Didn't even really need to remove the bolt -- just pop the
wires on the new resistor, and let it hang there. Of course,
the bolt was ideal for a good change out.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"The Daring Dufas" wrote
in message ...

The secret was to carry an extra "dual ballast resistor" in
the glove
box for all the Mopars with the electronic ignition. I had
several
go out and it was a 10 minute or less repair job.

TDD

notbob wrote:

On 2009-12-18, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Still gets 25 MPG.

My old '62 Dodge Lancer with slant six and AT got 22mph on highway.


Bet that was a hazard. Watched a lot of bumpers did you?

nb

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

"The Daring Dufas" wrote:

The secret was to carry an extra "dual ballast resistor" in the
glove
box for all the Mopars with the electronic ignition. I had several
go out and it was a 10 minute or less repair job.

The real secret is not to get involved with a Chrysler POS.

Lew

On 12/18/2009 3:23 AM spake thus:

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 16:56:34 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 12/17/2009 1:27 PM J. Clarke spake thus:

And after Graflex went under, Sakai bought the tooling and continued to make
them for another decade or so in Japan as the Toyo Super Graphic.

And at some point in the US Singer (the sewing-machine company)
bought up Graflex and made them (or had them made) under their
name. Not sure how that worked out w/the Japanese co.

I used to think that such things were quaint anachronisms until I
found out what they could do. Never got into large format myself
but one of these days . . .

They're out there just waiting for you. Film and stuff is still
available too.

I have a Linhoff Teknica 4x5 and an array of lenses that I still use
occasionally. The results I get are astounding. Worth the price just
for that wonderful compensating bellows on the back.

Well, all I can say is "you suck". Here we were, having a nice
discussion about *affordable* (now) LF cameras, and you have to start
talking about your Mercedes ...


--
I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on
Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours.

- harvested from Usenet

Jules writes:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 17:45:33 +0000, notbob wrote:

On 2009-12-18, Peter Huebner wrote:

And, talking of reliable European cars, I've known quite a few series 2
Volvos that cracked half a million kilometres ... Now that Ford are
messing with the Volvo design I think that will not be the case any
more, I won't buy another Volvo designed & built since 2006. Currently
driving an 850 wagon and an XC70. Wonderful cars to drive, but lots of
little things go wrong all of the time :-(

Even the supposedly best of them ...Mercedes and BMW.... are not
without flaws. My buddies SL head gasket leaks oil like the Exxon Vadez and its
paint went just as quickly as my same year Civic in the scorching CA
sun. Another friend's BMW dash upholstery split open like ripe puffball, and it
only 8 yrs old. I've seen brand new Mercedes with orange peel paint
to rival the worst from detroit.

I think the important part is in distinguishing between design issues and
manufacturing ones - i.e. whether there's something fundamentally bad
about the design, or if the fault lies with the way they're put together.
I'm not sure if you can say that a "European car" is bad if the faults are
all on the assembly side, and that assembly is done locally to the country
where the car is sold.

Friend of mine had a 750IL (yeah, the james bond one). The interior
pretty much disintegrated; many of the leds on the dash died, to the
point where you could no longer read the odometer. The passenger side
front door window broke every time the door was closed hard. He went
through at least three radios. 12 cylinders to service. Never again,
he said.

scott

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 13:19:42 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 12/18/2009 3:23 AM spake thus:

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 16:56:34 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 12/17/2009 1:27 PM J. Clarke spake thus:

And after Graflex went under, Sakai bought the tooling and continued to make
them for another decade or so in Japan as the Toyo Super Graphic.

And at some point in the US Singer (the sewing-machine company)
bought up Graflex and made them (or had them made) under their
name. Not sure how that worked out w/the Japanese co.

I used to think that such things were quaint anachronisms until I
found out what they could do. Never got into large format myself
but one of these days . . .

They're out there just waiting for you. Film and stuff is still
available too.

I have a Linhoff Teknica 4x5 and an array of lenses that I still use
occasionally. The results I get are astounding. Worth the price just
for that wonderful compensating bellows on the back.

Well, all I can say is "you suck". Here we were, having a nice
discussion about *affordable* (now) LF cameras, and you have to start
talking about your Mercedes ...

I inherited it!

