I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. I have heard it being used on gas tanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. However, someone told me that
modern gas will eat thru it. I dont see where modern gas is much
different than the gas was 10 years ago. I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in a gas return
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tank fuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. I would have thought the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all the gas is flushed out by pumping water thru it). But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it.

Also, these lines have a gas hose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. How high can it be? I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. So, who is right? I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. $300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the whole gas tank).

I hate working on these newer cars. Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.

Jimw

Jimw wrote:
I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. I have heard it being used on gas tanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. However, someone told me that
modern gas will eat thru it. I dont see where modern gas is much
different than the gas was 10 years ago. I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in a gas return
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tank fuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. I would have thought the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all the gas is flushed out by pumping water thru it). But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it.

Also, these lines have a gas hose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. How high can it be? I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. So, who is right? I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. $300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the whole gas tank).

I hate working on these newer cars. Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.

Jimw

the jb will work. get it good and clean and dry and somewhat warm.
Then let it cure a full 24 hours. Don't use the jb quick.

s

On May 26, 11:58*pm, Jimw wrote:
I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. *I have heard it being used on gas tanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. *However, someone told me that
modern gas will eat thru it. *I dont see where modern gas is much
different than the gas was 10 years ago. *I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in a gas return
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. *I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tank fuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. *I would have thought the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all the gas is flushed out by pumping water thru it). *But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it. *

Also, these lines have a gas hose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. *The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. *How high can it be? *I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. *At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. *So, who is right? *I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. *$300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the whole gas tank).

I hate working on these newer cars. *Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.

Jimw

What is fuel pump pressure, its probably low and a rubber piece
spliced in with clamps will be just fine, the pressure rating on those
hoses is im sure 5-10x what you have. I did it but needed 2 clamps on
each side. Id try JB first but clean well with Laquer thinner and
steel wool, alcohol and gas leave a residue. Braze it, that sounds
crazy since rust caused your issue and you dont have much metal left.
When my 91 Toy rusted a brake line out, within a year the fuel line
was shot from salt. When the brake line went I hit another car, check
yours, if they are all in the same location be carefull. JB even fixed
my plastic radiator top section at 10f, 4 years ago. Why did it break,
is the tank loose causing stress? Even my tank straps rusted away.

On May 27, 7:12�am, ransley wrote:
On May 26, 11:58�pm, Jimw wrote:





I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. �I have heard it being used on gas tanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. �However, someone told me that
modern gas will eat thru it. �I dont see where modern gas is much
different than the gas was 10 years ago. �I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in a gas return
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. �I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tank fuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. �I would have thought the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all the gas is flushed out by pumping water thru it). �But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it. �

Also, these lines have a gas hose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. �The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. �How high can it be? �I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. �At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. �So, who is right? �I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. �$300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the whole gas tank).

I hate working on these newer cars. �Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.

Jimw

What is fuel pump pressure, its probably low and a rubber piece
spliced in with clamps will be just fine, the pressure rating on those
hoses is im sure 5-10x what you have. I did it but needed 2 clamps on
each side. Id try JB first but clean well with Laquer thinner and
steel wool, alcohol and gas leave a residue. Braze it, that sounds
crazy since rust caused your issue and you dont have much metal left.
When my 91 Toy rusted a brake line out, within a year the fuel line
was shot from salt. When the brake line went I hit another car, check
yours, if they are all in the same location be carefull. JB even fixed
my plastic radiator top section at 10f, 4 years ago. Why did it break,
is the tank loose causing stress? �Even my tank straps rusted away.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

some modern vehicles pressure is over a 100 pounds, my 1990 caravans
normal pressure was over a 100 pounds, I found this out after putting
a pressure gauge on mine and driving around.

it would dsrop low occasionally causing vehicle stumble.

replace the pump to avoid a nasty gas leak and possible fire, or patch
line with proper high pressure hose.

If the vehicle is carbureted, the pressure in the gas lines
is much lower. Fuel injected, runs at a much higher
pressure.

