Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

wrote:
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

Why are you staying 1" away from the corner with the roller?

Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

The effect you describe is called "hatbanding".

1. Streaking indicates insufficient coverage. Use a wider brush and
load it heavier. I like a 2"-4" sash brush. Sash brushes tend to have a
tapered end which feathers out better than a blunt end, letting you
control the edge better. After you put the paint on, drag the very end
of the hairs very lightly through the paint. This is called "tipping
off".

2. Run the the roller horizontally as close to the corner as you can
get it without putting paint on the ceiling. Make sure you have plenty
of paint on the roller. With practice and a good roller cover, you can
get within 1/4" of the corner.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

In article , wrote:
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

I've seen this problem on my current home but none of
the previous houses I have owned. Especially at the
ceiling/wall joins.

I think it's either:

1. Accumulated dirt/dust in the corners staining the
fresh paint. And/or:

2. Something to do with the materials/technique used
on the drywall. Something leaching through?

I suggest:

1. Wiping down any surface dust/dirt before painting
pay particular attention to those corners.

2. Apply a initial coat of paint, just to the corners,
and let that cure fully before proceeding.

3. In the most extreme cases, apply a coat of Kilz in
the corners before painting. If that doesn't fix
I think you have to consider the possibility that
your brushwork is less than perfect ;-)



--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

wrote:
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

Maybe it's the brush or your technique. Cutting in with a brush is for old
farts who learned during their 12-year apprenticeship (starting at age six)
and using the same brush they've used for 40 years, made from the mane of a
camel. A virgin camel. From Nepal. And who get paid by the hour.

Next time, try one of those edge painters with the little wheels.

Probably won't look any better, but you'll be able to tell quicker.

On Feb 4, 1:57*pm, wrote:
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

Then put paint on heavier or twice until you get better.

On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:13:34 +0000 (UTC), "SteveBell"
wrote:

1. Streaking indicates insufficient coverage. Use a wider brush and
load it heavier. I like a 2"-4" sash brush. Sash brushes tend to have a
tapered end which feathers out better than a blunt end, letting you
control the edge better. After you put the paint on, drag the very end
of the hairs very lightly through the paint. This is called "tipping
off".

2. Run the the roller horizontally as close to the corner as you can
get it without putting paint on the ceiling. Make sure you have plenty
of paint on the roller. With practice and a good roller cover, you can
get within 1/4" of the corner.

Two good points you made here. Both excellent.

- load the brush

- plenty of paint on the roller.

The brush has a "cup" at the metal band and handle, just at the
fibers. Many people dip into the paint and wipe if off on the side of
the container. That unloads the brush.

Over working a roller in the pan or on the wall is also a problem.

(I say, let's get the paint on the wall first, make it look pretty in
a few minutes.)

On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 15:53:06 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Next time, try one of those edge painters with the little wheels.

I bought some of these one day. My helping friend said: "If I knew
about these 20 years ago I would've been a Painter".

wrote in news:08a874b1-403d-47a5-87f8-
:

Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

I assume you mean after everything has dried overnight. Different
thicknesses of paint of course dry at different rates. The color of paint
varies with how dry it is. Wait at least 4hrs before declaring anything a
F.U. Overnight is best.


Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

Along with the other suggestions I'll toss in a couple. Make sure it's a
good quality angled sash brush. Holds paint better. 2.5" is ideal, for me
anyway. Holds plenty of paint and because it's good quality it retains
it's edge well for many years. That is providing it is cleaned between
uses and not allowed to cake up while in use.

Try running a band like 1/4"-1/2" away from the edge of each stroke/run.
Reload brush and trim to edge like normal. To me, this tends to keep the
paint on the wall vs sucking all the paint off the brush.

Feather the edge of the trim strip down the wall so there is no defined
line.

Oh, and insure you stir that paint before trimming. Don't just open the
can and start painting because it was just stirred/shaken 12 hrs ago.
I've noticed a lot lately that even decent quality paints seem to
separate rather quickly in the can.

wrote in message
...
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

Cutting in is always the PITA of the job. I use a tapered 1.5" brush, but
the angle of the brush, the stroke of the hand, and the load of the brush is
the critical part. I could show you in one minute, but couldn't tell you
here with a thousand words. Get a GOOD brush that is angled two ways. One
so that the end is not perpendicular to the shaft, and the other that the
bristles are cut in a vee when looking at the brush sideways. Not
particularly expensive, but about $10. Really worth it once you learn how
to use it. Load a good amount of paint into it, and reload when it starts
to put a weak line out. Work downward on vertical corners, and from
dominant side to undominant side: right to left for a right hander, opposite
for leftie. Lastly, you can put a pretty straight line in every corner with
one of these, and leave 1.5" painted so you don't even have to come close
with the roller.

