I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

"Richard Evans" wrote in message
...
I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

get a bunch of small supermagnets. you can get them for about .10/each when
you buy in bulk (i use
http://www.forcefieldmagnets.com/cat...roducts_id=37).
run a stack over where you think the stud is and they'll be attracted to the
drywall screws. put a small magnet over each screwhead. you'll see exactly
where the studs run.

In article ,
Richard Evans wrote:

I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

The $20 wall density detector I got from Radio Shack 20 years ago works
very reliably in my hands. When I loan it out, it doesn't. Seems it all
comes down to reading, and following, the instructions. It's simple to
use, but easy to use wrong.

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 12:12:10 -0400, Richard Evans wrote:
I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

I've had good luck with the electronic variety. The trick is to move them
very slowly along the wall. The LEDs will shoot up at one boundary and
down at the other boundary. I don't move more than about a centimeter
per second once I know the general location.

Richard Evans wrote:
....
Any suggestions?

I basically start w/ the baseboard and find where it was nailed.
Investigation there generally will find the pattern.

--

On Oct 3, 11:12*am, Richard Evans wrote:
I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

I have had good success with electronic stud finders, but I agree that
the results can be spotty. You can get small, very powerful magnets
on ebay, that you "rub" over a wall section until it sticks to a
screw. It's a little faster than the horseshoe tool, because they
will "home in" on a screw from about 2-3" away from it. Once you have
found one, it is easier to locate the next ones based on a typical
framing pattern.

JK

On Oct 3, 2:39*pm, dpb wrote:
Richard Evans wrote:

...

Any suggestions?

I basically start w/ the baseboard and find where it was nailed.
Investigation there generally will find the pattern.

--

A very powerful magnet (about size of end of one thumb) can be
scrapped out of an older style hard drive.

These are are so strong that two will attract and hold through a two
inch diameter tree sapling!

One of these can be gently moved over a plasterboard wall and will
hold 'themselves' in place wherever there is a nail or a screw. It's
like the old expression; "If your underpants fall down use stronger
elastic". In this case a 'stronger magnet'!

Also noticed that one way to determine if there is an electric current
actually flowing in wires (there has to be something plugged in and/or
switched on for current to flow) is to hold one of these magnets
close the wiring and vibration will be felt due to the 60 hertz
alternation of current through the wires. This works even though the
two wires carrying current, live and neutral, are close together, or
even twisted.

One amusing sidelight; is that someone was using one of these strong
magnets on the end of a piece of string, to retrieve something but
avoid moving a heavy metal filing cabinet. The magnet swung slightly
and was attracted to the filing cabinet; where it stuck like glue.
Don't know if they then moved the cabinet anyway or just abandoned the
magnet until some future time!

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 12:12:10 -0400, Richard Evans
wrote:

I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

Rare-Earth magnets. You might find them in a hobby shop or Rad Shack.
Even old dead hard drives have magnets for salvage.
http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/magnets.htm

I've not used this tool, but it uses magnets.
http://www.magicstudfinder.com/howitworks.html

Oren wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 12:12:10 -0400, Richard Evans
wrote:


I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?


Rare-Earth magnets. You might find them in a hobby shop or Rad Shack.
Even old dead hard drives have magnets for salvage.
http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/magnets.htm

I've not used this tool, but it uses magnets.
http://www.magicstudfinder.com/howitworks.html

There is a reason to not use aluminum nails.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
Richard Evans wrote:

I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

The $20 wall density detector I got from Radio Shack 20 years ago works
very reliably in my hands. When I loan it out, it doesn't. Seems it all
comes down to reading, and following, the instructions. It's simple to
use, but easy to use wrong.

Similar experience here. I've got a $20 one I got at Sears maybe 25 years
ago and it works fine for me...always finds the stud. My wife insists that
she can put on her Sarah Palin lipstick and has no trouble finding all the
studs she wants....

On 10/3/2008 9:12 AM Richard Evans spake thus:

I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

As others have suggested, forget the electronic detectors. Get yourself
a simple, cheap mechanical/magnetic stud finder. Mine, made by Stanley,
has a small powerful magnet suspended on a pivot. It's very sensitive
and clearly swings when over a screw or nail (ferrous, of course).


--
Washing one's hands of the conflict between the powerful and the
powerless means to side with the powerful, not to be neutral.