You mention a return line. Which is most likely rather low
pressure. I'd try the JB weld. as the other writer mentions.
The are needs to be clean and dry. And allow 24 hours for
curing time befor using the vehicle.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jimw" wrote in message
...
I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics
and holds
well on metals. I have heard it being used on gas tanks and
never
heard of it leaking after it was used. However, someone
told me that
modern gas will eat thru it. I dont see where modern gas is
much
different than the gas was 10 years ago. I guess most of it
has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in a
gas return
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the
hose. I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tank fuel pump
(that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. I would have thought
the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it
or braze
it (after all the gas is flushed out by pumping water thru
it). But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it.

Also, these lines have a gas hose with some really weird
fittings that
need some special tool. The guy at the parts store told me
I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection
engines
have high pressure. How high can it be? I doubt it comes
even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does,
I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. At the same time, I had a
guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline
hose for
fuel injection lines. So, who is right? I tend to think
that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my
wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose.
$300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of
removing
the whole gas tank).

I hate working on these newer cars. Give me something prior
to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not
sold by
crooks.

Jimw

bob haller wrote:
On May 27, 7:12�am, ransley wrote:
On May 26, 11:58�pm, Jimw wrote:





I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. �I have heard it being used on gas tanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. �However, someone told me that
modern gas will eat thru it. �I dont see where modern gas is much
different than the gas was 10 years ago. �I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?
I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in a gas return
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. �I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tank fuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. �I would have thought the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all the gas is flushed out by pumping water thru it). �But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it. �
Also, these lines have a gas hose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. �The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. �How high can it be? �I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. �At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. �So, who is right? �I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. �$300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the whole gas tank).
I hate working on these newer cars. �Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.
Jimw
What is fuel pump pressure, its probably low and a rubber piece
spliced in with clamps will be just fine, the pressure rating on those
hoses is im sure 5-10x what you have. I did it but needed 2 clamps on
each side. Id try JB first but clean well with Laquer thinner and
steel wool, alcohol and gas leave a residue. Braze it, that sounds
crazy since rust caused your issue and you dont have much metal left.
When my 91 Toy rusted a brake line out, within a year the fuel line
was shot from salt. When the brake line went I hit another car, check
yours, if they are all in the same location be carefull. JB even fixed
my plastic radiator top section at 10f, 4 years ago. Why did it break,
is the tank loose causing stress? �Even my tank straps rusted away.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

some modern vehicles pressure is over a 100 pounds, my 1990 caravans
normal pressure was over a 100 pounds, I found this out after putting
a pressure gauge on mine and driving around.

it would dsrop low occasionally causing vehicle stumble.

replace the pump to avoid a nasty gas leak and possible fire, or patch
line with proper high pressure hose.

he SAID it was a return line. in fact the OP's statement to that effect
is STILL attached to this up above.

On May 26, 11:58*pm, Jimw wrote:
I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. *I have heard it being used on gas tanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. *However, someone told me that
modern gas will eat thru it. *I dont see where modern gas is much
different than the gas was 10 years ago. *I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in a gas return
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. *I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tank fuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. *I would have thought the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all the gas is flushed out by pumping water thru it). *But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it. *

Also, these lines have a gas hose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. *The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. *How high can it be? *I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. *At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. *So, who is right? *I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. *$300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the whole gas tank).

I hate working on these newer cars. *Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.

Jimw

Before you take your truck out for a post repair road test, stop by
NAPA. Autozone, Carquest or Pep Boys and buy a couple of the biggest
fire extinguishers they make. Take a cell phone with you and plan your
route to be within a mile of your local Fire Department. Try to stay
away from public places where people could be endangered. Keep in mind
that after the big conflagration, the FD will assign a cause to the
blaze, thereby canceling your insurance.
Of course, Finnegan's Law may not apply to you, in which case, best of
luck.
If you know someone really good with a welding torch, pros for years
have repaired metal fuel lines with silver solder. Requires much less
heat than braze, and has similar strength. You might even skip the
fire extinguishers.

