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. *The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). *It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. *I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. *And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. *A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? *Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?

thanks,
FB

If boiler is outside full of water , you must put antifreeze in the
water, antifreeze doesnt transfer heat as well as water, is that
included in their btu output calculation. Do you have to feed it every
hour that would become a hard full time job

On Jan 24, 1:56 pm, ransley wrote:
On Jan 24, 11:46 am, FBWNDR wrote:



I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?

thanks,
FB

If boiler is outside full of water , you must put antifreeze in the
water, antifreeze doesnt transfer heat as well as water, is that
included in their btu output calculation. Do you have to feed it every
hour that would become a hard full time job

The anti-freeze heat transfer difference is pretty small, as least
compared to some other assumptions, so I didn't include it. But what
I have heard is that most people don't put anti-freeze into the tank.
I don't understand this at all. The system holds 85 gallons, which
would require 42.5 gallons of anti-freeze. This is not a small cost,
but it is a very large risk to run the system without antifreeze. The
furnace area is large enough that it can hold 12 hours worth of wood
at a time.

On Jan 24, 4:56*pm, FBWNDR wrote:
On Jan 24, 1:56 pm, ransley wrote:





On Jan 24, 11:46 am, FBWNDR wrote:

I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. *If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. *The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. *The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house..

Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. *The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). *It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. *I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. *And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. *A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? *Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?

thanks,
FB

If boiler is outside full of water , you must put antifreeze in the
water, antifreeze doesnt transfer heat as well as water, is that
included in their btu output calculation. Do you have to feed it every
hour that would become a hard full time job

The anti-freeze heat transfer difference is pretty small, as least
compared to some other assumptions, so I didn't include it. *But what
I have heard is that most people don't put anti-freeze into the tank.
I don't understand this at all. *The system holds 85 gallons, which
would require 42.5 gallons of anti-freeze. *This is not a small cost,
but it is a very large risk to run the system without antifreeze. *The
furnace area is large enough that it can hold 12 hours worth of wood
at a time.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If pipe is outside it will freeze fast if its cold enough out, it
could be buried and insulated. 50% mix is -37f you dont need -37
unless it gets to -37. The reduction in efficency is actualy large ,
maybe 5% im guessing. Antifreeze conducts heat poorly compared to
water, I just got a used car that some idiot had 100% antifreeze in
it, I only checked its % because I got almost no heat inside, im down
to 40% antifreeze now and air temp out of the cars vents is maybe 40
degrees hotter now, so antifreeze looses you efficency but I would
think even 5-10% would help get you well below 32F, You cant expect it
to be fired all the time , what if you are sick or want to take a
vacation, you dont want to loose a expensive boiler from freezing, it
has to be winterized to your local temp

On 1/24/2010 15:56, ransley wrote:
On Jan 24, 11:46 am, wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?

thanks,
FB

If boiler is outside full of water , you must put antifreeze in the
water, antifreeze doesnt transfer heat as well as water, is that
included in their btu output calculation. Do you have to feed it every
hour that would become a hard full time job

Those boilers were pretty popular in my general area for a while.
Unfortunately they got a bad reputation because folks were buying them
based on price only. The "big box quality" versions have essentially a
huge steel firebox with a coil wrapped around the outside and a small
motorized damper. The idea being you would stuff it full of wood to last
all day and when your stat called for heat the damper would open. Since
the wood was in contact with the steel it gets cold. So the unit belches
dense acrid smoke for a really long time until it heats up.

I border on a less densely populated area and the nearest ones I have
seen are a mile from here. They make such heavy smoke that on a calm
morning it is like driving through fog. Most municipalities here have
now banned them. The heatmor that was mentioned is probably the best of
that type system. Their is a firebrick liner and it has an induced draft
so there is less smoke. Unfortunately the "big box quality" units killed
off all installs.

Installers typically haybale the install. They don't use water-water
heat exchangers and just tie in directly and don't use antifreeze.

FBWNDR wrote:

At a
very rough guess, I would assume a 3000 square foot house in the
midwest would require at least 100,000 BTU/hr furnace, probably a
little larger.

"A 3000 square foot house" has no meaning unless you know what the
outside temperature is. It may be a 'true', but useless number.

Your calculation is a real interesting approach.

