Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of the
existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a couple
of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily to
refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated sinkers to do
so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better. OK, guy is a pro, I
asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing nails
(totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring shanks in
between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring shanks ya
barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact they bend. The
hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus I'm
going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?


Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor Freight
asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring shank nails. I
get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar with nail guns". I
get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person hesitates and says "What
exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a clipped head or something?"
I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.

I'm in the process of doing the same thing now myself. How are your
knees holding up?

I'm not using nails I'm using screws. I have a box of 2500 #8 x 2-1/2
that I got from McFeely's and I'm putting them about every 6". It
might be a little overkill but I don't like these damn squeaks.

Good luck.

G.S.

On Tue, 03 Mar 2009 21:53:00 -0600, Red Green
wrote:

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus I'm
going through subfloor into joists.

Red Green wrote:
Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of the
existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a couple
of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily to
refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated sinkers to do
so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better. OK, guy is a pro, I
asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing nails
(totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring shanks in
between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring shanks ya
barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact they bend. The
hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus I'm
going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?


Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor Freight
asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring shank nails. I
get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar with nail guns". I
get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person hesitates and says "What
exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a clipped head or something?"
I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.


Somewhere in my tools I have a plastic nail holder.
It's like pliers with groves to grip the nail shaft
so you can get a nail started more easily without
bending it or hitting your fingers. There are several
different nail guides and holders that I've seen that
may help you.

http://tinyurl.com/b7ttmw

http://tinyurl.com/dzs2qb

http://tinyurl.com/baqdkz

http://tinyurl.com/bx8384

http://tinyurl.com/csv66f

TDD

Gordon Shumway wrote in
news
I'm in the process of doing the same thing now myself. How are your
knees holding up?

I'm not using nails I'm using screws. I have a box of 2500 #8 x 2-1/2
that I got from McFeely's and I'm putting them about every 6". It
might be a little overkill but I don't like these damn squeaks.

Good luck.

G.S.

On Tue, 03 Mar 2009 21:53:00 -0600, Red Green
wrote:

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus
I'm going through subfloor into joists.



Yea I know. Screws are an option. I have a lot to do...multiple rooms.
Was seeing if the RS would be OK being a lot more economical. No question
once they are in they are not moving. But the unexpected surprise of
getting them in,

The two new linoleum floors I put down I put luan down first. For new
flooring with lino on top, I use the Phillip no-snap ones. Drive down
just below surface. Skimcoat heads.


Knees? What knees? Tossed them in the green dumpster after the 26 square
one man roofing job last year :-)

The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

Red Green wrote:
Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of
the existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a
couple of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily
to refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated
sinkers to do so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better.
OK, guy is a pro, I asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing
nails (totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring
shanks in between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring
shanks ya barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact
they bend. The hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got
some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus
I'm going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?


Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor
Freight asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring
shank nails. I get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar
with nail guns". I get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person
hesitates and says "What exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a
clipped head or something?" I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.


Somewhere in my tools I have a plastic nail holder.
It's like pliers with groves to grip the nail shaft
so you can get a nail started more easily without
bending it or hitting your fingers. There are several
different nail guides and holders that I've seen that
may help you.



Thanks for the reply and ideas.



http://tinyurl.com/b7ttmw

Hmmmm. Possibility. Looking at associated link, says the nails made to be
used with it have a 3/16" head. The ring shanks have a 1/4" head.


http://tinyurl.com/dzs2qb

http://tinyurl.com/baqdkz

http://tinyurl.com/bx8384

http://tinyurl.com/csv66f

This is amusing.

Wonder how long before the level bubbles get smashed to ****?

Look at the pic of the woman using it. Uses thingy to safely hold nails
but holds fingers right where thingy is holding nail.



TDD

They make ring shank nails that will work in a nail gun. What I would do is
first source the nails you want to use and then if a good nailer is not in
your budget, then consider renting one.

In my experience HF is a good place to buy some stuff but I think if I was
going to buy a nail gun, I would first seek out a used name brand that you
will nave no problems getting parts for and is likely to have a smooth
consistent operation.

After doing my last roof with a nail gun, I would definitely consider one
for a project of this type.