Joe

On May 27, 1:56*pm, Joe wrote:
On May 26, 11:58*pm, Jimw wrote:



I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. *I have heard it being used on gas tanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. *However, someone told me that
modern gas will eat thru it. *I dont see where modern gas is much
different than the gas was 10 years ago. *I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in a gas return
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. *I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tank fuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. *I would have thought the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all the gas is flushed out by pumping water thru it). *But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it. *

Also, these lines have a gas hose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. *The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. *How high can it be? *I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. *At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. *So, who is right? *I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. *$300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the whole gas tank).

I hate working on these newer cars. *Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.

Jimw

Before you take your truck out for a post repair road test, stop by
NAPA. Autozone, Carquest or Pep Boys and buy a couple of the biggest
fire extinguishers they make. Take a cell phone with you and plan your
route to be within a mile of your local Fire Department. Try to stay
away from public places where people could be endangered. Keep in mind
that after the big conflagration, the FD will assign a cause to the
blaze, thereby canceling your insurance.
Of course, Finnegan's Law may not apply to you, in which case, best of
luck.

Isn't Finnegan's Law "If I'm not with the girl I love, I love the girl
I'm with"?

If you know someone really good with a welding torch, pros for years
have repaired metal fuel lines with silver solder. Requires much less
heat than braze, and has similar strength. You might even skip the
fire extinguishers.

Joe

On Tue, 26 May 2009 23:58:31 -0500, Jimw wrote:

I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. I have heard it being used on gas tanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. However, someone told me that
modern gas will eat thru it. I dont see where modern gas is much
different than the gas was 10 years ago. I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in a gas return
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tank fuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. I would have thought the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all the gas is flushed out by pumping water thru it). But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it.

Also, these lines have a gas hose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. How high can it be? I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. So, who is right? I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. $300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the whole gas tank).

I hate working on these newer cars. Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.

Jimw
No comment on the JB weld, but use the special fuel injection hose and
the proper fuel injection clamps. They work, and although about double
the cost of good regular fuel line and clamps, it will outlast them
more than 3:1 on an EFI system.
Don't even think about air hose - the fuel will destroy it in short
order.

On Wed, 27 May 2009 11:07:39 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 27 May 2009 04:58:03 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

some modern vehicles pressure is over a 100 pounds, my 1990 caravans
normal pressure was over a 100 pounds, I found this out after putting
a pressure gauge on mine and driving around.

On injected cars there are usually 2 fuel pumps, a small one to get
the gas out of the tank and a booster pump up on the engine to get the
100+PSI for the injectors.


Have not seen that on any cars in North America for over 20 years.

On May 26, 11:58*pm, Jimw wrote:
I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. *I have heard it being used ongastanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. *However, someone told me that
moderngaswill eat thru it. *I dont see where moderngasis much
different than thegaswas 10 years ago. *I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in agasreturn
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. *I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tankfuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. *I would have thought the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all thegasis flushed out by pumping water thru it). *But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it. *

Also, these lines have agashose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. *The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. *How high can it be? *I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. *At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. *So, who is right? *I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. *$300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the wholegastank).

I hate working on these newer cars. *Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.

Jimw

There are several Fuel tank repair products that you could use that
are made
to be impervious to gasoline:

http://www.acehardware.com/family/in...970&cp=1255100

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=LCT-988638

http://www.itwconsumer.com/catalog.aspx?prodID=79

On May 27, 11:17*pm, wrote:
On May 26, 11:58*pm, Jimw wrote:



I knowJBWeldwill fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. *I have heard it being used ongastanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. *However, someone told me that
moderngaswill eat thru it. *I dont see where moderngasis much
different than thegaswas 10 years ago. *I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt theJBWeld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in agasreturn
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. *I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tankfuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. *I would have thought theJB
Weldwould be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all thegasis flushed out by pumping water thru it). *But
theJBWeldis the easiest and cheapest method to fix it. *

Also, these lines have agashose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. *The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. *How high can it be? *I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. *At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. *So, who is right? *I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. *$300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the wholegastank).

I hate working on these newer cars. *Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.

