Of course they are sold everywhere but I have a HD near me.

I see these multipacks in red, blue or green packaging and am trying to
figure out which one is good for what purpose.

I have a normal home with all kind of spaces: lobby, stairs, hallway,
various rooms, porch, garage, basement, laundry, etc. I would like to
replace every light I can by an energy-saver and would be grateful for
any guidance about the different types, which is good for what.

On Jun 3, 2:39*pm, Ajanta wrote:
Of course they are sold everywhere but I have a HD near me.

I see these multipacks in red, blue or green packaging and am trying to
figure out which one is good for what purpose.

I have a normal home with all kind of spaces: lobby, stairs, hallway,
various rooms, porch, garage, basement, laundry, etc. I would like to
replace every light I can by an energy-saver and would be grateful for
any guidance about the different types, which is good for what.

Use the "Soft White" "green pack" and keep the reciept as you get a 9
Year Warranty, I use 9 and 14w and my bill is 35% less

"Ajanta" wrote in message
...
Of course they are sold everywhere but I have a HD near me.

I see these multipacks in red, blue or green packaging and am trying to
figure out which one is good for what purpose.

I have a normal home with all kind of spaces: lobby, stairs, hallway,
various rooms, porch, garage, basement, laundry, etc. I would like to
replace every light I can by an energy-saver and would be grateful for
any guidance about the different types, which is good for what.


HD sells multi packs in a variety of color variations. You need to concern
yourself with the "equivalent" light output when choosing, and get ones that
are as close to what you are used to with incandescent lamps. you may want
to get a sample of each color variation to see which one is most pleasant to
you

RBM wrote:

: HD sells multi packs in a variety of color variations. You need to concern
: yourself with the "equivalent" light output when choosing, and get ones that
: are as close to what you are used to with incandescent lamps. you may want
: to get a sample of each color variation to see which one is most pleasant to
: you

Thanks. I know about matching the light output. But I was under the
impression that different "packaging colors" or "temperatures" are more
suitable for different application.

Here are my needs:

Front lobby (white walls)
Stairs (light walls, not much sunlight)
Hallway (light walls, no sunlight)

Ceiling lights in living room, dining room, bedrooms, office (windows,
white walls, carpeted, medium-good sunlight)

Various desk and floor lamps
Bathrooms (white walls, no other light)
Basement, storage, laundry (white walls, grey floor, messy)
Outside porch (dark paint)
Garage (rough brick walls, very messy!)

I may have forgotten something but that's most of it.

Ajanta wrote:

Thanks. I know about matching the light output. But I was under the
impression that different "packaging colors" or "temperatures" are
more suitable for different application.


Probably can't do it with CFLs, but the ladies appreciate the entire range
of lights at the vanity. In my house, we have four 50-watt smallish spots,
each one different. This helps the lady fine-tune her makeup for a variety
of conditions.

"Ajanta" wrote in message
...
RBM wrote:

: HD sells multi packs in a variety of color variations. You need to
concern
: yourself with the "equivalent" light output when choosing, and get ones
that
: are as close to what you are used to with incandescent lamps. you may
want
: to get a sample of each color variation to see which one is most
pleasant to
: you

Thanks. I know about matching the light output. But I was under the
impression that different "packaging colors" or "temperatures" are more
suitable for different application.

Here are my needs:

Front lobby (white walls)
Stairs (light walls, not much sunlight)
Hallway (light walls, no sunlight)

Ceiling lights in living room, dining room, bedrooms, office (windows,
white walls, carpeted, medium-good sunlight)

Various desk and floor lamps
Bathrooms (white walls, no other light)
Basement, storage, laundry (white walls, grey floor, messy)
Outside porch (dark paint)
Garage (rough brick walls, very messy!)

I may have forgotten something but that's most of it.

Personally I find all the Kelvin colors available in CF lamps objectionable,
so for me, I try to find a color that I hate the least. YMMV

On Tue, 03 Jun 2008 14:39:44 -0500, Ajanta wrote:

Of course they are sold everywhere but I have a HD near me.

I see these multipacks in red, blue or green packaging and am trying to
figure out which one is good for what purpose.

I have a normal home with all kind of spaces: lobby, stairs, hallway,
various rooms, porch, garage, basement, laundry, etc. I would like to
replace every light I can by an energy-saver and would be grateful for
any guidance about the different types, which is good for what.