I should put this on youtube.

Steve

"SteveB" wrote in
:


wrote in message
.
..
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the
edge, then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the
roller on the rest of the wall.

Cutting in is always the PITA of the job. I use a tapered 1.5" brush,
but the angle of the brush, the stroke of the hand, and the load of
the brush is the critical part. I could show you in one minute, but
couldn't tell you here with a thousand words. Get a GOOD brush that
is angled two ways. One so that the end is not perpendicular to the
shaft, and the other that the bristles are cut in a vee when looking
at the brush sideways. Not particularly expensive, but about $10.
Really worth it once you learn how to use it. Load a good amount of
paint into it, and reload when it starts to put a weak line out. Work
downward on vertical corners, and from dominant side to undominant
side: right to left for a right hander, opposite for leftie. Lastly,
you can put a pretty straight line in every corner with one of these,
and leave 1.5" painted so you don't even have to come close with the
roller.

I should put this on youtube.

Steve




Yea you should. Do they show how many people view it? Bet there would be
a bunch of hits. Then a bunch of people who would try it. Then a bunch of
people who F it up even though you make it look so easy. Then a bunch of
people who want to hit you.

Then I post a YT saying how I saw yours, tried it and it came out so
great on my [ahh, emmm] "first try". Show my brush zipping along a
wall/ceiling junction.

"SteveBell" wrote in message
a.org...

Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

The effect you describe is called "hatbanding".

1. Streaking indicates insufficient coverage. Use a wider brush and
load it heavier. I like a 2"-4" sash brush. Sash brushes tend to have a
tapered end which feathers out better than a blunt end, letting you
control the edge better. After you put the paint on, drag the very end
of the hairs very lightly through the paint. This is called "tipping
off".

2. Run the the roller horizontally as close to the corner as you can
get it without putting paint on the ceiling. Make sure you have plenty
of paint on the roller. With practice and a good roller cover, you can
get within 1/4" of the corner.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow Steve's
instructions....

On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:42:01 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow Steve's
instructions....

Hide the brush from the new bride. Save it for later and never, ever
let her damage it. Clean it youself.

...the top secret paint brush.. just hide it away for the time being.

Oren wrote in
:

On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:42:01 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow
Steve's instructions....

Hide the brush from the new bride. Save it for later and never, ever
let her damage it. Clean it youself.

..the top secret paint brush.. just hide it away for the time being.



Put it in a box and mark it "Used Mouse Traps". She'll probably never touch
it.

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:42:01 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow
Steve's
instructions....

Hide the brush from the new bride. Save it for later and never, ever
let her damage it. Clean it youself.

..the top secret paint brush.. just hide it away for the time being.

Why are women obsessive compulsive about cleaning everything but a paint
brush?

Steve

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:42:01 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow
Steve's
instructions....

Hide the brush from the new bride. Save it for later and never, ever
let her damage it. Clean it youself.

..the top secret paint brush.. just hide it away for the time being.

Why are women obsessive compulsive about cleaning everything but a paint
brush?

Steve


So true..I keep my collection of Purdy Brushes hidden on the TOP shelf in
the garage...LOL...She's only 5' 2"....I bought her some of her own at
HD....

Red Green wrote:
"SteveB" wrote in
:

wrote in message
.
..
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the
edge, then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the
roller on the rest of the wall.
Cutting in is always the PITA of the job. I use a tapered 1.5" brush,
but the angle of the brush, the stroke of the hand, and the load of
the brush is the critical part. I could show you in one minute, but
couldn't tell you here with a thousand words. Get a GOOD brush that
is angled two ways. One so that the end is not perpendicular to the
shaft, and the other that the bristles are cut in a vee when looking
at the brush sideways. Not particularly expensive, but about $10.
Really worth it once you learn how to use it. Load a good amount of
paint into it, and reload when it starts to put a weak line out. Work
downward on vertical corners, and from dominant side to undominant
side: right to left for a right hander, opposite for leftie. Lastly,
you can put a pretty straight line in every corner with one of these,
and leave 1.5" painted so you don't even have to come close with the
roller.