To be honest, I'd rather have my father back.

notbob wrote:
On 2009-12-18, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Still gets 25 MPG.

My old '62 Dodge Lancer with slant six and AT got 22mph on highway.


As long as we're bragging, my 1970 Ford Custom got 9mph.

'Course it had a police interceptor engine, a calibrated speedometer up to
140, an 8-quart crankcase, and, believe it or not, a DELCO alternator.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 17:33:47 -0600, HeyBub wrote:
As long as we're bragging, my 1970 Ford Custom got 9mph.

'Course it had a police interceptor engine, a calibrated speedometer up to
140, an 8-quart crankcase, and, believe it or not, a DELCO alternator.

What good's a speedo up to 140 if it won't go beyond 10mph?

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 08:25:17 -0600, Jules
wrote:

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:51:01 -0600, Leon wrote:
"hot" water heater? I only need a "water heater". ;!) Iknow, I know, it
reheats relatively hot water, but would a hot water heater work if it were
full of cold water?

Define "cold". My water comes out of the ground at a pretty much constant
55 degrees year-round, and that's considerably hotter than freezing ;-)

Mine sure doesn't. There is a big change in the shower handle
position between summer and winter. When I lived in VT we were lucky
it came out liquid in the winter. ;-) The frost line often went down
7' and not all water lines did. Since we had a domestic hot water
coil in the boiler, the hot water temperature varied quite a lot too.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 08:28:35 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

No new text?
I used to wash my slant sixes in the carwash -engiine running or
engine off, and just hose the entire engine down, and they would
ALWAYS either stay running or restart without problems.

I used good wires (Silver Beauty MSW) and premium caps.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 09:32:50 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:


I remember when I was a real little kid my dad had an old
beater
Valiant - I think it was a '64 or thereabouts. He was
always having
problems with the carburetor on it... years later I dated a
girl with
a '69, that car had a Holley 1bbl and it too had issues.
Replaced the
carb with a Carter and it ran splendiferously ever after.

CY: Those carbs were interesting, you could actually adjust
them. I found the adjustment that worked for me was lightly
closed, and then out 3 half turns. The vacuum lines always
wanted to fall off. If the vac line fell off (the one to the
air cleaner) the car ran poorly.


Only
problems with it after that point were a ballast resistor
that failed,

CY: And the engine didn't run. I learned to carry spare
ballast resistors. As also did most Chrysler owners.

The ones that burned ballast resistors were the early electronics -
dual ballast units.

and the fact that the points would burn just about every 9
mos. like
clockwork (maybe due to a off spec replacement ballast?)

CY: Burning points is typically due to bad condensor. They
are replaced as a set.


then she had
to have the head redone because she didn't adjust the valves
(probably
ever) and burned one.

CY: Most likely, never. Few people do.

Other than that it was a very reliable car,
wish I had it today.

CY: A starter and alternator every year and a half?

nate

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 17:31:35 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2009-12-18, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Interesting idea. I've used heavier oils, or STP oil
treatment.

The old-timer's trick was to change to paraffin-based oil. It would
slow the leak and any smoking way down. This was always a last ditch
solution to an old tired engine needing rebuild cuz it would sludge up
an engine beyond belief and could never return to reg oils. I doubt
you can even find/buy paraffin-based oil, anymore.

nb
Quaker state and Pennzoil are still made from parrafin base stock I
believe. Perhaps not exclusively, but Pensylvania crude is parrafin.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 12:10:36 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

notbob wrote:
On 2009-12-18, Stormin Mormon wrote:


318 was a pain, I may still have my 12 point distributor
wrench. 9/16 was it?

Depends on the vehicle. I had a 318 in a 74 van. When the weather
became very hot (100+), specially after they took the lead out of gas,
it would ping badly going up a grade. I timed it by removing the
engine shroud, loosening the distibutor clamp nut, and adjusting the
distributor until the pinging ceased. All this while driving up said
grade, the distributor being a within easy reach of my right hand.

I remember my Mopars being very moisture sensetive. Even
knowing the module ground and all, somtimes they just didn't
want to start if there was some humidity around. Or rain the
day before.

I had this happen once. I removed the distibutor cap and saw it was
literally dripping moisture. I liberally sprayed it and the points
with WD40 and reassembled. Fired right up. The WD stands for water
displacement.

nb

The secret was to carry an extra "dual ballast resistor" in the glove
box for all the Mopars with the electronic ignition. I had several
go out and it was a 10 minute or less repair job.

