Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But,
electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with
lamps, and such.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:32:39 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But,
electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with
lamps, and such.

Dunno, but try calling your local fire station and see what brand or
model they recommend. Locally here, the firemen help the elderly folks
and will even do the install.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But,
electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with
lamps, and such.


Consumer Reports says
First Alert OneLink SCO501CN
It's a combination unit for smoke and CO.
It can be interconnected with others.
Stand alone battery model:
First Alert CO410

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But,
electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with
lamps, and such.


Macurco are the ones that I'm used to seeing in commercial
installations. They're probably spendy for use in a private home
however. CM-15A I believe is the part number of the ones I commonly see
(e.g. in hotel rooms with gas fireplaces etc.) I believe those only
accept 24V power though (they're designed to be used with fire alarm
systems)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:32:39 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries

Perhaps try to get one that takes a 9V. Ours started chirping the other
day, which is probably a low battery indication, but turns out it uses
two 3V batteries inside. Do I have any of those on standby? No chance...
can't think of a single other thing in the house that uses 'em.

I'm not qualified for senior discount. When they see my van
full of tools, they will probably make me do my own
install. I'm OK with that. But, asking the FD is a good
idea.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...

Dunno, but try calling your local fire station and see what
brand or
model they recommend. Locally here, the firemen help the
elderly folks
and will even do the install.

I've got smoke detector, already. Which reminds me of a
funny (to me) story.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Dean Hoffman" wrote in message
...

Consumer Reports says
First Alert OneLink SCO501CN
It's a combination unit for smoke and CO.
It can be interconnected with others.
Stand alone battery model:
First Alert CO410

I'll check my local Wyle E Coyote retail outlet. Might be
able to get one that will drop me off a cliff, Beep-Beep!

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Van Chocstraw" wrote in
message
...

How about an Acme made in China.

I was thinking to call my HVAC parts house. Didn't think of
that -- maybe my locksmith parts house can get detectors for
alarm systems. Interesting idea.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Nate Nagel"
wrote in message ...

Macurco are the ones that I'm used to seeing in commercial
installations. They're probably spendy for use in a private
home
however. CM-15A I believe is the part number of the ones I
commonly see
(e.g. in hotel rooms with gas fireplaces etc.) I believe
those only
accept 24V power though (they're designed to be used with
fire alarm
systems)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Ouch. One more role specific battery to buy. Lets see. I use
AAA, and AA in flash lights. CR123 in camera and a couple
flash lights. 9V in smoke detectors. C, D, and square
lantern in flash lights, and radio that takes D cells.
Specific battey for cell phone. More AA for digicam. And
then a specific 3 volt cell for the monoxide detector.
That's rough.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jules" wrote
in message
news
Perhaps try to get one that takes a 9V. Ours started
chirping the other
day, which is probably a low battery indication, but turns
out it uses
two 3V batteries inside. Do I have any of those on standby?
No chance...
can't think of a single other thing in the house that uses
'em.

On Dec 21, 9:03*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Ouch. One more role specific battery to buy. Lets see. I use
AAA, and AA in flash lights. CR123 in camera and a couple
flash lights. 9V in smoke detectors. C, D, and square
lantern in flash lights, and radio that takes D cells.
Specific battey for cell phone. More AA for digicam. And
then a specific 3 volt cell for the monoxide detector.
That's rough.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Jules" wrote
in messagenews
Perhaps try to get one that takes a 9V. Ours started
chirping the other
day, which is probably a low battery indication, but turns
out it uses
two 3V batteries inside. Do I have any of those on standby?
No chance...
can't think of a single other thing in the house that uses
'em.

I think most CO units either operate off of 120V AC or off a 9V
battery, It is easy enuf to tell when buying. The Fire Dept is a
great idea. I would like to get our local FD to provide testing for
CO detectors the way that they do for smoke/fire alarms. But I don't
know if you can buy a can of CO to use. Maybe just putting the unit
near the exhaust of a car parked outside would work. I have one
detector that is so sensitive that I wish it weren't. It kicks off if
I open the fireplace doors with the damper partly closed for more than
a few minutes. As long as the damper is open fairly wide, there is no
problem. But, it is much safer that way so I guess I should be happy.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I was thinking to call my HVAC parts house. Didn't think of
that -- maybe my locksmith parts house can get detectors for
alarm systems. Interesting idea.


