I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar (1'x9 1/4"x
various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws because some of the new
boards are cupped and the screws will pull the boards up tight to the wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold the panel
tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non rust nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would be faster.
Any ideas? Thanks CB

Chuck wrote:

I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar (1'x9 1/4"x
various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws because some of the new
boards are cupped and the screws will pull the boards up tight to the wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold the panel
tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non rust nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would be faster.
Any ideas? Thanks CB

Use glue coated, screw shank galvanized nails. They should be available
for most nail guns.

Chuck wrote:
I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar (1'x9
1/4"x various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws because some
of the new boards are cupped and the screws will pull the boards up
tight to the wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold the
panel tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non rust nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would be
faster.

What do you have for a nailer, first?

Siding nails are normally recommended to be ring-shanked and are
available in galvanized (or stainless if you want spend the big bucks);
look at any supplier for the particular nailer, assuming of course, it's
appropriate for the purpose (that is, a finish nailer or roof mailer
aren't)...

--

Chuck wrote:
I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar (1'x9
1/4"x various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws because some
of the new boards are cupped and the screws will pull the boards up
tight to the wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold the
panel tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non rust nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would be
faster.
Any ideas? Thanks CB


Hot-dipped galvanized ring-shank nails (not sure what size you need.)
Electro-galvanized is not good enough. You can probably find stainless
steel nail sticks but that seems kind of overkill to me.

Bob

Hot-dipped galvanized ring shank or screw shank nails. This type of
nailgun (or equivalent) is recommended:
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-NV65AH.../dp/B0000225JZ

Rent the gun and buy a few coils of nails. The nails are smaller in
diameter and less likely to split the paneling. The siding nailer is
about twice the price of other framing/finish nailers and is specific
to fence pickets or siding.

On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 00:22:49 GMT, Chuck wrote:

I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar (1'x9 1/4"x
various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws because some of the new
boards are cupped and the screws will pull the boards up tight to the wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold the panel
tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non rust nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would be faster.
Any ideas? Thanks CB

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Chuck wrote:

I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar (1'x9
1/4"x
various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws because some of
the new
boards are cupped and the screws will pull the boards up tight to the
wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold the
panel
tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non rust nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would be
faster.
Any ideas? Thanks CB

Use glue coated, screw shank galvanized nails. They should be available
for most nail guns.

This is horrible advice. Never use galvanized with cedar.

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
Chuck wrote:
I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar (1'x9
1/4"x various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws because some
of the new boards are cupped and the screws will pull the boards up
tight to the wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold the
panel tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non rust
nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would be
faster.
Any ideas? Thanks CB


Hot-dipped galvanized ring-shank nails (not sure what size you need.)
Electro-galvanized is not good enough. You can probably find stainless
steel nail sticks but that seems kind of overkill to me.

Bob

Horrible advice, never used galvanized with cedar.

"Tom Kendrick" wrote in message
...
Hot-dipped galvanized ring shank or screw shank nails. This type of
nailgun (or equivalent) is recommended:
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-NV65AH.../dp/B0000225JZ

Horrible advice, never use galvanized with cedar.

"Chuck" wrote in message
...
I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar (1'x9
1/4"x various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws because some
of the new boards are cupped and the screws will pull the boards up tight
to the wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold the
panel tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non rust
nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would be
faster.
Any ideas? Thanks CB

You've gotten some really bad advice, you never use galvanized with cedar.

The zinc in galvanized nails reacts chemically with cedar and redwood. Nail
manufacturers recommend that you go with aluminum or stainless steel
fasteners when you're using either of these woods.

Look it up.

Cj wrote:
"Chuck" wrote in message
...
I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar (1'x9
1/4"x various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws because some
of the new boards are cupped and the screws will pull the boards up tight
to the wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold the
panel tight against the wall? Also can I get galvanized or non rust
nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would be
faster.
Any ideas? Thanks CB

You've gotten some really bad advice, you never use galvanized with cedar.

The zinc in galvanized nails reacts chemically with cedar and redwood. Nail
manufacturers recommend that you go with aluminum or stainless steel
fasteners when you're using either of these woods.

Look it up.


The siding that I have removed has been on the house since 1972. The builder
used galvanized nails only. All were 2 1/2 inches long and I saw no reaction
between the nails and the cedar.
Give me a reference to the info you have. Thanks...

Cj wrote:
"Chuck" wrote in message
...
I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar
(1'x9 1/4"x various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws
because some of the new boards are cupped and the screws will pull
the boards up tight to the wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold
the panel tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non
rust nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would
be faster.
Any ideas? Thanks CB

You've gotten some really bad advice, you never use galvanized with
cedar.
The zinc in galvanized nails reacts chemically with cedar and
redwood. Nail manufacturers recommend that you go with aluminum or
stainless steel fasteners when you're using either of these woods.

