I have a problem with my clothes washer overflowing the 1.5"
standpipe. I've read that others have this problem. In the past,
chemical clog removers have been ineffectual at clearing the lint and
soap which (I assume) is partially responsible for the backup. I've
tried snaking past the trap and never been successful. I've paid for
a plumber a couple times and he's been able to get it snaked out
enough that it works for a year or so before clogging again. Even
after snaking it I've had to rig up a system that hold the washer hose
up as far as possible out of the standpipe, in order to give it more
time to fill and reduce tendency to backup when the water first starts
flowing.

Recently it started backing up again. I've done some 'net research
and come up with a sort of solution that seems to work. I want to
bounce it off others in case there's a problem here I'm not seeing.

Using a hose clamp, I've attached a 12" length of clear hose to the
washer output hose. Using another hose clamp I restricted the clear
hose down to something a bit smaller than the 1" diameter of the
washer output hose. There's enough clear hose left after the second
hose clamp that I can stuff it about 2" down into the standpipe. The
outer diameter of the clear hose is almost the same as the inner
diameter of the standpipe, creating a nearly airtight fit. Watching
the washer drain through the clear hose, it appears to me that: (1)
the water backs up between washer output hose and the hose clamp
restriction, but not for very long. At the end of each flush cycle
there appears to be plenty of time when barely any water is being
pumped through the clear hose, which makes me think it's not backing
up significantly upstream of the restriction. (2) The standpipe is
still backing up somewhat, but the tight fit between the clear hose
and the standpipe results in minimal leakage.

My questions:

1. Does anyone see a problem with this? Is there any potential
problem caused by the fact that system is essentially closed
(airtight) from the washer to the standpipe?

2. This system does nothing to alleviate the lint/soap buildup
problem. Is there a product I could use which would do a better job
of clearing the clog than the chlorine-based products I've tried in
the past? [obvious answer is a snake, though I haven't personally had
any success with the snake here in the past].

3. Some washers have internal lint catchers. Our washer has nothing to
collect lint inside the washer. We've tried metal mesh lint filters
at the washer output before but they clog up so fast that they cause
an overflow after 2-3 washings. Anyone know of an aftermarket
internal lint catcher?

4. Is there something I'm missing that I should be asking?

-Scott

On 2009-01-06, SMcK wrote:

1. Does anyone see a problem with this? Is there any potential
problem caused by the fact that system is essentially closed
(airtight) from the washer to the standpipe?

I believe this can allow the trap to siphon empty, with the associated
problems.

4. Is there something I'm missing that I should be asking?

Can you upgrade the washer drain plumbing to the now-standard 2"?
This is the best long term solution.

Cheers, Wayne

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 12:15:11 -0800 (PST), SMcK
wrote:


I have a problem with my clothes washer overflowing the 1.5"
standpipe. ...

I agree with the prior response in suggesting your plane is
not likely code and could create some bigger problems.

I would suggest biting the bullet and do it right. New 2"
pipe. I'd bet the inside of the existing pipe is now rough and that
is catching the lint causing the back up. It is also possible that
any horizontal sections may not be properly angled and that is also
causing a problem.

Do it once right and you will not be back here with the same
problem.

On Jan 6, 3:34*pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2009-01-06, SMcK wrote:

1. Does anyone see a problem with this? *Is there any potential
problem caused by the fact that system is essentially closed
(airtight) from the washer to the standpipe?

I believe this can allow the trap to siphon empty, with the associated
problems.


Thanks for the response. For my own educational purposes, can you
tell me what the "associated problems" might be?


4. Is there something I'm missing that I should be asking?

Can you upgrade the washer drain plumbing to the now-standard 2"?
This is the best long term solution.

I could do that but I imagine it would be costly. It would involve
taking out the drywall behind the washer in the laundy closet to get
access to the pipe at one end, and probably removing the drywall,
under and behind the kitchen sink and surrounding counter and drawers,
where this pipe connects in to the main waste pipe. With three cars
on their last legs and a daughter about to enter college, this is an
expense I'd like to avoid.

What if I were to build the standpipe up higher and find a way to
restrict the flow into the standpipe while still allowing some venting
at the top of the standpipe?

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks Wayne.