I've been using CF bulbs in every application in my house. One thing
I've discovered is that the CF "spotlights" (i.e.: in track lights
over my desk/computer; 4 luminars) seem to burn out VERRRRRRRRY
quickly; as in 14-16 months. Maybe it's the heat retention of the
enclosures, I dunno'.

-Zz

In article , Ajanta wrote:

Of course they are sold everywhere but I have a HD near me.

I see these multipacks in red, blue or green packaging and am trying to
figure out which one is good for what purpose.

I have a normal home with all kind of spaces: lobby, stairs, hallway,
various rooms, porch, garage, basement, laundry, etc. I would like to
replace every light I can by an energy-saver and would be grateful for
any guidance about the different types, which is good for what.

Look for color temperature rating in degrees K.

As for Home Depot in red, green and blue packaging, that makes me think
of N:Vision CFL products.

N:Vision products at Home Depot in green-theme packaging are 2700K ones,
labelled "soft white". 2700K is the usual CFL color, approximating
(whether or not well) the overall color of "typical incandescent light".

N:Vision propducts at Home Depot in red-theme packaging are 3500K ones,
labelled "bright white". 3500K is a "whiter warm white", halogen-like
but a bit whiter. This is my favorite color for CFLs in home use. BEWARE
- this color can appear a bit "dreary gray" when the lighting level is on
the low side. Where lighting level is "lowish average" or less for home
use, 2700K has a good chance of appearing better.

N:Vision products at Home Depot in blue-theme packaging are 5500K ones,
labelled "Daylight". This is an icy cold pure to slightly bluish
(occaisionally very slightly greenish-bluish) white that can easily cause
a "dreary gray effect" in home use. It can appear nice and crisp if used
in desk lamps and the like. It can do well for outdoor illumination at
night as long as the temperature is not unfavorable, since higher kelvin
fluorescents have spectra richer in wavelengths that night vision is
sensitive to.
Do not confuse Sylvania's "Daylight" CFLs (available at Lowes) with
other "Daylight" CFLs. Sylvania chose "Daylight" to be the color name for
CFLs nominally of 3500K, which is a "whitish warm white". Everyone else's
"Daylight" fluorescents and CFLs have color temp. usually nominally
5000-6500 K.

- Don Klipstein )

In article , Ajanta wrote:
RBM wrote:

: HD sells multi packs in a variety of color variations. You need to concern
: yourself with the "equivalent" light output when choosing, and get ones that
: are as close to what you are used to with incandescent lamps. you may want
: to get a sample of each color variation to see which one is most pleasant to
: you

Thanks. I know about matching the light output. But I was under the
impression that different "packaging colors" or "temperatures" are more
suitable for different application.

Here are my needs:

Front lobby (white walls)

If there are any incandescents, use 2700K. If the only/main light
source is CFLs, 3500K has a good chance of looking better as long as you
have enough light to amke things look "nice and bright".

Stairs (light walls, not much sunlight)
Hallway (light walls, no sunlight)

If you want the light to look nice and warm, use 2700K.

If you only want to maximize energy efficiency, use 5500K and use a
wattage one step less than you otherwise would. But be prepared for the
illumination to appear "stark" or "dreary" although adequate for seeing
everything.

Ceiling lights in living room, dining room, bedrooms, office (windows,
white walls, carpeted, medium-good sunlight)

If there will also be significant incandescent lighting present, use
2700K.

Otherwise, use 3500K provided you are producing enough light to make
things appear nice and bright.

Various desk and floor lamps

Desk lamps that achieve lighting in the work area to a very bright
extent at least that typical in offices, classrooms and brighter retail
display areas are likely to do well with 5500K - although that color can
clash with other lighting in the area.

3500K has little chance of going wrong with desk lamps.

Floor lamps should use either 3500K or 2700K. If the lighting level is
higher and there is not much incandescent or 2700K light in the area to
clash with, 3500K has a good chance of looking better. Otherwise use
2700K.

Bathrooms (white walls, no other light)

If the lighting level is nice and bright, my favorite is definitely
3500K. If the lighting level is more like that of a living room with one
or two floor lamps or a couple table lamps, use 2700K.

Basement, storage, laundry (white walls, grey floor, messy)

5500K if you don't mind a stark to drearyish appearance. Otherwise go
lower - 3500K if the lighting level is "nice and bright", 2700K if the
lighting level is only moderate or low.

