I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw. I don't know the model number,
I looked all over and did not see any sort of a model number.

Here are some pictures of the saw:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...b/P1020961.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...b/P1020962.jpg

The plastic clear shield is broken. I used it to cut a 2" PVC pipe, and I
held on to the pipe on one end, as soon as it's cut, the other end, being
that it's round, rolls a little towards the blade and BAM it hits the blade
and the rotating blade broke the pipe into pieces and one piece flew 10'
into the other end of my garage, but the clear shield is also broken as a
result as you can see from the pictures.

I then searched and found this site:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...3275_3503.html

I figured I could find the part but I am not sure which model I have...it
kind of look like a "Delta 36-075 Type 1 Compound Miter Saw Parts" but it
could be Type 2 or Type 3? I am not sure. How would I determine my exact
model.

While I am at it, what is the best way to cut a 2" or 3" PVC pipe? I could
use a sawzall but a miter saw is so fast and clean, but I have trouble
keeping the other end from rolling towards the wrong spot and this could be
hazardous.

Thanks,

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
While I am at it, what is the best way to cut a 2" or 3" PVC pipe? I
could use a sawzall but a miter saw is so fast and clean, but I have
trouble keeping the other end from rolling towards the wrong spot and this
could be hazardous.

Thanks,

MC


A PVC saw, of course, Available at any goodhardware store for about $20 or
less. They have a wide blade and can easily make a square cut.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LF3D1Q

MiamiCuse wrote:

I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw. I don't know the model number,
I looked all over and did not see any sort of a model number.

Here are some pictures of the saw:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...b/P1020961.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...b/P1020962.jpg

The plastic clear shield is broken. I used it to cut a 2" PVC pipe, and I
held on to the pipe on one end, as soon as it's cut, the other end, being
that it's round, rolls a little towards the blade and BAM it hits the blade
and the rotating blade broke the pipe into pieces and one piece flew 10'
into the other end of my garage, but the clear shield is also broken as a
result as you can see from the pictures.

I then searched and found this site:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...3275_3503.html

I figured I could find the part but I am not sure which model I have...it
kind of look like a "Delta 36-075 Type 1 Compound Miter Saw Parts" but it
could be Type 2 or Type 3? I am not sure. How would I determine my exact
model.

While I am at it, what is the best way to cut a 2" or 3" PVC pipe? I could
use a sawzall but a miter saw is so fast and clean, but I have trouble
keeping the other end from rolling towards the wrong spot and this could be
hazardous.

Thanks,

MC

The best way to cut PVC pipe fast and square is with an old classic
miter box and hand saw.

On Sep 14, 10:35*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw. *I don't know the model number,
I looked all over and did not see any sort of a model number.

Here are some pictures of the saw:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...b/P1020962.jpg

The plastic clear shield is broken. *I used it to cut a 2" PVC pipe, and I
held on to the pipe on one end, as soon as it's cut, the other end, being
that it's round, rolls a little towards the blade and BAM it hits the blade
and the rotating blade broke the pipe into pieces and one piece flew 10'
into the other end of my garage, but the clear shield is also broken as a
result as you can see from the pictures.

I then searched and found this site:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...3275_3503.html

I figured I could find the part but I am not sure which model I have...it
kind of look like a "Delta 36-075 Type 1 Compound Miter Saw Parts" but it
could be Type 2 or Type 3? *I am not sure. *How would I determine my exact
model.

While I am at it, what is the best way to cut a 2" or 3" PVC pipe? *I could
use a sawzall but a miter saw is so fast and clean, but I have trouble
keeping the other end from rolling towards the wrong spot and this could be
hazardous.

Thanks,

MC

"I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw."

How "old" can it be? It still has the labels on it! g

"How would I determine my exact model."

Call Delta or one of the parts houses. They can probably tell you
about an identifying feature, like "Type 1 has a Phillips head screw
here, while the Type 2 uses a Allen screw" or something like that.

