Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...


No experience but... http://tinyurl.com/menda7 or
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...minum+to+glass

has over 700,000 "hits"

On 7/20/2009 10:52 PM LouB spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

No experience but... http://tinyurl.com/menda7 or
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...minum+to+glass

has over 700,000 "hits"

Well, you see, Lou, the reason I posted this question here instead of
just Googling it is that I don't want to wade through those 700,000
hits. I figure I'm ahead if just one or two people here can tell me what
they have *actually used* to glue these things together.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

On Jul 21, 1:04*am, David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

Maybe this will get you a little closer. I had a problem gluing glass
to glass in kind of and arts and crafts project and finally got it to
work by etching the glass.
My sister in law was big into etching glass at the time so she did it
for me and I dont remember what she used. This ws about 25 years ago.

As far as the mirror glue goes I think its just super glue and the
trick is in the primer that comes in the kit.

Jimmie

Some of the shower door companies such as Basco use a double-sided sticky
tape for exactly that purpose. Maybe you could buy some from them as a
replacement part if you can't find something similar at the hardware store?

Lefty

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an aluminum
strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the bottom
of the door (glass) that had come off. snip

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 7/20/2009 10:52 PM LouB spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel
out of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at
the hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

No experience but... http://tinyurl.com/menda7 or
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...minum+to+glass


has over 700,000 "hits"

Well, you see, Lou, the reason I posted this question here instead of
just Googling it is that I don't want to wade through those 700,000
hits. I figure I'm ahead if just one or two people here can tell me what
they have *actually used* to glue these things together.


Makes sense to me. Now all you need is to have a few folks with actual
experience show up. BTW I have always figured that the hits that count
will be in the first 10 or so - often the first 5.
Please post back with the solution.

Lou

On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 22:04:13 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...


There are two that come to mind. Double faced foam tape and
silicon based adhesive. In both cases you will want the industrial
stuff not what you are likely to find at the local box store. You
might find something that will work at the local box store, it will
not be the cheap stuff.

"Lefty" wrote in
:

Some of the shower door companies such as Basco use a double-sided
sticky tape for exactly that purpose. Maybe you could buy some from
them as a replacement part if you can't find something similar at the
hardware store?

Lefty

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. snip




use a silicone glue,or contact cement.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

In article ,
David Nebenzahl wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

I can't recommend a specific product, because my memory doesn't go back
that far ... but generally, you could look for a *non-corrosive* RTV
silicone *adhesive* caulk. (AIUI, most silicone is corrosive to metals,
and most caulk is not formulated as much for adhesion as it is for
sealing.)

On Jul 21, 3:26*am, JIMMIE wrote:
On Jul 21, 1:04*am, David Nebenzahl wrote:





Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

Maybe this will get you a little closer. I had a problem gluing glass
to glass in kind of and arts and crafts project and finally got it to
work by etching the glass.
*My sister in law was big into etching glass at the time so she did it
for me and I dont remember what she used. This ws about 25 years ago.

As far as the mirror glue goes I think its just super glue and the
trick is in the primer that comes in the kit.

Jimmie- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I worked in a lamp glass laboratory years ago. We used hydroflouric
acid to etch glass but it's dangerous stuff.

Paul

On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 22:04:13 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Follow up to my original question. The mirror glue is great UV
activated stuff but it is also not flexible and when working with long
areas with different coefficients of expansion, it will not work.

David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

Silicon caulk. All my windows have applied "muntins"...they are attached
with silicon, have been for 14 years.

The mirror glue is basically cyanoacrylic but (generally) two part. Should
work OK if the channel and glass are in close contact, no idea how it does
with water.

If the glass/aluminumare too sloppy a fit for cyanoacrylic I think epoxy
could work. I'd still use silicon.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

Silicon caulk. All my windows have applied "muntins"...they are attached
with silicon, have been for 14 years.

The mirror glue is basically cyanoacrylic but (generally) two part.
Should work OK if the channel and glass are in close contact, no idea how
it does with water.

If the glass/aluminumare too sloppy a fit for cyanoacrylic I think epoxy
could work. I'd still use silicon.