-Scott

On Jan
6, 2:15*pm, SMcK wrote:

snip

My best guesses about the problem a (pick as many as you like)
1) Your standpipe is too small. 2" is now code.
2) Your standpipe is too low. Read your appliance manual or call
customer service at Whirlpool or wherever for right height.
3) Your plumbing system is a hack job with improper venting. The air
in the standpipe has to have an easy exit or you get overflow. Do it
over right. Look for blockages.
4) Your washer is a poor design from the get-go. Replace the pitiful
thing as soon as you can with a model that gets good reviews in
Consumer Reports or other sources you trust. No washer should be such
a lint generator.
Don't try to bypass the laws of physics and plain common sense. Some
or all of the above may help with the issues. Good luck.

Joe

On Jan 6, 12:15*pm, SMcK wrote:
I have a problem with my clothes washer overflowing the 1.5"
standpipe. *I've read that others have this problem. *In the past,
chemical clog removers have been ineffectual at clearing the lint and
soap which (I assume) is partially responsible for the backup. *I've
tried snaking past the trap and never been successful. *I've paid for
a plumber a couple times and he's been able to get it snaked out
enough that it works for a year or so before clogging again. *Even
after snaking it I've had to rig up a system that hold the washer hose
up as far as possible out of the standpipe, in order to give it more
time to fill and reduce tendency to backup when the water first starts
flowing.

Recently it started backing up again. *I've done some 'net research
and come up with a sort of solution that seems to work. *I want to
bounce it off others in case there's a problem here I'm not seeing.

Using a hose clamp, I've attached a 12" length of clear hose to the
washer output hose. Using another hose clamp I restricted the clear
hose down to something a bit smaller than the 1" diameter of the
washer output hose. *There's enough clear hose left after the second
hose clamp that I can stuff it about 2" down into the standpipe. *The
outer diameter of the clear hose is almost the same as the inner
diameter of the standpipe, creating a nearly airtight fit. *Watching
the washer drain through the clear hose, it appears to me that: (1)
the water backs up between washer output hose and the hose clamp
restriction, but not for very long. *At the end of each flush cycle
there appears to be plenty of time when barely any water is being
pumped through the clear hose, which makes me think it's not backing
up significantly upstream of the restriction. (2) The standpipe is
still backing up somewhat, but the tight fit between the clear hose
and the standpipe results in minimal leakage.

My questions:

1. Does anyone see a problem with this? *Is there any potential
problem caused by the fact that system is essentially closed
(airtight) from the washer to the standpipe?

2. This system does nothing to alleviate the lint/soap buildup
problem. *Is there a product I could use which would do a better job
of clearing the clog than the chlorine-based products I've tried in
the past? *[obvious answer is a snake, though I haven't personally had
any success with the snake here in the past].

3. Some washers have internal lint catchers. Our washer has nothing to
collect lint inside the washer. *We've tried metal mesh lint filters
at the washer output before but they clog up so fast that they cause
an overflow after 2-3 washings. * Anyone know of an aftermarket
internal lint catcher?

4. Is there something I'm missing that I should be asking?

-Scott

Scott-

As nearly all the posts have stated...your washer drain plumbing is
inadequate / barely adequate...... plan for replacement.

Does a clean out not exist for the line?

But in the meantime, since snaking has "fixed" the problem for a
reasonable amount of time.

Try this stuff

Zep Drain Cleaner

http://www.amazon.com/Zep-DC-16-18OZ.../dp/B000AXDLAI

Home Depot & Ace Hardware (at least in SoCal) sell it

I've used it for YEARS in dozens of drains in multiple
homes.........with great success.
Works best to keep drains working or on "slow" drains.....not great
for stopped drains.
Try it every night & every morning for a few days. Follow the
directions. For less than $10...you might just get lucky.

cheers
Bob

Try extending the pipe up about 2 feet. When mine had suds backing
out, I extended it with a piece and it stopped. Most washers are
capable of pumping out 8 feet upward.

On Jan 6, 3:15*pm, SMcK wrote:
I have a problem with my clothes washer overflowing the 1.5"
standpipe. *I've read that others have this problem. *In the past,
chemical clog removers have been ineffectual at clearing the lint and
soap which (I assume) is partially responsible for the backup. *I've
tried snaking past the trap and never been successful. *I've paid for
a plumber a couple times and he's been able to get it snaked out
enough that it works for a year or so before clogging again. *Even
after snaking it I've had to rig up a system that hold the washer hose
up as far as possible out of the standpipe, in order to give it more
time to fill and reduce tendency to backup when the water first starts
flowing.

