I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. At least
that is what I thought. For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out. Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply
store. They carry a good selection of welding items, and they did
have the thicker plug. I was just going to change it, when I
discovered that I can not figure out how to remove the old plug. I
dont want to break it, because I may want to use my old welder in the
future again.

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. How the
heck do these things come off? I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Thanks

In article ,
wrote:

I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. At least
that is what I thought. For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out. Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply
store. They carry a good selection of welding items, and they did
have the thicker plug. I was just going to change it, when I
discovered that I can not figure out how to remove the old plug. I
dont want to break it, because I may want to use my old welder in the
future again.

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. How the
heck do these things come off? I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Thanks

Tweco connectors have a set screw, but some others are force fit over
the brass center.
The outer rubber cover can be pried off using 2 flat screwdrivers as
prybars.


It helps to warm the rubber in hot water first.

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:24:29 -0600, wrote:

I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. At least
that is what I thought. For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out. Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply
store. They carry a good selection of welding items, and they did
have the thicker plug. I was just going to change it, when I
discovered that I can not figure out how to remove the old plug. I
dont want to break it, because I may want to use my old welder in the
future again.

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. How the
heck do these things come off? I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Thanks

Post a couple pictures in the Dropbox

Gunner

In article ,
) says...

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. How the
heck do these things come off? I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Factory cables often have press fit connectors. If you don't find a set
screw, you will just have to cut the connector off. Try heat on the
plastic to see if you can soften it enough to slide it back.

--
For email, replace firstnamelastinitial
with my first name and last initial.

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 07:28:24 -0800, Larry Caldwell
wrote:
snip
Factory cables often have press fit connectors. If you don't find a set
screw, you will just have to cut the connector off. Try heat on the
plastic to see if you can soften it enough to slide it back.
snip
Some connectors are molded on after the metal portion is crimped.
Can be a useful cost reduction for the cable mfgr. if the volume
is high enough. PITA for the end-use to change/replace though.

wrote:

I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. At least
that is what I thought. For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out. Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply
store. They carry a good selection of welding items, and they did
have the thicker plug. I was just going to change it, when I
discovered that I can not figure out how to remove the old plug. I
dont want to break it, because I may want to use my old welder in the
future again.

Could you buy a "thicker" socket in addition to the new "thicker" plug
and use the two of them to make a "plug adaptor" so you'd be able to
easily use the Ground Cable on your old welder when and if you need to?

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.


The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. How the
heck do these things come off? I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Thanks

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 00:35:46 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:24:29 -0600, wrote:

I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. At least
that is what I thought. For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out. Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply
store. They carry a good selection of welding items, and they did
have the thicker plug. I was just going to change it, when I
discovered that I can not figure out how to remove the old plug. I
dont want to break it, because I may want to use my old welder in the
future again.

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. How the
heck do these things come off? I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Thanks

Post a couple pictures in the Dropbox

Gunner

Thanks for all the help.
It's too late for pictures. I pried and pounded and beat on the thing
for close to two hours, until it was so far destroyed that I just took
my angle grinder and cut the insulator shell off. I had figured I
could use a piece of auto heater hose. But when I got this insulator
off, I found the brass part was soldered on to the cable. At this
point I just cut it off and threw it in the trash. I'd never be able
to switch it on the cable to use the other welder. I'll just buy
another screw on one to fit that welder, or maybe just make another
cable entirely. If I had known it would be such a hassle, I might
have just made another cable completely and not ruined that plug. I
could use a longer cable anyhow, so I will likely buy more wire and
make the longer one for the new welder and put the smaller end on for
the older one. I tend to think someone glued the insulator onto the
knurled brass piece because I just would not come off no matter how
much I beat on it.

I like the new screw on one much better. One large 1/4" hex screw
against the wire, and a small screw to hold on the insulator. One
minute to install, and it was done...... For a $7 plug, that was just
too much trouble, not to mention jabbing my hand with a screwdriver,
and bleeding all over the place. Live and learn, and I learned this
one the hard way....

Thanks again

wrote:
On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 00:35:46 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:24:29 -0600, wrote:

I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. At least
that is what I thought. For some reason the plug on the Ground
Cable on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the
standard cable plugs fall right out. Yesterday I stopped at our
local farm supply store. They carry a good selection of welding
items, and they did have the thicker plug. I was just going to
change it, when I discovered that I can not figure out how to
remove the old plug. I dont want to break it, because I may want
to use my old welder in the future again.

