redoing kitchen, now empty. Do I run the wood laminate all the way to the
corner and put cabinets on top or leave the space cut out for the cabinets?

On Jul 26, 9:31*am, "Max Power" wrote:
redoing kitchen, now empty. Do I run the wood laminate all the way to the
corner and put cabinets on top or leave the space cut out for the cabinets?

Many posts on this topic recommend laminate to the cabinets, shims to
keep cabinet height same as it would be if laminate to the wall.
Problems with dishwasher installations and service a re cited as one
reason to do so. HTH

Joe

I just dropped in here for this very same question, then did a search
for 'flooring under cabinets'.

One interesting suggestion was to cover the cut-out area where the
cabinets will be placed with pylwood of equivalent thickness to
provide for a smooth transition for pulling out appliances.

wrote:
I just dropped in here for this very same question, then did a search
for 'flooring under cabinets'.

One interesting suggestion was to cover the cut-out area where the
cabinets will be placed with pylwood of equivalent thickness to
provide for a smooth transition for pulling out appliances.

Good. Further, I'd laminate under the cabinets and inch or so - whatever's
convenient - then set the cabinets on top. This will save bunches of cutting
and trimming of the laminate in trying to dodge the woodwork.

Max Power wrote:
redoing kitchen, now empty. Do I run the wood laminate all the way to
the corner and put cabinets on top or leave the space cut out for the
cabinets?


Six of one, half a dozen of the other. Why pay for floor you will never
see? But the flip side of that, is if you are paying somebody to do the
install, doing all the cuts and fitting around the cabinet bases can be
a PITA. If you are doing the work yourself, you will have to judge what
your time is worth.

Not that I would actually install laminate in a kitchen, but if I was in
your situation, I'd split the difference- diagram out very carefully
where the cabinets will land, and install laminate just past that line.
Fill the void with something cheap of the same height. If you have a
dishwasher, good luck- they always leak eventually, and laminate does
not handle leaks from the side very well. (does anyone make catch basins
for DWs like they do for washing machines?) At a minimum, I'd caulk the
heck out of the lower edges in the dishwasher space, and see if there
was some way to invisibly seal all the joints for several feet in front.
There is a reason people quit using wood or wood-derived flooring in
kitchens and bathrooms.

--
aem sends...

aemeijers wrote:

Not that I would actually install laminate in a kitchen, but if I was
in your situation, I'd split the difference- diagram out very
carefully where the cabinets will land, and install laminate just
past that line. Fill the void with something cheap of the same
height. If you have a dishwasher, good luck- they always leak
eventually, and laminate does not handle leaks from the side very
well. (does anyone make catch basins for DWs like they do for washing
machines?) At a minimum, I'd caulk the heck out of the lower edges in
the dishwasher space, and see if there was some way to invisibly seal
all the joints for several feet in front. There is a reason people
quit using wood or wood-derived flooring in kitchens and bathrooms.

But some laminate is NOT wood. It's plastic. And impervious to water (also
spears, fuming Nitric Acid, dog poo, motor oil, bullets, freezing, roller
skates, and rabid squirrels). It is, however, vulnerable to flame.

The actual laminate in use can be tested by immersing a sliver in water for
a few days and see if it swells, cracks, or otherwise goes bad.

"Max Power" wrote in message
m...
redoing kitchen, now empty. Do I run the wood laminate all the way to the
corner and put cabinets on top or leave the space cut out for the
cabinets?



I ran laminate up to but not under the cabinets. I did run full flooring
back to the wall under the stove and dishwasher.

Max Power wrote:
redoing kitchen, now empty. Do I run the wood laminate all the way to
the corner and put cabinets on top or leave the space cut out for the
cabinets?



If this is a floating floor. Never set cabinets on top of laminate. A
floating floor must never meet a verticle surface.

This coming from a 3x Certified installer.

Toffee Monday wrote:
Max Power wrote:
redoing kitchen, now empty. Do I run the wood laminate all the way to
the corner and put cabinets on top or leave the space cut out for the
cabinets?



If this is a floating floor. Never set cabinets on top of laminate. A
floating floor must never meet a verticle surface.

This coming from a 3x Certified installer.

Why?

I don't think even floating floors scoot all over the place. If the floor
has an urge to move - and the cabinets are anchored to the wall - the floor
will either slide or figure moving is too much trouble and give up on the
idea.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Why?

I don't think even floating floors scoot all over the place. If the floor
has an urge to move - and the cabinets are anchored to the wall - the
floor will either slide or figure moving is too much trouble and give up
on the idea.

I really don't want to copy & paste basic installation for floating floors.
But in a nut shell, a floating floor will buckle or come apart at the
seams, if it is anchored. That is why it is a "floating" floor.

The floor must be able to expand & contract with changes in humidity.

It is much wiser to follow manufacturer instructions, and see what voids a
warranty, than just figuring this way or that way.

Toffee Monday wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Why?

I don't think even floating floors scoot all over the place. If the
floor has an urge to move - and the cabinets are anchored to the
wall - the floor will either slide or figure moving is too much
trouble and give up on the idea.

I really don't want to copy & paste basic installation for floating
floors. But in a nut shell, a floating floor will buckle or come
apart at the seams, if it is anchored. That is why it is a "floating"
floor.
The floor must be able to expand & contract with changes in humidity.

It is much wiser to follow manufacturer instructions, and see what
voids a warranty, than just figuring this way or that way.

Ah, good point. I suspect, however, that the floor will find a way. But why
take chances?