Recently it started backing up again. *I've done some 'net research
and come up with a sort of solution that seems to work. *I want to
bounce it off others in case there's a problem here I'm not seeing.

Using a hose clamp, I've attached a 12" length of clear hose to the
washer output hose. Using another hose clamp I restricted the clear
hose down to something a bit smaller than the 1" diameter of the
washer output hose. *There's enough clear hose left after the second
hose clamp that I can stuff it about 2" down into the standpipe. *The
outer diameter of the clear hose is almost the same as the inner
diameter of the standpipe, creating a nearly airtight fit. *Watching
the washer drain through the clear hose, it appears to me that: (1)
the water backs up between washer output hose and the hose clamp
restriction, but not for very long. *At the end of each flush cycle
there appears to be plenty of time when barely any water is being
pumped through the clear hose, which makes me think it's not backing
up significantly upstream of the restriction. (2) The standpipe is
still backing up somewhat, but the tight fit between the clear hose
and the standpipe results in minimal leakage.

My questions:

1. Does anyone see a problem with this? *Is there any potential
problem caused by the fact that system is essentially closed
(airtight) from the washer to the standpipe?

2. This system does nothing to alleviate the lint/soap buildup
problem. *Is there a product I could use which would do a better job
of clearing the clog than the chlorine-based products I've tried in
the past? *[obvious answer is a snake, though I haven't personally had
any success with the snake here in the past].

3. Some washers have internal lint catchers. Our washer has nothing to
collect lint inside the washer. *We've tried metal mesh lint filters
at the washer output before but they clog up so fast that they cause
an overflow after 2-3 washings. * Anyone know of an aftermarket
internal lint catcher?

4. Is there something I'm missing that I should be asking?

-Scott

Good responses so far. I would not try a lint-catching net that you
put on the end of the discharge hose. These can clog up quickly and
create more of a problem.

I would go with the idea of raising the height of the pipe, the manual
for your washer will have max height specs.

Your 'sealed' system could cause a future clog to backup into the
washer. Raw sewage in you washer is probably not something you would
want.

One of these should make it easy to snake by yourself unless it is a
big clog.
http://www.antonline.com/p_88150-GP_326274.htm

On Jan 6, 3:15*pm, SMcK wrote:
Using a hose clamp, I've attached a 12" length of clear hose to the
washer output hose. Using another hose clamp I restricted the clear
hose down to something a bit smaller than the 1" diameter of the
washer output hose. *There's enough clear hose left after the second
hose clamp that I can stuff it about 2" down into the standpipe. *The
outer diameter of the clear hose is almost the same as the inner
diameter of the standpipe, creating a nearly airtight fit. *

1. Does anyone see a problem with this? *Is there any potential
problem caused by the fact that system is essentially closed
(airtight) from the washer to the standpipe?

4. Is there something I'm missing that I should be asking?

-Scott

I think that your success is due to the fact that you are pumping the
water out more slowly due to the restriction, not because of the air
tight connection.

The air tight connection makes me uncomfortable, I would prefer to
avoid that. Drains are built to run on gravity, not pressure.
There's all sorts of stuff that can go wrong places you can't see.

The optimal solution is to make the standpipe accept a higher flow.
But if that is not feasible right now, then your alternate solution of
giving it a lower flow seems reasonable. Rather than a large hose
with a restriction, I'd prefer a small hose where the reduced diameter
offers the resistance but maintains a loose connection to the
standpipe. Or, you could put a throttling valve in line, a simple
faucet from the hardware store would work, if you wanted to fine tune
it.

I don't think the restriction in flow hurts your wash machine pump,
but I'd find out exactly how it works and what type it is. And maybe
how cheap and easy it is to replace if needed.

On 2009-01-06, SMcK wrote:

I believe this can allow the trap to siphon empty, with the
associated problems.

Thanks for the response. For my own educational purposes, can you
tell me what the "associated problems" might be?

