Living in east central CT I have both a deep well and a septic system.
Many decades ago I had my water analyzed which showed considerable
levels of iron in it. As a result I had installed an "exchange tank"
that each month has to have a vendor come in and exchange the tank
with another containing new chemicals. I am assuming the chemicals
might be a salt based substance (just a guess).

The cost of this service has gone up and up over the past decades to
the point where I am looking for an alternative that "might" be less
dependent on an outside vendor and hopefully less expensive to
support. BTW - I also have a whole house odor filter that I replace
every couple of months.

From those of you with similar water issues, what have you done to
solve the iron and/or odor problems on your systems? Remember, I
believe I'm not supposed to backwash a treatment/softener system into
the septic (so I'm told).

All suggestions/recommendations/ideas GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

bobmct wrote:
Living in east central CT I have both a deep well and a septic system.
Many decades ago I had my water analyzed which showed considerable
levels of iron in it. As a result I had installed an "exchange tank"
that each month has to have a vendor come in and exchange the tank
with another containing new chemicals. I am assuming the chemicals
might be a salt based substance (just a guess).

The cost of this service has gone up and up over the past decades to
the point where I am looking for an alternative that "might" be less
dependent on an outside vendor and hopefully less expensive to
support. BTW - I also have a whole house odor filter that I replace
every couple of months.

From those of you with similar water issues, what have you done to
solve the iron and/or odor problems on your systems? Remember, I
believe I'm not supposed to backwash a treatment/softener system into
the septic (so I'm told).

All suggestions/recommendations/ideas GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

I have a deep well in Illinois that produces more iron than a small mine.
For fifty years, a regular water softener - self serviced - with addition
of block or pellet salt, and the ubiquitous rust filter with changeable
filters is all that it takes.
The hot water still stinks.
Also, only the toilet goes into the septic tank and field.
All other waste goes into a home made grease trap and then into
an entirely separate field of drain tiles.
My Pop figured out that setup sixty years ago and it has proven
to be a wise way to go.
That said, everyone else in the area runs the softener backwash
right down the laundry sink drain - or what ever, and directly
into their septic tanks.
No problems that I've heard of, but it does dump a lot of excess
water into the fields. especially in wet weather.

Dorothy

"bobmct" wrote in message
...
Living in east central CT I have both a deep well and a septic system.
Many decades ago I had my water analyzed which showed considerable
levels of iron in it. As a result I had installed an "exchange tank"
that each month has to have a vendor come in and exchange the tank
with another containing new chemicals. I am assuming the chemicals
might be a salt based substance (just a guess).

The cost of this service has gone up and up over the past decades to
the point where I am looking for an alternative that "might" be less
dependent on an outside vendor and hopefully less expensive to
support. BTW - I also have a whole house odor filter that I replace
every couple of months.

From those of you with similar water issues, what have you done to
solve the iron and/or odor problems on your systems? Remember, I
believe I'm not supposed to backwash a treatment/softener system into
the septic (so I'm told).

All suggestions/recommendations/ideas GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

When I was doing appliance repair at farm homes that had a lot of iron in
their water, I would find dishwashers that were turned dark brown inside. A
cycle run through with a couple ounces of Oxalic acid crystals would bring
back the white interior. Then run one more cycle with the electric
dishwashing detergent. You can find this acid crystals at some hardware or
garden centers. ww

"High Miles" wrote in message
...
bobmct wrote:
Living in east central CT I have both a deep well and a septic system.
Many decades ago I had my water analyzed which showed considerable
levels of iron in it. As a result I had installed an "exchange tank"
that each month has to have a vendor come in and exchange the tank
with another containing new chemicals. I am assuming the chemicals
might be a salt based substance (just a guess).

The cost of this service has gone up and up over the past decades to
the point where I am looking for an alternative that "might" be less
dependent on an outside vendor and hopefully less expensive to
support. BTW - I also have a whole house odor filter that I replace
every couple of months.

From those of you with similar water issues, what have you done to
solve the iron and/or odor problems on your systems? Remember, I
believe I'm not supposed to backwash a treatment/softener system into
the septic (so I'm told).