Jimw

And.....JB Weld is impervious to gasoline after it's cured, and JB
Stik can even be used on wet gasoline surfaces.

http://jbweld.net/products/jbstik.php

replying to Jimw, Larry wrote:
Tow that piece of **** chevy to the junk yard lol. I hate my 2000 silverado
with all its **** poor engineering not to mention cheap ass parts.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ne-375484-.htm

On Wed, 07 Dec 2016 04:44:01 +0000, Larry
m wrote:

replying to Jimw, Larry wrote:
Tow that piece of **** chevy to the junk yard lol. I hate my 2000 silverado
with all its **** poor engineering not to mention cheap ass parts.

I'll have to agree with your opinion on GM vehicles - but if when you
buy ANY vehicle, GM or not, you spray all of the fuel and brake lines
with a good non-hardening rust-ptoofing they last a LOT longer. Fluid
Film works good and is about $10 a can on apecial, $14 any-time and
one can will do a vehicle several times. Do them every year. Rust-chek
has spray can product too - as do several other companies. Spray the
lines up above the gas tank too if they are not plastic lines.

In article s.com,
says...

replying to Jimw, Larry wrote:
Tow that piece of **** chevy to the junk yard lol. I hate my 2000 silverado
with all its **** poor engineering not to mention cheap ass parts.


YOu must not hate it too much if you still have it.

I had a 1972 Dodge I bought new and it was so sorry I got rid of it at
about 18,000 miles. That was the 3rd Crysler I had and never bought
another. Went to a GM car and the timing gear went out evrey 40,000
miles. Got rid of it after the 2 nd one around 80,000. Went to the
Datsun and put 100,000 on it . Wanted a new car so went to Toyotas and
put almot 200,000 on one and have 2 more now.

replying to clare, Larry wrote:
That is a great idea. I plan on sending mine to the junk yard after this plow
season. I bought a tundra and wont be buying another american made/china
assembly product again. I dont mind doing the brake lines its the lack of
engineering into chevy that kills me, nothing is thought out using logic. Its
a comfortable truck though i will give it that. Thank you for your feedback
and insight.

--
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replying to Ralph Mowery, Larry wrote:
I have a lot into the chevy so im trying to get it to pay me back. Bought a
tundra to back it up when it breaks down again. After owning the toyota i wont
buy any more american garbage. Going to plow it into the ground and send it to
the junk yard in the spring.

--
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On Wed, 07 Dec 2016 15:44:01 +0000, Larry
m wrote:

replying to Ralph Mowery, Larry wrote:
I have a lot into the chevy so im trying to get it to pay me back. Bought a
tundra to back it up when it breaks down again. After owning the toyota i wont
buy any more american garbage. Going to plow it into the ground and send it to
the junk yard in the spring.
The more you put into any troublesome vehicle - particularly a GM,
the less likely it will ever "pay you back"

On Wed, 07 Dec 2016 15:44:01 +0000, Larry
m wrote:

replying to clare, Larry wrote:
That is a great idea. I plan on sending mine to the junk yard after this plow
season. I bought a tundra and wont be buying another american made/china
assembly product again. I dont mind doing the brake lines its the lack of
engineering into chevy that kills me, nothing is thought out using logic. Its
a comfortable truck though i will give it that. Thank you for your feedback
and insight.
If you want a truck that rides like a car, get a chevy - but don't
expect it to last like a truck.

In article ,
says...

On Wed, 07 Dec 2016 15:44:01 +0000, Larry
m wrote:

replying to Ralph Mowery, Larry wrote:
I have a lot into the chevy so im trying to get it to pay me back. Bought a
tundra to back it up when it breaks down again. After owning the toyota i wont
buy any more american garbage. Going to plow it into the ground and send it to
the junk yard in the spring.
The more you put into any troublesome vehicle - particularly a GM,
the less likely it will ever "pay you back"

For me it would not really be about the payback, but how many times it
let me down on the road and I was stranded.

That is what happened to me with one GM car. The 2nd time and it was
traded shortly after it was repaired.