TDD
My spare was always bolted to the firewall. Just move the plugs from
one to the other and away you go - to the parts store to replace the
"spare"

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 11:51:18 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"The Daring Dufas" wrote:

The secret was to carry an extra "dual ballast resistor" in the
glove
box for all the Mopars with the electronic ignition. I had several
go out and it was a 10 minute or less repair job.

The real secret is not to get involved with a Chrysler POS.

Lew


Some of the best cars I ever owned were early Mopars. I've owned 53,
57, 63, 69, 74, 76, 85, 88, and now a 2002.

The 69 was likely the best.

The 63 was a 170 slant six automatic Valiant done to the nines - went
like stink, idled poorly, and liked it's gas. The 69 was a 225
automatic, not as highly tuned. Not as fast, and not as thirsty.

The '74 was also a 225 automatic, basically stock - a 25mpg highway
car.

The 76 was a 318 Ramcharger - need I say more?? The 85 was a 2.6 Mitsu
that I rebuilt - engine was still running 8 years later (in another
car).

The 88 was a 3.0 Mitsu - it had 3 sets of heads over it's 240,000km
lifespan before I sold it - still running and looking fantastic at 18
years of age.

The 2002 is a PT Cruiser.

The 57 was a 261 Flathead 6 in a Fargo Pickup. The 53 was a 241 Red
Ram Hemi in a Coronet Sierra 2 door wagon - sure wish I still had that
one!!!!!

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 08:41:21 -0600, Jules
wrote:

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 18:10:14 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:
I had an old bus ('65 w/a Super Beetle engine) that I drove from coast
to coast. It finally died, but nearly everything bad that happened to it
was my fault, even though I otherwise took very good care of it.

Question: did they ever sell the truck version in the US? (think bus
but with most of the roof chopped off and a load bed in the back).

Yup - Transporter.

Couple of my uncles had those as farm trucks in the early 70s (because
they were cheap, easy to fix and they never needed them to be fast or
go long distances, I suppose). There can't have been many manufacturers
offering rear-engined pickups. Not seen one on the road for years, though.

cheers

Jules

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 17:45:33 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2009-12-18, Peter Huebner wrote:

And, talking of reliable European cars, I've known quite a few series 2
Volvos that cracked half a million kilometres ... Now that Ford are
messing with the Volvo design I think that will not be the case any
more, I won't buy another Volvo designed & built since 2006. Currently
driving an 850 wagon and an XC70. Wonderful cars to drive, but lots of
little things go wrong all of the time :-(

Even the supposedly best of them ...Mercedes and BMW.... are not
without flaws. My buddies SL head gasket leaks oil like the Exxon Vadez and its
paint went just as quickly as my same year Civic in the scorching CA
sun. Another friend's BMW dash upholstery split open like ripe puffball, and it
only 8 yrs old. I've seen brand new Mercedes with orange peel paint
to rival the worst from detroit. Having recently moved here to CO,
I'm stunned to find how popular Buicks are. Talked to a Fifth Ave
owner who had 350K miles without a hiccup. Quality is where you find
it and not necessarily from where you expect it.

nb

The "Fifth Avenue" was a Chrysler.
Buick's was the "Park Avenue"

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 11:57:13 -0600, Jules
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 17:45:33 +0000, notbob wrote:

On 2009-12-18, Peter Huebner wrote:

And, talking of reliable European cars, I've known quite a few series 2
Volvos that cracked half a million kilometres ... Now that Ford are
messing with the Volvo design I think that will not be the case any
more, I won't buy another Volvo designed & built since 2006. Currently
driving an 850 wagon and an XC70. Wonderful cars to drive, but lots of
little things go wrong all of the time :-(

Even the supposedly best of them ...Mercedes and BMW.... are not
without flaws. My buddies SL head gasket leaks oil like the Exxon Vadez and its
paint went just as quickly as my same year Civic in the scorching CA
sun. Another friend's BMW dash upholstery split open like ripe puffball, and it
only 8 yrs old. I've seen brand new Mercedes with orange peel paint
to rival the worst from detroit.

