I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.

better too deep than too shallow. The ears on the outlets will lay on the
sheetrock and set the proper depth.

s


"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.

nothing personal to the original poster, but why would
anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious
answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the
quality and strength of steel?????



"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.

ease of use, don't have to fuptz around grounding them, cheaper, uh, uh ,
uh. I don't see a down side myself.

s


"news" wrote in message
cations...
nothing personal to the original poster, but why would
anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious
answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the
quality and strength of steel?????



"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.

On Dec 27, 9:42*pm, "Steve Barker"
wrote:
better too deep than too shallow. *The ears on the outlets will lay on the
sheetrock and set the proper depth.

s

"Aaron Fude" wrote in message

...



I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to
tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending
the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the
faceplate tighten everything?

Many thanks in advance,

Aaron

news wrote:
nothing personal to the original poster, but why would
anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious
answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the
quality and strength of steel?????



"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.


I like the plastic old work boxes with the flags, they seem to work
better than steel boxes with madison hangers. I've seen metal old work
boxes (in use by contractors) but can't find 'em in my local big boxes.

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

In article cations, "news" wrote:
nothing personal to the original poster, but why would
anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious
answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the
quality and strength of steel?????

1. Cost -- difference is about a dollar and a half per box, not "a few
pennies".
2. Ease of installation:
a) boxes don't have to be grounded
b) cables don't have to be clamped to box, as long as they're secured to
framing within (IIRC) 6" of the box
c) because cables don't have to be clamped to box, there's no deduction from
the rated cubic capacity of the box for cable clamps
d) light weight means it's easier to lug a full carton of boxes

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
news
ease of use, don't have to fuptz around grounding them, cheaper, uh, uh
, uh. I don't see a down side myself.

Here in Canada, plastic boxes still have a grounding strap that you have to
attach the ground wire to. No savings in time nor trouble. I find that the
screws for switches and receptacles strip out of the plastic quite easily if
the screw is removed for work a couple of times.

"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.

Personally I love plastic boxes. I only use them for single gang purposes
and only 22 cu. inch, I prefer steel for multiple gang for the rigidity, but
most of all because the largest single gang plastic boxes have lots of room
in them

Plastic boxes are very useful in any environment were corrosion will
be a problem. They are the box of choice in buildings that house
large animals. I prefer them when wiring the outside walls of a
basement. They have there uses much like any other material. The
only time I get vexed by there use is when they are mixed in with
metal raceway or metal covered cable because the bonding is seldom
done correctly.

--
Tom Horne

On Dec 27, 9:12*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.

Plastic boxes are very useful in any environment were corrosion will
be a problem. They are the box of choice in buildings that house
large animals. I prefer them when wiring the outside walls of a
basement. They have there uses much like any other material. The
only time I get vexed by there use is when they are mixed in with
metal raceway or metal covered cable because the bonding is seldom
done correctly.

--
Tom Horne

On Dec 27, 9:12*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.

Not that I plan to do this, but how *would* one properly bond BX or pipe
to a plastic box? you got me curious...

nate

Tom Horne wrote:
Plastic boxes are very useful in any environment were corrosion will
be a problem. They are the box of choice in buildings that house
large animals. I prefer them when wiring the outside walls of a
basement. They have there uses much like any other material. The
only time I get vexed by there use is when they are mixed in with
metal raceway or metal covered cable because the bonding is seldom
done correctly.

--
Tom Horne

On Dec 27, 9:12 pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.



--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.



*It takes a little practice to bring out the box a little extra before
nailing to get it just right. I sometimes carry a small piece of drywall
with me and hold it up against the stud while nailing the box. For kitchens
and bathrooms I use the adjustable boxes because I rarely know what the
final finish depth will be.

Unfortunately the plastic boxes are bigger than the metal and as a result
there is not a lot of drywall for the ears to rest on. A common
electrician's trick is to wrap a piece of wire around the screw behind the
ears to make up the gap difference. Sometimes I use 6/32 nuts for the boxes
that are set back a lot more.

you must be using some substandard brand plastic boxes. i've never stripped
one out and i always use the dewalt drill to drive the screws in and out.
Also, why do you ground plastic?

s


"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
news
ease of use, don't have to fuptz around grounding them, cheaper, uh,
uh , uh. I don't see a down side myself.