On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 17:49:23 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Wed, 07 Dec 2016 15:44:01 +0000, Larry
m wrote:

replying to Ralph Mowery, Larry wrote:
I have a lot into the chevy so im trying to get it to pay me back. Bought a
tundra to back it up when it breaks down again. After owning the toyota i wont
buy any more american garbage. Going to plow it into the ground and send it to
the junk yard in the spring.
The more you put into any troublesome vehicle - particularly a GM,
the less likely it will ever "pay you back"

For me it would not really be about the payback, but how many times it
let me down on the road and I was stranded.

That is what happened to me with one GM car. The 2nd time and it was
traded shortly after it was repaired.

I've been driving Chevys for 50 years. Not a one has stranded me.

On 12/7/2016 6:55 PM, Vic Smith wrote:


That is what happened to me with one GM car. The 2nd time and it was
traded shortly after it was repaired.

I've been driving Chevys for 50 years. Not a one has stranded me.


I've been stranded by one Chevy, two Olds, one Pontiac, two Buicks. I
won't have another GM car. Got rid of the last one ten years ago.
Every GM car I bought new had to go back in the first few months for
warranty work.

My third Hyundai did need a small warranty repair at 55,000 miles. If I
had a GM car with the same problem it would have long been out of
warranty. No problems with my Genesis at 24k.

One exception. If someone gave me a Corvette I'd graciously accept it.

replying to clare, Larry wrote:
This is so true, where were you when i bought this pos? Lol

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ne-375484-.htm

On Wed, 07 Dec 2016 17:55:39 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 17:49:23 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Wed, 07 Dec 2016 15:44:01 +0000, Larry
m wrote:

replying to Ralph Mowery, Larry wrote:
I have a lot into the chevy so im trying to get it to pay me back. Bought a
tundra to back it up when it breaks down again. After owning the toyota i wont
buy any more american garbage. Going to plow it into the ground and send it to
the junk yard in the spring.
The more you put into any troublesome vehicle - particularly a GM,
the less likely it will ever "pay you back"

For me it would not really be about the payback, but how many times it
let me down on the road and I was stranded.

That is what happened to me with one GM car. The 2nd time and it was
traded shortly after it was repaired.

I've been driving Chevys for 50 years. Not a one has stranded me.
My pontiac didn't strand me either - but it sure made getting
anywhere miserable -and It would have stranded me if I had not stayed
on top of it's problems. Although it never let me down, it never
instilled any confidence either.

On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 20:01:35 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 12/7/2016 6:55 PM, Vic Smith wrote:


That is what happened to me with one GM car. The 2nd time and it was
traded shortly after it was repaired.

I've been driving Chevys for 50 years. Not a one has stranded me.


I've been stranded by one Chevy, two Olds, one Pontiac, two Buicks. I
won't have another GM car. Got rid of the last one ten years ago.
Every GM car I bought new had to go back in the first few months for
warranty work.

My third Hyundai did need a small warranty repair at 55,000 miles. If I
had a GM car with the same problem it would have long been out of
warranty. No problems with my Genesis at 24k.

One exception. If someone gave me a Corvette I'd graciously accept it.
The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I was
buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't turn down
if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money on one. A couple
friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys but not something you'd
want to depend on for everyday travel.

"Wood is good, steel is real, and glass is class - so wrap your ass in
fiberglass"

replying to Ralph Mowery, Larry wrote:
Very true sir. Most cars wont leave you on the side of the road but its
frustrating when it happens. Half the time when i sent it to the shop there
was a kid working on it and it came back half fixed only to break again. Had a
4 wheeler in the back of my truck and they failed my inspection because the
head lights were 8 degrees too high....i asked them if they thought the atv
had anything yo do with it. The guy just looked at me, stay in school kids
thats my advice lol

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ne-375484-.htm

replying to Larry, Larry wrote:
I really feel bad as i was just poking fun at the second chevy i have bought
and done nothing but work on. The first one had 50k on it and was a pos but
thats an s-10 for you. This one had 150k on it so in all fairness i knew it
was going to break. I didnt expect the 4wd switch, blower fan resistor, both
power windows, and all four calipers would go. Of course the power steering
pump, starter and alternator went in the next 3 months. I will say all but the
pump were easy to do. Sorry folks i didnt mean to start a thread of bash chevy
my bad. Going out to hug my chevy right now lol

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ne-375484-.htm

On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 20:01:35 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 12/7/2016 6:55 PM, Vic Smith wrote:


That is what happened to me with one GM car. The 2nd time and it was
traded shortly after it was repaired.

