My camping trailer has a nice (if cheap), through-the-wall, capped
entry/exit/pass-through for the power cord.

How should I make something like this for my house?

I occasionally run a hose from our grade-level laundry room, out the
attached garage entry door, to my RV or power washer. During this time,
the door is ajar for quite a while. I am concerned about vulnerability
to mouse incursion during this process.

Until now, I have used the doggie door as temporary pass-through for the
hose I use to pump-out the RV's holding tanks. This, too, opened our
home to potential mouse incursion. Now the dog is gone and the doggie
door is probably next.

A nice, easily "cap-able" for security and insulation, pass-through
would also work for an extension cord from a portable generator running
outside. I believe a cap like that found on the exterior of my RV, on
BOTH sides of my unfinished utility room wall, wouldn't be too unsightly.

When Qwest build a huge addition onto the Central Office nearby, they
replaced the standby plant with a HUGE generator. It was a total
rework. The generator contractor had pass-through, 4-inch diameter
tubes built through the brick-facaded structure. Through these
elevated, probably 12-inch long tubes, were run the cables that ran from
the trailered, dummy load outside, to the new generator installation
inside. This, I was told, enabled fine-tuning the new system.

Having such a portal at home would help with a couple of things I do
occasionally. One could keep the tube stuffed with old socks as
insulation during the lengthy periods of non-use. Ideas? TIA.
--

JR

Jim Redelfs wrote:

My camping trailer has a nice (if cheap), through-the-wall, capped
entry/exit/pass-through for the power cord.

How should I make something like this for my house?

I occasionally run a hose from our grade-level laundry room, out the
attached garage entry door, to my RV or power washer. During this time,
the door is ajar for quite a while. I am concerned about vulnerability
to mouse incursion during this process.

Until now, I have used the doggie door as temporary pass-through for the
hose I use to pump-out the RV's holding tanks. This, too, opened our
home to potential mouse incursion. Now the dog is gone and the doggie
door is probably next.

A nice, easily "cap-able" for security and insulation, pass-through
would also work for an extension cord from a portable generator running
outside. I believe a cap like that found on the exterior of my RV, on
BOTH sides of my unfinished utility room wall, wouldn't be too unsightly.

When Qwest build a huge addition onto the Central Office nearby, they
replaced the standby plant with a HUGE generator. It was a total
rework. The generator contractor had pass-through, 4-inch diameter
tubes built through the brick-facaded structure. Through these
elevated, probably 12-inch long tubes, were run the cables that ran from
the trailered, dummy load outside, to the new generator installation
inside. This, I was told, enabled fine-tuning the new system.

Having such a portal at home would help with a couple of things I do
occasionally. One could keep the tube stuffed with old socks as
insulation during the lengthy periods of non-use. Ideas? TIA.
--

JR

Install a proper support pedestal for your camper, with power and fresh
water connections and an adjacent sewer connection if you can.

As for mouse infiltration, don't worry about that, there are already a
dozen other openings they can get in through.

Take a piece of 4" or 3" plumbing drainage pipe add a threaded female
fitting on both ends, screw in a clean-out plug into each threaded end. Make
it the same length as the wall's thickness so only the plugs show inside and
outside and affix into the wall. You can paint the plugs to match your
decor, just don't get paint in the threads. To use remove the plugs and pass
cables, hoses etc., through the openings. Stuff something the mice don't
like around the cables while the plugs are out.

Better, actually wire and plumb a permanent supply pedestal by the trailer
as suggested earlier.

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Jim Redelfs wrote:

My camping trailer has a nice (if cheap), through-the-wall, capped
entry/exit/pass-through for the power cord.

How should I make something like this for my house?

I occasionally run a hose from our grade-level laundry room, out the
attached garage entry door, to my RV or power washer. During this time,
the door is ajar for quite a while. I am concerned about vulnerability
to mouse incursion during this process.

Until now, I have used the doggie door as temporary pass-through for the
hose I use to pump-out the RV's holding tanks. This, too, opened our
home to potential mouse incursion. Now the dog is gone and the doggie
door is probably next.

A nice, easily "cap-able" for security and insulation, pass-through
would also work for an extension cord from a portable generator running
outside. I believe a cap like that found on the exterior of my RV, on
BOTH sides of my unfinished utility room wall, wouldn't be too unsightly.