All suggestions/recommendations/ideas GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

I have a deep well in Illinois that produces more iron than a small mine.
For fifty years, a regular water softener - self serviced - with
addition
of block or pellet salt, and the ubiquitous rust filter with changeable
filters is all that it takes.
The hot water still stinks.
Also, only the toilet goes into the septic tank and field.
All other waste goes into a home made grease trap and then into
an entirely separate field of drain tiles.
My Pop figured out that setup sixty years ago and it has proven
to be a wise way to go.
That said, everyone else in the area runs the softener backwash
right down the laundry sink drain - or what ever, and directly
into their septic tanks.
No problems that I've heard of, but it does dump a lot of excess
water into the fields. especially in wet weather.

Dorothy

I have ALOT of iron in my water and have the regular treatment/softener
system that uses salt with iron out and it backwashes into the septic...Here
in Maine grey water systems are illegal and everything has to go into the
septic...No problems....

"bobmct" wrote in message
...
Living in east central CT I have both a deep well and a septic system.
Many decades ago I had my water analyzed which showed considerable
levels of iron in it. As a result I had installed an "exchange tank"
that each month has to have a vendor come in and exchange the tank
with another containing new chemicals. I am assuming the chemicals
might be a salt based substance (just a guess).

The cost of this service has gone up and up over the past decades to
the point where I am looking for an alternative that "might" be less
dependent on an outside vendor and hopefully less expensive to
support. BTW - I also have a whole house odor filter that I replace
every couple of months.

From those of you with similar water issues, what have you done to
solve the iron and/or odor problems on your systems? Remember, I
believe I'm not supposed to backwash a treatment/softener system into
the septic (so I'm told).

All suggestions/recommendations/ideas GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

I'd get the water tested again, preferably by a different vendor. You may
be getting the filter changed to often and the only way to know is to test.

Start by reading here
http://www.excelwater.com/eng/b2c/iron.php
Then click on the link about filters. Unless you know the concentration you
can't really make a good decision for the best treatment.

"WW" wrote in message
. ..

"bobmct" wrote in message
...
Living in east central CT I have both a deep well and a septic system.
Many decades ago I had my water analyzed which showed considerable
levels of iron in it. As a result I had installed an "exchange tank"
that each month has to have a vendor come in and exchange the tank
with another containing new chemicals. I am assuming the chemicals
might be a salt based substance (just a guess).

The cost of this service has gone up and up over the past decades to
the point where I am looking for an alternative that "might" be less
dependent on an outside vendor and hopefully less expensive to
support. BTW - I also have a whole house odor filter that I replace
every couple of months.

From those of you with similar water issues, what have you done to
solve the iron and/or odor problems on your systems? Remember, I
believe I'm not supposed to backwash a treatment/softener system into
the septic (so I'm told).

All suggestions/recommendations/ideas GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

When I was doing appliance repair at farm homes that had a lot of iron in
their water, I would find dishwashers that were turned dark brown inside.
A cycle run through with a couple ounces of Oxalic acid crystals would
bring back the white interior. Then run one more cycle with the electric
dishwashing detergent. You can find this acid crystals at some hardware or
garden centers. ww


The brand name of the dishwasher cleaner is called "Glisten". Believe it
or not some people get the same result by using Tang the orange flavored
drink. It is the citric acid in it that cleans the dishwasher.
--

Evelyn

"Even as a mother protects with her life her only child, So with a boundless
heart let one cherish all living beings." --Sutta Nipata 1.8

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"bobmct" wrote in message
...
Living in east central CT I have both a deep well and a septic system.
Many decades ago I had my water analyzed which showed considerable
levels of iron in it. As a result I had installed an "exchange tank"
that each month has to have a vendor come in and exchange the tank
with another containing new chemicals. I am assuming the chemicals
might be a salt based substance (just a guess).

The cost of this service has gone up and up over the past decades to
the point where I am looking for an alternative that "might" be less
dependent on an outside vendor and hopefully less expensive to
support. BTW - I also have a whole house odor filter that I replace
every couple of months.

From those of you with similar water issues, what have you done to
solve the iron and/or odor problems on your systems? Remember, I
believe I'm not supposed to backwash a treatment/softener system into
the septic (so I'm told).

All suggestions/recommendations/ideas GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

I'd get the water tested again, preferably by a different vendor. You may
be getting the filter changed to often and the only way to know is to
test.