--
bud--

ransley wrote:
On Jan 24, 4:56 pm, FBWNDR wrote:
On Jan 24, 1:56 pm, ransley wrote:





On Jan 24, 11:46 am, FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house.
Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.
So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?
thanks,
FB
If boiler is outside full of water , you must put antifreeze in the
water, antifreeze doesnt transfer heat as well as water, is that
included in their btu output calculation. Do you have to feed it every
hour that would become a hard full time job
The anti-freeze heat transfer difference is pretty small, as least
compared to some other assumptions, so I didn't include it. But what
I have heard is that most people don't put anti-freeze into the tank.
I don't understand this at all. The system holds 85 gallons, which
would require 42.5 gallons of anti-freeze. This is not a small cost,
but it is a very large risk to run the system without antifreeze. The
furnace area is large enough that it can hold 12 hours worth of wood
at a time.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If pipe is outside it will freeze fast if its cold enough out, it
could be buried and insulated. 50% mix is -37f you dont need -37
unless it gets to -37. The reduction in efficency is actualy large ,
maybe 5% im guessing. Antifreeze conducts heat poorly compared to
water, I just got a used car that some idiot had 100% antifreeze in
it, I only checked its % because I got almost no heat inside, im down
to 40% antifreeze now and air temp out of the cars vents is maybe 40
degrees hotter now, so antifreeze looses you efficency but I would
think even 5-10% would help get you well below 32F, You cant expect it
to be fired all the time , what if you are sick or want to take a
vacation, you dont want to loose a expensive boiler from freezing, it
has to be winterized to your local temp

The antifreeze isn't loosing much total efficiency if any at all. If it
doesn't transfer the heat it simply cycles around through the boiler and
gets hotter again, hotter than it would get if cold antifreeze was
circulating. It's not as though the heat that wasn't transfered goes
off into space and is lost. The heat is still there being recirculated
for the next time around.

George wrote:
On 1/24/2010 15:56, ransley wrote:
On Jan 24, 11:46 am, wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets
pumped into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating
duct of the house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air
around the house. Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now
looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the
boiler can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about
combustion, and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more
than 10 lbs of wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then
the available BTU is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is
very small for a 3000 square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?

thanks,
FB

If boiler is outside full of water , you must put antifreeze in the
water, antifreeze doesnt transfer heat as well as water, is that
included in their btu output calculation. Do you have to feed it
every hour that would become a hard full time job

Those boilers were pretty popular in my general area for a while.
Unfortunately they got a bad reputation because folks were buying them
based on price only. The "big box quality" versions have essentially a
huge steel firebox with a coil wrapped around the outside and a small
motorized damper. The idea being you would stuff it full of wood to
last all day and when your stat called for heat the damper would
open. Since the wood was in contact with the steel it gets cold. So
the unit belches dense acrid smoke for a really long time until it
heats up.
I border on a less densely populated area and the nearest ones I have
seen are a mile from here. They make such heavy smoke that on a calm
morning it is like driving through fog. Most municipalities here have
now banned them. The heatmor that was mentioned is probably the best
of that type system. Their is a firebrick liner and it has an induced
draft so there is less smoke. Unfortunately the "big box quality"
units killed off all installs.

Installers typically haybale the install. They don't use water-water
heat exchangers and just tie in directly and don't use antifreeze.

This whole class of heaters is illegal in Washington State, I assume due to the
pollution.

FBWNDR wrote:
On Jan 24, 11:52 am, dpb wrote:
dpb wrote:

...

What did you use for the pressure/density for the cfm calculation you
did? Where did you get that performance figure and does it match theirs?
That is, specifically, if you used STP I'd expect actual to be higher by
fairly significant factor depending on specifics of draft design...
....

I did use standard pressure and temperature for the CFM calculation. I
would assume that the fan's rating is also given as standard pressure
and temperature. And I also assumed perfect combustion, and so I
determined how much wood (at 45% moisture) could be theoretically
combusted per hour with an air input of 75 cfm. ...

What would you get if you consider combustion air at intake of (say) 20F
or so? That density difference, while I didn't look it up, would be
moderately sizable I'd think.