Here in Canada, plastic boxes still have a grounding strap that you have
to attach the ground wire to. No savings in time nor trouble. I find that
the screws for switches and receptacles strip out of the plastic quite
easily if the screw is removed for work a couple of times.

just dont' go so tight. HELL they're not going anywhere...

s


"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...


Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to
tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending
the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the
faceplate tighten everything?

Many thanks in advance,

Aaron

don't need to.

s


"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
Not that I plan to do this, but how *would* one properly bond BX or pipe
to a plastic box? you got me curious...

nate

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
Not that I plan to do this, but how *would* one properly bond BX or pipe
to a plastic box? you got me curious...

nate

Tom Horne wrote:
Plastic boxes are very useful in any environment were corrosion will
be a problem. They are the box of choice in buildings that house
large animals. I prefer them when wiring the outside walls of a
basement. They have there uses much like any other material. The
only time I get vexed by there use is when they are mixed in with
metal raceway or metal covered cable because the bonding is seldom
done correctly.

--
Tom Horne

On Dec 27, 9:12 pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.



--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

You wouldn't (shouldn't) do it with the standard .35 cent box. You'd need
special non metallic boxes made for the purpose

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
you must be using some substandard brand plastic boxes. i've never
stripped one out and i always use the dewalt drill to drive the screws in
and out. Also, why do you ground plastic?

s


"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
news
ease of use, don't have to fuptz around grounding them, cheaper, uh,
uh , uh. I don't see a down side myself.

Here in Canada, plastic boxes still have a grounding strap that you have
to attach the ground wire to. No savings in time nor trouble. I find that
the screws for switches and receptacles strip out of the plastic quite
easily if the screw is removed for work a couple of times.


You don't ground the plastic. It's a point of attachment for all the ground
conductors

OH.

"RBM" wrote in message
...

You don't ground the plastic. It's a point of attachment for all the
ground conductors

On Sat, 27 Dec 2008 18:12:09 -0800 (PST), Aaron Fude
wrote:

I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the
first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new-
work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal
standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.


The 3/8" marks are intended for 3/8" wall coverings. Ideally, the
boxes should be flush with the wall. If yours is 1/8" short, that's
okay. I made a plywood jig that locates the box at the proper depth
and height. The jig rests on the floor and against a stud--removes
guesswork and no measuring.

"Steve Barker" wrote in
:

just dont' go so tight. HELL they're not going anywhere...

s


"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
news:e0cad4ec-820b-456f-b693-
...


Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to
tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending
the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the
faceplate tighten everything?

Many thanks in advance,

Aaron



Aaron has obviously seen a lot of how crafty people unplug things from a
distance...grab cord so there's no slack to wall, hand forward and snap
back hard. Occasional damage to humans, property & pets from hard rubber
plug end whipping through room at mach 1.

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
just dont' go so tight. HELL they're not going anywhere...

s


"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...


Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to
tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending
the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the
faceplate tighten everything?

Many thanks in advance,

Aaron

You can use washers on the screws to space the devices out and still have
them tight. We used to save the washers broken off the ears for this. I saw
some folding plastic spacers for this at Loews recently.

Don Young

Don Young wrote:
"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
just dont' go so tight. HELL they're not going anywhere...

s


"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...


Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to
tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending
the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the
faceplate tighten everything?

Many thanks in advance,

Aaron

You can use washers on the screws to space the devices out and still have
them tight. We used to save the washers broken off the ears for this. I saw
some folding plastic spacers for this at Loews recently.

Don Young


Not that it is likely to make a real difference, but IIRC code requires
a box extender, to eliminate the minuscule chance that a device in the
box could throw sparks into the crack and touch off flammable material.
Modern box extenders work rather well- I had to use about 4-5 of them
here cleaning up work the previous owner fubar'd. Outlets look a lot
better flush and square with the wall, etc. And switches work a lot
better when the lever sticks all the way through the slot.
--
aem sends...

On Sat, 27 Dec 2008 20:10:32 -0700, "news" wrote:

nothing personal to the original poster, but why would
anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious
answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the
quality and strength of steel?????



Plastic boxes are very easy to work, available in numerous sizes,
available in more stores, and low cost. Metal boxes are great for
surface mount.