--

dadiOH


i would make that non-acid cure silicone caulk, as the acid cure will attack
the aluminium.

you can get it at ace hardware, but not the big boxes. look for something
called crystal clear or such. if you rough up the glass with wet/dry
sandpaper it will bond a LOT better.

another possiblity is vhb tape. i used some on a glass-steel interface
outside in the phx area, with good success. it's sometimes used to hold on
car windscreens so i used it to restick the rear glass window in my vette
ragtop back on (glass/reinforced cloth interface). i used 3m 4910

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...-Family-Guide/

when you use this product, you only get one shot at it. it's REALLY hard to
remove, and you can't reposition the objects after they touch.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/ChaniArts

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
David Nebenzahl wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

I can't recommend a specific product, because my memory doesn't go back
that far ... but generally, you could look for a *non-corrosive* RTV
silicone *adhesive* caulk. (AIUI, most silicone is corrosive to metals,
and most caulk is not formulated as much for adhesion as it is for
sealing.)

Dow 744 is a good choice.

On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:59:12 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 22:04:13 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...


There are two that come to mind. Double faced foam tape and
silicon based adhesive. In both cases you will want the industrial
stuff not what you are likely to find at the local box store. You
might find something that will work at the local box store, it will
not be the cheap stuff.


The key here is to have absolutely clean surfaces on the glass and
mating metal surfaces. Scrape off all the old glue, sand if needed.
An epoxy such as JB Weld will work fine. It should be good to go in
24 hours.

Phisherman wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:59:12 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 22:04:13 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

There are two that come to mind. Double faced foam tape and
silicon based adhesive. In both cases you will want the industrial
stuff not what you are likely to find at the local box store. You
might find something that will work at the local box store, it will
not be the cheap stuff.


The key here is to have absolutely clean surfaces on the glass and
mating metal surfaces. Scrape off all the old glue, sand if needed.
An epoxy such as JB Weld will work fine. It should be good to go in
24 hours.

And we have a winner! The glass and channel has to be super-clean for
anything to hold up. Bottom of the shower door means there is years of
soap residue soaked into both parts. Clean with acetone or similar,
after scraping any residue off. Scuffing up the mating surfaces to
provide fresh surface to bind to can't hurt. I'd stop by local glass
shop and ask them, or maybe even carry the door in there. Their labor
fee may be less than the wasted material, if you have to buy a big
container for a single job. I've seen handles glued to glass doors that
held up for over a decade, so there is stuff out there that will work.

--
aem sends...

aemeijers wrote:
Phisherman wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:59:12 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 22:04:13 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel
out of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up
at the hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror
on my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really
little packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

There are two that come to mind. Double faced foam tape and
silicon based adhesive. In both cases you will want the industrial
stuff not what you are likely to find at the local box store. You
might find something that will work at the local box store, it will
not be the cheap stuff.


The key here is to have absolutely clean surfaces on the glass and
mating metal surfaces. Scrape off all the old glue, sand if needed.
An epoxy such as JB Weld will work fine. It should be good to go in
24 hours.

And we have a winner! The glass and channel has to be super-clean for
anything to hold up. Bottom of the shower door means there is years of
soap residue soaked into both parts. Clean with acetone or similar,
after scraping any residue off. Scuffing up the mating surfaces to
provide fresh surface to bind to can't hurt. I'd stop by local glass
shop and ask them, or maybe even carry the door in there. Their labor
fee may be less than the wasted material, if you have to buy a big
container for a single job. I've seen handles glued to glass doors that
held up for over a decade, so there is stuff out there that will work.

--
aem sends...

I'm thinking the black stuff that is used for glued-in windshields is
the right stuff to use. Nasty, horrid stuff and yes it does require
squeaky clean surfaces and I believe a special primer to get it to
adhere. probably made by 3M. I believe it comes in caulking tubes.

also, not adhesive at all, but glass setting tape might work - used to
hold car windows (the ones that roll up and down) into their channels.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Jul 21, 8:59*am, Pavel314 wrote:
On Jul 21, 3:26*am, JIMMIE wrote:





On Jul 21, 1:04*am, David Nebenzahl wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

Maybe this will get you a little closer. I had a problem gluing glass
to glass in kind of and arts and crafts project and finally got it to
work by etching the glass.
*My sister in law was big into etching glass at the time so she did it
for me and I dont remember what she used. This ws about 25 years ago.