Start by reading here
http://www.excelwater.com/eng/b2c/iron.php
Then click on the link about filters. Unless you know the concentration
you can't really make a good decision for the best treatment.



We have huge amounts of both kinds of iron in our water and we have quite a
system for getting it out. The water combines with chlorine bleach at
first, then it goes into a huge tank where the iron falls to the bottom
(where it can be drained off into a drain from time to time). It is also
combined with a flocking agent to get rid of the colloidal iron.... (the
only way to get rid of it) at the same time as the chlorine. It then goes
into a neutralizer tank (limestone) then through a carbon filter to remove
the bleach and other odors. Then it goes through a pair of twin water
softeners and a particle filter.

It is a good system but it was put in place here long before we bought this
house by a previous owner. We have had experts look it over, and the final
configuration was set up by Culligan. It has been working beautifully ever
since Culligan redid it. Before that we were getting ripped off regularly
by local plumbing companies who knew little about water purification
systems, but enough to get rich off us. The Culligan setup was expensive
too, but it has been a lot easier to maintain.

--

Evelyn

"Even as a mother protects with her life her only child, So with a boundless
heart let one cherish all living beings." --Sutta Nipata 1.8

bobmct wrote:
Living in east central CT I have both a deep well and a septic system.
Many decades ago I had my water analyzed which showed considerable
levels of iron in it. As a result I had installed an "exchange tank"
that each month has to have a vendor come in and exchange the tank
with another containing new chemicals. I am assuming the chemicals
might be a salt based substance (just a guess).

The cost of this service has gone up and up over the past decades to
the point where I am looking for an alternative that "might" be less
dependent on an outside vendor and hopefully less expensive to
support. BTW - I also have a whole house odor filter that I replace
every couple of months.

From those of you with similar water issues, what have you done to
solve the iron and/or odor problems on your systems? Remember, I
believe I'm not supposed to backwash a treatment/softener system into
the septic (so I'm told).

All suggestions/recommendations/ideas GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

Just a quick hit of an older site:
http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/h2oqual/watsys/ae1030w.htm
Suggests you are using an ion exchange unit which needs to be
regenerated or frequently changed.

I'm on well and septic but chose not to treat water which is borderline
but tastes fine. I have a whole house particle filter that goes 6
months between changes and wife occasionally uses Iron Out to remove
toilet and washer stains. Neighbor across street has bottled water
delivered each month. I would imagine it would be cheaper to bring in
your own drinking water and leave your well untreated.

*Neighbor across street has bottled water
I would imagine it would be cheaper to bring in
your own drinking water and leave your well untreated.

I buy bottle water for my cottage it's only .29 a gallon if I bring my
own bottle. It's great water and cheap. Wall Mart also has it and
it's .33 a gallon there. At my primary residence I have a water
softener that goes into the septic tank. It's been like that for 30
years. When I cleaned the tank last last year the cover of the tank
cracked. I was told this was from the softener.

"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
JimmyDahGeek wrote:
Neighbor across street has bottled water
I would imagine it would be cheaper to bring in
your own drinking water and leave your well untreated.

I buy bottle water for my cottage it's only .29 a gallon if I bring my
own bottle. It's great water and cheap. Wall Mart also has it and
it's .33 a gallon there. At my primary residence I have a water
softener that goes into the septic tank. It's been like that for 30
years. When I cleaned the tank last last year the cover of the tank
cracked. I was told this was from the softener.

I have a reverse osmosis system for my drinking water only.
It was inexpensive to install and cheap to maintain.



Only drawback to those is that they work best with strong water pressure, as
in city water. Well water usually doesn't have as much pressure. They
also work extremely well if you already have a water softener.

--

Evelyn

"Even as a mother protects with her life her only child, So with a boundless
heart let one cherish all living beings." --Sutta Nipata 1.8

On Jul 17, 7:13*pm, bobmct wrote:
Living in east central CT I have both a deep well and a septic system.
Many decades ago I had my water analyzed which showed considerable
levels of iron in it. *As a result I had installed an "exchange tank"
that each month has to have a vendor come in and exchange the tank
with another containing new chemicals. * *I am assuming the chemicals
might be a salt based substance (just a guess).