I should put this on youtube.

Steve




Yea you should. Do they show how many people view it? Bet there would be
a bunch of hits. Then a bunch of people who would try it. Then a bunch of
people who F it up even though you make it look so easy. Then a bunch of
people who want to hit you.

Then I post a YT saying how I saw yours, tried it and it came out so
great on my [ahh, emmm] "first try". Show my brush zipping along a
wall/ceiling junction.

Knew there was a reason I preferred to cover everything with the same
semi-flat white- no transitions, no problems....

--
aem sends...

In article
,
wrote:

Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

For corners where one wall meets another wall and they're the same
color, you could try a corner roller. That's what I use, and it works
pretty well. Paints both surfaces simultaneously and because it's a
roller, the texture matches the rest of the rolled-on paint.

Smitty Two wrote in newsrestwhich-
:

In article
,
wrote:

Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

For corners where one wall meets another wall and they're the same
color, you could try a corner roller. That's what I use, and it works
pretty well. Paints both surfaces simultaneously and because it's a
roller, the texture matches the rest of the rolled-on paint.


Boy oh boy. All these gizmos. Corner rollers, pads with wheels, funny
looking foam brushes, As Seen on TV stuff, etc.

If it isn't painted with a roller it gets painted with a brush. Hell, I
even painted an old pickup of mine with a brush and Rustoleum Rusty Metal
Primer. Dries fast if ya take a ride on the interstate. OK so it gets a
little textured. Sure, I could have used spray cans or a roller but that
wouldn't have been as much fun.

Red Green wrote:

Boy oh boy. All these gizmos. Corner rollers, pads with wheels, funny
looking foam brushes, As Seen on TV stuff, etc.

If it isn't painted with a roller it gets painted with a brush. Hell,
I even painted an old pickup of mine with a brush and Rustoleum Rusty
Metal Primer. Dries fast if ya take a ride on the interstate. OK so
it gets a little textured. Sure, I could have used spray cans or a
roller but that wouldn't have been as much fun.

Reminds me of a tip:

If at all possible, select the target color from the vast selection of spray
paints at the box store. Spray some on a (free) wooden store-proved
paint-stirring stick. Give the stick to the clerk and ask for some gallons
of paint to match.

Thereafter, when some touch-up is necessary, it's a simple matter to shake
and squirt rather than all the fussing necessary with congealed paint,
another trip to the paint store, brushes, clean-up etc.

On Feb 4, 2:57*pm, wrote:
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

Is it possible you're taking too long after cutting in the corner with
the brush to hit it with the roller? One of the mistakes I used to
make was cutting in all my edges and corners and then going back and
rolling, which always-always-always gave me the finish you describe.
One way to tackle it is to cut the corner or edge quickly, then
immediately roll that area. Tag-team painting with someone else will
make this an order of magnitude easier.

And, to reinforce what others have said, don't be afraid to put a
little paint on the wall. Heavier is betters, especially since you'll
be going over it with a roller to even it out.

You are more likely to get this look using colors as opposed to beige-
eggshell-antique white, and more likely to see it with satin and
eggshell finishes than with flat. I know from recent experience that
shinier finishes show every stinking flaw, missed drip, ding in the
wall...grrr. It frustrates a perfectionist like me, which drives my
wife crazy with my constant wanting to "fix it". We just have to live
with our flaws.

For post-ers who suggested using the sponge pad with wheels, remember,
that's fine for the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling, but
won't work in corners. Even if the whiskery bristles on the pad make
it all the way to the corner, when you turn the corner the wheels will
get paint on them from the wall you just painted.

An alternative to using an edger is to put up a border. No, I'm not
suggesting wallpaper! (shudder). But if you have the inclination, some
stenciling looks particularly cool in certain room situations.

And take solace in knowing the more you paint, the more comfortable
you'll get running the roller right up to the corner or edge and
getting a nice, tight rolled finish.

HeyBub wrote:
Red Green wrote:
Boy oh boy. All these gizmos. Corner rollers, pads with wheels, funny
looking foam brushes, As Seen on TV stuff, etc.