As far as the mirror glue goes I think its just super glue and the
trick is in the primer that comes in the kit.

Jimmie- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I worked in a lamp glass laboratory years ago. We used hydroflouric
acid to etch glass but it's dangerous stuff.

Paul- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I thought thats what it was but wasnt sure. I also found a supermarket
type spray cleaner that would etch glass, unfortunately I found out
the hard way. I left some on a mirror too long. I think the name of it
was SENSATION.

Jimmie

On Jul 21, 1:04*am, David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/gl...ass&that=Metal

Someone mentioned 3M 4200, which is almost as strong as 5200 but sets
faster - it still takes a long time to cure and there are better
choices is you have to get the shower back into service ASAP.

On of your main concerns will be preventing mold from taking hold, and
for that reason I'd stay away from foam double-stick tape.

R

On Jul 21, 9:33*am, "charlie" wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message

...





David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

Silicon caulk. *All my windows have applied "muntins"...they are attached
with silicon, have been for 14 years.

The mirror glue is basically cyanoacrylic but (generally) two part.
Should work OK if the channel and glass are in close contact, no idea how
it does with water.

If the glass/aluminumare too sloppy a fit for cyanoacrylic I think epoxy
could work. *I'd still use silicon.

--

dadiOH

i would make that non-acid cure silicone caulk, as the acid cure will attack
the aluminium.

you can get it at ace hardware, but not the big boxes. look for something
called crystal clear or such. if you rough up the glass with wet/dry
sandpaper it will bond a LOT better.

another possiblity is vhb tape. i used some on a glass-steel interface
outside in the phx area, with good success. it's sometimes used to hold on
car windscreens so i used it to restick the rear glass window in my vette
ragtop back on (glass/reinforced cloth interface). *i used 3m 4910

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...roducts/Produc...

when you use this product, you only get one shot at it. it's REALLY hard to
remove, and you can't reposition the objects after they touch.

regards,
charliehttp://glassartists.org/ChaniArts- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Considering acidic soda pop is stored in aluminum cans for months and
years at a time, I wouldn't worry too much about it. That aluminum
oxide layer on the surface will hold up just fine.

aemeijers wrote in
:

Phisherman wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:59:12 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 22:04:13 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel
out of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up
at the hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror
on my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really
little packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

There are two that come to mind. Double faced foam tape and
silicon based adhesive. In both cases you will want the industrial
stuff not what you are likely to find at the local box store. You
might find something that will work at the local box store, it will
not be the cheap stuff.


The key here is to have absolutely clean surfaces on the glass and
mating metal surfaces. Scrape off all the old glue, sand if needed.
An epoxy such as JB Weld will work fine. It should be good to go in
24 hours.

And we have a winner! The glass and channel has to be super-clean for
anything to hold up. Bottom of the shower door means there is years of
soap residue soaked into both parts. Clean with acetone or similar,
after scraping any residue off. Scuffing up the mating surfaces to
provide fresh surface to bind to can't hurt. I'd stop by local glass
shop and ask them, or maybe even carry the door in there. Their labor
fee may be less than the wasted material, if you have to buy a big
container for a single job. I've seen handles glued to glass doors
that held up for over a decade, so there is stuff out there that will
work.

--
aem sends...


I suspect that the thermal expansion rates of aluminum and glass differ
enough that JB Weld will not hold.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Phisherman wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:59:12 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 22:04:13 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

There are two that come to mind. Double faced foam tape and
silicon based adhesive. In both cases you will want the industrial
stuff not what you are likely to find at the local box store. You
might find something that will work at the local box store, it will
not be the cheap stuff.


