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Red Green Red Green is offline
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Default Underlayment Ring Shank Nails

fftt wrote in
:

On Mar 4, 7:41*pm, Red Green wrote:
Red Green wrote
innews:Xns9BC3E8C695C03RedGreen@21

6.168.3.70:



Never used them before.


I'm prepping the floors in a 30+ year old house for carpet. A lot
of the existing nails have worked loose and it creaks a lot. I've
done a couple of rooms and it's good and tight.


It's been a PITA though and here's why.


When the carpet company came out to measure and size up hat had to
be done I told them I will be pulling up the carpet and pad
temporarily to refasten the flooring. Told them I would be using 8d
coated sinkers to do so. Guy says using ring shank nails would be
better. OK, guy is a pro, I asked for advice so I might as well
take it.


So my plan is to renail with the coated 8d's near the the existing
nails (totally removing any that are loose or popped) and use ring
shanks in between which would half the spacing. Well those damn
ring shanks ya barely tap them and if it ain't perfectly square
contact they bend. The hammer is a new Estwing. They eyes, well
they've got some wear & tear :-(


These RS nails are the underlayment type and thin if you ask me.
Plus I'm going through subfloor into joists.


Is this just a lack of experience using underlayment RS nails?


Only having a roofing and finishing nailers, I had called Harbor
Freight asking them if they had a nail gun that would shoot ring
shank nails. I get "Hold on. Let me get someone on who is familiar
with nail guns". I get 2nd person and ask same thing. Person
hesitates and says "What exactly is a ring shank nail? Is it like a
clipped head or something?" I'm like uhhh, nevermind, thanks.


Decided to go at it again with a hammer today. Went quite well
actually. Guess I just had to pay more attention to body positioning
as well as learn the nails. Zipped through a 12x14 room...move
furniture, pull up half of carper/pad, verify joist locations, nail,
carpet/pad back, do same on other side then furniture back.

Never again without a nailgun. Considering the amount I had to do
(all carpeted areas) I blew a perfect justification for one. Just
wanted to get it done vs purchase research.


RG-

Could not find the description of the new hammer you bought.

I used to (YEARS ago) be able to drive 16's easily with a 24 oz smooth
face but after an extended period of "not much hammer use".......I
was no longer able to drive nails easily or consistently without
bending. A guy I was working with said "why are you struggling with
a smooth faced hammer, get yourself a milled face".

I switched to a 24 oz milled face & then to a 28 oz rigging axe. The
milled face made a huge difference and I was back to driving nails
easily, from any position or angle.

Give a decent sized (24 oz or bigger) milled face a try. Also, if
the floor boards have any spring or gap to the joists, that will make
driving more difficult.

I've got a Hitachi NR83A (FRH) that I hardly ever use now but I
recommend them as well as Senco. A used unit would be a solid
purchase.

cheers
Bob

cheers
Bob


Oh yea. I have a milled face one. Long handle Estwing. Can do some
serious driving with that on 16's. Can use in a pinch in place of a
wrecking balade on a recip saw :-) Can put a hurtin' on my arm though if
hammering above. Seriously doubt it would be any good on such low gague
nails.

Thanks for the reply...