If it isn't painted with a roller it gets painted with a brush. Hell,
I even painted an old pickup of mine with a brush and Rustoleum Rusty
Metal Primer. Dries fast if ya take a ride on the interstate. OK so
it gets a little textured. Sure, I could have used spray cans or a
roller but that wouldn't have been as much fun.

Reminds me of a tip:

If at all possible, select the target color from the vast selection of spray
paints at the box store. Spray some on a (free) wooden store-proved
paint-stirring stick. Give the stick to the clerk and ask for some gallons
of paint to match.

Thereafter, when some touch-up is necessary, it's a simple matter to shake
and squirt rather than all the fussing necessary with congealed paint,
another trip to the paint store, brushes, clean-up etc.


No need to go to all of that trouble...just choose a paint, any kind:
latex, alkyd, gloss, flat. Buy a Preval sprayer, cost about $4. The
sprayer comes as a kit, and additional air cannisters can be purchased.
The jar is 8 oz. and comes with a separate lid for storing paint. Nice
for finer work, like louvers, and for craft projects. Need to thin
paint slightly to use in the sprayer. I used the Preval when I
repainted a very old range hood - Rustoleum enamel, looks like new.
Painted in place, with a little bit of aluminum foil and plastic to
shield the surrounding cabinets.

On Feb 4, 10:20*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:42:01 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow Steve's
instructions....

Hide the brush from the new bride. Save it for later and never, ever
let her damage it. Clean it youself.

..the top secret paint brush.. just hide it away for the time being.

Hmpf. I hide my Purdy brushes from my husband.

Cindy Hamilton

On Feb 4, 1:57*pm, wrote:
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

Taking the time to mask all the woodwork in a room actually makes the
overall job time decrease for these reasons:

1) You can do the cuts in without having to be careful about the
woodwork
2) You can roll within a quarter inch of the trim or sometimes right
up to the trim depending on the trim shape faster, looks better
3) If you are leaving the ceiling white oodles of time is saved
4) Less time having to grab the rag to wipe drips off the woodwork

I fire any painters that want to come do my jobs and they dont bother
mask fully all the wood work edges. Nothing ****es me off more
painting-wise than when the lines where wood meets wall are not
absolutely perfectly straight.

On 2/4/2009 7:45 PM SteveB spake thus:

"Oren" wrote in message
...

On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:42:01 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow
Steve's instructions....

Hide the brush from the new bride. Save it for later and never, ever
let her damage it. Clean it youself.

..the top secret paint brush.. just hide it away for the time being.

Why are women obsessive compulsive about cleaning everything but a paint
brush?

Enough with the stupid gender stereotypes.

I have a client who's not only a better painter than I, but also takes
better care of her paintbrushes (and I take pretty damn good care of mine).


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair

On Feb 4, 1:57*pm, wrote:
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

Excellent tips in this discussion. Might add one more item, when
nothing seems to help the situation, try using some Penetrol with oil
based or Floetrol with latex products. There are times when
temperatures and humidity, whatever, conspire against a good job. pros
in our area are very fond of these for speeding the job along.

Joe

On Feb 4, 4:13*pm, "SteveBell" wrote:
The effect you describe is called "hatbanding".

At least I know what to call it.

1. Streaking indicates insufficient coverage. Use a wider brush and
load it heavier. I like a 2"-4" sash brush. Sash brushes tend to have a
tapered end which feathers out better than a blunt end, letting you
control the edge better. After you put the paint on, drag the very end
of the hairs very lightly through the paint. This is called "tipping
off".

As I said earlier in my post, SEVERAL COATS above and beyond the rest
of the wall and I still have the effect. I'm slobbering on as much
paint as will stick without running.

Dragging the end of the brush lightly through the paint only
accentuates the problem. Leaves streaks.

2. Run the the roller horizontally as close to the corner as you can
get it without putting paint on the ceiling. Make sure you have plenty
of paint on the roller. With practice and a good roller cover, you can
get within 1/4" of the corner.

Even at 1/4" I still get the effect, and painting that close I'm too
much of a spaz to keep from getting paint on the adjoining wall or
ceiling.

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Why are women obsessive compulsive about cleaning everything but a
paint brush?

Enough with the stupid gender stereotypes.

I have a client who's not only a better painter than I, but also takes
better care of her paintbrushes (and I take pretty damn good care of
mine).

Stereotypes - gender or otherwise - allow you to see the forest instead of a
million individual trees.

