wrote:

Like I said, this is thick glass, and the crack is clean. I
just need to remove the wooden strip and lift the piece a little
to glue it, then stuff putty around it before replacing the
strip.

No-brainer: clear silicone adhesive/caulking.


--
So if you meet me, have some courtesy,
have some sympathy, and some taste.
Use all your well-learned politesse,
or I'll lay your soul to waste.

wrote in message
...
I have an exterior door with a rather large window in it. The glass
is 1/4" thick. ... and just want to patch
what I have until next spring or so. The glass is not shattered, it
just has a crack across one corner, Thanks for all advice

Mark

I'd try 5 min or regular (24hr) epoxy...depending how long you can go
without the glass on the door. I'm currently using regular epoxy for a
mirror/mosaic project and it has no problem sticking glass to glass.

Go to an automotive supply store and get windshield adhesive. That is the
stuff they use to hold in car windshields. That might do for a short time fix
until you can replace the door.

On a side note, is replacing the door REALLY less expensive than replacing the
glass??

Good luck.

wrote:
I have an exterior door with a rather large window in it. The glass
is 1/4" thick. I just priced new glass and was rather shocked at the
price. I was told by the glass shop that I'd be best using
plexiglass, but that is even more costly, unless I go to the thin
stuff, and that would require modifying the trim around the window. I
decided to just replace the door, since it is rather weathered anyhow,
and I had to patch the bottom of the frame a few years ago, because it
was rotting. Besides, I'd rather have a solid door without a window.

Use two or more layers of the thin glass?

On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 03:59:16 -0500, wrote:

The glass is not shattered, it
just has a crack across one corner, and that section has settled into
the frame, so the crack is open about 1/16".

What about increasing the size of the wood trim so that it will cover
the crack? 1/4 inch trim should cover the 1/16 crack. Paint to match
the rest of the door. Caulk first before adding the trim.

I agree with Rileyesi. Use glass glue to glue glass.

I'm not understanding how big your crack is from what you wrote. Someone
else suggested adding some additional trim to cover the crack. If that is
an option then just some kind of sealant would be all you need.

Aside from that I supposed a good grade of exterior plywood and matching
paint would cost more than replacing the glass...


Rileyesi wrote in message
...
Go to an automotive supply store and get windshield adhesive.

If replacing the glass is not out of the question, shop around. I was quoted
$75 - $175 for a beveled table top replacement. I tried the $75 one. The
beveling and edge finish was first rate. Better is not always more costly.

John


wrote in message
...
I have an exterior door with a rather large window in it. The glass
is 1/4" thick. I just priced new glass and was rather shocked at the
price. I was told by the glass shop that I'd be best using
plexiglass, but that is even more costly, unless I go to the thin
stuff, and that would require modifying the trim around the window. I
decided to just replace the door, since it is rather weathered anyhow,
and I had to patch the bottom of the frame a few years ago, because it
was rotting. Besides, I'd rather have a solid door without a window.

Anyhow, at the moment I cant afford a new door, and just want to patch
what I have until next spring or so. The glass is not shattered, it
just has a crack across one corner, and that section has settled into
the frame, so the crack is open about 1/16".

My options are to either glue the glass, and add some putty or caulk
around it, or replace it with 1/4" plywood. I thought I'd first try
to glue the glass, which seems to be the easiest and cheapest for now.
The main object is to keep out wind and water.

My question is what to use to glue it. It should be clear, so that
leaves out JB Weld, which I am sure would work, since it seems to glue
anything. The other options I can see are superglue, which is
something I have never seen to work on much of anything, or clear
silicone caulk, which seems the most likely thing to work.

Before doing anything, I thought I'd see if anyone has any other ideas
or suggestions.

Like I said, this is thick glass, and the crack is clean. I just need
to remove the wooden strip and lift the piece a little to glue it,
then stuff putty around it before replacing the strip.

Thanks for all advice

Mark

Rileyesi wrote:

Go to an automotive supply store and get windshield adhesive. That is the
stuff they use to hold in car windshields. That might do for a short time fix
until you can replace the door.

On a side note, is replacing the door REALLY less expensive than replacing the
glass??

Good luck.


Actually you should get the stuff that hardens and is used to fill in
the windshield cracks and bulls eyes, not the rubbery stuff to stop
water leaks.

wrote in message
...
(snip)
Before doing anything, I thought I'd see if anyone has any other ideas
or suggestions.

