I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store stock
stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees. Borg
does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old clunker
circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman junker & new
kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a router. Probably need
to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens. Sounded
pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually run the
maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of them
for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.

The best approach is to turn the counter top upside down on saw
horses. Protect the contact points with a rag or similar. Draw
your cut line on the bottom of the top and the back of the
backsplash. Corners are selfdom square, so check and mark
accordingly. If you are very good with a circular saw, have at.
If not, bolt/screw/double stick tape a straightedge tot eh top to
run the saw against (be very careful about going through the
finish top). Make your cut, install.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Red Green" wrote in message
...
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times.
This time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock
stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90
degrees. Borg
does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old
clunker
circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman junker
& new
kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a router.
Probably need
to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in
kitchens. Sounded
pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are
pretty
confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has
actually run the
maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a
combo of them
for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This time
I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store stock
stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees. Borg
does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old clunker
circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman junker & new
kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a router. Probably
need
to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens.
Sounded
pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually run
the
maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of them
for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.


90 degree cuts are best made with a circular saw equipped with a fine kerf,
high tooth count carbide blade.

Always cut from the backside. I usually draw the line and cut the back
splash first. Then cut from the splash to the post formed lip raising saw
slightly when getting to the lip. Very little chipping occurs with this
method and caulk hides what does.

Supporting both sides is important while making the cut.

Colbyt

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store stock
stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees. Borg
does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old clunker
circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman junker & new
kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a router. Probably need
to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens. Sounded
pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually run the
maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of them
for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.
Is the material you're cutting flat? (No integral backsplash.)

If so rough cut with a circular saw. Then trim to the exact dimension
by placing and clamping a guide on the counter top and then passing your
router with a 1/4" or 1/2" router bit over the desired edge.

Boden

Boden wrote in
:

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old
clunker circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman
junker & new kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a
router. Probably need to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens.
Sounded pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats
are pretty confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has
actually run the maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of
them for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.
Is the material you're cutting flat? (No integral backsplash.)

If so rough cut with a circular saw. Then trim to the exact dimension
by placing and clamping a guide on the counter top and then passing
your
router with a 1/4" or 1/2" router bit over the desired edge.

Boden


Sorry for not mentioning it does have a backsplash.

"Colbyt" wrote in
:


"Red Green" wrote in message
...
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store
stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old
clunker circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman
junker & new kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a
router. Probably need
to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens.
Sounded
pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually
run the
maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of
them for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.


90 degree cuts are best made with a circular saw equipped with a fine
kerf, high tooth count carbide blade.

Always cut from the backside. I usually draw the line and cut the
back splash first. Then cut from the splash to the post formed lip
raising saw slightly when getting to the lip. Very little chipping
occurs with this method and caulk hides what does.

Supporting both sides is important while making the cut.

Colbyt



Cutting from the backside makes sense. Just like cutting shelving. Blade
rotation at cut is up. Finished edge at cut is supported my material.
Severely reduces chipping "out" I guess you might call it. Then there's
the additional taping sometimes recommended.

On Nov 13, 7:48*pm, Red Green wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote :







"Red Green" wrote in message
...
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store
stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old
clunker circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman
junker & new kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a
router. Probably need
to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens.
Sounded
pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually
run the
maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of
them for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.

90 degree cuts are best made with a circular saw equipped with a fine
kerf, high tooth count carbide blade.

Always cut from the backside. *I usually draw the line and cut the
back splash first. *Then cut from the splash to the post formed lip
raising saw slightly when getting to the lip. *Very little chipping
occurs with this method and caulk hides what does.

Supporting both sides is important while making the cut.

Colbyt

Cutting from the backside makes sense. Just like cutting shelving. Blade
rotation at cut is up. Finished edge at cut is supported my material.
Severely reduces chipping "out" I guess you might call it. Then there's
the additional taping sometimes recommended.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A layer of heavy masking tape centered on the cut line on the finished
side is what my neighbor carpenter always recommends to reduce
chipping. Double check that you really want 90 degrees on the edge
that goes in the corner. us a decent sized square, and double-check
by checking the old countertop, assuming that it fit perfectly.

Bob Hofmann

"hr(bob) " wrote in
:

On Nov 13, 7:48*pm, Red Green wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote
innews:hImdnf26V-GvU4HUnZ
:







"Red Green" wrote in message
...
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times.
This time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store
stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90
degrees. Borg does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old
clunker circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman
junker & new kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a
router. Probably need
to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in
kitchens. Sounded
pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are
pretty confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has
actually run the
maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo
of them for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.

90 degree cuts are best made with a circular saw equipped with a
fine kerf, high tooth count carbide blade.

Always cut from the backside. *I usually draw the line and cut the
back splash first. *Then cut from the splash to the post formed lip
raising saw slightly when getting to the lip. *Very little chipping
occurs with this method and caulk hides what does.