I think the important part is in distinguishing between design issues and
manufacturing ones - i.e. whether there's something fundamentally bad
about the design, or if the fault lies with the way they're put together.
I'm not sure if you can say that a "European car" is bad if the faults are
all on the assembly side, and that assembly is done locally to the country
where the car is sold.

I'm stunned to find how popular Buicks are. Talked to a Fifth Ave owner
who had 350K miles without a hiccup.

Wonder what the record currently is and who holds it? Back in the '80s I
think Mercedes had it for one of their diesels, but that was a loooong
time ago now.

cheers

Jules
The record for Tacicab service was a 1963 Plymouth.Fury owned and
driven by Joseph Vaillancourt of Montreal Canada with 1,621,591 miles
on the clock when Joe and the cab retired a couple years ago.. I
believe that is a record for the highest number of miles on a car in
North America.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 17:59:44 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2009-12-18, wrote:

Jeep made a cab-over pickup, which was pretty interesting.

Yes! In fact, there's one for sale jes a few blocks from that VW
bus/pickup I mentioned. The guy has had it up for sale since I moved
here 2 yrs ago. I'm becoming more and more curious as to why it has
never sold, this being major jeep country (CO Rockies @ 8K ft!).
Price too high? Mech problems? I'd even consider buying it, it being
so downright funky and rare. I should call him one of these days.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Forward_Control

nb
He likely knows it is rare and is asking too much. They had the
gutless little Typhoon F-Head 4 cyl in them.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 13:15:21 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 17:59:44 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2009-12-18, wrote:

Jeep made a cab-over pickup, which was pretty interesting.

Yes! In fact, there's one for sale jes a few blocks from that VW
bus/pickup I mentioned. The guy has had it up for sale since I moved
here 2 yrs ago. I'm becoming more and more curious as to why it has
never sold, this being major jeep country (CO Rockies @ 8K ft!).
Price too high? Mech problems? I'd even consider buying it, it being
so downright funky and rare. I should call him one of these days.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Forward_Control

nb

They weren't such great vehicles. I am not sure they had 4wd, either.
Basically a CJ with a lot of extra weight on it.
They were available with 4 wheel drive. I know a guy used to try to
plow snow with one. 6 foot blade, and still not enough power. Lots of
traction though- - - .

wrote:


Some of the best cars I ever owned were early Mopars. I've owned 53,
57, 63, 69, 74, 76, 85, 88, and now a 2002.

A real glutton for punishment I see.

Lew

Somebody wrote:

Now that Ford are
messing with the Volvo design I think that will not be the case any
more, I won't buy another Volvo designed & built since 2006.

FoMoCo wasn't too shabby in the way they cleaned up Jaguar.

Lew

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 22:13:28 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"LDosser" wrote in message
...


I had several with the 225 slant six and one with the 318. Did most of
my own work on them and all tune ups. Only thing I didn't like was
setting the points on the slant six (exhaust header burns on fore arm)
and trying to start either if a neighborhood dog peed within a block or
so while the engine was turning over ...


They made a header for the slant 6??

Yes, but

My bad. Head was thinking exhaust manifold and fingers were busy thinking
about after market parts.

Was your exhaust manifold cracked. IIRC that was a problem with that
engine. When cold the engine exhaust manifold was kinda noisy and quietened
up when it got hot.


They really only cracked if they were overtorqued. Usually started
with a loose manifold and a burned gasket - so it was tighteded trying
to fix the gasket leak - which then cracked the manifold.. I know - I
replaced lots of them back then. Including ONE of my own.


Here hold my beer and watch this!

My buddy was given his mother's Beige 4 door 65 Dodge Coronet. Slant 6,
auto trans. That thing was full race and looked the part. OR NOT!.
One cold night we were out kinda late in Corpus Christi sipping on a
couple of large screw top bottles of beer. Brand, did not matter.

If it was Lone Star ...

I believe you are right.... MY BIL was the VP of the local Lone Star
distributorship.



We were going down the freeway with darn little traffic so we are going
about 70.

My buddy looked over at me and said, watch this. He reached up grabbed
the shift lever, and yanked it down all the way into low. The engine
roared and we suddenly slowed down.