- Paulo Freire

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 10:36:13 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

As others have suggested, forget the electronic detectors. Get yourself
a simple, cheap mechanical/magnetic stud finder. Mine, made by Stanley,
has a small powerful magnet suspended on a pivot. It's very sensitive
and clearly swings when over a screw or nail (ferrous, of course).

grin

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA200_.jpg

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 12:12:10 -0400, Richard Evans
wrote:

I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.
-snip-

Since I started using threaded drywall anchors [Zip it or E-Z] I don't
care where the stud is.

I drive a screw and if it hits a stud I'm happy. If it doesn't, I
drive one of these in the same hole and drive the screw into it.

Haven't had one fail yet. [I have had a plastic one catch the side of
a stud and break. Backed it out & now I use the metal ones.]

Jim

On Oct 3, 9:12*am, Richard Evans wrote:

Any suggestions?


Yeah, there are plenty of crappy electronic studfinders that end up
causing more harm than good. There are also good ones. Zircon tends
to make good ones. Don't skimp on cost. A good studfinder pays for
itself in eliminated mistakes in no time.

A metal detector feature is good, but be sure to use some care so you
don't attempt to drive a nail though, say, a cast iron drain pipe.

On Oct 3, 11:36*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 12:12:10 -0400, Richard Evans

wrote:
I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

-snip-

Since I started using threaded drywall anchors [Zip it or E-Z] I don't
care where the stud is. *

I drive a screw and if it hits a stud I'm happy. *If it doesn't, I
drive one of these in the same hole and drive the screw into it.

Haven't had one fail yet. *[I have had a plastic one catch the side of
a stud and break. *Backed it out & now I use the metal ones.]

Jim

Um, as long as you mind the load limits. There are situations where
you MUST find a stud. A heavy wall cabinet is not going to be safely
supported by drywall anchors.

"Claude Hopper" wrote in message
...

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

I hereby nominate Claude for the AHR Rube Goldberg award of the month;-)

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper wrote:
You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

Have you actually tried it? I really hate it when people give advice that is
merely pulled out of their ass.

Richard Evans wrote:
I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?


Hire Superman for an hour....G

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On 10/3/2008 11:22 AM Oren spake thus:

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 10:36:13 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

As others have suggested, forget the electronic detectors. Get yourself
a simple, cheap mechanical/magnetic stud finder. Mine, made by Stanley,
has a small powerful magnet suspended on a pivot. It's very sensitive
and clearly swings when over a screw or nail (ferrous, of course).

grin

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA200_.jpg

That's what I'm talking 'bout.

Of course, when I bought mine, the first thing that happened is that the
clear plastic cover popped off. Little super glue fixed that right up,
though.


--
Washing one's hands of the conflict between the powerful and the
powerless means to side with the powerful, not to be neutral.

- Paulo Freire

"Richard Evans" wrote in message
...
I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

I have some of those super magnets that are about half the size of a penny.
I got a bunch of them on ebay, and they are handy for lots of things. You
merely take one and slide it on the wall until it hits a nail head, and then
it stays there. You do a couple more, and you got the stud. Best way I
have ever found for finding studs.

I have two stud finders, and they are pretty good. Still, sometimes, they
give weird readings, and you're not absolutely sure where the stud is. With
the magnets, I have better luck than that.

Steve

Richard Evans wrote:
I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

As others have said the electronic units work if you go slow.
Many times I use a tape measure measuring from an outlet. There is
almost always a stud on one side for the other of an outlet or switch.
Take the cover plate off and look for the stud. If you can't see it then
use a nail or screwdriver to probe in and find which side the stud is on
and then measure from there.
Kevin

mike wrote:

-snip-
Since I started using threaded drywall anchors [Zip it or E-Z] I don't
care where the stud is. *

-snip-
Um, as long as you mind the load limits. There are situations where
you MUST find a stud. A heavy wall cabinet is not going to be safely
supported by drywall anchors.

Yup- always use a big enough anchor. I'd probably go for a french
cleat for cabinets, though. Glued and screwed to
drywall/anchors/studs.

Jim

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:14:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper wrote:
You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

Have you actually tried it? I really hate it when people give advice that is
merely pulled out of their ass.

They can tell if you are using grow lamps to grow marijuana in your
basement by the infrared glow of your basement walls.

Cite?

They usually go by existance of a utility bill that is five times higher
that normal.

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:18:17 -0400, Blattus Slafaly wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper wrote:
You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

Have you actually tried it? I really hate it when people give advice that is
merely pulled out of their ass.

If people didn't pull ideas out of their ass you'd be doing your laundry
by pounding it with a rock down by the river.

Shut the **** up. I have better things to do than implement your pipe
dreams.
plonk

"Richard Evans" wrote in message
...
I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.


