On Nov 13, 7:48*pm, Red Green wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote :







"Red Green" wrote in message
...
I've pulled and replaced countertop (same piece) several times. This
time I
think I need to replace some. Just going to use some 9/10 ft store
stock stuff.

Question is in regard to cutting to length. All cuts are 90 degrees.
Borg does not cut lengths.

I have the reg electric power tool assortment including lame old
clunker circular (), another old clunker jig, 10" table Craftsman
junker & new kick-ass Hitachi 12" compound miter saws as well as a
router. Probably need
to get some specific bit(s) and/or blades.

Of course I spoke on the phone with an Orange Borg guy in kitchens.
Sounded
pretty confident as to recommendations but then again rats are pretty
confidient on running a maze. Have no idea if Borg guy has actually
run the
maze.

I'm sure I'll get several methods as a reply and may take a combo of
them for what I decide to do but lets hear it please.

90 degree cuts are best made with a circular saw equipped with a fine
kerf, high tooth count carbide blade.

Always cut from the backside. *I usually draw the line and cut the
back splash first. *Then cut from the splash to the post formed lip
raising saw slightly when getting to the lip. *Very little chipping
occurs with this method and caulk hides what does.

Supporting both sides is important while making the cut.

Colbyt

Cutting from the backside makes sense. Just like cutting shelving. Blade
rotation at cut is up. Finished edge at cut is supported my material.
Severely reduces chipping "out" I guess you might call it. Then there's
the additional taping sometimes recommended.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A layer of heavy masking tape centered on the cut line on the finished
side is what my neighbor carpenter always recommends to reduce
chipping. Double check that you really want 90 degrees on the edge
that goes in the corner. us a decent sized square, and double-check
by checking the old countertop, assuming that it fit perfectly.

Bob Hofmann