Supporting both sides is important while making the cut.

Colbyt

Cutting from the backside makes sense. Just like cutting shelving.
Blade rotation at cut is up. Finished edge at cut is supported my
material. Severely reduces chipping "out" I guess you might call it.
Then there's the additional taping sometimes recommended.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A layer of heavy masking tape centered on the cut line on the finished
side is what my neighbor carpenter always recommends to reduce
chipping. Double check that you really want 90 degrees on the edge
that goes in the corner. us a decent sized square, and double-check
by checking the old countertop, assuming that it fit perfectly.

Bob Hofmann


I was unclear regarding the 90 degrees. Was really trying to say not 45
degrees and no curves.

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store stock
stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees. Borg
does not cut lengths.

On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 16:16:19 GMT, Pat Barber
wrote:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store stock
stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees. Borg
does not cut lengths.

This link has an index for other projects, nice link.

Index:

http://woodworkingtips.com/etips/

Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.


Looks like a good tip to use a jig. Thickness of plywood would prevent
having to raise the saw at the lip of the countertop resulting in a smooth
continuous cut.

Red Green wrote in
:

I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old
clunker circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman
junker & new kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a
router. Probably need to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens.
Sounded pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are
pretty confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has
actually run the maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of
them for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.


I could be wrong about this being good advice or overkill but with all
the dings the Borg gets, here's a little balance on the other side.

I was just gandering at Lowe's last night at what they had available in
stock countertop. Verne comes by and asks if I need any help. Just some
general yak. Then he says don't buy it now. I'm like huh? He says come
back another day and get it. I'm thinking WTF?

So I says I'm just sizing right now but why do you say that? He says
because it's raining out now and has been on and off all day. The air is
saturated. Moisture is even condensing on things that are covered. Why
chance it if you don't have to.

I'm no kitchen/countertop wiz but it seemed to be good advice...and from
a Lowe's person! Little more chat afterwards. Turns out Verne worked in a
cabinet shop prior to retiring. From his comment about delaying any
purchase, I'd guess his job was not gofer or cleanup.

NickySantoro wrote in
:

On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 18:51:20 -0600, Red Green
wrote:

I'd cut a bit oversize using a crosscut hand saw and do the final
sizing with a belt sander. That's how I cut down a Borg unit for a
bath vanity.
FWIW
YMMV

Ah yes, belt sander aka generic shaper.

Yea, I'll make sure rotation is left, right or down. My guess is if it's up
there's a risk of chipping and/or separating the laminate.

Thanks for the input.

Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.


Pat:

Thanks VERY much for that link. Just the couple of article pics gave a
lot of info.

I made the jig and cut the countertop per the info from this thread and
the article. I mean absolutely flawless. The laminate did not chip at
all. If the cut edge of the laminate wasn't sharp as a knife blade I
wouldn't have even had to abrade it.

Maybe I got lucky and the countertop deserves some credit. Borg
countertop at that. One end of one piece was to be against a wall
directly with no side splash. Of course wall is not straight. Especially
where drywall came to a corner bead. Scribed this with a compass and used
a jig saw cutting from the top yet. That edge would get caulk anyway.
Still, no chipping.

Used a new Irwin steel plywood blade with like 100+ teeth in a 25 year
old B&D 7 1/4 circ saw. Those bearing have been rattling for like 2 years
now.

Once again, thanks.

Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

Just reposting something so I can archive.

On 9/14/2012 7:41 PM, Red Green wrote:
Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

Just reposting something so I can archive.



Use a printer next time....

Red Green wrote:

Just reposting something so I can archive.

If you have it to repost why don't you just archive that?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 9/14/2012 8:53 PM, Dusenberg wrote:
On 9/14/2012 7:41 PM, Red Green wrote:
Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

Just reposting something so I can archive.



Use a printer next time....

And if you want an electronic version copy and paste works quite well.
Give it a name or add keywords that make sense and let the computer
index the document and it will be really easy to find.

On Sat, 15 Sep 2012 09:00:40 -0400, George wrote:

On 9/14/2012 8:53 PM, Dusenberg wrote:
On 9/14/2012 7:41 PM, Red Green wrote:
Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

Just reposting something so I can archive.



Use a printer next time....

And if you want an electronic version copy and paste works quite well.
Give it a name or add keywords that make sense and let the computer
index the document and it will be really easy to find.

Or print to PDF.

George wrote in :

On 9/14/2012 8:53 PM, Dusenberg wrote:
On 9/14/2012 7:41 PM, Red Green wrote:
Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times.
This time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some
9/10 ft store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90
degrees. Borg does not cut lengths.

Just reposting something so I can archive.



Use a printer next time....

And if you want an electronic version copy and paste works quite well.
Give it a name or add keywords that make sense and let the computer
index the document and it will be really easy to find.