Goggle ring shank nails and stick with a name brand. getting some cheap
Chinese off brand will probably not be worth the grief for the few bucks you
save.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


"Red Green" wrote in message
...
Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of the
existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a couple
of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily to
refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated sinkers to do
so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better. OK, guy is a pro, I
asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing nails
(totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring shanks in
between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring shanks ya
barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact they bend. The
hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus I'm
going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?


Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor Freight
asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring shank nails. I
get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar with nail guns". I
get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person hesitates and says "What
exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a clipped head or something?"
I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.

Red Green wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

Red Green wrote:
Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of
the existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a
couple of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily
to refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated
sinkers to do so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better.
OK, guy is a pro, I asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing
nails (totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring
shanks in between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring
shanks ya barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact
they bend. The hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got
some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus
I'm going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?


Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor
Freight asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring
shank nails. I get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar
with nail guns". I get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person
hesitates and says "What exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a
clipped head or something?" I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.

Somewhere in my tools I have a plastic nail holder.
It's like pliers with groves to grip the nail shaft
so you can get a nail started more easily without
bending it or hitting your fingers. There are several
different nail guides and holders that I've seen that
may help you.



Thanks for the reply and ideas.



http://tinyurl.com/b7ttmw

Hmmmm. Possibility. Looking at associated link, says the nails made to be
used with it have a 3/16" head. The ring shanks have a 1/4" head.

http://tinyurl.com/dzs2qb

http://tinyurl.com/baqdkz

http://tinyurl.com/bx8384

http://tinyurl.com/csv66f

This is amusing.

Wonder how long before the level bubbles get smashed to ****?

Look at the pic of the woman using it. Uses thingy to safely hold nails
but holds fingers right where thingy is holding nail.


I love the industrial tool and test equipment catalogs
that promote political correctness. They will picture a
woman in a hard hat hooking a megger to a 4-20 milliamp
loop sensor circuit. There are girls who know tech stuff
but dang, don't show women doing idiotic things for the
sake of PC. Of course there was always the Ridgid Tool
catalog showing scantily clad women with a pipe wrenches
in strange provocative poses. I always laughed at those
thinking, "I've never seen a woman do that to a pipe
wrench!"

TDD

On Mar 3, 9:53*pm, Red Green wrote:
Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of the
existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a couple
of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily to
refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated sinkers to do
so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better. OK, guy is a pro, I
asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing nails
(totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring shanks in
between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring shanks ya
barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact they bend. The
hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got some wear & tear :-(

snip

You can't get a better hammer.

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus I'm
going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?

snip

Not really...
I can empathize with your agony. My ancient joints limit activities,
so I compensate with better tools. Makes my argument with SWMBO
effective. The solution to your problem is to get a Senco framing
nailer and use one their 3 sizes of ring shank nails. They are coated
as well, and quite difficult to remove without a struggle. Used mine
extensively on our current rehab project, for plywood sheathing,
subflooring and roof decking. Keep in mind they do not draw down
sprung boards like screws do, so by all means get an impact driver for
that chore. If budgeting is a problem (the economy is crap we know),
buy the nails and screws and rent the tools to be sure if you want to
make the investment. Wear your safety glasses, hear?

Joe

On Tue, 3 Mar 2009 22:09:50 -0800, Roger Shoaf wrote:

They make ring shank nails that will work in a nail gun. What I would do is
first source the nails you want to use and then if a good nailer is not in
your budget, then consider renting one.

In my experience HF is a good place to buy some stuff but I think if I was
going to buy a nail gun, I would first seek out a used name brand that you
will nave no problems getting parts for and is likely to have a smooth
consistent operation.

After doing my last roof with a nail gun, I would definitely consider one
for a project of this type.

Goggle ring shank nails and stick with a name brand. getting some cheap
Chinese off brand will probably not be worth the grief for the few bucks you
save.

Look for a nail gun with adjustable depth. My original framing nail gun
adjusted the depth by air pressure. Not great. My roofing gun has
adjustable depth. MUCH better!

Joe wrote in
:

On Mar 3, 9:53*pm, Red Green wrote:
Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of
the existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a
couple of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily
to refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated
sinkers to do so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better.
OK, guy is a pro, I asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing
nails (totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring
shanks in between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring
shanks ya barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact
they bend. The hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got
some wear & tear :-(

snip

You can't get a better hammer.