Look it up.

Like here?

Nails
Hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum and stainless steel nails are all
corrosion-resistant and all can be used to nail Western Red Cedar. Other
types of nails, such as electroplated, are not recommended. They can rust
and disintegrate and react adversely with the natural preservative oils
present in cedar, resulting in stains and streaks.

http://www.wrcla.org/cedarspecs/ceda.../fasteners.asp

"Chuck" wrote in message
...
The siding that I have removed has been on the house since 1972. The
builder used galvanized nails only. All were 2 1/2 inches long and I saw
no reaction between the nails and the cedar.
Give me a reference to the info you have. Thanks...

Here's one place.


http://www.oldhousejournal.com/magaz...ic/index.shtml

HeyBub wrote:
Cj wrote:
"Chuck" wrote in message
...
I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar
(1'x9 1/4"x various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws
because some of the new boards are cupped and the screws will pull
the boards up tight to the wall.
Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold
the panel tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non
rust nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would
be faster.
Any ideas? Thanks CB
You've gotten some really bad advice, you never use galvanized with
cedar.
The zinc in galvanized nails reacts chemically with cedar and
redwood. Nail manufacturers recommend that you go with aluminum or
stainless steel fasteners when you're using either of these woods.

Look it up.

Like here?

Nails
Hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum and stainless steel nails are all
corrosion-resistant and all can be used to nail Western Red Cedar. Other
types of nails, such as electroplated, are not recommended. They can rust
and disintegrate and react adversely with the natural preservative oils
present in cedar, resulting in stains and streaks.

http://www.wrcla.org/cedarspecs/ceda.../fasteners.asp



Thank you. Chuck

On Feb 12, 6:22*pm, Chuck wrote:
I need to replace some of my house outside paneling that is cedar (1'x9 1/4"x
various lengths). I was thinking of using wood screws because some of the new
boards are cupped and the screws will pull the boards up tight to the wall.
* *Can I use my nail gun? If so, are there any nails that would hold the panel
tight against the wall? Also can I get galvenized or non rust nails?
I have over 100 panels to repair or replace so a nail gun sure would be faster.
Any ideas? Thanks * CB

I would use stainless, I should have used stainless, my cedar is rust
stained where galvanised failed fast. Had to stain cedar real dark to
hide it. A few extra bucks for thousands less in future agravation.
Since mine are rusting away I guess in 10-30 the siding will fall off

Chuck wrote:
Cj wrote:
....

You've gotten some really bad advice, you never use galvanized with
cedar.

The zinc in galvanized nails reacts chemically with cedar and redwood.
Nail manufacturers recommend that you go with aluminum or stainless
steel fasteners when you're using either of these woods.

Look it up.

The siding that I have removed has been on the house since 1972. The
builder used galvanized nails only. All were 2 1/2 inches long and I saw
no reaction between the nails and the cedar.
Give me a reference to the info you have. Thanks...

Here's a pretty good description of the process of the various
galvanizing processes. Part of the problem is there's too much
similarity between the names it doesn't sound as though there should be
much difference in the results. Unfortunately, there is a significant
difference in how well/long they will last.

My personal opinion is that even the hot-dipped galvanized pneumatic
nails don't have the "stay power" of hand nails because they have to
ensure they are of more uniform size and smoothness in order to drive
w/o jamming the nailer excessively. Hence, while I have no hard data,
my feeling is the pneumatic-galvanized don't have the equivalent coating
of good quality loose nails.

http://www.askthebuilder.com/063_Rustproof_Wood_Siding_Nails.shtml

Be particularly wary of pneumatic nails galvanizing process if you go
that route -- many of them are only electroplate, especially be certain
to use a "name" brand, not some Harbor Freight or other no-name generic.

Here's a link to a page for Bostitch fasteners -- I'd double-check the
actual Bostitch catalog to make absolutely I had the correct part number
before ordering for any nailer (of course, you'll have to order
fasteners compatible w/ the particular nailer you choose). I posted
this link because it shows there's only about a 20% premium for SS which
isn't that much of a premium for near certainty.

http://www.bostonindustrial.com/wicosina.html

--

dpb wrote:
Chuck wrote:
Cj wrote:
...

You've gotten some really bad advice, you never use galvanized with
cedar.

The zinc in galvanized nails reacts chemically with cedar and
redwood. Nail manufacturers recommend that you go with aluminum or
stainless steel fasteners when you're using either of these woods.

Look it up.

The siding that I have removed has been on the house since 1972. The
builder used galvanized nails only. All were 2 1/2 inches long and I
saw no reaction between the nails and the cedar.
Give me a reference to the info you have. Thanks...