Not sure, seems like 45% might be a little pessimistic on moisture, too,
maybe? I don't have data for seasoned firewood, just a thought.
Being no trees around here, the fad is the corn-fed boilers around here.
If one had the grain anyway w/ the automated feeders that seems to
make some sense to me altho larger producers are going to the waste oil
and/or the on-farm small (relatively) capacity biodiesel conversion if
they also have soybeans as a normal rotation. I've heard of a couple
that estimate they're replacing all their off-road diesel requirements
from about 8-12% of their production acreage depending on the annual yield.

--

"FBWNDR" wrote in message
...
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox.

Here in CT they are trying to outlaw them. Many com plaints about
pollution, smells and smoke drifting over to the neighbors, etc. Much more
than a regular woodstove. Check your local code for any restrictions before
you buy.

dpb wrote:
....

What would you get if you consider combustion air at intake of (say) 20F
or so? That density difference, while I didn't look it up, would be
moderately sizable I'd think.

....

Actually, don't have to look anything up to get close--it's only about
10% change in absolute temperature so that's about all the density
change is as well for ideal gas. So, not a big deal...

--

Considering that the OP wants to heat a 3,000 foot home with
tongue and groove exterior, no insulation, and no tyvek, and
no intererior drywall, in the northern reaches of Nebraska,
I'd say more information needed.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"bud--" wrote in message
...
FBWNDR wrote:

At a
very rough guess, I would assume a 3000 square foot house
in the
midwest would require at least 100,000 BTU/hr furnace,
probably a
little larger.

"A 3000 square foot house" has no meaning unless you know
what the
outside temperature is. It may be a 'true', but useless
number.

Your calculation is a real interesting approach.

--
bud--

FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

45% seems awfully high for moisture content. From
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/new...toryType=garde

Seasoned firewood contains less than 20 percent moisture and generally takes
from six to eight months - and sometimes up to more than a year - to dry, or
cure. Much depends on the weather, the type of wood you have and how you prepare
and store it. Hardwood such as oak takes longer to dry than softwood like
Douglas fir or pine.

"This whole class of heaters is illegal in Washington State,
I assume due to the pollution."

I think the more correct reason as to why they are illegal
there are environazis and greenies.

On Jan 25, 4:29 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at aHeatmorboiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

45% seems awfully high for moisture content. Fromhttp://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/story.php?S_No=829&storyType=garde

Seasoned firewood contains less than 20 percent moisture and generally takes
from six to eight months - and sometimes up to more than a year - to dry, or
cure. Much depends on the weather, the type of wood you have and how you prepare
and store it. Hardwood such as oak takes longer to dry than softwood like
Douglas fir or pine.

I do a lot of work on wood fired boilers - the large ones used in
power plants. A 45% moisture content is not unusual. Kiln dried wood
is only 10-20%. But in looking over my numbers I noticed that made a
chemistry mistake, a big one, confusing moles of air for lbs of air.
I have recalculated my numbers based on ambient air of 20 degrees
(down from 40 degrees), and I used a series wood moisture contents.
This is assuming perfect combustion, and all the air is used is
combustion.

Fuel moisture content Wood fuel lbs/hr Available BTU/Hr in fuel
45% 71 246918
35% 60 260936
25% 52 268641
15% 46 275632

So, I guess that little fan does push enough air to burn enough wood.
So now I have to look into the pollutant problem. According to this
thread, there are a few states where these are being outlawed.

On 1/25/2010 13:46, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
wrote in message
...
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox.

Here in CT they are trying to outlaw them. Many com plaints about
pollution, smells and smoke drifting over to the neighbors, etc. Much more
than a regular woodstove. Check your local code for any restrictions before
you buy.



I am in PA. The state is not involved as far as I know but at least in
my area most/all of the local governments have banned them.
Unfortunately there are some really cheesy versions that are just a huge
firebox made out of steel plate with a coil wrapped around it and a
motorized damper. When the house isn't calling for heat the damper
closes and since the wood is in direct contact with the steel it really
cools off. When the house calls for heat the damper opens and it takes a
really long time to get back up to temperature and the unit belches tons
of acrid smoke. There are two of them about a mile from here and on a
typical calm winter morning it is like driving through fog when you
drive on that road.

On 1/25/2010 23:52, John Albert wrote:
"This whole class of heaters is illegal in Washington State, I assume
due to the pollution."

I think the more correct reason as to why they are illegal there are
environazis and greenies.

Not at all. Some of them are really cheaply/poorly made and belch lots
of acrid smoke. Some folks bought the cheap ones likely not knowing any
better or maybe because big box tells them cheap is all that is important.