Well, the one I replaced was an Estwing. Bought it around 1985. Guess it
was time since the face can probably be considered a ball-peen lately :-)


These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus
I'm going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?

snip

Not really...
I can empathize with your agony. My ancient joints limit activities,
so I compensate with better tools. Makes my argument with SWMBO
effective. The solution to your problem is to get a Senco framing
nailer and use one their 3 sizes of ring shank nails. They are coated
as well, and quite difficult to remove without a struggle. Used mine
extensively on our current rehab project, for plywood sheathing,
subflooring and roof decking. Keep in mind they do not draw down
sprung boards like screws do, so by all means get an impact driver for
that chore. If budgeting is a problem (the economy is crap we know),
buy the nails and screws and rent the tools to be sure if you want to
make the investment. Wear your safety glasses, hear?

Joe

Red Green wrote in
:

Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of
the existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a
couple of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily
to refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated sinkers
to do so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better. OK, guy is
a pro, I asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing
nails (totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring
shanks in between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring
shanks ya barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact
they bend. The hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got
some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus
I'm going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?


Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor
Freight asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring shank
nails. I get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar with nail
guns". I get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person hesitates and says
"What exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a clipped head or
something?" I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.



Decided to go at it again with a hammer today. Went quite well actually.
Guess I just had to pay more attention to body positioning as well as
learn the nails. Zipped through a 12x14 room...move furniture, pull up
half of carper/pad, verify joist locations, nail, carpet/pad back, do
same on other side then furniture back.

Never again without a nailgun. Considering the amount I had to do (all
carpeted areas) I blew a perfect justification for one. Just wanted to
get it done vs purchase research.

On Mar 4, 7:41*pm, Red Green wrote:
Red Green wrote :



Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of
the existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a
couple of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily
to refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated sinkers
to do so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better. OK, guy is
a pro, I asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing
nails (totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring
shanks in between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring
shanks ya barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact
they bend. The hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got
some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus
I'm going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?

Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor
Freight asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring shank
nails. I get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar with nail
guns". I get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person hesitates and says
"What exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a clipped head or
something?" I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.

Decided to go at it again with a hammer today. Went quite well actually.
Guess I just had to pay more attention to body positioning as well as
learn the nails. Zipped through a 12x14 room...move furniture, pull up
half of carper/pad, verify joist locations, nail, carpet/pad back, do
same on other side then furniture back.

Never again without a nailgun. Considering the amount I had to do (all
carpeted areas) I blew a perfect justification for one. Just wanted to
get it done vs purchase research.

RG-

Could not find the description of the new hammer you bought.

I used to (YEARS ago) be able to drive 16's easily with a 24 oz smooth
face but after an extended period of "not much hammer use".......I
was no longer able to drive nails easily or consistently without
bending. A guy I was working with said "why are you struggling with
a smooth faced hammer, get yourself a milled face".

I switched to a 24 oz milled face & then to a 28 oz rigging axe. The
milled face made a huge difference and I was back to driving nails
easily, from any position or angle.

Give a decent sized (24 oz or bigger) milled face a try. Also, if
the floor boards have any spring or gap to the joists, that will make
driving more difficult.

I've got a Hitachi NR83A (FRH) that I hardly ever use now but I
recommend them as well as Senco. A used unit would be a solid
purchase.

cheers
Bob

cheers
Bob

fftt wrote in
:

On Mar 4, 7:41*pm, Red Green wrote:
Red Green wrote
innews:Xns9BC3E8C695C03RedGreen@21
6.168.3.70:



Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot
of the existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've
done a couple of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to
be done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad
temporarily to refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d
coated sinkers to do so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be
better. OK, guy is a pro, I asked for advice so I might as well
take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing
nails (totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring
shanks in between which would half the spacing. Well those damn
ring shanks ya barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square
contact they bend. The hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well
they've got some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me.
Plus I'm going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?

Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor
Freight asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring
shank nails. I get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar
with nail guns". I get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person
hesitates and says "What exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a
clipped head or something?" I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.

