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Plastic electrical boxes.
I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have
been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
better too deep than too shallow. The ears on the outlets will lay on the
sheetrock and set the proper depth. s "Aaron Fude" wrote in message ... I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
nothing personal to the original poster, but why would
anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the quality and strength of steel????? "Aaron Fude" wrote in message ... I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
ease of use, don't have to fuptz around grounding them, cheaper, uh, uh ,
uh. I don't see a down side myself. s "news" wrote in message cations... nothing personal to the original poster, but why would anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the quality and strength of steel????? "Aaron Fude" wrote in message ... I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
On Dec 27, 9:42*pm, "Steve Barker"
wrote: better too deep than too shallow. *The ears on the outlets will lay on the sheetrock and set the proper depth. s "Aaron Fude" wrote in message ... I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the faceplate tighten everything? Many thanks in advance, Aaron |
Plastic electrical boxes.
news wrote:
nothing personal to the original poster, but why would anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the quality and strength of steel????? "Aaron Fude" wrote in message ... I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. I like the plastic old work boxes with the flags, they seem to work better than steel boxes with madison hangers. I've seen metal old work boxes (in use by contractors) but can't find 'em in my local big boxes. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
Plastic electrical boxes.
In article cations, "news" wrote:
nothing personal to the original poster, but why would anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the quality and strength of steel????? 1. Cost -- difference is about a dollar and a half per box, not "a few pennies". 2. Ease of installation: a) boxes don't have to be grounded b) cables don't have to be clamped to box, as long as they're secured to framing within (IIRC) 6" of the box c) because cables don't have to be clamped to box, there's no deduction from the rated cubic capacity of the box for cable clamps d) light weight means it's easier to lug a full carton of boxes |
Plastic electrical boxes.
"Steve Barker" wrote in message ... ease of use, don't have to fuptz around grounding them, cheaper, uh, uh , uh. I don't see a down side myself. Here in Canada, plastic boxes still have a grounding strap that you have to attach the ground wire to. No savings in time nor trouble. I find that the screws for switches and receptacles strip out of the plastic quite easily if the screw is removed for work a couple of times. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
"Aaron Fude" wrote in message ... I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. Personally I love plastic boxes. I only use them for single gang purposes and only 22 cu. inch, I prefer steel for multiple gang for the rigidity, but most of all because the largest single gang plastic boxes have lots of room in them |
Plastic electrical boxes.
Plastic boxes are very useful in any environment were corrosion will
be a problem. They are the box of choice in buildings that house large animals. I prefer them when wiring the outside walls of a basement. They have there uses much like any other material. The only time I get vexed by there use is when they are mixed in with metal raceway or metal covered cable because the bonding is seldom done correctly. -- Tom Horne On Dec 27, 9:12*pm, Aaron Fude wrote: I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
Plastic boxes are very useful in any environment were corrosion will
be a problem. They are the box of choice in buildings that house large animals. I prefer them when wiring the outside walls of a basement. They have there uses much like any other material. The only time I get vexed by there use is when they are mixed in with metal raceway or metal covered cable because the bonding is seldom done correctly. -- Tom Horne On Dec 27, 9:12*pm, Aaron Fude wrote: I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
Not that I plan to do this, but how *would* one properly bond BX or pipe
to a plastic box? you got me curious... nate Tom Horne wrote: Plastic boxes are very useful in any environment were corrosion will be a problem. They are the box of choice in buildings that house large animals. I prefer them when wiring the outside walls of a basement. They have there uses much like any other material. The only time I get vexed by there use is when they are mixed in with metal raceway or metal covered cable because the bonding is seldom done correctly. -- Tom Horne On Dec 27, 9:12 pm, Aaron Fude wrote: I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
Plastic electrical boxes.
"Aaron Fude" wrote in message ... I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. *It takes a little practice to bring out the box a little extra before nailing to get it just right. I sometimes carry a small piece of drywall with me and hold it up against the stud while nailing the box. For kitchens and bathrooms I use the adjustable boxes because I rarely know what the final finish depth will be. Unfortunately the plastic boxes are bigger than the metal and as a result there is not a lot of drywall for the ears to rest on. A common electrician's trick is to wrap a piece of wire around the screw behind the ears to make up the gap difference. Sometimes I use 6/32 nuts for the boxes that are set back a lot more. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
you must be using some substandard brand plastic boxes. i've never stripped
one out and i always use the dewalt drill to drive the screws in and out. Also, why do you ground plastic? s "EXT" wrote in message anews.com... "Steve Barker" wrote in message ... ease of use, don't have to fuptz around grounding them, cheaper, uh, uh , uh. I don't see a down side myself. Here in Canada, plastic boxes still have a grounding strap that you have to attach the ground wire to. No savings in time nor trouble. I find that the screws for switches and receptacles strip out of the plastic quite easily if the screw is removed for work a couple of times. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
just dont' go so tight. HELL they're not going anywhere...