I've been driving Chevys for 50 years. Not a one has stranded me.


I've been stranded by one Chevy, two Olds, one Pontiac, two Buicks. I
won't have another GM car. Got rid of the last one ten years ago.
Every GM car I bought new had to go back in the first few months for
warranty work.

My third Hyundai did need a small warranty repair at 55,000 miles. If I
had a GM car with the same problem it would have long been out of
warranty. No problems with my Genesis at 24k.

One exception. If someone gave me a Corvette I'd graciously accept it.

I have never bought a new car, and only bought one with less than
55,000 miles. That's my current 2003 Impala, which had 48,000.
Just did a short drive in my '93 Grand Am. Not saying my cars have
been trouble free, but nothing I can't handle. If you want trouble
free, you don't buy GM, used or new. But since I've never been
stranded, or even worried about it, they've suited me fine.
They allowed me to retire early.

On 12/7/2016 9:30 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 20:01:35 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:


One exception. If someone gave me a Corvette I'd graciously accept it.
The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I was
buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't turn down
if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money on one. A couple
friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys but not something you'd
want to depend on for everyday travel.

"Wood is good, steel is real, and glass is class - so wrap your ass in
fiberglass"


Agree on the older 'vettes, but the new ones are much more reliable and
comfortable. I've known some owners over the years and every one has
another car for regular commuting and bad weather. Corvette is a nice
toy though. A friend just took his 2012 down to Florida for the winter
and averages 33 mpg.

As for the Volt or Bolt, I'd have to spend some time with it to see how
practical it is. I'm thinking heat in very cold weather and AC in
summer. Are they as good as a gas powered engine? One thing I really
like is being able to start my car for a few minutes with the heated
steering wheel on.

On Thu, 8 Dec 2016 17:17:58 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 12/7/2016 9:30 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 20:01:35 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:


One exception. If someone gave me a Corvette I'd graciously accept it.
The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I was
buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't turn down
if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money on one. A couple
friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys but not something you'd
want to depend on for everyday travel.

"Wood is good, steel is real, and glass is class - so wrap your ass in
fiberglass"


Agree on the older 'vettes, but the new ones are much more reliable and
comfortable. I've known some owners over the years and every one has
another car for regular commuting and bad weather. Corvette is a nice
toy though. A friend just took his 2012 down to Florida for the winter
and averages 33 mpg.

As for the Volt or Bolt, I'd have to spend some time with it to see how
practical it is. I'm thinking heat in very cold weather and AC in
summer. Are they as good as a gas powered engine? One thing I really
like is being able to start my car for a few minutes with the heated
steering wheel on.
For the money I save by buying used Fords I can afford a few pairs of
good warm gloves - - - -.

Thu, 08 Dec 2016 02:30:07 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:


The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I was
buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't turn
down if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money on one.
A couple friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys but not
something you'd want to depend on for everyday travel.

They aren't much fun to work on either. Especially if it has anything
to do with the interior behind the dash. Changing out a heater core in
one is no fun whatsoever. I'd rather have a nail run thru my foot. Less
pain.

"Wood is good, steel is real, and glass is class - so wrap your
ass in fiberglass"

Just don't hit anything when you do. [g]




--
Make yourself sheep and the wolves will eat you.
Benjamin Franklin

On Saturday, December 17, 2016 at 9:35:51 PM UTC-5, Diesel wrote:

Thu, 08 Dec 2016 02:30:07 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:


The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I was
buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't turn
down if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money on one.
A couple friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys but not
something you'd want to depend on for everyday travel.

They aren't much fun to work on either. Especially if it has anything
to do with the interior behind the dash. Changing out a heater core in
one is no fun whatsoever. I'd rather have a nail run thru my foot. Less
pain.