Decided to go at it again with a hammer today. Went quite well
actually. Guess I just had to pay more attention to body positioning
as well as learn the nails. Zipped through a 12x14 room...move
furniture, pull up half of carper/pad, verify joist locations, nail,
carpet/pad back, do same on other side then furniture back.

Never again without a nailgun. Considering the amount I had to do
(all carpeted areas) I blew a perfect justification for one. Just
wanted to get it done vs purchase research.

RG-

Could not find the description of the new hammer you bought.

I used to (YEARS ago) be able to drive 16's easily with a 24 oz smooth
face but after an extended period of "not much hammer use".......I
was no longer able to drive nails easily or consistently without
bending. A guy I was working with said "why are you struggling with
a smooth faced hammer, get yourself a milled face".

I switched to a 24 oz milled face & then to a 28 oz rigging axe. The
milled face made a huge difference and I was back to driving nails
easily, from any position or angle.

Give a decent sized (24 oz or bigger) milled face a try. Also, if
the floor boards have any spring or gap to the joists, that will make
driving more difficult.

I've got a Hitachi NR83A (FRH) that I hardly ever use now but I
recommend them as well as Senco. A used unit would be a solid
purchase.

cheers
Bob

cheers
Bob


Oh yea. I have a milled face one. Long handle Estwing. Can do some
serious driving with that on 16's. Can use in a pinch in place of a
wrecking balade on a recip saw :-) Can put a hurtin' on my arm though if
hammering above. Seriously doubt it would be any good on such low gague
nails.

Thanks for the reply...

replying to Red Green, stugotsa wrote:
hi Red. i read your blog and it made me start to laugh of how the guy at
harbor frieght didn't know what a rsn was. what the hell are they doing
working in a constructio tool supply house. i know how you felt when you asked
him about. the rsn and he didn't know what it was. im a 72 year old semi
retired tile. contractor and i run into the same situation every time i ask a
clerk at h ome depot, lowes etc. you think they would require their employees
to go through. some sort of orientation and train them on the basic types of
power gun fasteners, before they let them answer the phone to answer customers
questions. and they want to raise minimum wage to $15.00 per hr.... in answer
to your question about the rsn bending when using a hammer? it's all in the
way how you're holding the hammer and making the right contact on the nail. i
think a little practice will solve your problem. i hit the rsn lightly first
to get it to bite in the wood, then it should not take more then two hits to
get that nail down flush in the floor. just make sure that you let the weight
of the hammer. do the work,with. wrist action ,not your arm, and in short time
you will catch on. good luck.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ls-362361-.htm

On Tuesday, March 3, 2009 at 9:53:00 PM UTC-6, Red Green wrote:
Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of the
existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a couple
of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily to
refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated sinkers to do
so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better. OK, guy is a pro, I
asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing nails
(totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring shanks in
between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring shanks ya
barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact they bend. The
hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus I'm
going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?


Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor Freight
asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring shank nails. I
get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar with nail guns". I
get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person hesitates and says "What
exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a clipped head or something?"
I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.

I hope after 6 years the guy has his new flooring options settled!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On Tuesday, March 3, 2009 at 10:53:00 PM UTC-5, Red Green wrote:
Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of the
existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a couple
of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily to
refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated sinkers to do
so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better. OK, guy is a pro, I
asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing nails
(totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring shanks in
between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring shanks ya
barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact they bend. The
hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus I'm
going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?


Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor Freight
asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring shank nails. I
get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar with nail guns". I
get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person hesitates and says "What
exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a clipped head or something?"
I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.

On Tuesday, March 3, 2009 at 10:53:00 PM UTC-5, Red Green wrote:
Never used them before.

I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot of the
existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've done a couple
of rooms and it's good and tight.

It's been a PITA though and here's why.

When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to be
done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad temporarily to
refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d coated sinkers to do
so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be better. OK, guy is a pro, I
asked for advice so I might as well take it.

So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing nails
(totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring shanks in
between which would half the spacing. Well those damn ring shanks ya
barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square contact they bend. The
hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well they've got some wear & tear :-(

These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me. Plus I'm
going through subfloor into joists.

Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?


Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor Freight
asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring shank nails. I
get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar with nail guns". I
get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person hesitates and says "What
exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a clipped head or something?"
I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.