Outside porch (dark paint)

Hard to make look nice and well-illuminated with any color. My
experiecne suggests 5500K as better for more stimulation of night vision
to see more. But if you want "warm glow" instead, get a "bug light" -
there are now CFL "bug lights" - just don't expect a lot of illumination
effectiveness over a wide area at night.

Garage (rough brick walls, very messy!)

If the lighting level will be on the low side, I expect 5500K to be
"least-worst" despite being stark and likely "dreary".
If you want any cheer, use enough wattage to get a half-decent amount of
light and either 3500 or 2700 K. I would go with 3500K or probably
slightly better still a mixture of 5500's and 2700's if the garage is
unlikely to look good in any light but you want something "warmer" than
5500K.

I may have forgotten something but that's most of it.

- Don Klipstein )

"Ajanta" wrote in message
...
Of course they are sold everywhere but I have a HD near me.

I see these multipacks in red, blue or green packaging and am trying to
figure out which one is good for what purpose.

I have a normal home with all kind of spaces: lobby, stairs, hallway,
various rooms, porch, garage, basement, laundry, etc. I would like to
replace every light I can by an energy-saver and would be grateful for
any guidance about the different types, which is good for what.

I see you got plenty of good information, but let me add a bit more. Don't
be too quick to change all of your lights. If you have a bulb that gets
just a few minutes of use a month, just leave it until the bulb burns out.
I have on light in my basement that is rarely used and I don't recall ever
changing the bulb. Potential energy savings are offset by the cost of the
CF replacement.

In article , Don Klipstein
wrote:

: In article , Ajanta wrote:
: RBM wrote:
:
: : HD sells multi packs in a variety of color variations. You need to concern
: : yourself with the "equivalent" light output when choosing, and get ones
: : that
: : are as close to what you are used to with incandescent lamps. you may want
: : to get a sample of each color variation to see which one is most pleasant
: : to
: : you
:
: Thanks. I know about matching the light output. But I was under the
: impression that different "packaging colors" or "temperatures" are more
: suitable for different application.
:
: Here are my needs:
:
: Front lobby (white walls)
:
: If there are any incandescents, use 2700K. If the only/main light
: source is CFLs, 3500K has a good chance of looking better as long as you
: have enough light to amke things look "nice and bright".
:
: Stairs (light walls, not much sunlight)
: Hallway (light walls, no sunlight)
:
: If you want the light to look nice and warm, use 2700K.
:
: If you only want to maximize energy efficiency, use 5500K and use a
: wattage one step less than you otherwise would. But be prepared for the
: illumination to appear "stark" or "dreary" although adequate for seeing
: everything.
:
: Ceiling lights in living room, dining room, bedrooms, office (windows,
: white walls, carpeted, medium-good sunlight)
:
: If there will also be significant incandescent lighting present, use
: 2700K.
:
: Otherwise, use 3500K provided you are producing enough light to make
: things appear nice and bright.
:
: Various desk and floor lamps
:
: Desk lamps that achieve lighting in the work area to a very bright
: extent at least that typical in offices, classrooms and brighter retail
: display areas are likely to do well with 5500K - although that color can
: clash with other lighting in the area.
:
: 3500K has little chance of going wrong with desk lamps.
:
: Floor lamps should use either 3500K or 2700K. If the lighting level is
: higher and there is not much incandescent or 2700K light in the area to
: clash with, 3500K has a good chance of looking better. Otherwise use
: 2700K.
:
: Bathrooms (white walls, no other light)
:
: If the lighting level is nice and bright, my favorite is definitely
: 3500K. If the lighting level is more like that of a living room with one
: or two floor lamps or a couple table lamps, use 2700K.
:
: Basement, storage, laundry (white walls, grey floor, messy)
:
: 5500K if you don't mind a stark to drearyish appearance. Otherwise go
: lower - 3500K if the lighting level is "nice and bright", 2700K if the
: lighting level is only moderate or low.
:
: Outside porch (dark paint)
:
: Hard to make look nice and well-illuminated with any color. My
: experiecne suggests 5500K as better for more stimulation of night vision
: to see more. But if you want "warm glow" instead, get a "bug light" -
: there are now CFL "bug lights" - just don't expect a lot of illumination
: effectiveness over a wide area at night.
:
: Garage (rough brick walls, very messy!)
:
: If the lighting level will be on the low side, I expect 5500K to be
: "least-worst" despite being stark and likely "dreary".
: If you want any cheer, use enough wattage to get a half-decent amount of
: light and either 3500 or 2700 K. I would go with 3500K or probably
: slightly better still a mixture of 5500's and 2700's if the garage is
: unlikely to look good in any light but you want something "warmer" than
: 5500K.