But it only downshifted into second. To get it into low required
hitting the brakes and the accellerator to get the driveshaft speed
down (by sliding the rear wheels) and the throttle pressure up (by
flooring the accellerator. With my 63 set up the way I had it
(206RWHP) I could force it into low at about 58MPH, but no higher -
and it would do 60 in 1st if I held it in.

And?

That's it the engine roared and we slowed down. That was an industrial
engine used on other applications other than automitive and they could be
abused. Back then was also when the Chrysler products had bullet proof
transmissions also. Remember the commericals where the guy floors the
accelerator pedal and does what my froend did except he goes from D to R and
back to D. Close up of the smokin rear tire shows it reversing dirrections
a couple of times.

The 727 was good for "fish-hooks" at about 20MPH on a 318 or 383.
As foir the engine, it was USED as an industrial engine, but it was
DESIGNED as an automotive powerplant - actually for the Valiant (first
application of the slant six engine)

That car was our "tank" It saw a lot of action in local farmers corn
fields.

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 20:26:07 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:

"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"LDosser" wrote in message
...


I had several with the 225 slant six and one with the 318. Did most of
my own work on them and all tune ups. Only thing I didn't like was
setting the points on the slant six (exhaust header burns on fore arm)
and trying to start either if a neighborhood dog peed within a block or
so while the engine was turning over ...



The points were on the opposite side of the engine from the exhaust,
so exhaust burns were NOT a possibility unless you were an orangutan.

I always set the engine to #1 TDC and pulled the distributor to do
points on my conventional ignition Slanties. On the 170 I had to - set
them up on the distributor machine to make sure they didn't bounce or
float at 6500RPM. Anything other than #1 TDC they were a royal pain
to get properly retimed.

They made a header for the slant 6??

They did - actually quite a few companies - but You didn't see many -
the warmup wirhout a heat rizer was pretty tricky in cold weather, and
carb icing was a real problem with any humidity at all.


Ignition was never a problem if you used good wires and caps - mine
would start with a garden hose running over the engine.

Yes, but

My bad. Head was thinking exhaust manifold and fingers were busy thinking
about after market parts.

Was your exhaust manifold cracked. IIRC that was a problem with that
engine. When cold the engine exhaust manifold was kinda noisy and
quietened up when it got hot.


The manifolds generally cracked when they were overtorqued trying to
stop a manifold gasket leak.


No, but it was hot.




Here hold my beer and watch this!

My buddy was given his mother's Beige 4 door 65 Dodge Coronet. Slant 6,
auto trans. That thing was full race and looked the part. OR NOT!.
One cold night we were out kinda late in Corpus Christi sipping on a
couple of large screw top bottles of beer. Brand, did not matter.

If it was Lone Star ...

I believe you are right.... MY BIL was the VP of the local Lone Star
distributorship.



We were going down the freeway with darn little traffic so we are going
about 70.

My buddy looked over at me and said, watch this. He reached up grabbed
the shift lever, and yanked it down all the way into low. The engine
roared and we suddenly slowed down.

They would not shift into low above about 58MPH, and even then you
needed to have your foot to the floor to do it.
And?

That's it the engine roared and we slowed down. That was an industrial
engine used on other applications other than automitive and they could be
abused. Back then was also when the Chrysler products had bullet proof
transmissions also. Remember the commericals where the guy floors the
accelerator pedal and does what my froend did except he goes from D to R
and back to D. Close up of the smokin rear tire shows it reversing
dirrections a couple of times.

The slant six was designed for the Valiant - and then used as an
industrial engine, truck engine, and base engine on just about
everything Chrysler built.

The dual pump automatics would take a real beating - but the
"fish-hook" trick generally only worked at speeds under 30MPH
(actually 20, IIRC) They would not engage reverse at higher speeds.

That car was our "tank" It saw a lot of action in local farmers corn
fields.

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 21:46:02 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "LDosser"
wrote:

I had several with the 225 slant six and one with the 318. Did most of my
own work on them and all tune ups. Only thing I didn't like was setting
the
points on the slant six (exhaust header burns on fore arm)

That'd be a pretty neat trick, considering that the distributor on a
slant-six
is half-way down the block on the passenger side, and the exhaust manifold
is
all the way at the top of the engine on the driver's side. You'd think
that
someone who'd done all that work on a slant-six would know where the
distributor is.


