OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

Doug wrote:
OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

The only think I've ever done was to run mine really dry at the end of the
season to make sure that there is no gas left to go bad. I usually include using
the choke or primer as it starts to die to keep it going as long as possible to
make sure it is as dry as possible.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

1) Maybe

2) Wrong use 87 octane in (my) small engines,

3) Huh?

14) Fix in another "ten years".

Bob F wrote:
Doug wrote:
OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

The only think I've ever done was to run mine really dry at the end of the
season to make sure that there is no gas left to go bad. I usually include using
the choke or primer as it starts to die to keep it going as long as possible to
make sure it is as dry as possible.


Rueful chuckle. Tried to put mine away for the winter, and found out my
fuel shutoff valve doesn't seem to shut anything off. It turns (at least
the exposed plastic tab sticking out of the plastic casting does), but
apparently whatever is supposed to block the fuel line is no longer
connected. Guess I'll have to drive it around in circles, grating more
leaves, till the tank runs dry.

--
aem sends...

On Nov 11, 5:17 pm, Doug wrote:
OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

Andy comments:

You could just crank it up once a month and run it for 5
minutes......

aemeijers wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Doug wrote:
OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep
old gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I
need a gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I
don't recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this
stuff.

The only think I've ever done was to run mine really dry at the end
of the season to make sure that there is no gas left to go bad. I
usually include using the choke or primer as it starts to die to
keep it going as long as possible to make sure it is as dry as
possible.
Rueful chuckle. Tried to put mine away for the winter, and found out
my fuel shutoff valve doesn't seem to shut anything off. It turns (at
least the exposed plastic tab sticking out of the plastic casting
does), but apparently whatever is supposed to block the fuel line is
no longer connected. Guess I'll have to drive it around in circles,
grating more leaves, till the tank runs dry.

Or just leave it running while you do other tasks in the area.

I'm always careful about how much gas I put in for the last use.

On Nov 11, 6:37�pm, Andy wrote:


� � � You could just crank it up once a month and run it for 5
minutes......

I have no less than 9 motors of both 2 and 4 stroke. Like you, I make
sure I start them at least once a month. I have never used Sta-bil,
nor anything over 87 octane unleaded. I keep my tanks full. A few of
these motors are over 15 years old.

Running them keeps everything lubed as it should be and not allowed to
dry out. I am a firm believer that leaving them sit without running
them is MUCH worse than running them. But, to each their own.

Hank ~~~get the motor running, head on down the highway

aemeijers wrote:
Bob F wrote:

Doug wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.


The only think I've ever done was to run mine really dry at the end of
the season to make sure that there is no gas left to go bad. I usually
include using the choke or primer as it starts to die to keep it going
as long as possible to make sure it is as dry as possible.


Rueful chuckle. Tried to put mine away for the winter, and found out my
fuel shutoff valve doesn't seem to shut anything off. It turns (at least
the exposed plastic tab sticking out of the plastic casting does), but
apparently whatever is supposed to block the fuel line is no longer
connected. Guess I'll have to drive it around in circles, grating more
leaves, till the tank runs dry.

--
aem sends...


A spare turkey baster will let you suck most of the gas out of small
engine fuel tanks and squirt it into a gas can which you can then drain
into your car's tank - unless you need it for a snoblower.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

Use Stabil. It must be added to the gas when the gas is still fresh.
Nothing will revive old gas and the problems it causes. Do NOT use 92
octane gas in a lawn mower! Also skip the lead substitute if your
mower is newer than 1975.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.


Use fuel without ethanol. In Canada that means Shell Gold.
Not sure about in the USA. LL100 AvGas works good too, but not easy to
get your hands on if you don't have a plane.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:43:28 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote:

aemeijers wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Doug wrote:
OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep
old gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I
need a gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I
don't recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this
stuff.

The only think I've ever done was to run mine really dry at the end
of the season to make sure that there is no gas left to go bad. I
usually include using the choke or primer as it starts to die to
keep it going as long as possible to make sure it is as dry as
possible.
Rueful chuckle. Tried to put mine away for the winter, and found out
my fuel shutoff valve doesn't seem to shut anything off. It turns (at
least the exposed plastic tab sticking out of the plastic casting
does), but apparently whatever is supposed to block the fuel line is
no longer connected. Guess I'll have to drive it around in circles,
grating more leaves, till the tank runs dry.