The key here is to have absolutely clean surfaces on the glass and
mating metal surfaces. Scrape off all the old glue, sand if needed.
An epoxy such as JB Weld will work fine. It should be good to go in
24 hours.

Usually when the coefficients of expansion are so much different you
want a little give otherwise the bond will break. RTV silicone would
work well for this application.

mike wrote:
On Jul 21, 9:33 am, "charlie" wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message

...





David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.
Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].
It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?
The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?
Or epoxy?
Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...
Silicon caulk. All my windows have applied "muntins"...they are attached
with silicon, have been for 14 years.
The mirror glue is basically cyanoacrylic but (generally) two part.
Should work OK if the channel and glass are in close contact, no idea how
it does with water.
If the glass/aluminumare too sloppy a fit for cyanoacrylic I think epoxy
could work. I'd still use silicon.
--
dadiOH
i would make that non-acid cure silicone caulk, as the acid cure will attack
the aluminium.

you can get it at ace hardware, but not the big boxes. look for something
called crystal clear or such. if you rough up the glass with wet/dry
sandpaper it will bond a LOT better.

another possiblity is vhb tape. i used some on a glass-steel interface
outside in the phx area, with good success. it's sometimes used to hold on
car windscreens so i used it to restick the rear glass window in my vette
ragtop back on (glass/reinforced cloth interface). i used 3m 4910

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...roducts/Produc...

when you use this product, you only get one shot at it. it's REALLY hard to
remove, and you can't reposition the objects after they touch.

regards,
charliehttp://glassartists.org/ChaniArts- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Considering acidic soda pop is stored in aluminum cans for months and
years at a time, I wouldn't worry too much about it. That aluminum
oxide layer on the surface will hold up just fine.

Al cans have a coating applied to their interior. Otherwise there would
be lots of gooey leaky stuff all over the shelves at the mega mart.

On Jul 21, 3:53*pm, George wrote:
mike wrote:
On Jul 21, 9:33 am, "charlie" wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message

...

David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.
Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].
It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?
The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?
Or epoxy?
Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...
Silicon caulk. *All my windows have applied "muntins"...they are attached
with silicon, have been for 14 years.
The mirror glue is basically cyanoacrylic but (generally) two part.
Should work OK if the channel and glass are in close contact, no idea how
it does with water.
If the glass/aluminumare too sloppy a fit for cyanoacrylic I think epoxy
could work. *I'd still use silicon.
--
dadiOH
i would make that non-acid cure silicone caulk, as the acid cure will attack
the aluminium.

you can get it at ace hardware, but not the big boxes. look for something
called crystal clear or such. if you rough up the glass with wet/dry
sandpaper it will bond a LOT better.

another possiblity is vhb tape. i used some on a glass-steel interface
outside in the phx area, with good success. it's sometimes used to hold on
car windscreens so i used it to restick the rear glass window in my vette
ragtop back on (glass/reinforced cloth interface). *i used 3m 4910

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...roducts/Produc....

when you use this product, you only get one shot at it. it's REALLY hard to
remove, and you can't reposition the objects after they touch.

regards,
charliehttp://glassartists.org/ChaniArts-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Considering acidic soda pop is stored in aluminum cans for months and
years at a time, I wouldn't worry too much about it. *That aluminum
oxide layer on the surface will hold up just fine.

Al cans have a coating applied to their interior. Otherwise there would
be lots of gooey leaky stuff all over the shelves at the mega mart.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The lining was a fairly recent addition. I remember the marketing
hype about how it'd improve the taste of various beverages.

"mike" wrote in message
...
On Jul 21, 9:33 am, "charlie" wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message

...





David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

Silicon caulk. All my windows have applied "muntins"...they are attached
with silicon, have been for 14 years.

The mirror glue is basically cyanoacrylic but (generally) two part.
Should work OK if the channel and glass are in close contact, no idea
how
it does with water.

If the glass/aluminumare too sloppy a fit for cyanoacrylic I think epoxy
could work. I'd still use silicon.