Thanks for a great tutorial, just what I was looking for!

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

: If you have a bulb that gets
: just a few minutes of use a month, just leave it until the bulb burns out.
: I have on light in my basement that is rarely used and I don't recall ever
: changing the bulb. Potential energy savings are offset by the cost of the
: CF replacement.

That's a great point and I'll certainly want to remember it. Obviously,
some bulbs do get much more use than others. The external porch light
is on 8-10 hours each night, storage room 10-15 minutes at most.

However, I am also wondering if there is a grey area: if some bulbs are
getting used less because we know they are expensive to operate, if we
would use them more if they were energy-saving? Not sure how many
fall in that category, but I'll go over that point with my family.

In article ,
Ajanta wrote:

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

: If you have a bulb that gets
: just a few minutes of use a month, just leave it until the bulb burns out.
: I have on light in my basement that is rarely used and I don't recall ever
: changing the bulb. Potential energy savings are offset by the cost of the
: CF replacement.

That's a great point and I'll certainly want to remember it. Obviously,
some bulbs do get much more use than others. The external porch light
is on 8-10 hours each night, storage room 10-15 minutes at most.

However, I am also wondering if there is a grey area: if some bulbs are
getting used less because we know they are expensive to operate, if we
would use them more if they were energy-saving? Not sure how many
fall in that category, but I'll go over that point with my family.

Along those lines, CF proponents are actually advocating that you leave
the lights on to avoid the drawbacks of the technology -- slow warm up,
and greatly shortened lifespan by turning them on and off. Just another
idiotic aspect of the whole concept. CFs are NIMH.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
I see you got plenty of good information, but let me add a bit more.
Don't be too quick to change all of your lights. If you have a bulb
that gets just a few minutes of use a month, just leave it until the
bulb burns out. I have on light in my basement that is rarely used
and I don't recall ever changing the bulb. Potential energy savings
are offset by the cost of the CF replacement.

Of course some people believe that reduced energy usage doesn't have to be
about saving *me* money. Reduced energy usage is a positive thing on its
own. If you save some money at the same time, great, but that does not have
to be the only motivation.

None of them puts out quite as much light as the bulb they claim to replace.
So when you really need a good light you should consider a larger size. I
have a 26 watt ("100 watt eqivalent") for the reading lamp by my chair.

At the other end of the scale, the smaller ones use so little power that you
can consdider using them as "night lights" and just leave them on 24/7.

The problem for many applications is the SIZE! For many fixtures you have
to buy the compact size CFL. But in any fixture, generaly go for the
largest CFL than will fit.

Most of them start off at reduced brightness. Can be advantage (say, in a
bathroom) but you have to accept it in any case.

We have them all over the house. EVERY interior lamp has been replaced by
a CFL in our home.

There are a few places where you might want to use a more traditional
flourescent lamp fixtures. See what's available and decide for yourself
whether replacing the fixture with a flourescent fixture makes sense for
you.


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Jun 4, 7:27*am, "Rick Brandt" wrote:
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
I see you got plenty of good information, but let me add a bit more.
Don't be too quick to change all of your lights. *If you have a bulb
that gets just a few minutes of use a month, just leave it until the
bulb burns out. I have on light in my basement that is rarely used
and I don't recall ever changing the bulb. *Potential energy savings
are offset by the cost of the CF replacement.

Of course some people believe that reduced energy usage doesn't have to be
about saving *me* money. *Reduced energy usage is a positive thing on its
own. *If you save some money at the same time, great, but that does not have
to be the only motivation.

this is true but:

energy = money and money = energy

the extra energy needed to build the CFL lamp is reflected in its
extra cost.

the extra energy needed to build a hybrid car is reflected in it's
extra cost.

so if you are REALLY saving energy you WILL also be saving money.

and if you aren't able to save money with it...you probably aren't
really saving any energy.

Mark

"Rick Brandt" wrote in message
...
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
I see you got plenty of good information, but let me add a bit more.
Don't be too quick to change all of your lights. If you have a bulb
that gets just a few minutes of use a month, just leave it until the
bulb burns out. I have on light in my basement that is rarely used
and I don't recall ever changing the bulb. Potential energy savings
are offset by the cost of the CF replacement.

Of course some people believe that reduced energy usage doesn't have to be
about saving *me* money. Reduced energy usage is a positive thing on its
own. If you save some money at the same time, great, but that does not
have to be the only motivation.