As an electrician I need to do this on a regular basis. I start at an
electrical outlet or switch. The ones that were installed when the house
was built are attached to the side of a stud. I remove the wall plate and
probe each side of the outlet box to see where the stud is. I also use a
short piece of fish tape to push into the wall. I then measure 16" for each
additional stud from where I started. This works most of the time, but of
course every house is different. I don't own an electronic stud finder. I
also look for nail heads popping through or for sloppy spackling over nail
heads. I sometimes use my flashlight against the wall and rotate it slowly
in several places. The odd angle of the light hitting the wall reveals
minor imperfections and can lead to nail heads in a stud.

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:25:36 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:14:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper wrote:
You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

Have you actually tried it? I really hate it when people give advice that is
merely pulled out of their ass.

They can tell if you are using grow lamps to grow marijuana in your
basement by the infrared glow of your basement walls.

Cite?

Here's one with video
http://www.clickondetroit.com/news/16297210/detail.html

Don't know what part of the world you're in, but I see marijuana busts
using infrared [both indoors and out because the plants themselves
have a unique 'signature'] on the news a couple times a month.


They usually go by existance of a utility bill that is five times higher
that normal.

That's just *so* 1900's.g

Jim

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 12:19:29 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:25:36 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:14:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper wrote:
You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

Have you actually tried it? I really hate it when people give advice that is
merely pulled out of their ass.

They can tell if you are using grow lamps to grow marijuana in your
basement by the infrared glow of your basement walls.

Cite?

Here's one with video
http://www.clickondetroit.com/news/16297210/detail.html

Thanks. Next question would be how the **** it relates to finding
studs.

Does anybody, anywhere, use IR for studfinding?
Using a heatgun is too slow anyway. A flame thrower is the way to go.


Don't know what part of the world you're in, but I see marijuana busts
using infrared [both indoors and out because the plants themselves
have a unique 'signature'] on the news a couple times a month.


They usually go by existance of a utility bill that is five times higher
that normal.

That's just *so* 1900's.g

Jim

Similar experience here. I've got a $20 one I got at Sears maybe 25 years
ago and it works fine for me...always finds the stud. My wife insists that
she can put on her Sarah Palin lipstick and has no trouble finding all the
studs she wants....



You betcha!

AZ Nomad wrote:
On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:14:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper wrote:
You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.
Have you actually tried it? I really hate it when people give advice that is
merely pulled out of their ass.

They can tell if you are using grow lamps to grow marijuana in your
basement by the infrared glow of your basement walls.

Cite?

They usually go by existance of a utility bill that is five times higher
that normal.
Oh, cite yourself. I don't think anyone is driving around with a thermal
camera looking at rec room walls, but every year or so around here,
local news and/or discovery channel shows a tape of IR imaging from a
DEA or State Police chopper, cruising out in the country once harvest
season starts, looking for hotspots in pole barns. They then do a
drive-by, and if it isn't a working farm with animals, investigate
further, including pulling utility bills. Nobody monitors utility bills
of customers at random.

I don't think they mess with small basement growers much any more- no
money in that, for them. They want people growing on an industrial
scale, so they can seize and sell off the property and equipment,
thereby putting cash in their pocket.

--
aem sends...

I use an electronic stud finder and plumb bob. Locate 5 or 6 stud
areas and position a plumb line over the center of the marks. From
the marks you may need to throw out a mark or two. Your plumb line
should be over the center of the stud.

AZ Nomad wrote in
:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:14:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly
wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper
wrote:
You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the
wall and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is
against studs will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower,
cool down slower thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

Have you actually tried it? I really hate it when people give
advice that is merely pulled out of their ass.

They can tell if you are using grow lamps to grow marijuana in your
basement by the infrared glow of your basement walls.

Cite?

They usually go by existance of a utility bill that is five times
higher that normal.


The Tommy Chong look doesn't help either...

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:14:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly
wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper
wrote:
You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the
wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.
Have you actually tried it? I really hate it when people give advice
that is
merely pulled out of their ass.

They can tell if you are using grow lamps to grow marijuana in your
basement by the infrared glow of your basement walls.

Cite?

They usually go by existance of a utility bill that is five times higher
that normal.
Oh, cite yourself. I don't think anyone is driving around with a thermal
camera looking at rec room walls, but every year or so around here, local
news and/or discovery channel shows a tape of IR imaging from a DEA or
State Police chopper, cruising out in the country once harvest season
starts, looking for hotspots in pole barns. They then do a drive-by, and
if it isn't a working farm with animals, investigate further, including
pulling utility bills. Nobody monitors utility bills of customers at
random.