--

dadiOH

i would make that non-acid cure silicone caulk, as the acid cure will
attack
the aluminium.

you can get it at ace hardware, but not the big boxes. look for something
called crystal clear or such. if you rough up the glass with wet/dry
sandpaper it will bond a LOT better.

another possiblity is vhb tape. i used some on a glass-steel interface
outside in the phx area, with good success. it's sometimes used to hold on
car windscreens so i used it to restick the rear glass window in my vette
ragtop back on (glass/reinforced cloth interface). i used 3m 4910

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...roducts/Produc...

when you use this product, you only get one shot at it. it's REALLY hard
to
remove, and you can't reposition the objects after they touch.

regards,
charliehttp://glassartists.org/ChaniArts- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Considering acidic soda pop is stored in aluminum cans for months and
years at a time, I wouldn't worry too much about it. That aluminum
oxide layer on the surface will hold up just fine.

--
obviously you've never stored soda in cans in your pantry for 6 months to a
year. i can tell you from bitter experience, that yes, they do leak over
time, lose their carbonation, and occasionally when we find a can a couple
years old in the back behind everything, it may even be empty and still be
factory sealed, and a really bad gooey mess underneath it.

it only takes a pinhole in the coating for this to occur.

regards,
charlie

On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 15:24:23 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

On Jul 21, 1:04*am, David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/gl...ass&that=Metal

Someone mentioned 3M 4200, which is almost as strong as 5200 but sets
faster - it still takes a long time to cure and there are better
choices is you have to get the shower back into service ASAP.

On of your main concerns will be preventing mold from taking hold, and
for that reason I'd stay away from foam double-stick tape.

R

I suggested 3M 4200. 3M 5200 would be a bad choice. 3M 4200 would be
perfect, as this is precisely the sort of thing it was designed to do.
There is a fast curing version of 4200 called "Fast Cure 4200"

Tack free in 1-2 hours and fully cured in 24.

On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 15:39:01 -0700 (PDT), mike
wrote:

On Jul 21, 9:33*am, "charlie" wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message

...





David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?

Or epoxy?

Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...

Silicon caulk. *All my windows have applied "muntins"...they are attached
with silicon, have been for 14 years.

The mirror glue is basically cyanoacrylic but (generally) two part.
Should work OK if the channel and glass are in close contact, no idea how
it does with water.

If the glass/aluminumare too sloppy a fit for cyanoacrylic I think epoxy
could work. *I'd still use silicon.

--

dadiOH

i would make that non-acid cure silicone caulk, as the acid cure will attack
the aluminium.

you can get it at ace hardware, but not the big boxes. look for something
called crystal clear or such. if you rough up the glass with wet/dry
sandpaper it will bond a LOT better.

another possiblity is vhb tape. i used some on a glass-steel interface
outside in the phx area, with good success. it's sometimes used to hold on
car windscreens so i used it to restick the rear glass window in my vette
ragtop back on (glass/reinforced cloth interface). *i used 3m 4910

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...roducts/Produc...

when you use this product, you only get one shot at it. it's REALLY hard to
remove, and you can't reposition the objects after they touch.

regards,
charliehttp://glassartists.org/ChaniArts- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Considering acidic soda pop is stored in aluminum cans for months and
years at a time, I wouldn't worry too much about it. That aluminum
oxide layer on the surface will hold up just fine.

Soda cans are lined with plastic.