Or just leave it running while you do other tasks in the area.

I'm always careful about how much gas I put in for the last use.

I always store mine with a FULL tank over the winter.
The snow blower is stored dry over the summer.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:10:10 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

Use Stabil. It must be added to the gas when the gas is still fresh.
Nothing will revive old gas and the problems it causes. Do NOT use 92
octane gas in a lawn mower! Also skip the lead substitute if your
mower is newer than 1975.
What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

On Nov 11, 6:27*pm, wrote:


Use Stabil. It must be added to the gas when the gas is still fresh.
Nothing will revive old gas and the problems it causes. Do NOT use 92
octane gas in a lawn mower! Also skip the lead substitute if your
mower is newer than 1975.


I use the Sta-bil in a fresh container of gas in the Spring. Whenever
I refill that container it gets another dose of Sta-bil.


* What's wrong with 92 octane? *Just make sure it is ethanol free.


It is my understanding on smaller engines the 92 octane is a far too
rich to be used perhaps causing the engine to run too hot? And in my
area finding the ethanol-free gas is getting extremely difficult.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:27:54 -0500, wrote:

What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

What small engine book suggests a higher octane?

It will burn hot (92), damage the spark plug and maybe internal parts
like rings or pistons or warp a valve. (prolonged use)

87 octane for a small engines.

I put 87 octane in my truck. My mower can run on the same - it's not
special, nor deserves 92 octane.

Doug wrote:
OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.
Hmmm,
That is all myth to me. I took out my John Deere mower I shut down last
fall(I ran it until it quit running out of gas) fill some fresh regular
gas, it started in two pulls. I always store 2 or 4 cycle tools
after gas runs out. My chain saw when I need it feel fresh mix and it
always starts within couple pulls. Weed eater is same. I don't do any
thing special other than that.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:38:40 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Nov 11, 6:27Â*pm, wrote:


Use Stabil. It must be added to the gas when the gas is still fresh.
Nothing will revive old gas and the problems it causes. Do NOT use 92
octane gas in a lawn mower! Also skip the lead substitute if your
mower is newer than 1975.


I use the Sta-bil in a fresh container of gas in the Spring. Whenever
I refill that container it gets another dose of Sta-bil.


Â* What's wrong with 92 octane? Â*Just make sure it is ethanol free.


It is my understanding on smaller engines the 92 octane is a far too
rich to be used perhaps causing the engine to run too hot? And in my
area finding the ethanol-free gas is getting extremely difficult.

High octane fuel causing an engine to run hot is a MYTH. - and getting
ethanol free high-test is a LOT easier than finding ethanol free
regular.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:51:06 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:27:54 -0500, wrote:

What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

What small engine book suggests a higher octane?

It will burn hot (92), damage the spark plug and maybe internal parts
like rings or pistons or warp a valve. (prolonged use)

87 octane for a small engines.

I put 87 octane in my truck. My mower can run on the same - it's not
special, nor deserves 92 octane.


Are you a mechanic? A small engine mechanic? or an engine designer?

I'm not the latter, but both of the first two. High octane is not
required by most small engines, but is NOT damaging to use. The only
reason I recommend premium fuel, and in particular, in Canada, SHELL
premium, is because SHELL has gone on record in Canada as guaranteeing
there is NO ETHANOL in their premium fuel.

Years ago, with leaded fuel, there WAS an issue with using premium
leaded fuel in small engines (and air cooled engines in general) due
to lead accumulation on valves and valve stems causing valves to
stick. Sticking valves overheat. In aircraft engines (which I am also
familiar with) designed for the old 87 octane fuel (no longer made)
agressive leaning (lean of peak EGT) is required to keep lead buildup
from causing "morning sickness" - or sticking valves on startup when
using LL100, the universally available AvGas of today.

Lead buildup was the only thing that would damage spark plugs due to
running premium fuel - and again, that is no longer an issue..