When Qwest build a huge addition onto the Central Office nearby, they
replaced the standby plant with a HUGE generator. It was a total
rework. The generator contractor had pass-through, 4-inch diameter
tubes built through the brick-facaded structure. Through these
elevated, probably 12-inch long tubes, were run the cables that ran from
the trailered, dummy load outside, to the new generator installation
inside. This, I was told, enabled fine-tuning the new system.

Having such a portal at home would help with a couple of things I do
occasionally. One could keep the tube stuffed with old socks as
insulation during the lengthy periods of non-use. Ideas? TIA.
--

JR

Install a proper support pedestal for your camper, with power and fresh
water connections and an adjacent sewer connection if you can.

As for mouse infiltration, don't worry about that, there are already a
dozen other openings they can get in through.

On Dec 14, 2:26�pm, "EXT" wrote:
Take a piece of 4" or 3" plumbing drainage pipe add a threaded female
fitting on both ends, screw in a clean-out plug into each threaded end. Make
it the same length as the wall's thickness so only the plugs show inside and
outside and affix into the wall. You can paint the plugs to match your
decor, just don't get paint in the threads. To use remove the plugs and pass
cables, hoses etc., through the openings. Stuff something the mice don't
like around the cables while the plugs are out.

Better, actually wire and plumb a permanent supply pedestal by the trailer
as suggested earlier.

"Pete C." wrote in message

ster.com...





Jim Redelfs wrote:

My camping trailer has a nice (if cheap), through-the-wall, capped
entry/exit/pass-through for the power cord.

How should I make something like this for my house?

I occasionally run a hose from our grade-level laundry room, out the
attached garage entry door, to my RV or power washer. �During this time,
the door is ajar for quite a while. �I am concerned about vulnerability
to mouse incursion during this process.

Until now, I have used the doggie door as temporary pass-through for the
hose I use to pump-out the RV's holding tanks. �This, too, opened our
home to potential mouse incursion. �Now the dog is gone and the doggie
door is probably next.

A nice, easily "cap-able" for security and insulation, pass-through
would also work for an extension cord from a portable generator running
outside. �I believe a cap like that found on the exterior of my RV, on
BOTH sides of my unfinished utility room wall, wouldn't be too unsightly.

When Qwest build a huge addition onto the Central Office nearby, they
replaced the standby plant with a HUGE generator. �It was a total
rework. �The generator contractor had pass-through, 4-inch diameter
tubes built through the brick-facaded structure. �Through these
elevated, probably 12-inch long tubes, were run the cables that ran from
the trailered, dummy load outside, to the new generator installation
inside. �This, I was told, enabled fine-tuning the new system.

Having such a portal at home would help with a couple of things I do
occasionally. �One could keep the tube stuffed with old socks as
insulation during the lengthy periods of non-use. �Ideas? �TIA.
--
� � � � � �
JR

Install a proper support pedestal for your camper, with power and fresh
water connections and an adjacent sewer connection if you can.

As for mouse infiltration, don't worry about that, there are already a
dozen other openings they can get in through.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have outside water, electric, airline, and gas outlet, for outside
use. they add value and convenience

pass thrus are a low tech cheap looking work around

Jim Redelfs wrote:
My camping trailer has a nice (if cheap), through-the-wall, capped
entry/exit/pass-through for the power cord.

How should I make something like this for my house?

I occasionally run a hose from our grade-level laundry room, out the
attached garage entry door, to my RV or power washer. During this
time, the door is ajar for quite a while. I am concerned about
vulnerability to mouse incursion during this process.

Until now, I have used the doggie door as temporary pass-through for
the hose I use to pump-out the RV's holding tanks. This, too, opened
our home to potential mouse incursion. Now the dog is gone and the
doggie door is probably next.

A nice, easily "cap-able" for security and insulation, pass-through
would also work for an extension cord from a portable generator
running outside. I believe a cap like that found on the exterior of
my RV, on BOTH sides of my unfinished utility room wall, wouldn't be
too unsightly.