How many cars do you know of where changing out the heater core is "fun"? There
sure aren't many.

My 1980 Mustang LX was one of the few. The heater core hoses were easily accessible
on the firewall. Inside the car you removed the glove compartment door and removed
the 2 screws on the panel that is revealed. The heater then just slid right out. A rarity
indeed.

On Sat, 17 Dec 2016 20:58:49 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, December 17, 2016 at 9:35:51 PM UTC-5, Diesel wrote:

Thu, 08 Dec 2016 02:30:07 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:


The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I was
buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't turn
down if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money on one.
A couple friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys but not
something you'd want to depend on for everyday travel.

They aren't much fun to work on either. Especially if it has anything
to do with the interior behind the dash. Changing out a heater core in
one is no fun whatsoever. I'd rather have a nail run thru my foot. Less
pain.


How many cars do you know of where changing out the heater core is "fun"? There
sure aren't many.

My 1980 Mustang LX was one of the few. The heater core hoses were easily accessible
on the firewall. Inside the car you removed the glove compartment door and removed
the 2 screws on the panel that is revealed. The heater then just slid right out. A rarity
indeed.
The series 2 Ranger pickup was pretty painless too - a bit more
difficult with a 4.0 than with a 2.3, but still pretty simple.

DerbyDad03
Sun, 18
Dec 2016 04:58:49 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

On Saturday, December 17, 2016 at 9:35:51 PM UTC-5, Diesel wrote:

Thu, 08 Dec 2016
02:30:07 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:


The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I
was
buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't
turn down if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money
on one. A couple friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys
but not something you'd want to depend on for everyday travel.

They aren't much fun to work on either. Especially if it has
anything to do with the interior behind the dash. Changing out a
heater core in one is no fun whatsoever. I'd rather have a nail
run thru my foot. Less pain.


How many cars do you know of where changing out the heater core is
"fun"? There sure aren't many.

Depends on your idea of fun. The mazda b2x series pickups weren't too
bad. Even the s10/sonoma trucks by GM aren't as bad. And depending on
the make/model mustang, it may not be a miserable experience either.

Those corvettes oth, are a pain in the arse on a good day.

My 1980 Mustang LX was one of the few. The heater core hoses were
easily accessible on the firewall. Inside the car you removed the
glove compartment door and removed the 2 screws on the panel that
is revealed. The heater then just slid right out. A rarity indeed.

It's not quite as rare as you might think. You can typically do this
on the fox bodies too.




--
Make yourself sheep and the wolves will eat you.
Benjamin Franklin

Larry m
ups.com Thu, 08
Dec 2016 15:14:01 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

replying to Larry, Larry wrote:
I really feel bad as i was just poking fun at the second chevy i
have bought and done nothing but work on. The first one had 50k on
it and was a pos but thats an s-10 for you. This one had 150k on
it so in all fairness i knew it was going to break. I didnt expect
the 4wd switch, blower fan resistor, both power windows, and all
four calipers would go. Of course the power steering pump, starter
and alternator went in the next 3 months. I will say all but the
pump were easy to do. Sorry folks i didnt mean to start a thread
of bash chevy my bad. Going out to hug my chevy right now lol


LOL. I've had several s10s and sonomas. I really like them. But, I also
understand that I will be dealing with electrical issues on all of
them, I've yet to meet one that doesn't do the GM wiring 'can you guess
what's wrong with me today?' routine.

My favorite one had the 2.5liter iron duke engine. Great little motor,
fantastic on gas milage too. But, it did get me for a starter, heater
core, blower resistor pack (saab's blower resistor pack isn't any
better, btw), etc.

Despite these issues, not one has actually stranded me. I knew ahead of
time before I left the driveway the truck had one or more issues that
could interfere with it's ability to get me home, should I venture out.

--
Make yourself sheep and the wolves will eat you.
Benjamin Franklin

replying to Vic Smith, Larry wrote:
You buy a new one every 5 years and trade it in before it becomes a big piece
of **** yeah yeah lol

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