No. Note the goal of why I posted it. I wanted it BACK IM MY NEWSREADER
ARCHIVE. How does cut and paste do that more efficient?

If I had done something else, there would be chime in's for "Why not
repost and archive?"

Dusenberg wrote in news:k30jhu$3kg$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

On 9/14/2012 7:41 PM, Red Green wrote:
Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

Just reposting something so I can archive.



Use a printer next time....

No. Note the goal of why I posted it. I wanted it BACK IM MY NEWSREADER
ARCHIVE. How does a printer do that more efficient?

If I had done something else, there would be chime in's for "Why not
repost and archive?"

" wrote in
:

On Sat, 15 Sep 2012 09:00:40 -0400, George
wrote:

On 9/14/2012 8:53 PM, Dusenberg wrote:
On 9/14/2012 7:41 PM, Red Green wrote:
Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times.
This time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some
9/10 ft store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90
degrees. Borg does not cut lengths.

Just reposting something so I can archive.



Use a printer next time....

And if you want an electronic version copy and paste works quite well.
Give it a name or add keywords that make sense and let the computer
index the document and it will be really easy to find.

Or print to PDF.

No. Note the goal of why I posted it. I wanted it BACK IM MY NEWSREADER
ARCHIVE. How does a Cute PDF, DoPDF, or any PDF driver do that more
efficient?

If I had done something else, there would be chime in's for "Why not
repost and archive?"

On Fri, 14 Sep 2012 23:41:16 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

Just reposting something so I can archive.


Where are you archiving this? Why do you need to repost this to
archive it rather than just archive the original? For me, I'd rather
print to PDF and keep it on my hard drive but I'll assume you don't
want that.

"Doug" wrote in
news
On Fri, 14 Sep 2012 23:41:16 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

Just reposting something so I can archive.


Where are you archiving this? Why do you need to repost this to
archive it rather than just archive the original? For me, I'd rather
print to PDF and keep it on my hard drive but I'll assume you don't
want that.


Why is this such a big frikkin' deal?!

Where are you archiving this?

In the archive. Newsreader archive.

Why do you need to repost this to archive it rather than just
archive the original?

Because it's long gone off the server or so far back I'm not digging for
it.

For me, I'd rather
print to PDF and keep it on my hard drive but I'll assume you don't
want that.

No I don't want that. Not in a PDF. Original post of one line of new text
that seems to have started a Q&A fiasco said "Just reposting something so
I can archive."

Because the original is already in my news archive. It's been in there a
long long time. I know where that info is stored right off the top of my
head for a long time - first shot with no searching. Because the archive
header is partially trashed. If the header becomes totally trashed then
the archived version becomes trashed. I repost. I dump the archive so it
gets rebuilt - Rebuild, fetch and rearchive. No big deal.

More details?

Xnews under Xp stores the headers and archive under
C:\Program Files\Xnews\folders\archive.hdr &
C:\Program Files\Xnews\folders\archive.mbx

Under Windows 7, XNews gets installed to
C:\Program Files (x86)\Xnews\folders (makes sense being a 32bit app)

Then Windows 7 took the liberty to put the data for the Xnews folders in
C:\Users\RedGreen\AppData\Local\VirtualStore\Progr am Files (x86)\Xnews
\folders

Not knowing this my daily backup was not backing it up. **** happens.
Move on.

I store zillions (yes zillions but not quite bizillions) of things
(virtually everything) as PDF's. Things you would not believe. I have an
awesome app where I can even edit PDF's (text, graphics, add web links,
add file links, lock, unlock - basically everything full Acrobat can do
that I want to do) at a mere 20mb install file for 37 bucks. I don't even
have an Acrobat reader installed any more.

I will croak (not a promise)) if someone replies to this with even more
not understanding:

Because === I === want to!

In article ,
Red Green wrote:

I will croak (not a promise)) if someone replies to this with even more
not understanding:

G'ahead and croak then. I sure as hell don't understand it. I don't even
know how to ask an intelligent question about it, since to me, it seems
completely out in left field. I'm not lacking some little piece of the
puzzle, I can't even figure out what the puzzle is.

On Tue, 18 Sep 2012 00:35:53 +0000 (UTC), Red Green
wrote:

"Doug" wrote in
news
On Fri, 14 Sep 2012 23:41:16 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

Pat Barber wrote in
:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html

Red Green wrote:
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft
store stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

Just reposting something so I can archive.


Where are you archiving this? Why do you need to repost this to
archive it rather than just archive the original? For me, I'd rather
print to PDF and keep it on my hard drive but I'll assume you don't
want that.


Why is this such a big frikkin' deal?!

Where are you archiving this?

In the archive. Newsreader archive.

Why do you need to repost this to archive it rather than just
archive the original?

Because it's long gone off the server or so far back I'm not digging for
it.