When Qwest build a huge addition onto the Central Office nearby, they
replaced the standby plant with a HUGE generator. It was a total
rework. The generator contractor had pass-through, 4-inch diameter
tubes built through the brick-facaded structure. Through these
elevated, probably 12-inch long tubes, were run the cables that ran
from the trailered, dummy load outside, to the new generator
installation inside. This, I was told, enabled fine-tuning the new
system.

Having such a portal at home would help with a couple of things I do
occasionally. One could keep the tube stuffed with old socks as
insulation during the lengthy periods of non-use. Ideas? TIA.

A neighbor I once has was forced to cover the bottom of the gutter
downspouts with wire mesh. His wife was convinced that mice could use the
downspout as some sort of shaft to reach the roof. (What the mice would do
on the roof was never fully explained.)

Mice do not use doors or doggie entrances.

Raccoons, armadillos, badgers, bobcats, wolverines, bats, coyotes, beavers,
exploring cats, and very large snakes - a different matter altogether.

On Dec 14, 5:23�pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Jim Redelfs wrote:
My camping trailer has a nice (if cheap), through-the-wall, capped
entry/exit/pass-through for the power cord.

How should I make something like this for my house?

I occasionally run a hose from our grade-level laundry room, out the
attached garage entry door, to my RV or power washer. �During this
time, the door is ajar for quite a while. �I am concerned about
vulnerability to mouse incursion during this process.

Until now, I have used the doggie door as temporary pass-through for
the hose I use to pump-out the RV's holding tanks. �This, too, opened
our home to potential mouse incursion. �Now the dog is gone and the
doggie door is probably next.

A nice, easily "cap-able" for security and insulation, pass-through
would also work for an extension cord from a portable generator
running outside. �I believe a cap like that found on the exterior of
my RV, on BOTH sides of my unfinished utility room wall, wouldn't be
too unsightly.

When Qwest build a huge addition onto the Central Office nearby, they
replaced the standby plant with a HUGE generator. �It was a total
rework. �The generator contractor had pass-through, 4-inch diameter
tubes built through the brick-facaded structure. �Through these
elevated, probably 12-inch long tubes, were run the cables that ran
from the trailered, dummy load outside, to the new generator
installation inside. �This, I was told, enabled fine-tuning the new
system.

Having such a portal at home would help with a couple of things I do
occasionally. �One could keep the tube stuffed with old socks as
insulation during the lengthy periods of non-use. �Ideas? �TIA.

A neighbor I once has was forced to cover the bottom of the gutter
downspouts with wire mesh. His wife was convinced that mice could use the
downspout as some sort of shaft to reach the roof. (What the mice would do
on the roof was never fully explained.)

Mice do not use doors or doggie entrances.

Raccoons, armadillos, badgers, bobcats, wolverines, bats, coyotes, beavers,
exploring cats, and very large snakes - a different matter altogether.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

mice moved into the attic of my moms old home, thru cracks in the
soffit and fascia.

they can climb really well

wrote:

A neighbor I once has was forced to cover the bottom of the gutter
downspouts with wire mesh. His wife was convinced that mice could
use the
downspout as some sort of shaft to reach the roof. (What the mice
would do
on the roof was never fully explained.)

Mice do not use doors or doggie entrances.

Raccoons, armadillos, badgers, bobcats, wolverines, bats, coyotes,
beavers,
exploring cats, and very large snakes - a different matter
altogether.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

mice moved into the attic of my moms old home, thru cracks in the
soffit and fascia.

they can climb really well

I'll defer to your experience on this subject, but I suggest a mouse can't
climb the inside of a downspout gutter worth squat. Somehow I'm reminded of
Samuel Johnson's observation: "A woman in the pulpit is like a dog raised up
on it's hinder legs. It is not surprising that it does it poorly; what is
surprising is that it would want to do so at all."

HeyBub wrote:

wrote:


A neighbor I once has was forced to cover the bottom of the gutter
downspouts with wire mesh. His wife was convinced that mice could
use the
downspout as some sort of shaft to reach the roof. (What the mice
would do
on the roof was never fully explained.)

Mice do not use doors or doggie entrances.