mike wrote:
On Jul 21, 3:53 pm, George wrote:
mike wrote:
On Jul 21, 9:33 am, "charlie" wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
David Nebenzahl wrote:
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an
aluminum strip to glass.
Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the
bottom of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out
of aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].
It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?
The stuff I'm thinking about is that special goop used to stick
rear-view mirrors to windshields. Amazing ****. I put such a mirror on
my van, and the stuff sticks like crazy. It comes in really little
packages; wonder if you can get a bigger tube of it?
Or epoxy?
Actual experience with your suggestion gets you extra points ...
Silicon caulk. All my windows have applied "muntins"...they are attached
with silicon, have been for 14 years.
The mirror glue is basically cyanoacrylic but (generally) two part.
Should work OK if the channel and glass are in close contact, no idea how
it does with water.
If the glass/aluminumare too sloppy a fit for cyanoacrylic I think epoxy
could work. I'd still use silicon.
--
dadiOH
i would make that non-acid cure silicone caulk, as the acid cure will attack
the aluminium.
you can get it at ace hardware, but not the big boxes. look for something
called crystal clear or such. if you rough up the glass with wet/dry
sandpaper it will bond a LOT better.
another possiblity is vhb tape. i used some on a glass-steel interface
outside in the phx area, with good success. it's sometimes used to hold on
car windscreens so i used it to restick the rear glass window in my vette
ragtop back on (glass/reinforced cloth interface). i used 3m 4910
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...roducts/Produc...
when you use this product, you only get one shot at it. it's REALLY hard to
remove, and you can't reposition the objects after they touch.
regards,
charliehttp://glassartists.org/ChaniArts-Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Considering acidic soda pop is stored in aluminum cans for months and
years at a time, I wouldn't worry too much about it. That aluminum
oxide layer on the surface will hold up just fine.
Al cans have a coating applied to their interior. Otherwise there would
be lots of gooey leaky stuff all over the shelves at the mega mart.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The lining was a fairly recent addition. I remember the marketing
hype about how it'd improve the taste of various beverages.

Actually they were lining them all along. I worked in a business that
manufactured precision measurement systems used in can plants among
others. The marketing folks decided it was time to make that a "new and
improved" pitch.

On Jul 21, 7:57*pm, wrote:
RicodJour wrote:

Someone mentioned 3M 4200, which is almost as strong as 5200 but sets
faster - it still takes a long time to cure and there are better
choices is you have to get the shower back into service ASAP.

I suggested 3M 4200. 3M 5200 would be a bad choice. 3M 4200 would be
perfect, as this is precisely the sort of thing it was designed to do.
There is a fast curing version of 4200 called "Fast Cure 4200"

Tack free in 1-2 hours and fully cured in 24.

I just checked the 3M web site, and they mention 24-48 hours for a
full cure in one place and 24 hours in another for the Fast Cure
4200. I didn't know that they now made a Fast Cure 5200 as well -
that is listed as a full cure in 24 hours as well. Either one would
be an excellent choice. Thanks for the correction.

R

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
Got a question regarding an upcoming repair job: how to adhere an aluminum
strip to glass.

Client has a glass shower that had a metal channel attached to the bottom
of the door (glass) that had come off. I made a new channel out of
aluminum angle and glued it on using [something I picked up at the
hardware sto don't remember exactly what].

It didn't hold. I need to reglue the strip. What do y'all suggest?

3M Weatherstrip adhesive might work. Any auto parts store. Think of it as
contact cement for cars.

On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 17:29:16 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

On Jul 21, 7:57*pm, wrote:
RicodJour wrote:

Someone mentioned 3M 4200, which is almost as strong as 5200 but sets
faster - it still takes a long time to cure and there are better
choices is you have to get the shower back into service ASAP.

I suggested 3M 4200. 3M 5200 would be a bad choice. 3M 4200 would be
perfect, as this is precisely the sort of thing it was designed to do.
There is a fast curing version of 4200 called "Fast Cure 4200"

Tack free in 1-2 hours and fully cured in 24.

I just checked the 3M web site, and they mention 24-48 hours for a
full cure in one place and 24 hours in another for the Fast Cure
4200. I didn't know that they now made a Fast Cure 5200 as well -
that is listed as a full cure in 24 hours as well. Either one would
be an excellent choice. Thanks for the correction.

R

5200 would be a poor choice. If you ever had to replace that trim
again, you would have to buy a whole new door. 5200 is only for things
that will NEVER need to be taken apart. Never is a long time.

As to not hijack this thread, if the OP was concerned about acidic
caulking effects on aluminum, he could pour vinegar in some aluminum
foil set in a bowl for a few hours or even overnight to see what
happens.

Aluminum foil has always held up to such treatment for me without
damage.