Like I said, this is thick glass, and the crack is clean. I just need
to remove the wooden strip and lift the piece a little to glue it,
then stuff putty around it before replacing the strip.

Thanks for all advice

Pretty much nothing will glue glass. The shock loads when door is swung
closed are suprisingly high. If this is just to get through the winter, use
clear plastic tape on both side of the crack. The clear stuff used with the
shrink-wrap window kits should work well.

aem sends...

The glass is not shattered, it
just has a crack across one corner, and that section has settled into
the frame, so the crack is open about 1/16".


My question is what to use to glue it. It should be clear, so that
leaves out JB Weld, which I am sure would work, since it seems to glue
anything. The other options I can see are superglue, which is
something I have never seen to work on much of anything, or clear
silicone caulk, which seems the most likely thing to work.

Before doing anything, I thought I'd see if anyone has any other ideas
or suggestions.

Like I said, this is thick glass, and the crack is clean. I just need
to remove the wooden strip and lift the piece a little to glue it,
then stuff putty around it before replacing the strip.

Silicone is indeed the best choice. I would use a flexible filler, since the
point is to seal the tiny crack, not mend the glass. Clear silicone
adhesive, squirted in with a fairly small-diameter nozzle cut. Then
immediately smoothe both sides at once (to keep glue from alternately
squeezing out one side, then other) with a safety razor edge or putty knives
held at low angle to glass. This will compress the glue and slightly
overfill the crack. Let dry completely overnight, then razor blade off the
excess, running the blade in direction of the crack orientation.. Any
hardening glue is pointless, as you are pulling the glass in the Spring,
anyway. Epoxy and super glues generally work best when pieces are in direct
contact, and work poorly as fillers. Epoxy also runs, unlike a gel like
silicone.

"I-zheet M'drurz" wrote in message ...
wrote:

Like I said, this is thick glass, and the crack is clean. I
just need to remove the wooden strip and lift the piece a little
to glue it, then stuff putty around it before replacing the
strip.

Do not use clear silicone sealer or regular epoxy. Epoxy will stick
but will give a highly visible repair unless it's a special type made
just for glass. However there are one-part glass adhesives, available
from glazers and pet shops (used for fixing aquariums, and one was
called Aqua-glass.

"ameijers" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
(snip)
Before doing anything, I thought I'd see if anyone has any other ideas
or suggestions.

Like I said, this is thick glass, and the crack is clean. I just need
to remove the wooden strip and lift the piece a little to glue it,
then stuff putty around it before replacing the strip.

Thanks for all advice

Pretty much nothing will glue glass. The shock loads when door is swung
closed are suprisingly high. If this is just to get through the winter,
use
clear plastic tape on both side of the crack. The clear stuff used with
the
shrink-wrap window kits should work well.

aem sends...

there are plenty of things that will glue glass to glass such that you'd
break the glass before the bond let go, like uv cured resins and glues for
instance.

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in
:



Rileyesi wrote:

Go to an automotive supply store and get windshield adhesive. That
is the stuff they use to hold in car windshields. That might do for
a short time fix until you can replace the door.

On a side note, is replacing the door REALLY less expensive than
replacing the glass??

Good luck.


Actually you should get the stuff that hardens and is used to fill in
the windshield cracks and bulls eyes, not the rubbery stuff to stop
water leaks.


An optically clear epoxy.Edmunds Scientific (www.edsci.com)carries
them,although not low cost. Some are UV cured.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in message
...

"ameijers" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
(snip)
Before doing anything, I thought I'd see if anyone has any other ideas
or suggestions.

Like I said, this is thick glass, and the crack is clean. I just need
to remove the wooden strip and lift the piece a little to glue it,
then stuff putty around it before replacing the strip.

Thanks for all advice

Pretty much nothing will glue glass. The shock loads when door is swung
closed are suprisingly high. If this is just to get through the winter,
use
clear plastic tape on both side of the crack. The clear stuff used with
the
shrink-wrap window kits should work well.

aem sends...

there are plenty of things that will glue glass to glass such that you'd
break the glass before the bond let go, like uv cured resins and glues for
instance.

Oh, I suppose you're correct, but I honestly wasn't thinking about exotics
like that, just stuff Joe Public can easily and cheaply buy. By the time you
buy the fancy glue and the UV light to zap the joint, may as well have
window company replace the pane. OP was looking for a cheap work-around till
budget allowed a proper repair. I stand by the tape suggestion- it will be
as weatherproof as, and probably as invisible as, any cheap glue solution.

aem sends...