For me, I'd rather
print to PDF and keep it on my hard drive but I'll assume you don't
want that.

No I don't want that. Not in a PDF. Original post of one line of new text
that seems to have started a Q&A fiasco said "Just reposting something so
I can archive."

Because the original is already in my news archive. It's been in there a
long long time. I know where that info is stored right off the top of my
head for a long time - first shot with no searching. Because the archive
header is partially trashed. If the header becomes totally trashed then
the archived version becomes trashed. I repost. I dump the archive so it
gets rebuilt - Rebuild, fetch and rearchive. No big deal.

More details?

Xnews under Xp stores the headers and archive under
C:\Program Files\Xnews\folders\archive.hdr &
C:\Program Files\Xnews\folders\archive.mbx

Under Windows 7, XNews gets installed to
C:\Program Files (x86)\Xnews\folders (makes sense being a 32bit app)

Then Windows 7 took the liberty to put the data for the Xnews folders in
C:\Users\RedGreen\AppData\Local\VirtualStore\Prog ram Files (x86)\Xnews
\folders

Not knowing this my daily backup was not backing it up. **** happens.
Move on.

I store zillions (yes zillions but not quite bizillions) of things
(virtually everything) as PDF's. Things you would not believe. I have an
awesome app where I can even edit PDF's (text, graphics, add web links,
add file links, lock, unlock - basically everything full Acrobat can do
that I want to do) at a mere 20mb install file for 37 bucks. I don't even
have an Acrobat reader installed any more.

I will croak (not a promise)) if someone replies to this with even more
not understanding:

Because === I === want to!



I think most object because you are causing a server to hold more
repeat information that isn't the best idea.

Don't want you to croak but hope you find a better way for everyone's
benefit g.

In article ,
"Doug" wrote:

I think most object because you are causing a server to hold more
repeat information that isn't the best idea.

I don't "object," and I don't think most others do, either. I'm just
incredibly puzzled.

What I can't wrap my tiny brain around is this: He *must* have the
article stored on his computer, somewhere, in order to repost it. (I
know this for sure, because he stated that it was long gone from his
news server.) Therefore, it *is* already archived. Maybe it doesn't have
the name he wants, or it isn't in the format he wants, or it isn't in
the folder he wants, but why would that necessitate re-posting?

On Tue, 18 Sep 2012 09:45:14 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
"Doug" wrote:

I think most object because you are causing a server to hold more
repeat information that isn't the best idea.

I don't "object," and I don't think most others do, either. I'm just
incredibly puzzled.

What I can't wrap my tiny brain around is this: He *must* have the
article stored on his computer, somewhere, in order to repost it. (I
know this for sure, because he stated that it was long gone from his
news server.) Therefore, it *is* already archived. Maybe it doesn't have
the name he wants, or it isn't in the format he wants, or it isn't in
the folder he wants, but why would that necessitate re-posting?


I see what you mean and I agree. I guess he thinks by archiving it
into a news folder, he can organize it better for later reading??? For
me, I'd rather have it as a text or pdf file in a properly named
folder. Oh well....

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"Doug" wrote:

I think most object because you are causing a server to hold more
repeat information that isn't the best idea.

I don't "object," and I don't think most others do, either. I'm just
incredibly puzzled.

What I can't wrap my tiny brain around is this: He *must* have the
article stored on his computer, somewhere, in order to repost it. (I
know this for sure, because he stated that it was long gone from his
news server.) Therefore, it *is* already archived. Maybe it doesn't
have the name he wants, or it isn't in the format he wants, or it
isn't in the folder he wants, but why would that necessitate
re-posting?

It doesn't.

As you (and I and others) said, he must have it if he can repost it. If he
had it from a newgroup it most likely has the extension ".nws". If so, all
he need do is drag it into the folder in his news reader where he wants it.
If it doesn't have ".nws" as the extension - or if that is not what his news
reader uses - all he has to do is rename it with the appropriate extension
and *then* drag it. After all, it is just a text file.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Tue, 18 Sep 2012 00:35:53 +0000 (UTC), Red Green
wrote:


I will croak (not a promise)) if someone replies to this with even more
not understanding:

Because === I === want to!

Why?

Try duct tape.

Oren wrote in news:0pkh58p968nr1corapc6mq4uioupm0atm0@
4ax.com:

On Tue, 18 Sep 2012 00:35:53 +0000 (UTC), Red Green
wrote:


I will croak (not a promise)) if someone replies to this with even more
not understanding:

Because === I === want to!

Why?

Try duct tape.


Duh! Why didn't I think of that.

In article ,
wrote:



Agent saves everything you read until you purge it.
I have my purge option set not to keep things very long but you could
keep them forever.

If you pull up that old post, you can reply to it, even if the thread
on the server is long gone.

I'm with you so far. Please continue on with your explanation of the
logic behind "reposting" to "archive."