These aren't charming fireplaces that produce a little pleasant smoke.
They belch huge amounts of very acrid stinky smoke because of their poor
design.

John Albert wrote:
"This whole class of heaters is illegal in Washington State,
I assume due to the pollution."

I think the more correct reason as to why they are illegal
there are environazis and greenies.

Don't you hate those idiots that want to breathe real air?

Andrew wrote:
On Jan 25, 4:29 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets
pumped into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating
duct of the house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air
around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at aHeatmorboiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the
boiler can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about
combustion, and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more
than 10 lbs of wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then
the available BTU is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is
very small for a 3000 square foot house.

45% seems awfully high for moisture content.
Fromhttp://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/story.php?S_No=829&storyType=garde

Seasoned firewood contains less than 20 percent moisture and
generally takes
from six to eight months - and sometimes up to more than a year - to
dry, or
cure. Much depends on the weather, the type of wood you have and how
you prepare
and store it. Hardwood such as oak takes longer to dry than softwood
like
Douglas fir or pine.

I do a lot of work on wood fired boilers - the large ones used in
power plants. A 45% moisture content is not unusual. Kiln dried wood
is only 10-20%. But in looking over my numbers I noticed that made a
chemistry mistake, a big one, confusing moles of air for lbs of air.
I have recalculated my numbers based on ambient air of 20 degrees
(down from 40 degrees), and I used a series wood moisture contents.
This is assuming perfect combustion, and all the air is used is
combustion.

Fuel moisture content Wood fuel lbs/hr Available BTU/Hr in fuel
45% 71 246918
35% 60 260936
25% 52 268641
15% 46 275632

So, I guess that little fan does push enough air to burn enough wood.
So now I have to look into the pollutant problem. According to this
thread, there are a few states where these are being outlawed.

That chart says something significant for drying your wood well, expecially when
you consider the cleaner burning of dry wood. Even if you calculate in that 15%
wood is lighter than 45%, you still get way more heat out of less wood.

On Jan 27, 1:37*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Andrew wrote:
On Jan 25, 4:29 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. *If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. *The water gets
pumped into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating
duct of the house. *The existing indoor furnace pushes the air
around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at aHeatmorboiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. *The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). *It also says that the
boiler can heat a 3000 square foot house. *I know a little about
combustion, and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more
than 10 lbs of wood an hour. *And if the wood is 45% moisture, then
the available BTU is around 40,000 BTU. *A 40,000 BTU furnace is
very small for a 3000 square foot house.

45% seems awfully high for moisture content.
Fromhttp://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/story.php?S_No=829&storyType=garde

Seasoned firewood contains less than 20 percent moisture and
generally takes
from six to eight months - and sometimes up to more than a year - to
dry, or
cure. Much depends on the weather, the type of wood you have and how
you prepare
and store it. Hardwood such as oak takes longer to dry than softwood
like
Douglas fir or pine.

I do a lot of work on wood fired boilers - the large ones used in
power plants. *A 45% moisture content is not unusual. *Kiln dried wood
is only 10-20%. *But in looking over my numbers I noticed that made a
chemistry mistake, a big one, confusing moles of air for lbs of air.
I have recalculated my numbers based on ambient air of 20 degrees
(down from 40 degrees), and I used a series wood moisture contents.
This is assuming perfect combustion, and all the air is used is
combustion.

Fuel moisture content * * *Wood fuel lbs/hr * Available BTU/Hr in fuel
45% * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *71 * * * * * * * * * *246918
35% * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *60 * * * * * * * * * *260936
25% * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *52 * * * * * * * * * *268641
15% * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *46 * * * * * * * * * *275632

So, I guess that little fan does push enough air to burn enough wood.
So now I have to look into the pollutant problem. *According to this
thread, there are a few states where these are being outlawed.

That chart says something significant for drying your wood well, expecially when
you consider the cleaner burning of dry wood. Even if you calculate in that 15%
wood is lighter than 45%, you still get way more heat out of less wood.

I agree that drying the wood will save some money. But the boilers
are rated at 100,000 BTU, which is less than half of the energy
released from the wood. If the wood is not combusted, then it is
going out of the stack in the form of gases and particulates. I sure
would like to know what kind of smoke to expect.