Jim Yanik wrote:

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in
:



Rileyesi wrote:

Go to an automotive supply store and get windshield adhesive. That
is the stuff they use to hold in car windshields. That might do for
a short time fix until you can replace the door.

On a side note, is replacing the door REALLY less expensive than
replacing the glass??

Good luck.


Actually you should get the stuff that hardens and is used to fill in
the windshield cracks and bulls eyes, not the rubbery stuff to stop
water leaks.


An optically clear epoxy.Edmunds Scientific (www.edsci.com)carries
them,although not low cost. Some are UV cured.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

The ones used professionally to fill bulls eyes and windshield cracks
are UV cured. Makes it really simple to use.

clipped

Like I said, this is thick glass, and the crack is clean. I just need
to remove the wooden strip and lift the piece a little to glue it,
then stuff putty around it before replacing the strip.

Thanks for all advice

Mark

If you are replacing the door in the spring, it's not worth a lot of
trouble to "repair". I would lay on some clear silicone to fill the
crack and let it go at that. Use one of those plastic tools to smoothe
the surface, so's you don't slice a finger on the broken edge. If any
silicone remains on the glass surface after it dries, it can be shaved
off with a razor blade scraper.

We just installed a patterned glass as a backsplash behind our cooktop.
It has a seam, which is nearly invisible because of the pattern of the
glass. The edges were ground with a very slight bevel and the clear
silicone seals it almost invisibly. On your door it would show, but why
do a lot of work for such a short time?

There may be a lot of broken glass around here soon - doing the
hurricane thing, again. If Hurricane Frances hits Palm Beach, I hope it
blows all the touch screen voting machines to Tallahassee )

"ameijers" wrote in
:


"Charles Spitzer" wrote in
message ...

"ameijers" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
(snip)
Before doing anything, I thought I'd see if anyone has any other
ideas or suggestions.

Like I said, this is thick glass, and the crack is clean. I just
need to remove the wooden strip and lift the piece a little to
glue it, then stuff putty around it before replacing the strip.

Thanks for all advice

Pretty much nothing will glue glass. The shock loads when door is
swung closed are suprisingly high. If this is just to get through
the winter,
use
clear plastic tape on both side of the crack. The clear stuff used
with
the
shrink-wrap window kits should work well.

aem sends...

there are plenty of things that will glue glass to glass such that
you'd break the glass before the bond let go, like uv cured resins
and glues for instance.

Oh, I suppose you're correct, but I honestly wasn't thinking about
exotics like that, just stuff Joe Public can easily and cheaply buy.
By the time you buy the fancy glue and the UV light to zap the joint,
may as well have window company replace the pane. OP was looking for a
cheap work-around till budget allowed a proper repair. I stand by the
tape suggestion- it will be as weatherproof as, and probably as
invisible as, any cheap glue solution.

aem sends...


How often do 'temporary' repairs becomes permanent? ;-)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

"ameijers" wrote in message
...

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in message
...

"ameijers" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
(snip)
Before doing anything, I thought I'd see if anyone has any other
ideas
or suggestions.

Like I said, this is thick glass, and the crack is clean. I just
need
to remove the wooden strip and lift the piece a little to glue it,
then stuff putty around it before replacing the strip.

Thanks for all advice

Pretty much nothing will glue glass. The shock loads when door is
swung
closed are suprisingly high. If this is just to get through the
winter,
use
clear plastic tape on both side of the crack. The clear stuff used
with
the
shrink-wrap window kits should work well.

aem sends...

there are plenty of things that will glue glass to glass such that you'd
break the glass before the bond let go, like uv cured resins and glues
for
instance.

Oh, I suppose you're correct, but I honestly wasn't thinking about exotics
like that, just stuff Joe Public can easily and cheaply buy. By the time
you
buy the fancy glue and the UV light to zap the joint, may as well have
window company replace the pane. OP was looking for a cheap work-around
till
budget allowed a proper repair. I stand by the tape suggestion- it will be
as weatherproof as, and probably as invisible as, any cheap glue solution.

aem sends...

you can get uv glue at home depot, and i use the sun for curing. since that
entails removing the glass from the door, i'd say that was a good first step
to replacement though.

i'd probably use clear packing tape or silicone instead myself too.