Long arms. They say memory is the first to go ... Anyone know what the hell
I was burning myself on?

The edge of the rocker cover and the side of the cyl head. Or the oil
filter.

I ALWAYS pulled the distributor to do points on Slant Sixes. ALWAYS
set to #1 TDC first too. And I did a LOT of them.

My 170 always had the points set on a distributor machine to be sure
there was no bounce or float at 6500 RPM - always used the Blue Streak
High Performance points - the only kind that wouldn't either bounce,
float, or break the spring. (206 RWHP through the push-button
automatic at 6000 RPM ( 60+ in first, 90+ in second, and bury the
speedo in third)
It's the only car I've ever owned that I could redline in top gear.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 08:34:26 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Probably replacing the starter, which is on top, on the
drivers side.
That WAS a nasty job. Had to do it in a blizzard, in a shopping
plaza parking lot on Christmas Eve, leaving the next day from Waterloo
Ontario for Banff Alberta - 1969 Dart in 1971/72.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 14:19:01 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , "Stormin Mormon" wrote:
Probably replacing the starter, which is on top, on the
drivers side.

Ummmm...... No, the starter is *not* "on top" on a slant six. It's on the
upper side of the slant, yes, but it's down at the bottom of the block, just
like it is on every other engine I've ever seen.


Depends on your definition of "top" The engine lays leaned to the
right - and the starter lays on the "top" or Left side - while the
distributor hangs, with the oil filter, on the "bottom" or Right side.
You pretty well have to change the starter from above because it
generally doesn't fit between the block and the steering box working
from below. ANd the exhast and intake manifolds limit access from
above, particularly when hot.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 09:44:57 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Does one replace a slant six starter from under the hood "on
top" or from laying on the ground "underneath"?

I've always done Chrysler slant six starters from under the
hood.
Almost the ONLY way, on most.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 17:33:47 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

notbob wrote:
On 2009-12-18, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Still gets 25 MPG.

My old '62 Dodge Lancer with slant six and AT got 22mph on highway.


As long as we're bragging, my 1970 Ford Custom got 9mph.

'Course it had a police interceptor engine, a calibrated speedometer up to
140, an 8-quart crankcase, and, believe it or not, a DELCO alternator.

9MPG, I hope, not 9MPH - and are you absolutely sure it had a DELCO
alternator? All the heavy duty equipped interceptors I ever worked on
had Leece Neville alternators back then.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 19:36:45 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


wrote:


Some of the best cars I ever owned were early Mopars. I've owned 53,
57, 63, 69, 74, 76, 85, 88, and now a 2002.

A real glutton for punishment I see.

Lew

You want to know what else fit in between them?

Some of them WERE punishment!!!

1928 Chevy, 1935 Chevy, 1938 Hudson Terraplane, 1961 Mini, 1949 VW
Bug, 1972 Vauxhaul HC (Firenza) (AKA Magnum), 1967 Peugeot204, 1972
Renault 12 (rallye car), 1975 Pacer, 1965 Rambler Classic, 1972
Ambassador, ?? VW Rabbit, 1995 Pontiac TransSport, 1967 Chevy Nova,
1972 Dodge Colt,(Mitsubishi Gallant), 1982 Corolla wagon, 1981 Tercel,
1996 Mystique, 1989 and 1990 Aerostars plus a few motorcycles - not
counting the company cars I've driven.

In article , sails.man2
@verizon.net says...

Somebody wrote:

Now that Ford are
messing with the Volvo design I think that will not be the case any
more, I won't buy another Volvo designed & built since 2006.

FoMoCo wasn't too shabby in the way they cleaned up Jaguar.

Lew

Yes, I understand things at BMC went pretty ****ty for a long time.

But:
To give you an example: the straight5 Volvo engines at 2 or 2.4 litres
with a turbo are great. Quite economical, and capable to turning a 2t
brick ****house of a car into a 'pocket rocket'. I start overtaking some
slow-poke at 50mph, by the time I pass his bonnet I'm doing 75mph and
that's without taking a run-up or anything.

Now Ford/Volvo has seen fit as of 2007 to put a petrol guzzling 3.2
litre engine into the new XC70ies. It doesn't fscking NEED that, it'll
just be a drain on the wallet ... and quite possibly not as good a
motor.