"looks like Type 1 ... it could be Type 2 or Type 3"

All three pages show a "guard" P/N 488870-00 as a "Popular Part" on
the right hand side. I'd be willing to bet it's the same guard for all
3 Types, but once again, a phone call will settle that issue.

"what is the best way to cut a 2" or 3" PVC pipe?"

What kind of blade are you using? I cut PVC on my Delta all the time
with no kickback using a 60 tooth carbide tipped finishing blade.

In article ,
"MiamiCuse" wrote:



The plastic clear shield is broken.

You're better off without the damn guard. Rip the other one off, too,
then you might actually be able to use the saw. Oh, and don't cut round
stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand. Jeez. You ain't gonna
finish your house with you in one piece if you keep doing stuff like
that.

On Sep 14, 11:31*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,

*"MiamiCuse" wrote:

The plastic clear shield is broken.

You're better off without the damn guard. Rip the other one off, too,
then you might actually be able to use the saw. Oh, and don't cut round
stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand. Jeez. You ain't gonna
finish your house with you in one piece if you keep doing stuff like
that.

Be safe:

"don't cut round stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand.
Jeez"

Be dangerous:

"You're better off without the damn guard. Rip the other one off, too"

Anybody else a bit confused?

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Sep 14, 10:35 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw. I don't know the model number,
I looked all over and did not see any sort of a model number.

Here are some pictures of the saw:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...b/P1020962.jpg

The plastic clear shield is broken. I used it to cut a 2" PVC pipe, and I
held on to the pipe on one end, as soon as it's cut, the other end, being
that it's round, rolls a little towards the blade and BAM it hits the
blade
and the rotating blade broke the pipe into pieces and one piece flew 10'
into the other end of my garage, but the clear shield is also broken as a
result as you can see from the pictures.

I then searched and found this site:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...3275_3503.html

I figured I could find the part but I am not sure which model I have...it
kind of look like a "Delta 36-075 Type 1 Compound Miter Saw Parts" but it
could be Type 2 or Type 3? I am not sure. How would I determine my exact
model.

While I am at it, what is the best way to cut a 2" or 3" PVC pipe? I could
use a sawzall but a miter saw is so fast and clean, but I have trouble
keeping the other end from rolling towards the wrong spot and this could
be
hazardous.

Thanks,

MC

"I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw."

How "old" can it be? It still has the labels on it! g

"How would I determine my exact model."

Call Delta or one of the parts houses. They can probably tell you
about an identifying feature, like "Type 1 has a Phillips head screw
here, while the Type 2 uses a Allen screw" or something like that.

"looks like Type 1 ... it could be Type 2 or Type 3"

All three pages show a "guard" P/N 488870-00 as a "Popular Part" on
the right hand side. I'd be willing to bet it's the same guard for all
3 Types, but once again, a phone call will settle that issue.

"what is the best way to cut a 2" or 3" PVC pipe?"

What kind of blade are you using? I cut PVC on my Delta all the time
with no kickback using a 60 tooth carbide tipped finishing blade.

No it is not that I have kick backs.

What happens is if I cut a PVC pipe (say 2" diameter), I hold it with my
left hand, my right hand is on the saw handle and I lower the blade to cut
the pipe. As I lower the blade to make the cut, as soon as the cut is done,
I am still holding the part with my left hand, the other left over piece on
the right side of the blade is free, and since it's rounded, it rolls in
whatever direction it wants, if it's a long piece it just stays put. If
it's a small piece it may roll to the blade as I raise the blade and it
bounces off and if it hits me it might not be such a pleasant experience.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"MiamiCuse" wrote:



The plastic clear shield is broken.

You're better off without the damn guard. Rip the other one off, too,
then you might actually be able to use the saw. Oh, and don't cut round
stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand. Jeez. You ain't gonna
finish your house with you in one piece if you keep doing stuff like
that.