If the trap siphons dry, there will be no water barrier between the
sewer line and the inside air. So you may get odors and noxious gases
from the sewer. Supposedly when indoor plumbing was first invented,
this problem was bad enough to kill someone. But these days I think
it would probably just smell bad.

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks one and all. This is all very useful.

I had also planned on extending the height of the standpipe by a foot
or two (there is a shelf above which limts how high I can go) but I
stopped when I thought the current fix might be sufficient. My plan
is to get a piece of PVC the same diameter as the (metal) standpipe,
put rubber gasket material, and perhaps harder plastic or aluminum or
something around them above and below the joint, and hold the upper
and lower pieces in place with hose clamps. Sound reasonable?

-Scott

On Jan 7, 12:28*pm, SMcK wrote:
Thanks one and all. *This is all very useful.

I had also planned on extending the height of the standpipe by a foot
or two (there is a shelf above which limts how high I can go) but I
stopped when I thought the current fix might be sufficient. *My plan
is to get a piece of PVC the same diameter as the (metal) standpipe,
put rubber gasket material, and perhaps harder plastic or aluminum or
something around them above and below the joint, and hold the upper
and lower pieces in place with hose clamps. *Sound reasonable?

-Scott

I would solder on another piece of pipe but something like this would
do
http://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cg...-Pipe-Adapters

A clamp or bracket near the top stabalizing the pipe is also a good
idea.

On Jan 7, 1:20*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Jan 7, 12:28*pm, SMcK wrote:

Thanks one and all. *This is all very useful.

I had also planned on extending the height of the standpipe by a foot
or two (there is a shelf above which limts how high I can go) but I
stopped when I thought the current fix might be sufficient. *My plan
is to get a piece of PVC the same diameter as the (metal) standpipe,
put rubber gasket material, and perhaps harder plastic or aluminum or
something around them above and below the joint, and hold the upper
and lower pieces in place with hose clamps. *Sound reasonable?

-Scott

I would solder on another piece of pipe but something like this would
dohttp://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Copper-Pipe-Adapters

A clamp or bracket near the top stabalizing the pipe is also a good
idea.

Have you ever seen how drainpipe is put together in commercial
buildings? It isn't soldered. Widely used are "no-hub" connections
or simple bell and tube joints.

As long as the flow is gravity only and not pressurized, you neither
need nor want a super tight connection.

Why do you want the standpipe higher? The obvious reason is that
making the washer pump higher against gravity will reduce your volume
of flow. But a foot isn't going to do you as much good as a smaller
diameter hose will.

I think what I would do in this case is remove the washer drain hose
from the fitting, and attach a smaller diameter hose right there. Or,
cut your hose right in the middle and install a valve so you can
reduce the flow. If the standpipe can't handle what your washer puts
into it, then reduce what your washer output is. Yeah, better to
increase what your standpoint can handle, but you don't want to spend
the money.

On Jan 7, 11:51*pm, TimR wrote:
On Jan 7, 1:20*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:





On Jan 7, 12:28*pm, SMcK wrote:

Thanks one and all. *This is all very useful.

I had also planned on extending the height of the standpipe by a foot
or two (there is a shelf above which limts how high I can go) but I
stopped when I thought the current fix might be sufficient. *My plan
is to get a piece of PVC the same diameter as the (metal) standpipe,
put rubber gasket material, and perhaps harder plastic or aluminum or
something around them above and below the joint, and hold the upper
and lower pieces in place with hose clamps. *Sound reasonable?

-Scott

I would solder on another piece of pipe but something like this would
dohttp://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Copper-Pipe-Adapters

A clamp or bracket near the top stabalizing the pipe is also a good
idea.

Have you ever seen how drainpipe is put together in commercial
buildings?

Yes I have.

It isn't soldered. *Widely used are "no-hub" connections
or simple bell and tube joints.

Have you ever seen how a washer discharge hose goes into drain pipe?
Normally they have no support at the top so a Fernco fitting would not
work.


As long as the flow is gravity only and not pressurized, you neither
need nor want a super tight connection.

Why would you want a drain pipe that doesn't have a tightly sealed
joint?


Why do you want the standpipe higher?

I wouldn't. I put in a washtub and took out the standpipe at my
house.

The obvious reason is that
making the washer pump higher against gravity will reduce your volume
of flow. *But a foot isn't going to do you as much good as a smaller
diameter hose will.