FBWNDR wrote:
On Jan 27, 1:37 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Andrew wrote:
On Jan 25, 4:29 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the
boiler is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water
gets pumped into a heat exchanger which is located in the main
heating duct of the house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the
air around the house.
......

Fuel moisture content Wood fuel lbs/hr Available BTU/Hr in fuel
45% 71 246918
35% 60 260936
25% 52 268641
15% 46 275632

So, I guess that little fan does push enough air to burn enough
wood. So now I have to look into the pollutant problem. According
to this thread, there are a few states where these are being
outlawed.

That chart says something significant for drying your wood well,
expecially when you consider the cleaner burning of dry wood. Even
if you calculate in that 15% wood is lighter than 45%, you still get
way more heat out of less wood.

I agree that drying the wood will save some money. But the boilers
are rated at 100,000 BTU, which is less than half of the energy
released from the wood. If the wood is not combusted, then it is
going out of the stack in the form of gases and particulates. I sure
would like to know what kind of smoke to expect.

Is the unit EPA certified? That would be a good indication. If it isn't, it is
likely to be pretty dirty. Otherwise, they would get the certification.

On Sunday, January 24, 2010 11:46:33 AM UTC-6, FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?

thanks,
FB

We have used a heatmor for years--low maintenance--add wood in morning and at night. We have a big drafty farm house and it keeps it much warmer than our propane furnace. I don't know square footage or BTU's--but I love the heat from this furnace--has definitely paid off for us--as long as you don't mind cutting and splitting alot of wood! We have had minimal repairs--patched the bladder, replaced a switch and now a water pump after 8 years of use. No smoke in the house--much safer than the wood burning furnace we had in the basement prior to that.

On 11/19/2013 6:38 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, January 24, 2010 11:46:33 AM UTC-6, FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets pumped
into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating duct of the
house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs of
wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the available BTU
is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very small for a 3000
square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?

thanks,
FB

We have used a heatmor for years--low maintenance--add
wood in morning and at night. We have a big drafty farm
house and it keeps it much warmer than our propane furnace.
I don't know square footage or BTU's--but I love the heat
from this furnace--has definitely paid off for us--as
long as you don't mind cutting and splitting alot of
wood! We have had minimal repairs--patched the bladder,
replaced a switch and now a water pump after 8 years
of use. No smoke in the house--much safer than the
wood burning furnace we had in the basement prior to that.


Wonder if the guy from two and a half years ago ever got
it figured out?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote:
On Sunday, January 24, 2010 11:46:33 AM UTC-6, FBWNDR wrote:
I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of having a wood boiler
installed on my property. If you haven't heard of these, the boiler
is built to circulate water around the firebox. The water gets
pumped into a heat exchanger which is located in the main heating
duct of the house. The existing indoor furnace pushes the air
around the house.

Anyway, I'm looking at a Heatmor boiler, and I'm now looking for
people who have experience with these. The website says that the
boiler has a forced draft fan (75 cfm). It also says that the boiler
can heat a 3000 square foot house. I know a little about combustion,
and I calculated that with 75 cfm, you cannot burn more than 10 lbs
of wood an hour. And if the wood is 45% moisture, then the
available BTU is around 40,000 BTU. A 40,000 BTU furnace is very
small for a 3000 square foot house.

So, has anybody dealt with these Heatmor furnces? Can you tell me
anything about performance and maintenance?

thanks,
FB

We have used a heatmor for years--low maintenance--add wood in
morning and at night. We have a big drafty farm house and it keeps
it much warmer than our propane furnace. I don't know square footage
or BTU's--but I love the heat from this furnace--has definitely paid
off for us--as long as you don't mind cutting and splitting alot of
wood! We have had minimal repairs--patched the bladder, replaced a
switch and now a water pump after 8 years of use. No smoke in the
house--much safer than the wood burning furnace we had in the
basement prior to that.

Interestingly, I read awhile back that they are illegal in Washington State.

a buddy had one said it worked well till one day his wife decided to burn trash in it. unfortunately trash included some canned food that exploded when burned and wrecked to burner.

later his wife was out shopping, and going into the store with her mother heard a accident crash.

they saw the old guy who hit the parked car go by but didnt get the license number they decided to mind their own business.

upon leaving they found the car the old guy hit was theirs.......

she stupidly told her husband. he was NOT HAPPY1

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