The other advantage of using higher octane fuel in air-cooled engines
is you are MUCH less likely to destroy a piston due to detonation in
the event you do overheat the engine under load. Not usually an issue
with "L" head engines, but possible with today's higher compression
OHV engines.

What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

It is my understanding on smaller engines the 92 octane is a far too
rich to be used perhaps causing the engine to run too hot? And in my
area finding the ethanol-free gas is getting extremely difficult.

High octane fuel causing an engine to run hot is a MYTH. - and getting
ethanol free high-test is a LOT easier than finding ethanol free
regular.

Just FYI, it was my lawnmower service mechanics who suggested high
octane.
"Oh, we always use the premium gas!" I had never heard that before
myself.
Sounded a bit fishy.

The business about lead substitute was from an elderly neighbor, who
probably is pre-1975 in his 2-cycle universe.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:21:09 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:



What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

It is my understanding on smaller engines the 92 octane is a far too
rich to be used perhaps causing the engine to run too hot? And in my
area finding the ethanol-free gas is getting extremely difficult.

High octane fuel causing an engine to run hot is a MYTH. - and getting
ethanol free high-test is a LOT easier than finding ethanol free
regular.

Just FYI, it was my lawnmower service mechanics who suggested high
octane.
"Oh, we always use the premium gas!" I had never heard that before
myself.
Sounded a bit fishy.

The business about lead substitute was from an elderly neighbor, who
probably is pre-1975 in his 2-cycle universe.

Leaded fuel is NOT required (or even desired) in 2 stroke engines.
Lead was required to protect the valves, which the VAST majority of 2
stroke gasoline engines do not have.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 18:00:35 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Doug wrote:
OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.
Hmmm,
That is all myth to me. I took out my John Deere mower I shut down last
fall(I ran it until it quit running out of gas) fill some fresh regular
gas, it started in two pulls. I always store 2 or 4 cycle tools
after gas runs out. My chain saw when I need it feel fresh mix and it
always starts within couple pulls. Weed eater is same. I don't do any
thing special other than that.
My chain saw has a pressurized (sealed) fuel tank and even if I leave
it for 2 years it always starts on about the second or third pull.
The weed eater and leaf blower are another story!!! No sealed tanks,
and hard enough to start after 2 WEEKS of sitting.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:27:54 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:10:10 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

Use Stabil. It must be added to the gas when the gas is still fresh.
Nothing will revive old gas and the problems it causes. Do NOT use 92
octane gas in a lawn mower! Also skip the lead substitute if your
mower is newer than 1975.
What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

Lawnmowers run much better with 87 Octane than 92. High Octane gas is
only an advantage in engines designed for it. On your other point... I
don't think you can buy ethanol free 87 Octane gasoline in the U.S.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:21:06 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:51:06 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:27:54 -0500, wrote:

What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

What small engine book suggests a higher octane?

It will burn hot (92), damage the spark plug and maybe internal parts
like rings or pistons or warp a valve. (prolonged use)

87 octane for a small engines.

I put 87 octane in my truck. My mower can run on the same - it's not
special, nor deserves 92 octane.


Are you a mechanic? A small engine mechanic? or an engine designer?

I'm not the latter, but both of the first two. High octane is not
required by most small engines, but is NOT damaging to use. The only
reason I recommend premium fuel, and in particular, in Canada, SHELL
premium, is because SHELL has gone on record in Canada as guaranteeing
there is NO ETHANOL in their premium fuel.

Years ago, with leaded fuel, there WAS an issue with using premium
leaded fuel in small engines (and air cooled engines in general) due
to lead accumulation on valves and valve stems causing valves to
stick. Sticking valves overheat. In aircraft engines (which I am also
familiar with) designed for the old 87 octane fuel (no longer made)
agressive leaning (lean of peak EGT) is required to keep lead buildup
from causing "morning sickness" - or sticking valves on startup when
using LL100, the universally available AvGas of today.

Lead buildup was the only thing that would damage spark plugs due to
running premium fuel - and again, that is no longer an issue..

The other advantage of using higher octane fuel in air-cooled engines
is you are MUCH less likely to destroy a piston due to detonation in
the event you do overheat the engine under load. Not usually an issue
with "L" head engines, but possible with today's higher compression
OHV engines.