I don't like Ford any more. They sold me what turned out to be a Ford-
rebadged Shibaura tractor, made from crap steel that rotted like
nobody's business within a few years. Some friends drove a Ford-rebadged
Mazda that spent more time in the shop than on the road ... nah. My
local mechanic says the more recent Ford engines are crap in his
opinion, and I won't argue.

f.w.i.w.

If they're going to start reselling Mazdas rebadged as Volvos, then I
might as well go and buy Japanese at half the price in the first place;
hell, I can buy 3 Korean 'luxury vehicles' for the price of one Volvo
for that matter, plus, I'd go Toyota over Mazda any old day of the week.

Anyhow, getting way off topic here now ;-)

-P.

wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 12:10:36 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

notbob wrote:
On 2009-12-18, Stormin Mormon wrote:


318 was a pain, I may still have my 12 point distributor
wrench. 9/16 was it?
Depends on the vehicle. I had a 318 in a 74 van. When the weather
became very hot (100+), specially after they took the lead out of gas,
it would ping badly going up a grade. I timed it by removing the
engine shroud, loosening the distibutor clamp nut, and adjusting the
distributor until the pinging ceased. All this while driving up said
grade, the distributor being a within easy reach of my right hand.

I remember my Mopars being very moisture sensetive. Even
knowing the module ground and all, somtimes they just didn't
want to start if there was some humidity around. Or rain the
day before.
I had this happen once. I removed the distibutor cap and saw it was
literally dripping moisture. I liberally sprayed it and the points
with WD40 and reassembled. Fired right up. The WD stands for water
displacement.

nb
The secret was to carry an extra "dual ballast resistor" in the glove
box for all the Mopars with the electronic ignition. I had several
go out and it was a 10 minute or less repair job.

TDD
My spare was always bolted to the firewall. Just move the plugs from
one to the other and away you go - to the parts store to replace the
"spare"

The ballast resistors that went bad on me were the open back units.
The sealed units seemed to last forever.

TDD

wrote:
On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 21:46:02 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "LDosser"
wrote:

I had several with the 225 slant six and one with the 318. Did most of my
own work on them and all tune ups. Only thing I didn't like was setting
the
points on the slant six (exhaust header burns on fore arm)
That'd be a pretty neat trick, considering that the distributor on a
slant-six
is half-way down the block on the passenger side, and the exhaust manifold
is
all the way at the top of the engine on the driver's side. You'd think
that
someone who'd done all that work on a slant-six would know where the
distributor is.

Long arms. They say memory is the first to go ... Anyone know what the hell
I was burning myself on?

The edge of the rocker cover and the side of the cyl head. Or the oil
filter.

I ALWAYS pulled the distributor to do points on Slant Sixes. ALWAYS
set to #1 TDC first too. And I did a LOT of them.

My 170 always had the points set on a distributor machine to be sure
there was no bounce or float at 6500 RPM - always used the Blue Streak
High Performance points - the only kind that wouldn't either bounce,
float, or break the spring. (206 RWHP through the push-button
automatic at 6000 RPM ( 60+ in first, 90+ in second, and bury the
speedo in third)
It's the only car I've ever owned that I could redline in top gear.

I built a 170 slant six that came out of a 64 Valiant and dropped it in
a 65 Dart. I installed a 3/4 race cam and found the biggest one barrel
Holly carburetor I could find and that car would do 60 in first and 100
in second by holding the shifter in gear. It blew the stock muffler off
so I installed one of those Thrush mufflers. I replaced the little 13"
wheels with a set of 14 inchers and found a set of Firestone Grand Prix
radial tires and a set of heavy duty shocks. I had to beat the lip of
the front fenders out a little so the tires wouldn't rub. The car would
take a corner so hard that it snapped a front hub out of a brake drum.
At a wrecking yard, I found these huge finned drums and spindles on a
V8 Dart and installed those which solved the breakage and braking
problem. The car had a single master cylinder, ditched that and got
a dual master cylinder from a van. What I loved about my Mopars is that
I could get parts from different models and mix and match. It was a lot
of fun. It's been about four decades since I had that six cylinder
terror but I miss it more than any of them.

TDD

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Somebody wrote:

Now that Ford are
messing with the Volvo design I think that will not be the case any
more, I won't buy another Volvo designed & built since 2006.