Here's a pretty good description of the process of the various
galvanizing processes. Part of the problem is there's too much
similarity between the names it doesn't sound as though there should be
much difference in the results. Unfortunately, there is a significant
difference in how well/long they will last.

My personal opinion is that even the hot-dipped galvanized pneumatic
nails don't have the "stay power" of hand nails because they have to
ensure they are of more uniform size and smoothness in order to drive
w/o jamming the nailer excessively. Hence, while I have no hard data,
my feeling is the pneumatic-galvanized don't have the equivalent coating
of good quality loose nails.

http://www.askthebuilder.com/063_Rustproof_Wood_Siding_Nails.shtml

Be particularly wary of pneumatic nails galvanizing process if you go
that route -- many of them are only electroplate, especially be certain
to use a "name" brand, not some Harbor Freight or other no-name generic.

Here's a link to a page for Bostitch fasteners -- I'd double-check the
actual Bostitch catalog to make absolutely I had the correct part number
before ordering for any nailer (of course, you'll have to order
fasteners compatible w/ the particular nailer you choose). I posted
this link because it shows there's only about a 20% premium for SS which
isn't that much of a premium for near certainty.

http://www.bostonindustrial.com/wicosina.html

--

Thanks, I will do further research. I have also received answers from
the rec.woodworking site. Interesting how many different opinions
there are. I really appreciate all the help I am getting though. Chuck

Chuck wrote:
....

Thanks, I will do further research. I have also received answers from
the rec.woodworking site. Interesting how many different opinions there
are. I really appreciate all the help I am getting though. Chuck

Yeah, you know the saying about opinions, I'm sure...

The key is how good is the galvanizing (combined w/ what the locale and
weather are plus even which side of the house it is can make all the
difference in the world as to how badly it weathers).

As noted, I don't have any way to quantify differences, but I'm quite
convinced (there go those opinions again! ) the preponderance of
imported nails has resulted in the general quality being significantly
lower than when your house was built 30 years ago or so.

Undoubtedly there are "equivalently good" available but not likely at
the Borg; we're too small to have one of the national box stores but the
chain lumber and hardware stores have nothing on the shelves that aren't
Chinese imports any longer for common fasteners (they may be indirect
via Canada or some other vendor, but if you look carefully you'll find
the country of origin is almost universally China).

As noted, the complaint (for lack of better word) on the nailer nails
vis a vis loose is simply observation of having used a bunch of both.
I've not tried to do any in-depth research to the actual specifications
of the various manufacturers such as Bostitch, Senco, Hitachi, etc., on
their various nails but I suppose it's probably out there somewhere in
their detailed catalogs.

And, of course, there are standards from the various trade organizations
and ASTM and other standards-writing/sponsoring organizations that will
define actual performance tests and criteria, etc. I've not looked into
them, either.

In short, unless it's a huge area and/or cost is a really constraining
issue, you can't go wrong w/ an extra $50 or so invested in the SS,
particularly if contrast that to the overall project cost I'd think if
you're really concerned about eventual bleeding.

--

dpb wrote:
Chuck wrote:
...

Thanks, I will do further research. I have also received answers from
the rec.woodworking site. Interesting how many different opinions
there are. I really appreciate all the help I am getting though. Chuck

Yeah, you know the saying about opinions, I'm sure...

The key is how good is the galvanizing (combined w/ what the locale and
weather are plus even which side of the house it is can make all the
difference in the world as to how badly it weathers).

As noted, I don't have any way to quantify differences, but I'm quite
convinced (there go those opinions again! ) the preponderance of
imported nails has resulted in the general quality being significantly
lower than when your house was built 30 years ago or so.

Undoubtedly there are "equivalently good" available but not likely at
the Borg; we're too small to have one of the national box stores but the
chain lumber and hardware stores have nothing on the shelves that aren't
Chinese imports any longer for common fasteners (they may be indirect
via Canada or some other vendor, but if you look carefully you'll find
the country of origin is almost universally China).

As noted, the complaint (for lack of better word) on the nailer nails
vis a vis loose is simply observation of having used a bunch of both.
I've not tried to do any in-depth research to the actual specifications
of the various manufacturers such as Bostitch, Senco, Hitachi, etc., on
their various nails but I suppose it's probably out there somewhere in
their detailed catalogs.

And, of course, there are standards from the various trade organizations
and ASTM and other standards-writing/sponsoring organizations that will
define actual performance tests and criteria, etc. I've not looked into
them, either.

In short, unless it's a huge area and/or cost is a really constraining
issue, you can't go wrong w/ an extra $50 or so invested in the SS,
particularly if contrast that to the overall project cost I'd think if
you're really concerned about eventual bleeding.

--

I am going to use stainless steel screws. The guy in the rental
section at HD said that in this area (SE Fla.) anything else will be a
problem. He has seen it happen many times. Thanks for your input. Chuck