What is the best way to do that? I have a hack saw but it's much slower.
Cable saw is faster but not as accurate as it tend to slide and not cut
straight all the time.

Is there a way to make quick, clean cut of pipe with a miter saw and
eliminate the "rolling" trajectory hazard? I thought about having a wood
block with a V-NOTCH that might prevent the rolling but if there is another
way?

MiamiCuse wrote:
snip
No it is not that I have kick backs.

What happens is if I cut a PVC pipe (say 2" diameter), I hold it with my
left hand, my right hand is on the saw handle and I lower the blade to cut
the pipe. As I lower the blade to make the cut, as soon as the cut is done,
I am still holding the part with my left hand, the other left over piece on
the right side of the blade is free, and since it's rounded, it rolls in
whatever direction it wants, if it's a long piece it just stays put. If
it's a small piece it may roll to the blade as I raise the blade and it
bounces off and if it hits me it might not be such a pleasant experience.




Any reason you can't either clamp it or stick a piece of scrap lumber
down the middle to keep it from flying every which way?

On Sep 14, 10:35*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw. *I don't know the model number,
I looked all over and did not see any sort of a model number.

Here are some pictures of the saw:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...b/P1020962.jpg

The plastic clear shield is broken. *I used it to cut a 2" PVC pipe, and I
held on to the pipe on one end, as soon as it's cut, the other end, being
that it's round, rolls a little towards the blade and BAM it hits the blade
and the rotating blade broke the pipe into pieces and one piece flew 10'
into the other end of my garage, but the clear shield is also broken as a
result as you can see from the pictures.

I then searched and found this site:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...3275_3503.html

I figured I could find the part but I am not sure which model I have...it
kind of look like a "Delta 36-075 Type 1 Compound Miter Saw Parts" but it
could be Type 2 or Type 3? *I am not sure. *How would I determine my exact
model.

While I am at it, what is the best way to cut a 2" or 3" PVC pipe? *I could
use a sawzall but a miter saw is so fast and clean, but I have trouble
keeping the other end from rolling towards the wrong spot and this could be
hazardous.

Thanks,

MC

Go here and you should be able to identify it.
http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/

I bought an older used DP and was easily able to order the rack,
handle and chuck key from tham at a good price.

They make you register but I don't seem to get spammed from them.

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message

Is there a way to make quick, clean cut of pipe with a miter saw and
eliminate the "rolling" trajectory hazard? I thought about having a wood
block with a V-NOTCH that might prevent the rolling but if there is
another way?


REPEAT:
Use the hand saw. Fast and accurate, not rolling kickback.

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw. I don't know the model number,
I looked all over and did not see any sort of a model number.

Here are some pictures of the saw:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...b/P1020961.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...b/P1020962.jpg

The plastic clear shield is broken. I used it to cut a 2" PVC pipe, and I
held on to the pipe on one end, as soon as it's cut, the other end, being
that it's round, rolls a little towards the blade and BAM it hits the
blade and the rotating blade broke the pipe into pieces and one piece flew
10' into the other end of my garage, but the clear shield is also broken
as a result as you can see from the pictures.

I then searched and found this site:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...3275_3503.html

I figured I could find the part but I am not sure which model I have...it
kind of look like a "Delta 36-075 Type 1 Compound Miter Saw Parts" but it
could be Type 2 or Type 3? I am not sure. How would I determine my exact
model.



The model and serial number are located on the back side of the motor
housing opposite the handle. It took me a couple of minutes to find it.

Your saw looks a model or 2 newer than mine but the guard looks the same. I
am inclined to agree with the poster who said "this part hasn't changed
much."

Don't cut PVC with this saw.

Colbyt

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message

Is there a way to make quick, clean cut of pipe with a miter saw and
eliminate the "rolling" trajectory hazard? I thought about having a wood
block with a V-NOTCH that might prevent the rolling but if there is
another way?


REPEAT:
Use the hand saw. Fast and accurate, not rolling kickback.