Raccoons, armadillos, badgers, bobcats, wolverines, bats, coyotes,
beavers,
exploring cats, and very large snakes - a different matter
altogether.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


mice moved into the attic of my moms old home, thru cracks in the
soffit and fascia.

they can climb really well



I'll defer to your experience on this subject, but I suggest a mouse can't
climb the inside of a downspout gutter worth squat. Somehow I'm reminded of
Samuel Johnson's observation: "A woman in the pulpit is like a dog raised up
on it's hinder legs. It is not surprising that it does it poorly; what is
surprising is that it would want to do so at all."




I've seen rats climb UP two-story downspouts of our condo. I had heard
noises like animals a couple of
times, because the downspouts are right next to our patio. Couldn't
imagine what it could be in the
downspout until one day when I saw a rat run from the hedge to the
opening of the downspout and heard him go up. We have
palms, with lots of berries, that overhang the roof if not kept trimmed
- yummy food supply.

Norminn wrote:

I've seen rats climb UP two-story downspouts of our condo. I had
heard noises like animals a couple of
times, because the downspouts are right next to our patio. Couldn't
imagine what it could be in the
downspout until one day when I saw a rat run from the hedge to the
opening of the downspout and heard him go up. We have
palms, with lots of berries, that overhang the roof if not kept
trimmed - yummy food supply.

INSIDE the down-spout? If so, well, damn.

mice can squeeze thru a trivial crack, its amazing.

dont leave a food source around your home. I used to feed birds
sunflower seeds, kept a 50 pound sack in basement.

got over run with mice, live trapped and relocated around 50. all
survived the trap except really old grey ones, they must of died from
fear, the trap didnt harm them I emptied the trap at least 3 times a
day and left a container of water for them inside the trap.

wrote:
mice can squeeze thru a trivial crack, its amazing.

dont leave a food source around your home. I used to feed birds
sunflower seeds, kept a 50 pound sack in basement.

got over run with mice, live trapped and relocated around 50. all
survived the trap except really old grey ones, they must of died from
fear, the trap didnt harm them I emptied the trap at least 3 times a
day and left a container of water for them inside the trap.

Think cat.

In article s.com,
"EXT" wrote:

Take a piece of 4" or 3" plumbing drainage pipe add a threaded female
fitting on both ends, screw in a clean-out plug into each threaded end. Make
it the same length as the wall's thickness so only the plugs show inside and
outside and affix into the wall.

Thank-you. Do you have a suggestion for attaching it securely into the
wall?

This pass-through will be subject to the forces caused by
passing-through it - or occasionally DRAGGING-through it - an often wet,
full garden hose.

Also, I wish to be able to open and close the (unpainted) threaded plugs
with some degree of ease, perhaps using a large slip-joint pliers but
then gently. I don't want an annoying requirement that I replace the
cap(s) only "finger" tight. That would be insecure. IOW, I don't want
the silly thing turning in the wall while I'm trying to remove or
replace a cap.

Thanks, again, for the ideas.
--

JR

In article .com,
"Pete C." wrote:

Install a proper support pedestal for your camper,
with power and fresh water connections

That is done, long since...

I installed a 30A, 125V RV electrical connection there some years ago.
It even has its own transient suppressor.

Water was added shortly thereafter and is even more convenient.

The travel trailer sits atop a $4-5k concrete driveway, exactly in the
shadow/footprint of the house, 18-inches away from the house. Its power
cord hangs in the air, in a gentle bow, about 4 feet to the connection.

The pass-through issue occurs probably a couple times a year. It
happens when I use a macerator pump to purge and clean the holding tanks
on the RV. I route the effluent through a 3/4-inch hose, 50-ft long and
direct it down into the washing machine stand pipe. The process is nice
with a "weak link" - the hose running through the door issue.

A permanent sewer inlet -er- ahem CLEAN-OUT closer to the camper is no
longer a viable option. It would have involved digging-up the line to
the street and building an inlet - THEN laying the concrete.

Also, I have heard that the garage floor drain or RV dump is NO LONGER
ALLOWED by many, if not most, municipal plumbing codes.

Actually, since my sewer line passes under my garage floor, I plan to
install a floor drain there under shadow of darkness behind my CLOSED
garage door. The hand DIGGING such a project would require is daunting
to be sure. sigh
--

JR

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
wrote:
mice can squeeze thru a trivial crack, its amazing.

dont leave a food source around your home. I used to feed birds
sunflower seeds, kept a 50 pound sack in basement.

got over run with mice, live trapped and relocated around 50. all
survived the trap except really old grey ones, they must of died from
fear, the trap didnt harm them I emptied the trap at least 3 times a
day and left a container of water for them inside the trap.