If you ask a typical female to describe a "sensuous" experience, high on the
list will be a bubble-bath with enough incense and candles to make one think
the tub was a religious shrine.

Ask a man the same thing, and he'll say a hunting trip in the woods with no
bathing and shaving (or even changing clothes) for a week.

Women are fundamentally CLEAN creatures; Men are genetically dirty, smelly
animals.

There are exceptions, such as happily married men.

wrote:
HeyBub wrote:
Red Green wrote:
Boy oh boy. All these gizmos. Corner rollers, pads with wheels,
funny looking foam brushes, As Seen on TV stuff, etc.

If it isn't painted with a roller it gets painted with a brush.
Hell, I even painted an old pickup of mine with a brush and
Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. Dries fast if ya take a ride on the
interstate. OK so it gets a little textured. Sure, I could have
used spray cans or a roller but that wouldn't have been as much fun.

Reminds me of a tip:

If at all possible, select the target color from the vast selection
of spray paints at the box store. Spray some on a (free) wooden
store-proved paint-stirring stick. Give the stick to the clerk and
ask for some gallons of paint to match.

Thereafter, when some touch-up is necessary, it's a simple matter to
shake and squirt rather than all the fussing necessary with
congealed paint, another trip to the paint store, brushes, clean-up
etc.
No need to go to all of that trouble...just choose a paint, any kind:
latex, alkyd, gloss, flat. Buy a Preval sprayer, cost about $4. The
sprayer comes as a kit, and additional air cannisters can be
purchased. The jar is 8 oz. and comes with a separate lid for storing
paint. Nice for finer work, like louvers, and for craft projects. Need to
thin paint slightly to use in the sprayer. I used the Preval
when I repainted a very old range hood - Rustoleum enamel, looks like
new. Painted in place, with a little bit of aluminum foil and plastic
to shield the surrounding cabinets.

Thanks for the tip -- Neat product.

wrote:
HeyBub wrote:
Red Green wrote:
Boy oh boy. All these gizmos. Corner rollers, pads with wheels,
funny looking foam brushes, As Seen on TV stuff, etc.

If it isn't painted with a roller it gets painted with a brush.
Hell, I even painted an old pickup of mine with a brush and
Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. Dries fast if ya take a ride on the
interstate. OK so it gets a little textured. Sure, I could have
used spray cans or a roller but that wouldn't have been as much fun.

Reminds me of a tip:

If at all possible, select the target color from the vast selection
of spray paints at the box store. Spray some on a (free) wooden
store-proved paint-stirring stick. Give the stick to the clerk and
ask for some gallons of paint to match.

Thereafter, when some touch-up is necessary, it's a simple matter to
shake and squirt rather than all the fussing necessary with
congealed paint, another trip to the paint store, brushes, clean-up
etc.
No need to go to all of that trouble...just choose a paint, any kind:
latex, alkyd, gloss, flat. Buy a Preval sprayer, cost about $4. The
sprayer comes as a kit, and additional air cannisters can be
purchased. The jar is 8 oz. and comes with a separate lid for storing
paint. Nice for finer work, like louvers, and for craft projects. Need to
thin paint slightly to use in the sprayer. I used the Preval
when I repainted a very old range hood - Rustoleum enamel, looks like
new. Painted in place, with a little bit of aluminum foil and plastic
to shield the surrounding cabinets.

In fact, to get back to the original topic, one could use the Preval device
to cut in corners. Simply hold a bit of carboard over the area not to be
painted, and spray away!

"benick" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:42:01 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow
Steve's
instructions....

Hide the brush from the new bride. Save it for later and never, ever
let her damage it. Clean it youself.

..the top secret paint brush.. just hide it away for the time being.

Why are women obsessive compulsive about cleaning everything but a paint
brush?

Steve


So true..I keep my collection of Purdy Brushes hidden on the TOP shelf in
the garage...LOL...She's only 5' 2"....I bought her some of her own at
HD....

That is hilarious. My wife is 5'0". Whenever I want to hide ANYTHING from
her, I just put it above eye level. I could sit a pinata on top of the
fridge, and she'd NEVER notice it. And I've told her that I hide things up.

Steve

On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:42:01 -0500, "benick"
wrote:


"SteveBell" wrote in message
la.org...

Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

The effect you describe is called "hatbanding".