The cost of this service has gone up and up over the past decades to
the point where I am looking for an alternative that "might" be less
dependent on an outside vendor and hopefully less expensive to
support. *BTW - I also have a whole house odor filter that I replace
every couple of months.

From those of you with similar water issues, what have you done to
solve the iron and/or odor problems on your systems? * Remember, I
believe I'm not supposed to backwash a treatment/softener system into
the septic (so I'm told).

All suggestions/recommendations/ideas GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

We use a home brew system that starts with a huge (about 3 gallon)
sand filter I bought off of Ebay $75 I think, It was intended for use
in the oil service industry (yes it was new). I use a powered ball
valve on the purge fitting & control it with a sprinkler timer. We
just sprinkle the purge on the garden/orchard. I didn't include a
check valve, so the purge also back flushes the holding tanks
partially. The final step is just a manifold with 4 normal whole house
filters in pairs which last about a month on the primarys and about 3
months on the secondary's, I buy the cheapest filters they sell. I
suspect the initial cost was $100 - $300 hard to be accurate as I
picked up stuff as I found it, a little thrift store, a little Ebay,
Home Depot sale rack, etc. The results are good, the water is pure, no
clogged sink aerators, no junk in the toilet tanks, good taste. I do
ahve to manually add a little chlorine to one of the filters every
3-4 months, or it picks up a sulfur smell, & I'm working on automating
that. My operating cost is less than $10 per month

Evelyn wrote:

"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
JimmyDahGeek wrote:
Neighbor across street has bottled water
I would imagine it would be cheaper to bring in
your own drinking water and leave your well untreated.

I buy bottle water for my cottage it's only .29 a gallon if I bring my
own bottle. It's great water and cheap. Wall Mart also has it and
it's .33 a gallon there. At my primary residence I have a water
softener that goes into the septic tank. It's been like that for 30
years. When I cleaned the tank last last year the cover of the tank
cracked. I was told this was from the softener.

I have a reverse osmosis system for my drinking water only.
It was inexpensive to install and cheap to maintain.

Only drawback to those is that they work best with strong water pressure, as
in city water. Well water usually doesn't have as much pressure. They
also work extremely well if you already have a water softener.

If you have a well system and add a RO filer, you can readily adjust the
system to operate at higher pressure. Well systems are normally set to
operate a a lower pressure and with a wider pressure differential
between pump turn on and off for economy to maximize the draw down
capacity of a small diaphragm tank, but they can readily operate at
higher pressures.

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Evelyn wrote:

"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
JimmyDahGeek wrote:
Neighbor across street has bottled water
I would imagine it would be cheaper to bring in
your own drinking water and leave your well untreated.

I buy bottle water for my cottage it's only .29 a gallon if I bring my
own bottle. It's great water and cheap. Wall Mart also has it and
it's .33 a gallon there. At my primary residence I have a water
softener that goes into the septic tank. It's been like that for 30
years. When I cleaned the tank last last year the cover of the tank
cracked. I was told this was from the softener.

I have a reverse osmosis system for my drinking water only.
It was inexpensive to install and cheap to maintain.

Only drawback to those is that they work best with strong water pressure,
as
in city water. Well water usually doesn't have as much pressure. They
also work extremely well if you already have a water softener.

If you have a well system and add a RO filer, you can readily adjust the
system to operate at higher pressure. Well systems are normally set to
operate a a lower pressure and with a wider pressure differential
between pump turn on and off for economy to maximize the draw down
capacity of a small diaphragm tank, but they can readily operate at
higher pressures.



We already have SOOOOOO much water purification equipment that it would be
just one more thing. We're sticking with what we have, but I also get
bottled RO drinking water delivered in 5 gal bottles from Culligan, so we're
OK.

Remember too, that there is a 5 gal. of waste water for each gallone of RO
drinking water that you get out of that unit.

--

Evelyn

"Even as a mother protects with her life her only child, So with a boundless
heart let one cherish all living beings." --Sutta Nipata 1.8

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Evelyn wrote:

"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
JimmyDahGeek wrote:
Neighbor across street has bottled water
I would imagine it would be cheaper to bring in
your own drinking water and leave your well untreated.