Perhaps you missed that the OP said he waas going to lengthen the
standpipe and was asking what typ of connector to use.

Have you ever seen how a washer discharge hose goes into drain pipe?
Normally they have no support at the top so a Fernco fitting would not
work.


Yeah, I have a washer myself. The hose is curved like a cane, fits
loosely in the standpipe.



As long as the flow is gravity only and not pressurized, you neither
need nor want a super tight connection.

Why would you want a drain pipe that doesn't have a tightly sealed
joint?

You don't want one, but the probability you have one is fairly high,
and normally it does no harm. A drain line should never run full and
it should never be pressurized.



Why do you want the standpipe higher?

I wouldn't. *I put in a washtub and took out the standpipe at my
house.

Excellent idea! You have plenty of buffer capacity to handle a surge
above what the standpipe could hold. And you eliminate the chance of
a crossconnection/backflow problem.


The obvious reason is that
making the washer pump higher against gravity will reduce your volume
of flow. *But a foot isn't going to do you as much good as a smaller
diameter hose will.

Perhaps you missed that the OP said he waas going to lengthen the
standpipe and was asking what typ of connector to use.- Hide quoted text -

I didn't miss it, I think it's a dumb idea. You aren't going to get
enough buffer or head differential. The reason code requires it is
anti-syphon, but it won't help with the flow problem.

On Jan 6, 3:15*pm, SMcK wrote:
I have a problem with my clothes washer overflowing the 1.5"
standpipe. *I've read that others have this problem. *In the past,
chemical clog removers have been ineffectual at clearing the lint and
soap which (I assume) is partially responsible for the backup. *I've
tried snaking past the trap and never been successful. *I've paid for
a plumber a couple times and he's been able to get it snaked out
enough that it works for a year or so before clogging again. *Even
after snaking it I've had to rig up a system that hold the washer hose
up as far as possible out of the standpipe, in order to give it more
time to fill and reduce tendency to backup when the water first starts
flowing.

Recently it started backing up again. *I've done some 'net research
and come up with a sort of solution that seems to work. *I want to
bounce it off others in case there's a problem here I'm not seeing.

Using a hose clamp, I've attached a 12" length of clear hose to the
washer output hose. Using another hose clamp I restricted the clear
hose down to something a bit smaller than the 1" diameter of the
washer output hose. *There's enough clear hose left after the second
hose clamp that I can stuff it about 2" down into the standpipe. *The
outer diameter of the clear hose is almost the same as the inner
diameter of the standpipe, creating a nearly airtight fit. *Watching
the washer drain through the clear hose, it appears to me that: (1)
the water backs up between washer output hose and the hose clamp
restriction, but not for very long. *At the end of each flush cycle
there appears to be plenty of time when barely any water is being
pumped through the clear hose, which makes me think it's not backing
up significantly upstream of the restriction. (2) The standpipe is
still backing up somewhat, but the tight fit between the clear hose
and the standpipe results in minimal leakage.

My questions:

1. Does anyone see a problem with this? *Is there any potential
problem caused by the fact that system is essentially closed
(airtight) from the washer to the standpipe?

2. This system does nothing to alleviate the lint/soap buildup
problem. *Is there a product I could use which would do a better job
of clearing the clog than the chlorine-based products I've tried in
the past? *[obvious answer is a snake, though I haven't personally had
any success with the snake here in the past].

3. Some washers have internal lint catchers. Our washer has nothing to
collect lint inside the washer. *We've tried metal mesh lint filters
at the washer output before but they clog up so fast that they cause
an overflow after 2-3 washings. * Anyone know of an aftermarket
internal lint catcher?

4. Is there something I'm missing that I should be asking?

-Scott

I'm not dure why someone else suggested not using a lint trap on the
end of the hose as a means to prevent the clog.

I've been using them on my washer hoses since I was kid, 50+ years
ago. Granted, mine are currently exposed in a utility sink, but my
parents have used one in standpipe for years. Dad uses a hose clamp as
a preventative measure just in case he doesn't change it soon enough -
some brands will blow off the end of some hoses if they get too
clogged.

As an extra precaution, you could even rig up a wire holder so that
even if the lint trap ripped or the hose clamp failed, it would hang
in the standpipe and not go down.