REPEAT:

Use a classic miter box with hand saw. I believe Stanley still makes one
that is inexpensive and will work well. This is a wood type saw blade,
much coarser tooth than a hacksaw and will cut the PVC very quickly. The
simple miter box will keep the cut square.

In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Sep 14, 11:31*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article w ydnYkpkZ4aYDPXnZ2dnUVZ ,

*"MiamiCuse" wrote:

The plastic clear shield is broken.

You're better off without the damn guard. Rip the other one off, too,
then you might actually be able to use the saw. Oh, and don't cut round
stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand. Jeez. You ain't gonna
finish your house with you in one piece if you keep doing stuff like
that.

Be safe:

"don't cut round stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand.
Jeez"

Be dangerous:

"You're better off without the damn guard. Rip the other one off, too"

Anybody else a bit confused?

What's so confusing? I have yet to meet the plastic retractable saw
guard that didn't interfere with using the saw. If you're fighting the
guard, you can't be paying attention to making the cut. You have to
*feel* the tool cutting the material, whether it's sawing, drilling,
milling, turning, whatever. Otherwise it's impossible to know whether
the speed and feed are correct, tool is sharp, lubrication is
sufficient, etc. Feeling the cut is impossible when the guard is
dragging on the material with a constantly varying amount of friction
and resistance.

Having done a bunch of HVAC work, I've cut round PVC on a
power saw. The secret is to feed the saw in VERY slowly, so
there isn't a lot of rapid cutting going on. PVC tends to
melt and burn if you cut quickly.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
Oh, and don't cut round
stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand. Jeez. You
ain't gonna
finish your house with you in one piece if you keep doing
stuff like
that.

Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Sep 14, 11:31 pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article w ydnYkpkZ4aYDPXnZ2dnUVZ ,

"MiamiCuse" wrote:

The plastic clear shield is broken.

You're better off without the damn guard. Rip the other one off, too,
then you might actually be able to use the saw. Oh, and don't cut round
stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand. Jeez. You ain't gonna
finish your house with you in one piece if you keep doing stuff like
that.

Be safe:

"don't cut round stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand.
Jeez"

Be dangerous:

"You're better off without the damn guard. Rip the other one off, too"

Anybody else a bit confused?

What's so confusing? I have yet to meet the plastic retractable saw
guard that didn't interfere with using the saw. If you're fighting the
guard, you can't be paying attention to making the cut. You have to
*feel* the tool cutting the material, whether it's sawing, drilling,
milling, turning, whatever. Otherwise it's impossible to know whether
the speed and feed are correct, tool is sharp, lubrication is
sufficient, etc. Feeling the cut is impossible when the guard is
dragging on the material with a constantly varying amount of friction
and resistance.

I quite agree.

These asinine clear "safety" guards on tools are a pathetic attempt by
some lawyer who has never used a tool in their life to make a built in
substitute for safety glasses.

My advice: Remove all these dangerous "safety" add ons from your tools
and learn to always wear your safety glasses or goggles. The end result
is much safer than trying to work around the worthless guards.

On Sep 15, 9:44*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,





*DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 14, 11:31*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article w ydnYkpkZ4aYDPXnZ2dnUVZ ,

*"MiamiCuse" wrote:

The plastic clear shield is broken.

You're better off without the damn guard. Rip the other one off, too,
then you might actually be able to use the saw. Oh, and don't cut round
stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand. Jeez. You ain't gonna
finish your house with you in one piece if you keep doing stuff like
that.

Be safe:

"don't cut round stock on *any* power saw while holding it by hand.
Jeez"

Be dangerous:

"You're better off without the damn guard. Rip the other one off, too"

Anybody else a bit confused?