On Jul 22, 6:31*am, wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 17:29:16 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour



wrote:
On Jul 21, 7:57*pm, wrote:
RicodJour wrote:

Someone mentioned 3M 4200, which is almost as strong as 5200 but sets
faster - it still takes a long time to cure and there are better
choices is you have to get the shower back into service ASAP.

I suggested 3M 4200. 3M 5200 would be a bad choice. 3M 4200 would be
perfect, as this is precisely the sort of thing it was designed to do.
There is a fast curing version of 4200 called "Fast Cure 4200"

Tack free in 1-2 hours and fully cured in 24.

I just checked the 3M web site, and they mention 24-48 hours for a
full cure in one place and 24 hours in another for the Fast Cure
4200. *I didn't know that they now made a Fast Cure 5200 as well -
that is listed as a full cure in 24 hours as well. *Either one would
be an excellent choice. *Thanks for the correction.


5200 would be a poor choice. If you ever had to replace that trim
again, you would have to buy a whole new door. 5200 is only for things
that will NEVER need to be taken apart. Never is a long time.

NEVER...? When the literature refers to a permanent bond, they're
talking about a permanent bond with the typical marine materials such
as gelcoat and fiberglass. 5200 (if you use the recommended metal
primer) is approximately twice the strength of 4200, which can present
problems with delamination of gelcoat or fiberglass. Neither the
glass door nor aluminum trim would delaminate so it would not be a
problem. Sure it would be a bitch to get it off, but 4200 would still
present problems in removal.

As I said in an earlier post, mildew is a concern in this
application. 3M Marine Grade Silicone Sealant is mildew resistant,
has the weakest bond if removal is a concern (still plenty strong
enough for this application), the fastest tack time, is non-sag and
would be a better choice than either 4200 or 5200.

R

On Jul 22, 12:13*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:23:49 -0700 (PDT), mike

wrote:
As to not hijack this thread, if the OP was concerned about acidic
caulking effects on aluminum, he could pour vinegar in some aluminum
foil set in a bowl for a few hours or even overnight to see what
happens.

Aluminum *foil has always held up to such treatment for me without
damage.

The OP may want the job to last longer than that.

Ive seen the acidic type eat through #18 copper wire. Mind you that it
took 3 or 4 years.

Jimmie

On Jul 22, 9:13*am, wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:23:49 -0700 (PDT), mike

wrote:
As to not hijack this thread, if the OP was concerned about acidic
caulking effects on aluminum, he could pour vinegar in some aluminum
foil set in a bowl for a few hours or even overnight to see what
happens.

Aluminum *foil has always held up to such treatment for me without
damage.

The OP may want the job to last longer than that.

How long do you think the curing by-products hang around? Futher,
aluminum tanks are used for acid transport, including organic acids
like acetic acid:

http://tinyurl.com/kmcqkl

You may have to scroll down a few lines after you click the link.

In article
,
mike wrote:

On Jul 22, 9:13*am, wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:23:49 -0700 (PDT), mike

wrote:
As to not hijack this thread, if the OP was concerned about acidic
caulking effects on aluminum, he could pour vinegar in some aluminum
foil set in a bowl for a few hours or even overnight to see what
happens.

Aluminum *foil has always held up to such treatment for me without
damage.

The OP may want the job to last longer than that.

How long do you think the curing by-products hang around? Futher,
aluminum tanks are used for acid transport, including organic acids
like acetic acid:

http://tinyurl.com/kmcqkl

You may have to scroll down a few lines after you click the link.

Are you the same Mike who didn't realize that aluminum beverage cans
are, and always have been, lined with plastic? Standard silicone *will*
eat metal, and non-corrosive formulas have been around for many years to
alleviate the problem.

Stubbornly defending your ignorance won't Win Friends and Influence
People on usenet. Be willing to learn.

On Jul 22, 10:26*am, wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:19:02 -0700 (PDT), mike





wrote:
On Jul 22, 9:13*am, wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:23:49 -0700 (PDT), mike

wrote:
As to not hijack this thread, if the OP was concerned about acidic
caulking effects on aluminum, he could pour vinegar in some aluminum
foil set in a bowl for a few hours or even overnight to see what
happens.