1. Streaking indicates insufficient coverage. Use a wider brush and
load it heavier. I like a 2"-4" sash brush. Sash brushes tend to have a
tapered end which feathers out better than a blunt end, letting you
control the edge better. After you put the paint on, drag the very end
of the hairs very lightly through the paint. This is called "tipping
off".

2. Run the the roller horizontally as close to the corner as you can
get it without putting paint on the ceiling. Make sure you have plenty
of paint on the roller. With practice and a good roller cover, you can
get within 1/4" of the corner.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow Steve's
instructions....
ANd make sure you are using the RIGHT kind of bristles. DO NOT use a
natural bristle brush with Latex. You want a good synthetic brush with
"flagged" tips -the end of the bristle has "split ends".

On Wed, 04 Feb 2009 19:20:21 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:42:01 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow Steve's
instructions....

Hide the brush from the new bride. Save it for later and never, ever
let her damage it. Clean it youself.

..the top secret paint brush.. just hide it away for the time being.

Paint pads work pretty good for "cutting in" too, as do foam corner
rollers (not so good for edging to the ceiling)
When we did the last painting at our place we used an edger pad, which
left about 1/16 to 1/8" unpainted next to the (popcorn textured)
ceiling - then I just went around with an artist's brush (polyester
watercolour brush, not sable) and finished it up. When it was all dry
you couldn't see it at all.

On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 10:11:10 -0500, "
wrote:

HeyBub wrote:
Red Green wrote:
Boy oh boy. All these gizmos. Corner rollers, pads with wheels, funny
looking foam brushes, As Seen on TV stuff, etc.

If it isn't painted with a roller it gets painted with a brush. Hell,
I even painted an old pickup of mine with a brush and Rustoleum Rusty
Metal Primer. Dries fast if ya take a ride on the interstate. OK so
it gets a little textured. Sure, I could have used spray cans or a
roller but that wouldn't have been as much fun.

Reminds me of a tip:

If at all possible, select the target color from the vast selection of spray
paints at the box store. Spray some on a (free) wooden store-proved
paint-stirring stick. Give the stick to the clerk and ask for some gallons
of paint to match.

Thereafter, when some touch-up is necessary, it's a simple matter to shake
and squirt rather than all the fussing necessary with congealed paint,
another trip to the paint store, brushes, clean-up etc.


No need to go to all of that trouble...just choose a paint, any kind:
latex, alkyd, gloss, flat. Buy a Preval sprayer, cost about $4. The
sprayer comes as a kit, and additional air cannisters can be purchased.
The jar is 8 oz. and comes with a separate lid for storing paint. Nice
for finer work, like louvers, and for craft projects. Need to thin
paint slightly to use in the sprayer. I used the Preval when I
repainted a very old range hood - Rustoleum enamel, looks like new.
Painted in place, with a little bit of aluminum foil and plastic to
shield the surrounding cabinets.
For half the cost of the air cans to do a relatively small job you
can buy a cheap compressor and a decent airbrush. The preval is/was a
dissapointment. Ofter putting about 2 or 3 cans of propellant through
it I bought a cheap Badger hobby airbrush and a fitting to connect it
to a tire. Used my set of snow-tires for most of an afternoon's detail
painting.

I now have a compressor with a 15 gallon tank, and a Princess Auto
(kinda like Northern Tool) touchup gun. Painted all my shutters, the
front door, and the garage door this past summer.

On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 11:54:48 -0800 (PST), Joe wrote:

On Feb 4, 1:57Â*pm, wrote:
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.

Excellent tips in this discussion. Might add one more item, when
nothing seems to help the situation, try using some Penetrol with oil
based or Floetrol with latex products. There are times when
temperatures and humidity, whatever, conspire against a good job. pros
in our area are very fond of these for speeding the job along.

Joe
FloeTrol ROCKS.

On Feb 4, 1:57�pm, wrote:
Here's one that's been bugging me for a while.

When I paint a room, I cut in the edges and corners with a brush. The
edges always look streaky and discolored compared to the rest of the
wall.

Using name brand paint and a narrow high-dollar brush. I'm not saying
which paint because someone will inevitably say, "Well there's your
problem right there... Brand XXX paint is no good. Get brand YYY."

You've got this beautiful roller texture up to about 1" from the edge,
then spooge. Even cutting in with 5-6 coats vs. 1-2 with the roller on
the rest of the wall.


