Hello,

I'm in the process of making the following project and would like some
advice on how to go about rounding over some of the edges of the pieces.

http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/cgi-b...71215103612161

If word wrap causes a problem, the project can be seen by searching for plan
W2232 at www.meiselwoodhobby.com

The stock is only 3/4" pine, so I don't think that rounding over the edges
with a router would be the correct method to use. Too great of a chance for
tear out. Also, due to its design, it would be hard to access all of the
edges that way. Not that all edges need to be rounded over, but it would
make it easier to "decorate" them according to the particular holiday.

With that in mind, I thought of just filing over the particular edges as
long as I don't use a file that's too aggressive. Another thought would be
to simply use a sanding block with 120 grit sandpaper and just break the
edges. Any suggestions?

I realize that this isn't rocket science. It's just that I don't want to
ruin the project at this stage and have to start all over again. I would
like to have it ready by Christmas. All of the parts have already been cut
out and just need to be assembled and painted, which can begin once I figure
out how to round over the edges.

Thanks in advance to those who post a reply to the group.

Peter.

Peter Bogiatzidis wrote:
Hello,

I'm in the process of making the following project and would like some
advice on how to go about rounding over some of the edges of the pieces.

http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/cgi-b...71215103612161

If word wrap causes a problem, the project can be seen by searching for plan
W2232 at www.meiselwoodhobby.com

The stock is only 3/4" pine, so I don't think that rounding over the edges
with a router would be the correct method to use. Too great of a chance for
tear out. Also, due to its design, it would be hard to access all of the
edges that way. Not that all edges need to be rounded over, but it would
make it easier to "decorate" them according to the particular holiday.

With that in mind, I thought of just filing over the particular edges as
long as I don't use a file that's too aggressive. Another thought would be
to simply use a sanding block with 120 grit sandpaper and just break the
edges. Any suggestions?

I realize that this isn't rocket science. It's just that I don't want to
ruin the project at this stage and have to start all over again. I would
like to have it ready by Christmas. All of the parts have already been cut
out and just need to be assembled and painted, which can begin once I figure
out how to round over the edges.

Thanks in advance to those who post a reply to the group.

Peter.



I wish that site had been around when I
had kids. "Make your own children and
decorate them with size 18 month clothes
which you can pick up inexpensively at
garage sales." Helliuva lot easier than
raising them for real.

Anyway, I found this. It might be a bit
of a rush to get them shipped in time
for Xmas, but you may also find them
locally. I think this kind of thing is
what you're looking for. Or you could
use any or the other ideas you talked
about above. This might be a bit cleaner
on the final product.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,41182,41200

FWIW, I'd use a router. Sometimes
tearout can be an issue at the ends, but
if you use a guide pin and/or a decent
way to hold the small parts, it
shouldn't be a problem. However, that
Lee Valley tool will eliminate the danger.

--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

"Peter Bogiatzidis" wrote

With that in mind, I thought of just filing over the particular edges as
long as I don't use a file that's too aggressive. Another thought would be
to simply use a sanding block with 120 grit sandpaper and just break the
edges. Any suggestions?

The proper tool would be a pattern maker's rasp, but a good one would cost
three times the cost of the "kids" at W2232.

Sandpaper is probably your best bet to "roundover" without causing damage
that you can't fix, starting at 60 to 80 grit, and going up to 150 - 180
.... if all you really want to do is "break the edges", start and end with
220 grit.

Practice first on a piece of scrap and see which grits give you the best
bang for the buck on your wood as far a time involved, and desired
smoothness of the edges.

The quality of the sandpaper will make a big difference. Norton's 3X is
available at most big box stores and is an excellent consumer grade
sandpaper.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Sat, 15 Dec 2007 17:02:45 GMT, "Peter Bogiatzidis"
wrote:

Hello,

I'm in the process of making the following project and would like some
advice on how to go about rounding over some of the edges of the pieces.

The stock is only 3/4" pine, so I don't think that rounding over the edges
with a router would be the correct method to use. Too great of a chance for
tear out. Also, due to its design, it would be hard to access all of the
edges that way. Not that all edges need to be rounded over, but it would
make it easier to "decorate" them according to the particular holiday.

As "busy" as those silhouettes are, I think a router makes absolute
sense. Sure, you may wind up having to do some manual work as follow
up, but if you think about it, those relatively inaccessible places
aren't likely to snag cloth, either.

The key is to use a small radius bit (1/8" or 1/4", I would think) and
even at that, don't take the full profile--just use enough to soften
the edge--maybe 2/3rds of it.

With that in mind, I thought of just filing over the particular edges as
long as I don't use a file that's too aggressive. Another thought would be
to simply use a sanding block with 120 grit sandpaper and just break the
edges. Any suggestions?

File, sanding block--that's a lot of work. You'll still want to do
some, perhaps, as described above, but I'd do the bulk of it with the
router.


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

On Sat, 15 Dec 2007 17:28:30 +0000, LRod
wrote:

On Sat, 15 Dec 2007 17:02:45 GMT, "Peter Bogiatzidis"
wrote:

Forgot to mention (Tarus reminded me); for those areas where you're
really worried about tear out (and that should be quite rare if you
follow my advice in the above post) you can always climb cut the
at-risk areas. The very small "bite" of the small radius bit won't be
agressive enough to affect your control of the router, and it will
reduce the risk of tear out to virtually nil.


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

On Dec 15, 5:31�pm, LRod wrote:
On Sat, 15 Dec 2007 17:28:30 +0000, LRod
wrote:

On Sat, 15 Dec 2007 17:02:45 GMT, "Peter Bogiatzidis"
wrote:

Forgot to mention (Tarus reminded me); for those areas where you're
really worried about tear out (and that should be quite rare if you
follow my advice in the above post) you can always climb cut the
at-risk areas. The very small "bite" of the small radius bit won't be
agressive enough to affect your control of the router, and it will
reduce the risk of tear out to virtually nil.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.nethttp://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

You haven't really said how much rounding over you need and how much
material you will be removing. If it's a small amount, I've always
had good results with a small detail sander which is controllable and
versatile due to different grits available. Maybe something like

http://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-Detail-S...7745074&sr=8-8

FoggyTown

On Sat, 15 Dec 2007 17:31:41 +0000, LRod
wrote:
Forgot to mention (Tarus reminded me); for those areas where you're
really worried about tear out (and that should be quite rare if you
follow my advice in the above post) you can always climb cut the
at-risk areas. The very small "bite" of the small radius bit won't be
agressive enough to affect your control of the router, and it will
reduce the risk of tear out to virtually nil.

I always climb cut my small roundovers and chamfers. Nothing at all
to worry about, with perfect results.