I'm not from Canuckistan, in Nevadatuckey I use 87 octane.

YMMV

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:50:25 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:27:54 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:10:10 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

Use Stabil. It must be added to the gas when the gas is still fresh.
Nothing will revive old gas and the problems it causes. Do NOT use 92
octane gas in a lawn mower! Also skip the lead substitute if your
mower is newer than 1975.
What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

Lawnmowers run much better with 87 Octane than 92. High Octane gas is
only an advantage in engines designed for it. On your other point... I
don't think you can buy ethanol free 87 Octane gasoline in the U.S.
Like I said, if you read my posting, the higher octane is not the
reason to use it - but I have NEVER noticed an engine running more
poorly on 93 octane than on 87 - and I've owned a lot of cars that
specified regular gas that DID run better on premium - some so much
better that the increased fuel economy more than paid the difference
in cost - back in the day when premium was only $0.05 a gallon more
than the low octane stuff.

And if that 87 octane in your lawn mower is 5 - 10% ethanol and has
sat for a week in 90% humidity, the ethanol free 93 will run a WHOLE
LOT better.

I had a few gallons of old av-gas (100LL - about 3 times as much lead
as the old Sunoco 260) removed from a friend's plane when he did his
annual - and the Briggs 5 horse on my old lawn mower just loved it. So
did my chain-saw. I would not use it on a regular basis because the
lead could cause issues - but the higher octane and lower vapour
pressure didn't hurt the performance of either one at all.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:30:58 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:21:09 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:



What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

It is my understanding on smaller engines the 92 octane is a far too
rich to be used perhaps causing the engine to run too hot? And in my
area finding the ethanol-free gas is getting extremely difficult.

High octane fuel causing an engine to run hot is a MYTH. - and getting
ethanol free high-test is a LOT easier than finding ethanol free
regular.

Just FYI, it was my lawnmower service mechanics who suggested high
octane.
"Oh, we always use the premium gas!" I had never heard that before
myself.
Sounded a bit fishy.

The business about lead substitute was from an elderly neighbor, who
probably is pre-1975 in his 2-cycle universe.

Leaded fuel is NOT required (or even desired) in 2 stroke engines.
Lead was required to protect the valves, which the VAST majority of 2
stroke gasoline engines do not have.

We should protect them anyhow.

Why rely on lame excuses?

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

Running them once a month would work but I'll never do that and many
people won't.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas,

ABSolutlely. It's worked great for me. I used to make sure the last
two fills had stabil, because some gas from the next to last fill up
mixes with the gas from the last fill-up and who knows what makes it
into the tube to the carburertor bowl or other carburetor parts. But
I never know when lawnmower season will end so now I just use it all
the time.

(2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and

I don't think that matters.

(3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

That certainly doesn't matter.

The only reason to use high octane is if an engine is knocking and
lawnmowers are not high enough compression to knock with low octane
gas, and in addition, I've read that knocking due to low octane
doesn't hurt the engine.

Is your lawnmower knocking? (It sounds something like knocking on a
door) If not, you have no use for either higher octane gas or lead
substitute. If you think it is, what engine do you have, brand, size,
compression ratio?

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

They probably say to drain the gas and then run it until the engine
stops. I think they should mention Stabil too. I can't help but
think that is better, because, tell me folks, when the engine stops,
there is still more tahn half a bowl of gas left in the carburetor
bowl, right?

After all, with a full carburetor bowl, the gas level in the bowl and
the related venturi tube, or whatever it's called, is just below
ovverflowing and a little bit of vacuum sucks it up, but if it drops
even less than a quarter inch, the engine won't run.

There are probably similar problems, I mean issues, with non-bowl
carburetors.

Or do they say to disassemble the bowl and drain that too? I don't
think so.

I did meet a long haul driver who told me his family mini
van ran poorly on 93 octane. Chevy Astro, I want to say. The
dealership guys suggested he go back to 87, which worked
much better.