For what its worth, I was surprised tio find that the one product I
used for corners (especially eilings) that was easier than anything
else, and actually effective, was called a "SHUR Roller" (I hope I got
the name right). It is a pretty gimmicky-looking thing. It has a
guard that flips into place next to a 2.5"-3" roller after you load
it, and you run your corner. It gives a roller finish and a crisp
edge of you're careful with it.

It looks like an "As Seen On TV" product, but I was very impressed
with my own results. More important, my wife was impressed as well.

On Feb 4, 4:13*pm, "SteveBell" wrote:
The effect you describe is called "hatbanding".

At least I know what to call it.

1. Streaking indicates insufficient coverage. Use a wider brush and
load it heavier. I like a 2"-4" sash brush. Sash brushes tend to
have a tapered end which feathers out better than a blunt end,
letting you control the edge better. After you put the paint on,
drag the very end of the hairs very lightly through the paint.
This is called "tipping off".

As I said earlier in my post, SEVERAL COATS above and beyond the rest
of the wall and I still have the effect. I'm slobbering on as much
paint as will stick without running.

Dragging the end of the brush lightly through the paint only
accentuates the problem. Leaves streaks.

Oh. We have a terminology conflict. What you're calling streaks are
actually brush marks. Streaks means (to me) that you can still see the
old color through the paint. If brush marks don't go away, your paint
is too thick. You can thin it a bit (_only_ a bit), or you can add
Floetrol (Penetrol for oil paint). Floetrol increases the surface
tension, thins the paint, and slows down the drying so the paint lies
down flatter, hiding the brush marks.

2. Run the the roller horizontally as close to the corner as you
can get it without putting paint on the ceiling. Make sure you
have plenty of paint on the roller. With practice and a good
roller cover, you can get within 1/4" of the corner.

Even at 1/4" I still get the effect, and painting that close I'm too
much of a spaz to keep from getting paint on the adjoining wall or
ceiling.

Well, a thinner paint will help some, but there's no way to completely
eliminate the hatbanding without using the same device to apply the
entire surface, whether it's a brush, a roller, or a sprayer.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

On Feb 4, 4:13*pm, "SteveBell" wrote:
The effect you describe is called "hatbanding".

At least I know what to call it.

1. Streaking indicates insufficient coverage. Use a wider brush and
load it heavier. I like a 2"-4" sash brush. Sash brushes tend to
have a tapered end which feathers out better than a blunt end,
letting you control the edge better. After you put the paint on,
drag the very end of the hairs very lightly through the paint.
This is called "tipping off".

As I said earlier in my post, SEVERAL COATS above and beyond the rest
of the wall and I still have the effect. I'm slobbering on as much
paint as will stick without running.

Dragging the end of the brush lightly through the paint only
accentuates the problem. Leaves streaks.

Oh. We have a terminology conflict. What you're calling streaks are
actually brush marks. Streaks means (to me) that you can still see the
old color through the paint. If brush marks don't go away, your paint
is too thick. You can thin it a bit (_only_ a bit), or you can add
Floetrol (Penetrol for oil paint). Floetrol increases the surface
tension, thins the paint, and slows down the drying so the paint lies
down flatter, hiding the brush marks.

2. Run the the roller horizontally as close to the corner as you
can get it without putting paint on the ceiling. Make sure you
have plenty of paint on the roller. With practice and a good
roller cover, you can get within 1/4" of the corner.

Even at 1/4" I still get the effect, and painting that close I'm too
much of a spaz to keep from getting paint on the adjoining wall or
ceiling.

Well, a thinner paint will help some, but there's no way to completely
eliminate the hatbanding without using the same device to apply the
entire surface, whether it's a brush, a roller, or a sprayer.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

In article g,
"SteveBell" wrote:

If brush marks don't go away, your paint
is too thick.

Or you're working the paint too long.

Cindy Hamilton wrote in
:

On Feb 4, 10:20*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:42:01 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

Ditto...Get yourself a 2 and a half inch Purdy Sash brush and follow
Ste
ve's
instructions....

Hide the brush from the new bride. Save it for later and never, ever
let her damage it. Clean it youself.

..the top secret paint brush.. just hide it away for the time being.

Hmpf. I hide my Purdy brushes from my husband.

Cindy Hamilton


LOL, that's gotta hurt when we use them for Chip Brushes.