I don't think they mess with small basement growers much any more- no
money in that, for them. They want people growing on an industrial scale,
so they can seize and sell off the property and equipment, thereby putting
cash in their pocket.

--
aem sends...

The Vegas Metro chopper has FLIR. It would be a simple thing to merely make
notes during normal operational hours, and then do surveillance. As an
aside, when they notice a green skungy pool, it is their assigned duty to
note the property address and notify the Health Department, as at least two
cases of West Nile Virus has been diagnosed this year.

Big Brother is alive and well and watching everyone.

Steve

On Oct 3, 12:12*pm, Richard Evans wrote:
I've struggled with this for the last forty years.

I want to hang something on a drywall wall, and I want to use the
studs instead of drywall anchors. I have the damndest time finding the
studs reliably.

There's the time-honored and lo-tech method of tapping on the wall and
listening for different tones of hollow wall vs solid stud. So, I find
a stud that way, then measure 16" (or 24") on either side, tap there,
and hear a hollow sound. At that point, the process becomes random and
seldom 100% accurate.

I have several electronic detectors and their performance is spotty as
well. I can scan the same spot three or four times and get three or
four different hits over a space of about four inches, too wide to be
a single 2x2. (No, I'm not finding a doubled stud.)

The most reliable gadget I have is also the simplest: a small plastic
horseshoe with a magnetic pointer suspended between the open ends. You
move it over the wall until the pointer moves, at which time you know
you have detected a nail head and are on a stud. The problem with that
is that nail heads are a very small area of a wall and it takes a lot
of systematic scanning to find them.

I invariably end up approximating where I think the studs are, then
punching trial holes with an awl. This leaves me patching lots of
little trial holes when I'm done.

Any suggestions?

I have been using small rare earth magnets and the method works great

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper
wrote:



You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

Wait I have a better idea. First, take down all the drywall. Then
apply uranium radition to the studs. Then put up new drywall. Then
get a geiger counter and voila - you'll hear a bunch of loud static
when you get near a stud. Brilliant!

On Fri, 10 Oct 2008 04:00:18 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper
wrote:



You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

Wait I have a better idea. First, take down all the drywall. Then
apply uranium radition to the studs. Then put up new drywall. Then
get a geiger counter and voila - you'll hear a bunch of loud static
when you get near a stud. Brilliant!


Nothing wrong with a cheap demsity type stud finder - or like we used
to do before all that fancy stuff was available - a COMPASS. The
needle would find the heads of the drywall nails.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

try a cheap electric tooth brush turn it on place handle againt gyprock and
you should hear the tone change when it passes over a stud
clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote in message
...
On Fri, 10 Oct 2008 04:00:18 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper
wrote:



You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

Wait I have a better idea. First, take down all the drywall. Then
apply uranium radition to the studs. Then put up new drywall. Then
get a geiger counter and voila - you'll hear a bunch of loud static
when you get near a stud. Brilliant!


Nothing wrong with a cheap demsity type stud finder - or like we used
to do before all that fancy stuff was available - a COMPASS. The
needle would find the heads of the drywall nails.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

AZ Nomad posted for all of us...

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 12:19:29 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:25:36 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 09:14:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 18:21:38 -0400, Claude Hopper wrote:
You could probably use an infrared camera and a heat gun. Heat the wall
and then look at it with the camera. The drywall that is against studs
will change temperature more slowly; heat up slower, cool down slower
thus allowing you to see where the studs are.

Have you actually tried it? I really hate it when people give advice that is
merely pulled out of their ass.

They can tell if you are using grow lamps to grow marijuana in your
basement by the infrared glow of your basement walls.

Cite?

Here's one with video
http://www.clickondetroit.com/news/16297210/detail.html

Thanks. Next question would be how the **** it relates to finding
studs.

Does anybody, anywhere, use IR for studfinding?

Well firefighters use it to find hot spots... I was thinking of this when the
idjit suggested it. Replace a heck of a lot of drywall for the bux they cost.
But I like your next comment the best.

Using a heatgun is too slow anyway. A flame thrower is the way to go.


Don't know what part of the world you're in, but I see marijuana busts
using infrared [both indoors and out because the plants themselves
have a unique 'signature'] on the news a couple times a month.


They usually go by existance of a utility bill that is five times higher
that normal.

That's just *so* 1900's.g

Jim


--
Tekkie - I approve this advertisement/statement/utterance.