My Dad used to run 93 octane in the old lawn mower
(Tecumseh, from 20 years or so ago) and it always worked
fine. Don't remember if he ran it dry.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:50:25 -0500, wrote:


I have NEVER noticed an engine running more
poorly on 93 octane than on 87 -

Two strokes have a reed valve, instead of the kind found in
four strokes. The four stroke valves, I'm not sure what they
are called.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


Leaded fuel is NOT required (or even desired) in 2 stroke
engines.
Lead was required to protect the valves, which the VAST
majority of 2
stroke gasoline engines do not have.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.


The better high-grade gasolines have cleaners already mixed in. Avoid
gasoline additives, Sta-Bil-treated gas is good. Keep the area
around the gas cap clean. Replace filters each year.

wrote:
On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:27:54 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:10:10 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.
Use Stabil. It must be added to the gas when the gas is still fresh.
Nothing will revive old gas and the problems it causes. Do NOT use 92
octane gas in a lawn mower! Also skip the lead substitute if your
mower is newer than 1975.
What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

Lawnmowers run much better with 87 Octane than 92. High Octane gas is
only an advantage in engines designed for it. On your other point... I
don't think you can buy ethanol free 87 Octane gasoline in the U.S.


You can and it would typically be at an independent station. But the
government increased the subsidies earlier this year so it wholesales
for less than the good stuff. I know of a local owner who has two
stations that each do 14,000+ gallons of fuel sales/day. He doesn't like
the idea of ethanol. But the government increased the amount of money
they pull out of our pockets to subsidize it so now it is artificially
cheaper than quality gasoline. The big box places immediately jumped on
it and lowered their prices. He can't afford to not do it so he is
converting both plazas to ethanol blend. Typical big box race to the bottom.

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:24:46 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.


Use fuel without ethanol. In Canada that means Shell Gold.
Not sure about in the USA. LL100 AvGas works good too, but not easy to
get your hands on if you don't have a plane.


Where can you buy gasoline without ethanol? That was a "smart fix" to
contaminate our gasoline and raise the price of corn.

On Nov 12, 7:16*am, Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

The better high-grade gasolines have cleaners already mixed in. *Avoid
gasoline additives, *Sta-Bil-treated gas is good. *Keep the area
around the gas cap clean. *Replace filters each year.

I'm surprised no one has suugested RTFM. Most manuals I've read
these days say to drain/run the engine dry prior to storage. I do
that with my snow blower. With my mower, I just add Sta-Bil to the
last two gallons of gas that I buy. That way it will be in the mower
whenever the last cut happens to be and I store it that way.

My reasoning with the mower is that it's stored for a shorter perioed,
about 4 months vs 9 for the snowblower. I've also only used regular
gas, no additives. I agree with the advice that a higher octane isn't
going to harm the engine and that if you can find alcohol free gas,
that would be good, but I don;t know where you would find it here in
the USA.

On Nov 12, 1:03*am, mm wrote:
On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

Running them once a month would work but I'll never do that and many
people won't.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas,

ABSolutlely. *It's worked great for me. * I used to make sure the last
two fills had stabil, because some gas from the next to last fill up
mixes with the gas from the last fill-up and who knows what makes it
into the tube to the carburertor bowl or other carburetor parts. *But
I never know when lawnmower season will end so now I just use it all
the time.

(2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and

I don't think that matters.

(3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

That certainly doesn't matter.

The only reason to use high octane is if an engine is knocking and
lawnmowers are not high enough compression to knock with low octane
gas, and in addition, I've read that knocking due to low octane
doesn't hurt the engine.

Is your lawnmower knocking? *(It sounds something like knocking on a
door) If not, you have no use for either higher octane gas or lead
substitute. *If you think it is, what engine do you have, brand, size,
compression ratio?



So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

They probably say to drain the gas and then run it until the engine
stops. *I think they should mention Stabil too. *I can't help but
think that is better, because, tell me folks, when the engine stops,
there is still more tahn half a bowl of gas left in the carburetor
bowl, right? *

After all, with a full carburetor bowl, the gas level in the bowl and
the related venturi tube, or whatever it's called, is just below
ovverflowing and a little bit of vacuum sucks it up, but if it drops
even less than a quarter inch, the engine won't run.

There are probably similar problems, I mean issues, with non-bowl
carburetors.

Or do they say to disassemble the bowl and drain that too? *I don't
think so.