Check Goldcrest Electronics, corner (sorta) of Goodman & Clinton:

http://www.goldcrestelectronics.com/

I've called them about various things over the past 2-3 years and they never
answer their phone or return calls. So, I go over there and they always have
what I'm looking for.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Ouch. One more role specific battery to buy. Lets see. I use
AAA, and AA in flash lights. CR123 in camera and a couple
flash lights. 9V in smoke detectors. C, D, and square
lantern in flash lights, and radio that takes D cells.
Specific battey for cell phone. More AA for digicam. And
then a specific 3 volt cell for the monoxide detector.
That's rough.



Can't you just install a new outlet like a regular person? Pick an easy
place. Pretend you've got a nice cold beer like a regular person, and get
the job done. Sheesh... :-)

And tell that damned choir to keep the noise down.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But,
electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with
lamps, and such.


The American Lung Association (or one of its local units) used to recommend
http://www.coexperts.com/2004brochure.pdf
This unit displays and alarms at lower CO levels than other CO alarms.
It is not UL listed because of the low alarm levels. I think the idea is
that at low, but "safe", levels there can be many false alarms to fire
departments. The manufacturer takes a different view, backed by
occupational regulatory standards. It probably does not meet
requirements to have a CO detector if you are required to have one.
It may be particularly useful if you have a 'lung condition'. It is
relatively expensive.

When I was looking for a CO detector I read that Nighthawk sensor
elements were the best. I believe they are only available in Kiddie
detectors.

I bought a Kiddie Model KN-COPP-3. It will display CO levels starting at
30 ppm but when the "recall" button is pressed it will display past
exposure down to 11 ppm. It was the only one I found (except for
coexperts) that displayed below 30 ppm.

I think they all alarm rapidly at very high CO levels and take a long
time to alarm (by design) at low levels.

The CO sensor elements may die after about 9 years. I believe the one I
bought becomes obnoxious at that time so you have to replace it.

Some alarms include combustible gas detection (CO is a combustible gas).

--
bud--

On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:22:15 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:


I think most CO units either operate off of 120V AC or off a 9V
battery, It is easy enuf to tell when buying. The Fire Dept is a
great idea. I would like to get our local FD to provide testing for
CO detectors the way that they do for smoke/fire alarms. But I don't
know if you can buy a can of CO to use.

I had a little foil envelope of CO once. Got it second hand
somewhere but it wasn't open, of course. I think I saved it for when
the detector wasn't brand new and now I don't know where it is.

Maybe just putting the unit
near the exhaust of a car parked outside would work.

I think mine is first alert and I called and asked about putting it
real close to the oil furnace, for the sake of testing it, and she
said not to do that, that it would overload and damage the detector
thingy inside.

But calling one of the company's that make them would give more recent
advice, since technology changes. Please report back here.

I have one
detector that is so sensitive that I wish it weren't. It kicks off if
I open the fireplace doors with the damper partly closed for more than
a few minutes. As long as the damper is open fairly wide, there is no
problem. But, it is much safer that way so I guess I should be happy.

In my case, my only source of CO would be the oil furnace**, and if
the electric power goes out, the furnace will stop running, so I can
use an AC powered detector.

**Or the house fire downstairs, but the smoke detector should notice
that!

Thanks, might do that. Parking is sure to be a nightmare. I
drive past there often enough. In the early eighties when CB
radio was the craze, friends of mine bought parts there. And
Masline Electronics, on South Clinton.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in
message ...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote
in message
...
I was thinking to call my HVAC parts house. Didn't think of
that -- maybe my locksmith parts house can get detectors
for
alarm systems. Interesting idea.