s "Aaron Fude" wrote in message ... Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the faceplate tighten everything? Many thanks in advance, Aaron |
Plastic electrical boxes.
don't need to.
s "Nate Nagel" wrote in message ... Not that I plan to do this, but how *would* one properly bond BX or pipe to a plastic box? you got me curious... nate |
Plastic electrical boxes.
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message ... Not that I plan to do this, but how *would* one properly bond BX or pipe to a plastic box? you got me curious... nate Tom Horne wrote: Plastic boxes are very useful in any environment were corrosion will be a problem. They are the box of choice in buildings that house large animals. I prefer them when wiring the outside walls of a basement. They have there uses much like any other material. The only time I get vexed by there use is when they are mixed in with metal raceway or metal covered cable because the bonding is seldom done correctly. -- Tom Horne On Dec 27, 9:12 pm, Aaron Fude wrote: I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel You wouldn't (shouldn't) do it with the standard .35 cent box. You'd need special non metallic boxes made for the purpose |
Plastic electrical boxes.
"Steve Barker" wrote in message ... you must be using some substandard brand plastic boxes. i've never stripped one out and i always use the dewalt drill to drive the screws in and out. Also, why do you ground plastic? s "EXT" wrote in message anews.com... "Steve Barker" wrote in message ... ease of use, don't have to fuptz around grounding them, cheaper, uh, uh , uh. I don't see a down side myself. Here in Canada, plastic boxes still have a grounding strap that you have to attach the ground wire to. No savings in time nor trouble. I find that the screws for switches and receptacles strip out of the plastic quite easily if the screw is removed for work a couple of times. You don't ground the plastic. It's a point of attachment for all the ground conductors |
Plastic electrical boxes.
OH.
"RBM" wrote in message ... You don't ground the plastic. It's a point of attachment for all the ground conductors |
Plastic electrical boxes.
On Sat, 27 Dec 2008 18:12:09 -0800 (PST), Aaron Fude
wrote: I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep. The 3/8" marks are intended for 3/8" wall coverings. Ideally, the boxes should be flush with the wall. If yours is 1/8" short, that's okay. I made a plywood jig that locates the box at the proper depth and height. The jig rests on the floor and against a stud--removes guesswork and no measuring. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
"Steve Barker" wrote in
: just dont' go so tight. HELL they're not going anywhere... s "Aaron Fude" wrote in message news:e0cad4ec-820b-456f-b693- ... Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the faceplate tighten everything? Many thanks in advance, Aaron Aaron has obviously seen a lot of how crafty people unplug things from a distance...grab cord so there's no slack to wall, hand forward and snap back hard. Occasional damage to humans, property & pets from hard rubber plug end whipping through room at mach 1. |
Plastic electrical boxes.
"Steve Barker" wrote in message ... just dont' go so tight. HELL they're not going anywhere... s "Aaron Fude" wrote in message ... Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the faceplate tighten everything? Many thanks in advance, Aaron You can use washers on the screws to space the devices out and still have them tight. We used to save the washers broken off the ears for this. I saw some folding plastic spacers for this at Loews recently. Don Young |
Plastic electrical boxes.
Don Young wrote:
"Steve Barker" wrote in message ... just dont' go so tight. HELL they're not going anywhere... s "Aaron Fude" wrote in message ... Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the faceplate tighten everything? Many thanks in advance, Aaron You can use washers on the screws to space the devices out and still have them tight. We used to save the washers broken off the ears for this. I saw some folding plastic spacers for this at Loews recently. Don Young Not that it is likely to make a real difference, but IIRC code requires a box extender, to eliminate the minuscule chance that a device in the box could throw sparks into the crack and touch off flammable material. Modern box extenders work rather well- I had to use about 4-5 of them here cleaning up work the previous owner fubar'd. Outlets look a lot better flush and square with the wall, etc. And switches work a lot better when the lever sticks all the way through the slot. -- aem sends... |
Plastic electrical boxes.
On Sat, 27 Dec 2008 20:10:32 -0700, "news" wrote:
nothing personal to the original poster, but why would anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the quality and strength of steel????? Plastic boxes are very easy to work, available in numerous sizes, available in more stores, and low cost. Metal boxes are great for surface mount. |
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