I buy bottle water for my cottage it's only .29 a gallon if I bring my
own bottle. It's great water and cheap. Wall Mart also has it and
it's .33 a gallon there. At my primary residence I have a water
softener that goes into the septic tank. It's been like that for 30
years. When I cleaned the tank last last year the cover of the tank
cracked. I was told this was from the softener.



How in the heck could the softener crack the cover ??? I think the clumsy
septic guy is pulling your leg to cover his ass...JMHO....

"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
Evelyn wrote:
"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
JimmyDahGeek wrote:
Neighbor across street has bottled water
I would imagine it would be cheaper to bring in
your own drinking water and leave your well untreated.

I buy bottle water for my cottage it's only .29 a gallon if I bring my
own bottle. It's great water and cheap. Wall Mart also has it and
it's .33 a gallon there. At my primary residence I have a water
softener that goes into the septic tank. It's been like that for 30
years. When I cleaned the tank last last year the cover of the tank
cracked. I was told this was from the softener.

I have a reverse osmosis system for my drinking water only.
It was inexpensive to install and cheap to maintain.



Only drawback to those is that they work best with strong water pressure,
as in city water. Well water usually doesn't have as much pressure.
They also work extremely well if you already have a water softener.


My well pump operates at 30 to 50 lbs and the osmosis system works fine.



I used to sell those systems (RO drinking water) and they stronger the
pressure the more efficiently the system works.

--

Evelyn

"Even as a mother protects with her life her only child, So with a boundless
heart let one cherish all living beings." --Sutta Nipata 1.8

"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
Evelyn wrote:
"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Evelyn wrote:

"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
JimmyDahGeek wrote:
Neighbor across street has bottled water
I would imagine it would be cheaper to bring in
your own drinking water and leave your well untreated.

I buy bottle water for my cottage it's only .29 a gallon if I
bring my
own bottle. It's great water and cheap. Wall Mart also has it and
it's .33 a gallon there. At my primary residence I have a water
softener that goes into the septic tank. It's been like that for 30
years. When I cleaned the tank last last year the cover of the tank
cracked. I was told this was from the softener.

I have a reverse osmosis system for my drinking water only.
It was inexpensive to install and cheap to maintain.

Only drawback to those is that they work best with strong water
pressure, as
in city water. Well water usually doesn't have as much pressure.
They
also work extremely well if you already have a water softener.

If you have a well system and add a RO filer, you can readily adjust the
system to operate at higher pressure. Well systems are normally set to
operate a a lower pressure and with a wider pressure differential
between pump turn on and off for economy to maximize the draw down
capacity of a small diaphragm tank, but they can readily operate at
higher pressures.



We already have SOOOOOO much water purification equipment that it would
be just one more thing. We're sticking with what we have, but I also
get bottled RO drinking water delivered in 5 gal bottles from Culligan,
so we're OK.

Remember too, that there is a 5 gal. of waste water for each gallone of
RO drinking water that you get out of that unit.

I run my RO waste water out the storm drain instead of into the septic
tank.


That's a good way. After all there is nothing bad in it, just minerals!
--

Evelyn

"Even as a mother protects with her life her only child, So with a boundless
heart let one cherish all living beings." --Sutta Nipata 1.8

Evelyn wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Evelyn wrote:

"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
JimmyDahGeek wrote:
Neighbor across street has bottled water
I would imagine it would be cheaper to bring in
your own drinking water and leave your well untreated.

I buy bottle water for my cottage it's only .29 a gallon if I bring my
own bottle. It's great water and cheap. Wall Mart also has it and
it's .33 a gallon there. At my primary residence I have a water
softener that goes into the septic tank. It's been like that for 30
years. When I cleaned the tank last last year the cover of the tank
cracked. I was told this was from the softener.

I have a reverse osmosis system for my drinking water only.
It was inexpensive to install and cheap to maintain.

Only drawback to those is that they work best with strong water pressure,
as
in city water. Well water usually doesn't have as much pressure. They
also work extremely well if you already have a water softener.

If you have a well system and add a RO filer, you can readily adjust the
system to operate at higher pressure. Well systems are normally set to
operate a a lower pressure and with a wider pressure differential
between pump turn on and off for economy to maximize the draw down
capacity of a small diaphragm tank, but they can readily operate at
higher pressures.