Check Goldcrest Electronics, corner (sorta) of Goodman &
Clinton:

http://www.goldcrestelectronics.com/

I've called them about various things over the past 2-3
years and they never
answer their phone or return calls. So, I go over there and
they always have
what I'm looking for.

They have their own small lot behind the building, accessible from the
street which hits Goodman at a weird angle. You'll find it easily.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Thanks, might do that. Parking is sure to be a nightmare. I
drive past there often enough. In the early eighties when CB
radio was the craze, friends of mine bought parts there. And
Masline Electronics, on South Clinton.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in
message ...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote
in message
...
I was thinking to call my HVAC parts house. Didn't think of
that -- maybe my locksmith parts house can get detectors
for
alarm systems. Interesting idea.


Check Goldcrest Electronics, corner (sorta) of Goodman &
Clinton:

http://www.goldcrestelectronics.com/

I've called them about various things over the past 2-3
years and they never
answer their phone or return calls. So, I go over there and
they always have
what I'm looking for.

Years ago we had a first alert and it went off, so I called the fire
department and they were there instantly, and in force, with their own
detectors that found no problem. I was talking to the Captain and said
it was a bit embarrassing to have all those trucks in the street and
asked what I could do to prevent another false reading. He suggested
getting a Nighthawk to replace the first alert.

The Nighthawk I found was the powered model (I don't know if they make a
battery model) so I bought it and plugged it in. I like it because it
gives a constant reading, even though it is negative, as that makes me
think the thing is still working. Its worked well for many years now.
Perhaps first alert has improved their product over the years, but I'm
still happy with my Nighthawk. I don't trust battery models as I travel
a lot and might not be home when the battery chirps to death, and
checking for the flashing light is too easy to forget.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But,
electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with
lamps, and such.

Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But,
electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with
lamps, and such.

Whatever you do, get the digital. The squealing types go off when the CO is
high enough to reach threshold levels. Say it's 400 ppm. What if it's 390?
Wouldn't you want to know that there was some sort of a problem, and that
you were approaching critical mass? They have memory. What if the thing
goes off while you are not at home, but the levels return to safe before you
get back, and the squealer isn't squealing? You will have no indication of
the incident. Spend some bucks and get a good one. Digital. You are
betting your life and others on it.

Steve

Well, if you think I should. I'll saw a hole in the
paneling, int he perfect place for the detector. Try to fish
a wire down the wall, and find out it's got horizontal fire
break. Go back to the store and buy a long installer bit,
and try to drill through the firebreak. Find out my bit
isn't long enough (4 foot) and go back and buy a six foot
bit. Drill through the water copper, and have to take out a
section of baseboard, and then paneling to fix the hole in
the water copper. Light the wallboard on fire with the
propane torch. Soften the flakeboard floor with the water
that sprays, wehn I find out my soldering techinque wasn't
doing very good. Lucky it did, put out the smouldering wall
board. Nail the paneling back up, and find out I left the
six foot drill bit in the bay, and now it's nailed in. No
worries, got my hole. Try, in vain, to push a lenth of Romex
up from the cellar to the outlet hole, with no success. Try,
instead, from the top. Finally, it's about midnight and I
got to be to work in the morning. Get home from work
tomorrow, and find out that wife #6 has bought a battery
monoxide detector, and put it over the outlet hole, and
finished nailing up the panneling. She greets me with a pan
of home baked brownies, and all my 7 wives and 32 children
tell me what a good job I did.

Sorry about the choir. My 4th teenage daughter is going
through a phase.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in
message ...



Can't you just install a new outlet like a regular person?
Pick an easy
place. Pretend you've got a nice cold beer like a regular
person, and get
the job done. Sheesh... :-)

And tell that damned choir to keep the noise down.

Kewl! Kidde is the brand that Home Depot had. We're in good
company. Like smoke detectors, they are no longer functional
after some years. Seems like the CO detector is good for 10
years, and the furnace is good for 20.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"bud--" wrote in message
.. .
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But,
electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with
lamps, and such.