Aluminum *foil has always held up to such treatment for me without
damage.

The OP may want the job to last longer than that.

How long do you think the curing by-products hang around? *Futher,
aluminum tanks are used for acid transport, including organic acids
like acetic acid:

http://tinyurl.com/kmcqkl

You may have to scroll down a few lines after you click the link.

How many boats have you restored, repaired or built from scratch?

Just curious.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How is that relevant? Further, it appears this tangent is kinda moot,
since the most common silicone sealant (GE Silicone II) doesn't
release acid during cu

http://tinyurl.com/mc95mj

"Product releases methanol and ammonia during curing"

On Jul 22, 10:40*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,





*mike wrote:
On Jul 22, 9:13*am, wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:23:49 -0700 (PDT), mike

wrote:
As to not hijack this thread, if the OP was concerned about acidic
caulking effects on aluminum, he could pour vinegar in some aluminum
foil set in a bowl for a few hours or even overnight to see what
happens.

Aluminum *foil has always held up to such treatment for me without
damage.

The OP may want the job to last longer than that.

How long do you think the curing by-products hang around? *Futher,
aluminum tanks are used for acid transport, including organic acids
like acetic acid:

http://tinyurl.com/kmcqkl

You may have to scroll down a few lines after you click the link.

Are you the same Mike who didn't realize that aluminum beverage cans
are, and always have been, lined with plastic? Standard silicone *will*
eat metal, and non-corrosive formulas have been around for many years to
alleviate the problem.

Stubbornly defending your ignorance won't Win Friends and Influence
People on usenet. Be willing to learn.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Are you SURE about that? Are you the same SmittyTwo who didn't
realize that acetic acid is transported in aluminum tanks? Anyway, I
know you're a troll who always gets in 500 post marathons with
people. I'll not be feeding you anymore.

I know, I'm an ignorant fool for believing the manufacturer when it
says it's recommended for aluminum, among other materials.

http://www.doityourself.com/invt/u510461

Go troll elsewhere.

On Jul 22, 11:22*am, wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:40:55 -0700 (PDT), mike





wrote:
On Jul 22, 10:26*am, wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:19:02 -0700 (PDT), mike

wrote:
On Jul 22, 9:13*am, wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:23:49 -0700 (PDT), mike

wrote:
As to not hijack this thread, if the OP was concerned about acidic
caulking effects on aluminum, he could pour vinegar in some aluminum
foil set in a bowl for a few hours or even overnight to see what
happens.

Aluminum *foil has always held up to such treatment for me without
damage.

The OP may want the job to last longer than that.

How long do you think the curing by-products hang around? *Futher,
aluminum tanks are used for acid transport, including organic acids
like acetic acid:

http://tinyurl.com/kmcqkl

You may have to scroll down a few lines after you click the link.

How many boats have you restored, repaired or built from scratch?

Just curious.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How is that relevant? *Further, it appears this tangent is kinda moot,
since the most common silicone sealant *(GE Silicone II) doesn't
release acid during cu

http://tinyurl.com/mc95mj

"Product releases methanol and ammonia during curing"

Silicone sealant is a lousy adhesive. The OP is looking for an
adhesive/sealant, not just a sealant. He has already tried something
that didn't hold well in this application. It is for a "client", so
I'm basing my advice on the theory that he wants to only do this once,
and get it right.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Lousy? It may not be equivalent to welding, but for goodness sakes,
they mount undermounted sinks with silicone sealant (sometimes
marketed as an adhesive).
It may well be enough for application in mind. But that's the OP's
call.

On Jul 22, 2:22*pm, wrote:

Silicone sealant is a lousy adhesive. The OP is looking for an
adhesive/sealant, not just a sealant. He has already tried something
that didn't hold well in this application. It is for a "client", so
I'm basing my advice on the theory that he wants to only do this once,
and get it right.

Wait a minute - just a second ago you were arguing that 5200 was a bad
choice as it was permanent. Arguments go a lot smoother if you pick a
side and stick to it!

R