We already have SOOOOOO much water purification equipment that it would be
just one more thing. We're sticking with what we have, but I also get
bottled RO drinking water delivered in 5 gal bottles from Culligan, so we're
OK.

Remember too, that there is a 5 gal. of waste water for each gallone of RO
drinking water that you get out of that unit.

The RO product to reject ratio is much better than 1:5, more like 1:2 at
worst.

Evelyn wrote:

"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
Evelyn wrote:
"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...
JimmyDahGeek wrote:
Neighbor across street has bottled water
I would imagine it would be cheaper to bring in
your own drinking water and leave your well untreated.

I buy bottle water for my cottage it's only .29 a gallon if I bring my
own bottle. It's great water and cheap. Wall Mart also has it and
it's .33 a gallon there. At my primary residence I have a water
softener that goes into the septic tank. It's been like that for 30
years. When I cleaned the tank last last year the cover of the tank
cracked. I was told this was from the softener.

I have a reverse osmosis system for my drinking water only.
It was inexpensive to install and cheap to maintain.



Only drawback to those is that they work best with strong water pressure,
as in city water. Well water usually doesn't have as much pressure.
They also work extremely well if you already have a water softener.


My well pump operates at 30 to 50 lbs and the osmosis system works fine.

I used to sell those systems (RO drinking water) and they stronger the
pressure the more efficiently the system works.

Yes, adjust the well pump pressure switch and tank charge to put the
system at a 50/70 split and it will do better.

On Jul 18, 6:24*am, "Evelyn" wrote:
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message

...







"bobmct" wrote in message
.. .
Living in east central CT I have both a deep well and a septic system.
Many decades ago I had my water analyzed which showed considerable
levels of iron in it. *As a result I had installed an "exchange tank"
that each month has to have a vendor come in and exchange the tank
with another containing new chemicals. * *I am assuming the chemicals
might be a salt based substance (just a guess).

The cost of this service has gone up and up over the past decades to
the point where I am looking for an alternative that "might" be less
dependent on an outside vendor and hopefully less expensive to
support. *BTW - I also have a whole house odor filter that I replace
every couple of months.

From those of you with similar water issues, what have you done to
solve the iron and/or odor problems on your systems? * Remember, I
believe I'm not supposed to backwash a treatment/softener system into
the septic (so I'm told).

All suggestions/recommendations/ideas GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

I'd get the water tested again, preferably by a different vendor. *You may
be getting the filter changed to often and the only way to know is to
test.

Start by reading here
http://www.excelwater.com/eng/b2c/iron.php
Then click on the link about filters. *Unless you know the concentration
you can't really make a good decision for the best treatment.

We have huge amounts of both kinds of iron in our water and we have quite a
system for getting it out. * The water combines with chlorine bleach at
first, then it goes into a huge tank where the iron falls to the bottom
(where it can be drained off into a drain from time to time). * *It is also
combined with a flocking agent to get rid of the colloidal iron.... (the
only way to get rid of it) at the same time as the chlorine. * It then goes
into a neutralizer tank (limestone) then through a carbon filter to remove
the bleach and other odors. * Then it goes through a pair of twin water
softeners and a particle filter.

It is a good system but it was put in place here long before we bought this
house by a previous owner. * We have had experts look it over, and the final
configuration was set up by Culligan. * It has been working beautifully ever
since Culligan redid it. * Before that we were getting ripped off regularly
by local plumbing companies who knew little about water purification
systems, but enough to get rich off us. * *The Culligan setup was expensive
too, but it has been a lot easier to maintain.

--

Evelyn

"Even as a mother protects with her life her only child, So with a boundless
heart let one cherish all living beings." --Sutta Nipata 1.8- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That sounds a lot like the systems I see in FLl for removing iron and
sulphur. my in laws had one of those, chlorinate, aerate and filter.
They also had problem with sand. My father in law built a serpentine
trap made of 3 inch PVC sewr pipe. The water would slow down enough
from entering the large pipe for the sand to settle out in the bottom
of the Ss There was a valve at the bottom of each S for flushing.
There were two of these "filters" coming off the well, one going to
the pressure tank to reduce the sand that got into it and one going to
the rest of the filtration system.