The American Lung Association (or one of its local units)
used to recommend
http://www.coexperts.com/2004brochure.pdf
This unit displays and alarms at lower CO levels than other
CO alarms.
It is not UL listed because of the low alarm levels. I think
the idea is
that at low, but "safe", levels there can be many false
alarms to fire
departments. The manufacturer takes a different view, backed
by
occupational regulatory standards. It probably does not meet
requirements to have a CO detector if you are required to
have one.
It may be particularly useful if you have a 'lung
condition'. It is
relatively expensive.

When I was looking for a CO detector I read that Nighthawk
sensor
elements were the best. I believe they are only available in
Kiddie
detectors.

I bought a Kiddie Model KN-COPP-3. It will display CO levels
starting at
30 ppm but when the "recall" button is pressed it will
display past
exposure down to 11 ppm. It was the only one I found (except
for
coexperts) that displayed below 30 ppm.

I think they all alarm rapidly at very high CO levels and
take a long
time to alarm (by design) at low levels.

The CO sensor elements may die after about 9 years. I
believe the one I
bought becomes obnoxious at that time so you have to
replace it.

Some alarms include combustible gas detection (CO is a
combustible gas).

--
bud--

I was in Home Depot today, buying a couple parts. Walked
past the smoke detectors. One from Kidde was under $20, and
takes three AA cells. First set of batteries included. So, I
bought it.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Well, if you think I should. I'll saw a hole in the
paneling, int he perfect place for the detector. Try to fish
a wire down the wall, and find out it's got horizontal fire
break. Go back to the store and buy a long installer bit,
and try to drill through the firebreak. Find out my bit
isn't long enough (4 foot) and go back and buy a six foot
bit. Drill through the water copper, and have to take out a
section of baseboard, and then paneling to fix the hole in
the water copper. Light the wallboard on fire with the
propane torch. Soften the flakeboard floor with the water
that sprays, wehn I find out my soldering techinque wasn't
doing very good. Lucky it did, put out the smouldering wall
board. Nail the paneling back up, and find out I left the
six foot drill bit in the bay, and now it's nailed in. No
worries, got my hole. Try, in vain, to push a lenth of Romex
up from the cellar to the outlet hole, with no success. Try,
instead, from the top. Finally, it's about midnight and I
got to be to work in the morning. Get home from work
tomorrow, and find out that wife #6 has bought a battery
monoxide detector, and put it over the outlet hole, and
finished nailing up the panneling. She greets me with a pan
of home baked brownies, and all my 7 wives and 32 children
tell me what a good job I did.


A normal installation, in other words. I don't see the problem.

Perhaps try to get one that takes a 9V. Ours started chirping the other
day, which is probably a low battery indication, but turns out it uses
two 3V batteries inside. Do I have any of those on standby? No chance...
can't think of a single other thing in the house that uses 'em.

IIRC, they are a little spendy, too.

Steve

I think most CO units either operate off of 120V AC or off a 9V
battery, It is easy enuf to tell when buying. The Fire Dept is a
great idea. I would like to get our local FD to provide testing for
CO detectors the way that they do for smoke/fire alarms. But I don't
know if you can buy a can of CO to use. Maybe just putting the unit
near the exhaust of a car parked outside would work. I have one
detector that is so sensitive that I wish it weren't. It kicks off if
I open the fireplace doors with the damper partly closed for more than
a few minutes. As long as the damper is open fairly wide, there is no
problem. But, it is much safer that way so I guess I should be happy.

Reply: a lower than lethal dose may make you sleepy, or just put you into a
sleep, and if the level rose after that, you'd be front page material. I,
too, like the sensitive ones that give a constant readout.