Think cat.

Yup, cats take a preverse joy in playing with and eliminating mice. My cat
has to settle for the odd fly or crawly bug that manages to get inside.

Jim Redelfs wrote:

In article .com,
"Pete C." wrote:

Install a proper support pedestal for your camper,
with power and fresh water connections

That is done, long since...

I installed a 30A, 125V RV electrical connection there some years ago.
It even has its own transient suppressor.

Water was added shortly thereafter and is even more convenient.

The travel trailer sits atop a $4-5k concrete driveway, exactly in the
shadow/footprint of the house, 18-inches away from the house. Its power
cord hangs in the air, in a gentle bow, about 4 feet to the connection.

The pass-through issue occurs probably a couple times a year. It
happens when I use a macerator pump to purge and clean the holding tanks
on the RV. I route the effluent through a 3/4-inch hose, 50-ft long and
direct it down into the washing machine stand pipe. The process is nice
with a "weak link" - the hose running through the door issue.

A permanent sewer inlet -er- ahem CLEAN-OUT closer to the camper is no
longer a viable option. It would have involved digging-up the line to
the street and building an inlet - THEN laying the concrete.

Also, I have heard that the garage floor drain or RV dump is NO LONGER
ALLOWED by many, if not most, municipal plumbing codes.

Actually, since my sewer line passes under my garage floor, I plan to
install a floor drain there under shadow of darkness behind my CLOSED
garage door. The hand DIGGING such a project would require is daunting
to be sure. sigh
--

JR

The simple solution then is to run a permanent waste line from a capped
connection point outside the house, in to wherever you pump to. Connect
the waste hose from the pump to the port and have at it. No need for a
pass through.

On Dec 15, 3:16�pm, "Pete C." wrote:
Jim Redelfs wrote:

In article .com,
�"Pete C." wrote:

Install a proper support pedestal for your camper,
with power and fresh water connections

That is done, long since...

I installed a 30A, 125V RV electrical connection there some years ago.
It even has its own transient suppressor.

Water was added shortly thereafter and is even more convenient.

The travel trailer sits atop a $4-5k concrete driveway, exactly in the
shadow/footprint of the house, 18-inches away from the house. �Its power
cord hangs in the air, in a gentle bow, about 4 feet to the connection.

The pass-through issue occurs probably a couple times a year. �It
happens when I use a macerator pump to purge and clean the holding tanks
on the RV. �I route the effluent through a 3/4-inch hose, 50-ft long and
direct it down into the washing machine stand pipe. �The process is nice
with a "weak link" - the hose running through the door issue.

A permanent sewer inlet -er- ahem CLEAN-OUT closer to the camper is no
longer a viable option. �It would have involved digging-up the line to
the street and building an inlet - THEN laying the concrete.

Also, I have heard that the garage floor drain or RV dump is NO LONGER
ALLOWED by many, if not most, municipal plumbing codes.

Actually, since my sewer line passes under my garage floor, I plan to
install a floor drain there under shadow of darkness behind my CLOSED
garage door. �The hand DIGGING such a project would require is daunting
to be sure. � sigh
--
� � � � � �
JR

The simple solution then is to run a permanent waste line from a capped
connection point outside the house, in to wherever you pump to. Connect
the waste hose from the pump to the port and have at it. No need for a
pass through.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

or use the outside sewer trap vent, in a pinch you can use it as a
occasional drain.

In article
,
" wrote:

or use the outside sewer trap vent

I believe my home's drain system vents through a stack in the roof.

in a pinch you can use it as a occasional drain.

I don't think my macerator pump could "lift" to that height.
--

JR

" wrote:
or use the outside sewer trap vent

I believe my home's drain system vents through a stack in the roof.

JR

around here every home has a main sewer vent within a few feet of the
line entering the home, this is done to prevent flammable sewer gas
from getting in homes sewer line, the vent is connected to a large P
trap.

I have used this vent for occasional disposal purposes......

all homes also have roof vents, so sewer gas thats methane cant build
up in interior sewer lines