Right, put that good incandescent bulb in the landfill and use the CF and
all the manufacturing waste that went into it. You still need to use a bit
of common sense.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Rick Brandt" wrote in message
...

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

I see you got plenty of good information, but let me add a bit more.
Don't be too quick to change all of your lights. If you have a bulb
that gets just a few minutes of use a month, just leave it until the
bulb burns out. I have on light in my basement that is rarely used
and I don't recall ever changing the bulb. Potential energy savings
are offset by the cost of the CF replacement.

Of course some people believe that reduced energy usage doesn't have to be
about saving *me* money. Reduced energy usage is a positive thing on its
own. If you save some money at the same time, great, but that does not
have to be the only motivation.


Right, put that good incandescent bulb in the landfill and use the CF and
all the manufacturing waste that went into it. You still need to use a bit
of common sense.


Hi,
Another way of saving energy is moving standard voltage to 220V all across.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Right, put that good incandescent bulb in the landfill and use the CF
and all the manufacturing waste that went into it. You still need to
use a bit of common sense.

Right. But don't forget that the waste generated in the manufacture of the
CFL (refining Mercury, copper smelting, etc.) takes place in China. We get
the (almost) pristine result.

On Jun 3, 2:39 pm, Ajanta wrote:
Of course they are sold everywhere but I have a HD near me.

I see these multipacks in red, blue or green packaging and am trying to
figure out which one is good for what purpose.

Hey, are any of the new ones dimmable? I can now find dimmable CFL
floodlights at stores but not "normal" bulbs.

Also, how quick are they to warm up? Some of the CFLs I have come on
at about half light immediately and warm up over a few minutes to full
brightness. Those are great! Some others are really dim when they
first come on and are very slow to warm up. Still usable but annoying
in some uses.

As for when to replace them I am replacing bulbs as they burn out and
sometimes swapping bulbs (put in a CFL for the oft used kitchen light
and use that old bulb from there to replace an infrequent use one that
burnt out elsewhere). I really decided to dive into this when 3 of 5
standard bulbs in my kitchen and 3 of 6 halogen floodlights in my
family room burned out in one week!

Tony Hwang wrote:

Hi,
Another way of saving energy is moving standard voltage to 220V all across.

It seems universal that most people think going to 220V (240VAC) is
going to save them a lot of money. The only way it will is if you are
running a lot of equipment that draws 30 or more amps. And in that
situation most high current devices are already on 240VAC (electric
clothes dryer, electric range).

The losses from using 120VAC comes from the resistance in your wiring
and all connections. If your wiring is half decent and you aren't
running clothes dryers on 120VAC, 240VAC isn't going to help you more
than a couple pennies a month, maybe a year.

Tony

WDS wrote:
On Jun 3, 2:39 pm, Ajanta wrote:
Of course they are sold everywhere but I have a HD near me.

I see these multipacks in red, blue or green packaging and am trying to
figure out which one is good for what purpose.

Hey, are any of the new ones dimmable? I can now find dimmable CFL
floodlights at stores but not "normal" bulbs.

Also, how quick are they to warm up? Some of the CFLs I have come on
at about half light immediately and warm up over a few minutes to full
brightness. Those are great! Some others are really dim when they
first come on and are very slow to warm up. Still usable but annoying
in some uses.

As for when to replace them I am replacing bulbs as they burn out and
sometimes swapping bulbs (put in a CFL for the oft used kitchen light
and use that old bulb from there to replace an infrequent use one that
burnt out elsewhere). I really decided to dive into this when 3 of 5
standard bulbs in my kitchen and 3 of 6 halogen floodlights in my
family room burned out in one week!

Moving an incandescent lamp to different fixtures will cause it to fail
a hell of a lot faster then if it stays in the same fixture. In its
original location the hot filament stretches and hangs downward and it
likes to stay that way. Moving it to a different location means that
the filament will now sag and hang in a different position and this
causes premature failure.

Tony

On Thu, 05 Jun 2008 14:03:51 -0400, Tony Miklos
wrote:

Moving an incandescent lamp to different fixtures will cause it to fail
a hell of a lot faster then if it stays in the same fixture. In its
original location the hot filament stretches and hangs downward and it
likes to stay that way. Moving it to a different location means that
the filament will now sag and hang in a different position and this
causes premature failure.

This was really interesting to read! Thanks for posting it.