I've never bothered with my lawnmower, but my motorcycle carburetor
has a nipple on the bottom of the bowl and a screw for draining. I do
it every winter.

So I use regular gas (ideally without ethanol), with no lead
substitute.

High octane and lead substitute are simply a waste. (I don't use
Premium in my cars.) I use fuel stabilizer if I'm going to leave the
tank with gas in it for a few weeks without running the engine.

That's easy. Thanks!

wrote:
Use Stabil. It must be added to the gas when the gas is still fresh.
Nothing will revive old gas and the problems it causes. Do NOT use 92
octane gas in a lawn mower! Also skip the lead substitute if your
mower is newer than 1975.
What's wrong with 92 octane? Just make sure it is ethanol free.

Higher Octane = higher ignition temperature. It is called for to prevent
'knocking' in high-compression engines. Unless you have a high-performance,
high-compression engine (such as a race care or Lamborghini), higher Octane
ratings mean higher prices and nothing else.

A high-octane fuel does not contain more energy than a lower-octane
competitor, it only burns slower. For small engines (lawnmowers,
leaf-blowers, marital aids), a slow-burning (i.e., 90+ Octane) fuel is not
the fuel of choice.

For your car, on your next empty, put in five gallons of 87 Octane. If the
engine doesn't knock at higher speeds or when accelerating, you can
thereafter save $2.00 or more each fill-up.

wrote:

Leaded fuel is NOT required (or even desired) in 2 stroke engines.
Lead was required to protect the valves, which the VAST majority of 2
stroke gasoline engines do not have.

Tetraethyl lead was added more to increase the octane rating of gasoline
than protection of the engine parts.

wrote:

Use fuel without ethanol. In Canada that means Shell Gold.
Not sure about in the USA. LL100 AvGas works good too, but not easy to
get your hands on if you don't have a plane.

Got a boat?

Doug wrote:
OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.

the modern engines are designed for 87 octane unleaded. Stabil in the
tank if it's gonna sit over a year is a good idea. If less than a year,
don't worry about it.

sounds like you were talking to an old timer that didn't know ****.

Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:17:12 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

OK, I've spend some bucks to get my Murray carb cleaned out, and I'm
told that I can avoid that problem (though it's taken ten years to
happen ...) in the future by using appropriate, well seasoned gas.

I'm told (1) to use Sta-Bil or equivalent in my gas, (2) I really
should use 92 octane -- the "good stuff", and (3) I was told
separately to throw in some "lead substitute" as well.

So, what's the real deal here? The stabilizer is, I know, to keep old
gas from gunking up the engine, but what about the others? I need a
gasoline recipe for low maintenance and reliable service. I don't
recall the Murray instructions saying anything about all this stuff.


The better high-grade gasolines have cleaners already mixed in. Avoid
gasoline additives, Sta-Bil-treated gas is good. Keep the area
around the gas cap clean. Replace filters each year.

In the US, the government stepped in long ago and makes sure all grades
and brands of gasoline have cleaning agents and are not supposed to need
any other store bought additives. How often do you hear about actual
clogged fuel injectors these days? I've never had a clogged fuel
injector and I use the cheapest 87 octane I can find. I don't know of
anyone in the last ten or more years that has had a clogged fuel
injector. Do you?

It is my understanding on smaller engines the 92 octane is a far too
rich to be used perhaps causing the engine to run too hot? And in my
area finding the ethanol-free gas is getting extremely difficult.

If you RTFM, on most small engines, 87 octane is the highest recommended.
But who reads those? Now, I said MOST. That does not mean ALL. If you
have any doubt, just look in that little paper manual that came with the
machine. Remember that? No. Oh, well, you can download one.

Steve

On Thu, 12 Nov 2009 15:27:53 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:




It is my understanding on smaller engines the 92 octane is a far too
rich to be used perhaps causing the engine to run too hot?

Rich? Please define what you mean by rich.


And in my
area finding the ethanol-free gas is getting extremely difficult.

If you RTFM, on most small engines, 87 octane is the highest recommended.
But who reads those? Now, I said MOST. That does not mean ALL. If you
have any doubt, just look in that little paper manual that came with the
machine. Remember that? No. Oh, well, you can download one.

Steve