Jim Redelfs wrote:

In article .com,
"Pete C." wrote:

Install a proper support pedestal for your camper,
with power and fresh water connections

That is done, long since...

I installed a 30A, 125V RV electrical connection there some years ago.
It even has its own transient suppressor.

Water was added shortly thereafter and is even more convenient.

The travel trailer sits atop a $4-5k concrete driveway, exactly in the
shadow/footprint of the house, 18-inches away from the house. Its power
cord hangs in the air, in a gentle bow, about 4 feet to the connection.

The pass-through issue occurs probably a couple times a year. It
happens when I use a macerator pump to purge and clean the holding tanks
on the RV. I route the effluent through a 3/4-inch hose, 50-ft long and
direct it down into the washing machine stand pipe. The process is nice
with a "weak link" - the hose running through the door issue.

A permanent sewer inlet -er- ahem CLEAN-OUT closer to the camper is no
longer a viable option. It would have involved digging-up the line to
the street and building an inlet - THEN laying the concrete.

Also, I have heard that the garage floor drain or RV dump is NO LONGER
ALLOWED by many, if not most, municipal plumbing codes.

Actually, since my sewer line passes under my garage floor, I plan to
install a floor drain there under shadow of darkness behind my CLOSED
garage door. The hand DIGGING such a project would require is daunting
to be sure. sigh
--

JR

The simple solution then is to run a permanent waste line from a capped
connection point outside the house, in to wherever you pump to. Connect
the waste hose from the pump to the port and have at it. No need for a
pass through.