Steve

I'll get right on it! (fire extinguisher optional)

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in
message ...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote
in message
...
Well, if you think I should. I'll saw a hole in the
paneling, int he perfect place for the detector. Try to
fish
a wire down the wall, and find out it's got horizontal
fire
break. Go back to the store and buy a long installer bit,
and try to drill through the firebreak. Find out my bit
isn't long enough (4 foot) and go back and buy a six foot
bit. Drill through the water copper, and have to take out
a
section of baseboard, and then paneling to fix the hole in
the water copper. Light the wallboard on fire with the
propane torch. Soften the flakeboard floor with the water
that sprays, wehn I find out my soldering techinque wasn't
doing very good. Lucky it did, put out the smouldering
wall
board. Nail the paneling back up, and find out I left the
six foot drill bit in the bay, and now it's nailed in. No
worries, got my hole. Try, in vain, to push a lenth of
Romex
up from the cellar to the outlet hole, with no success.
Try,
instead, from the top. Finally, it's about midnight and I
got to be to work in the morning. Get home from work
tomorrow, and find out that wife #6 has bought a battery
monoxide detector, and put it over the outlet hole, and
finished nailing up the panneling. She greets me with a
pan
of home baked brownies, and all my 7 wives and 32 children
tell me what a good job I did.


A normal installation, in other words. I don't see the
problem.

On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:32:39 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But,
electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with
lamps, and such.

The Nighthawk is a good one. It has battery backup and continuous
display. You will need somewhere to plug in the adapter.

On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 14:23:23 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


Reply: a lower than lethal dose may make you sleepy, or just put you into a
sleep, and if the level rose after that, you'd be front page material. I,
too, like the sensitive ones that give a constant readout.

Steve


There's a stage with CO when you have headaches. I almost never get
headaches so that would be a red flag. Those who get headaches
anyhow, I guess they should go outside or drive to a store and see if
the headache goes away. I wonder how long it would take to go away.

On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 14:23:23 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


Reply: a lower than lethal dose may make you sleepy, or just put you into a
sleep, and if the level rose after that, you'd be front page material. I,
too, like the sensitive ones that give a constant readout.

Steve

If more than one person in a family has symptoms, that's a big warning
sign.

Monoxide has a LONG half life in the blood. I can't remember
off hand, but it's more time than a trip to the store. Day,
or two days, or something extended like that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"mm" wrote in message
...

There's a stage with CO when you have headaches. I almost
never get
headaches so that would be a red flag. Those who get
headaches
anyhow, I guess they should go outside or drive to a store
and see if
the headache goes away. I wonder how long it would take to
go away.

That's very wise thought. With colds and such, it's likely
to be someone first, and the others later.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"mm" wrote in message
...


If more than one person in a family has symptoms, that's a
big warning
sign.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I'll get right on it! (fire extinguisher optional)


Is there anyplace in the house where surface mounted wire channel would not
look weird? That's an easy way to add an outlet.

The whole house looks a bit strange, so wire mold is on
topic any where.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in
message ...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote
in message
...
I'll get right on it! (fire extinguisher optional)


Is there anyplace in the house where surface mounted wire
channel would not
look weird? That's an easy way to add an outlet.

On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 11:45:47 -0500, "Not@home" wrote:

Years ago we had a first alert and it went off, so I called the fire
department and they were there instantly, and in force, with their own
detectors that found no problem. I was talking to the Captain and said
it was a bit embarrassing to have all those trucks in the street and
asked what I could do to prevent another false reading. He suggested
getting a Nighthawk to replace the first alert.

The Nighthawk I found was the powered model (I don't know if they make a
battery model) so I bought it and plugged it in. I like it because it
gives a constant reading, even though it is negative, as that makes me
think the thing is still working. Its worked well for many years now.
Perhaps first alert has improved their product over the years, but I'm
still happy with my Nighthawk. I don't trust battery models as I travel
a lot and might not be home when the battery chirps to death, and
checking for the flashing light is too easy to forget.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide
detector?

I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But,
electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with
lamps, and such.



I like my Nighthawks. I use one in the utility room, kitchen, attic,
hallway. The one in the kitchen goes off the most and reminds us to
use the exhaust fan while cooking. On occasion it gives a "10"
reading, too low to set off the alarm. The Nighthawks chirp whenever
we lose power (about 10 times a year), but they still operate on a 9V
batt when there is no power.