FoMoCo wasn't too shabby in the way they cleaned up Jaguar.

Lew





And GM is cleaning up Saab ...

"Jules" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 17:33:47 -0600, HeyBub wrote:
As long as we're bragging, my 1970 Ford Custom got 9mph.

'Course it had a police interceptor engine, a calibrated speedometer up
to
140, an 8-quart crankcase, and, believe it or not, a DELCO alternator.

What good's a speedo up to 140 if it won't go beyond 10mph?

You can see how much room you've got for improvement!

"Jules" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 18:15:21 -0800, LDosser wrote:
The Tube in London, early sixties.

I believe they fitted aircon to at least some of the lines recently - I'm
yet to go back over and try it out. I used to go into London a few nights
a week and the trains were always hell in the summer months, with almost
no air circulation... (and they used to bump around and feel like they
were coming off the tracks, and the lights would sometimes all go out for
several seconds at a time... ahh, memories :-)

cheers

Jules



Ha, I'd forgotten about the lights! And the hellishly long stops with
absolutely No air circulation? Usually right under the river. This in the
days when the definition of Daring was taking off your shoes and socks and
rolling up your trouser legs while having a day at the shore. NTM three
blokes in suits, ties, knitted cardigans, and tweed caps filling potholes or
digging ditches!

HeyBub wrote:
notbob wrote:
On 2009-12-18, Lew wrote:

Still gets 25 MPG.

My old '62 Dodge Lancer with slant six and AT got 22mph on highway.


As long as we're bragging, my 1970 Ford Custom got 9mph.

'Course it had a police interceptor engine, a calibrated speedometer up to
140, an 8-quart crankcase, and, believe it or not, a DELCO alternator.
Hi,
So visiting every gas station along the way. More time spent filling up
than driving, Eh?!

Somebody wrote:
As long as we're bragging, my 1970 Ford Custom got 9mph.

'Course it had a police interceptor engine, a calibrated speedometer
up to
140, an 8-quart crankcase, and, believe it or not, a DELCO
alternator.


Police vehicle?

1970?

Delco alternator?

Very doubtful.

That was Leece-Neville business back then.

Lew

In article m,
David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 12/17/2009 5:06 AM spake thus:

Unfortunately, the price of everything made in the US includes paying
for healthcare and the tremendous waste in the system - just
fighting over work-relatedness costs billions. If we had a one-payer
system (like Medicare), with built in serious audits, we could make
cheaper good stuff. Ain't gonna happen any time soon.

...

What's needed is simple, as Sanders explained: a Medicare-for-all
system. Like the one Taiwan adopted, modeled on our own program but
expanded to all citizens.

And yes, ain't gonna happen here. The American sheeple have been too
well inoculated against "socialism".

Because under all the accumulated material wealth of the USA beats the
heart of a 3rd world country.

Last Tuesday NPR aired a snippet from a DC "tea party" protesting the
health care plan where a guy says "We fought the British over a 3
percent tea tax. We might as well bring the British back,".
Hell, at least everyone could get health care.

It's probably just my perception, but his round of national vitriol has
brought out alot of people who hate people--in the abstract, the idea of
people--that someone, somewhere, might get something they don't
deserve--and they won't stand for it anymore.

m

"ktos" wrote in message
...


My next door neighbor has 2 Chryslers. Both cars sound like bombs
exploding when they start their cars.


I can still remember back in the 50's hearing our neighbor start his '56
Dodge. It was a godawful sound very fitting for such an ugly car. Remember
the three-tone paint jobs available back then? Most every maker had
two-tone, but Dodge had to top them with three.

Over the past 48 years, I've owned many different brands of car, but never
anything from Chrysler. Nor will I ever. I still don't like their style.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

-snip-

Over the past 48 years, I've owned many different brands of car, but never
anything from Chrysler. Nor will I ever. I still don't like their style.


Oh man you missed a couple of goodies-- I had '66 Dart from 76-84 &
replaced it with a 84 Reliant from 84-'01.

I liked the Reliant so much I tried to find another Chrysler product-
but they had already dropped the K line and had nothing to offer. Ford
and Chevy have split my business since 95.['95 Taurus, '01 Impala- and
a '10 Focus]

Jim