What's so confusing? I have yet to meet the plastic retractable saw
guard that didn't interfere with using the saw. If you're fighting the
guard, you can't be paying attention to making the cut. You have to
*feel* the tool cutting the material, whether it's sawing, drilling,
milling, turning, whatever. Otherwise it's impossible to know whether
the speed and feed are correct, tool is sharp, lubrication is
sufficient, etc. Feeling the cut is impossible when the guard is
dragging on the material with a constantly varying amount of friction
and resistance.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I can't recall a time when I had to fight the guard on my Delta MS.

99% of the time it retracts as I pull the handle down without any
interference with the cut.

For the other 1% I just lift it up, give it a slight push and it stays
in the raised position until I lower it.

I'd rather have it present for the 99% of the cuts, especially since
it is easily dealt with for the 1%.

On Sep 14, 11:42*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...
On Sep 14, 10:35 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw. I don't know the model number,
I looked all over and did not see any sort of a model number.

Here are some pictures of the saw:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...20961.jpghttp:...

The plastic clear shield is broken. I used it to cut a 2" PVC pipe, and I
held on to the pipe on one end, as soon as it's cut, the other end, being
that it's round, rolls a little towards the blade and BAM it hits the
blade
and the rotating blade broke the pipe into pieces and one piece flew 10'
into the other end of my garage, but the clear shield is also broken as a
result as you can see from the pictures.

I then searched and found this site:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...3275_3503.html

I figured I could find the part but I am not sure which model I have...it
kind of look like a "Delta 36-075 Type 1 Compound Miter Saw Parts" but it
could be Type 2 or Type 3? I am not sure. How would I determine my exact
model.

While I am at it, what is the best way to cut a 2" or 3" PVC pipe? I could
use a sawzall but a miter saw is so fast and clean, but I have trouble
keeping the other end from rolling towards the wrong spot and this could
be
hazardous.

Thanks,

MC
"I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw."
How "old" can it be? It still has the labels on it! g
"How would I determine my exact model."
Call Delta or one of the parts houses. They can probably tell you
about an identifying feature, like "Type 1 has a Phillips head screw
here, while the Type 2 uses a Allen screw" or something like that.
"looks like Type 1 ... it could be Type 2 or Type 3"
All three pages show a "guard" P/N 488870-00 as a "Popular Part" on
the right hand side. I'd be willing to bet it's the same guard for all
3 Types, but once again, a phone call will settle that issue.
"what is the best way to cut a 2" or 3" PVC pipe?"
What kind of blade are you using? I cut PVC on my Delta all the time
with no kickback using a 60 tooth carbide tipped finishing blade.

No it is not that I have kick backs.

What happens is if I cut a PVC pipe (say 2" diameter), I hold it with my
left hand, my right hand is on the saw handle and I lower the blade to cut
the pipe. *As I lower the blade to make the cut, as soon as the cut is done,
I am still holding the part with my left hand, the other left over piece on
the right side of the blade is free, and since it's rounded, it rolls in
whatever direction it wants, if it's a long piece it just stays put. *If
it's a small piece it may roll to the blade as I raise the blade and it
bounces off and if it hits me it might not be such a pleasant experience.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"If it's a small piece it may roll to the blade as I raise the
blade and it bounces off and if it hits me it might not be such a
pleasant experience"

In the cases where you think it will be a problem (small cutoffs)
release the trigger and let the balde stop before you raise it.

A couple of suggestions.

A less aggressive blade would probably reduce the chance of catching
the loose piece with one of those big honking teeth.

It will slow you down a bit, but one of the uses for those metal
plates at the back of the cutting surface is to clamp things to...

As someone else said, if you're cutting small pieces, you can always
just wait for the blade to stop.


I also find the plastic guard annoying (especially since I burned it
cutting steel tube with an abrasive blade and it's now opaque), but I
can sure see a blade catching on something someday and shattering at
5000 rpm, so I'm leaving it on. Safety glasses won't keep my ears
attached (that guard might not either, but it may slow things down). I
use the thumb of my right hand to hold it out of the way while I line
things up or if I'm using an abrasive blade (which I understand is
much more likely to shatter, but a lot less dangerous if it does).