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. How the
heck do these things come off? I'm guessing there's a set screw
under that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the
brass plug, but first I need to get that insulator off and I have
no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Thanks

Post a couple pictures in the Dropbox

Gunner

Thanks for all the help.
It's too late for pictures. I pried and pounded and beat on the thing
for close to two hours, until it was so far destroyed that I just took
my angle grinder and cut the insulator shell off. I had figured I
could use a piece of auto heater hose. But when I got this insulator
off, I found the brass part was soldered on to the cable. At this
point I just cut it off and threw it in the trash. I'd never be able
to switch it on the cable to use the other welder. I'll just buy
another screw on one to fit that welder, or maybe just make another
cable entirely. If I had known it would be such a hassle, I might
have just made another cable completely and not ruined that plug. I
could use a longer cable anyhow, so I will likely buy more wire and
make the longer one for the new welder and put the smaller end on for
the older one. I tend to think someone glued the insulator onto the
knurled brass piece because I just would not come off no matter how
much I beat on it.

I like the new screw on one much better. One large 1/4" hex screw
against the wire, and a small screw to hold on the insulator. One
minute to install, and it was done...... For a $7 plug, that was just
too much trouble, not to mention jabbing my hand with a screwdriver,
and bleeding all over the place. Live and learn, and I learned this
one the hard way....

Thanks again

But, your experience may help others for years to come nowg.

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 00:35:46 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:24:29 -0600, wrote:

I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. At least
that is what I thought. For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out. Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply
store. They carry a good selection of welding items, and they did
have the thicker plug. I was just going to change it, when I
discovered that I can not figure out how to remove the old plug. I
dont want to break it, because I may want to use my old welder in the
future again.

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. How the
heck do these things come off? I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Thanks

Post a couple pictures in the Dropbox

Gunner

Thanks for all the help.
It's too late for pictures. I pried and pounded and beat on the thing
for close to two hours, until it was so far destroyed that I just took
my angle grinder and cut the insulator shell off. I had figured I
could use a piece of auto heater hose. But when I got this insulator
off, I found the brass part was soldered on to the cable. At this
point I just cut it off and threw it in the trash. I'd never be able
to switch it on the cable to use the other welder. I'll just buy
another screw on one to fit that welder, or maybe just make another
cable entirely. If I had known it would be such a hassle, I might
have just made another cable completely and not ruined that plug. I
could use a longer cable anyhow, so I will likely buy more wire and
make the longer one for the new welder and put the smaller end on for
the older one. I tend to think someone glued the insulator onto the
knurled brass piece because I just would not come off no matter how
much I beat on it.

I like the new screw on one much better. One large 1/4" hex screw
against the wire, and a small screw to hold on the insulator. One
minute to install, and it was done...... For a $7 plug, that was just
too much trouble, not to mention jabbing my hand with a screwdriver,
and bleeding all over the place. Live and learn, and I learned this
one the hard way....

Thanks again


Just wait until you see the price of new cable!!

Ivan Vegvary

On Jan 11, 3:55*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 00:35:46 -0800, Gunner





wrote:
On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:24:29 -0600, wrote:

I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. *The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. *The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. *At least
that is what I thought. *For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out. *Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply
store. *They carry a good selection of welding items, and they did
have the thicker plug. *I was just going to change it, when I
discovered that I can not figure out how to remove the old plug. *I
dont want to break it, because I may want to use my old welder in the
future again. *

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. *There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. *Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. *How the
heck do these things come off? *I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Thanks

Post a couple pictures in the Dropbox

Gunner

Thanks for all the help.
It's too late for pictures. *I pried and pounded and beat on the thing
for close to two hours, until it was so far destroyed that I just took
my angle grinder and cut the insulator shell off. *I had figured I
could use a piece of auto heater hose. *But when I got this insulator
off, I found the brass part was soldered on to the cable. *At this
point I just cut it off and threw it in the trash. *I'd never be able
to switch it on the cable to use the other welder. *I'll just buy
another screw on one to fit that welder, or maybe just make another
cable entirely. *If I had known it would be such a hassle, I might
have just made another cable completely and not ruined that plug. *I
could use a longer cable anyhow, so I will likely buy more wire and
make the longer one for the new welder and put the smaller end on for
the older one. *I tend to think someone glued the insulator onto the
knurled brass piece because I just would not come off no matter how
much I beat on it.

I like the new screw on one much better. *One large 1/4" hex screw
against the wire, and a small screw to hold on the insulator. *One
minute to install, and it was done...... For a $7 plug, that was just
too much trouble, not to mention jabbing my hand with a screwdriver,
and bleeding all over the place. *Live and learn, and I learned this
one the hard way....

Thanks again- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Your old welder wouldn't happen to be a Century or Sears would it?

Years ago I had one that had just the connector that you described.

TMT

On 2008-01-11, wrote:
I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. At least
that is what I thought. For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out.

I suspect that is intended to reduce the chances of accidentally
interchanging the ground and the hot. Is this a fancier machine with
switches to change the polarity at need? Or an AC machine, where it
does not matter what polarity is used?

Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply
store. They carry a good selection of welding items, and they did
have the thicker plug. I was just going to change it, when I
discovered that I can not figure out how to remove the old plug. I
dont want to break it, because I may want to use my old welder in the
future again.

Did you bother to buy the plug, or did you leave it in the
store? Examining the new plug might give you clues as to how the old
one is fitted.

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. How the
heck do these things come off? I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Well ... I've seen lots of high current connectors, and the
possibilities a

1) Wire soldered or crimped into connector, and the plastic sleeve
molded on.

2) Wire soldered or crimped into connector, and the plastic sleeve
screwed onto the connector body. Grip the pin, and turn the
sleeve counter-clockwise (viewed from the cable end). (Check
whether the sleeve has a smaller minimum diameter at the cable
end than at the pin end. If otherwise, then it may unscrew from
the pin end instead, so you rotate it the other way.

3) Wire soldered into connector with a two-part sleeve screwed
around an increased diameter part of the pin.

4) (2) or (3) above -- but with the setscrew which you expect
(which I think less likely for the kind of current which you
need to carry.

Note that I have seen some connectors with covers like (3) above
which were two-part in the metal, too. The pin is female
threaded in the back, and there is a sleeve which slides on over
the wire and which is then soldered in place. The sleeve has a
matching male thread, so it is screwed into the pin after the
soldering is complete, and then the two halves of the sleeve are
screwed together over that. (Obviously, the cable end of the
plastic sleeve has to be slid onto the wire before the pin is
screwed in place -- and (depending on sizes) perhaps before the
metal sleeve is soldered to the wire.

5) One of the many other possible ones.

If you need to keep the cable so it can go back into the old
welder's connector as well, I would suggest that you buy the male
connector to fit your new welder, a short (perhaps one foot) length of
cable, and a female connector to fit the connector on your old cable, so
you have adapted it to the new welder.

I note that you have cross-posted this, but I don't see signs of
what I would have considered the best newsgroup for the purpose, SEJW
(sci.engineering.joining.welding). They certainly have experience with
the connectors used in welders.

I've not read that newsgroup, as I do not have (yet) a welder,
though I have lots of experience with various styles of connectors,
including some high-current ones.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2008-01-11, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 00:35:46 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:24:29 -0600, wrote:

[ ... ]

Anyone have any idea????

[ ... ]

Post a couple pictures in the Dropbox

[ ... ]

Thanks for all the help.
It's too late for pictures. I pried and pounded and beat on the thing
for close to two hours, until it was so far destroyed that I just took

[ ... ]

the older one. I tend to think someone glued the insulator onto the
knurled brass piece because I just would not come off no matter how
much I beat on it.

Knurled suggests that it was either moulded in place around the
completed connection, or that it was rammed into the plastic insulator
when hot, allowing the knurling to lock it in place.

Once you got rid of the plastic insulator, you could have
clamped the tip into a vise, and used a propane torch to heat the joint
enough to release the cable from the connector pin.

I like the new screw on one much better. One large 1/4" hex screw
against the wire, and a small screw to hold on the insulator.

I would have preferred a solder-on connector, or a crimp-on if I
had the proper crimping tools. For a few months, you probably should
take off the insulator and snug up the setscrew holding the wire into
the connector pin body.

One
minute to install, and it was done...... For a $7 plug, that was just
too much trouble, not to mention jabbing my hand with a screwdriver,
and bleeding all over the place. Live and learn, and I learned this
one the hard way....

And if you had waited, among other things you could have seen my
suggestion (just posted) for making a short (one foot) adaptor cable, so
you could switch the cable between machines at need.

And actually -- I probably would have gone to a larger cable as
well, so you can use greater length without having significant losses.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sat, 12 Jan 2008 02:19:06 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 00:35:46 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:24:29 -0600, wrote:

I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. At least
that is what I thought. For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out. Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply
store. They carry a good selection of welding items, and they did
have the thicker plug. I was just going to change it, when I
discovered that I can not figure out how to remove the old plug. I
dont want to break it, because I may want to use my old welder in the
future again.

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. How the
heck do these things come off? I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Thanks

Post a couple pictures in the Dropbox

Gunner

Thanks for all the help.
It's too late for pictures. I pried and pounded and beat on the thing
for close to two hours, until it was so far destroyed that I just took
my angle grinder and cut the insulator shell off. I had figured I
could use a piece of auto heater hose. But when I got this insulator
off, I found the brass part was soldered on to the cable. At this
point I just cut it off and threw it in the trash. I'd never be able
to switch it on the cable to use the other welder. I'll just buy
another screw on one to fit that welder, or maybe just make another
cable entirely. If I had known it would be such a hassle, I might
have just made another cable completely and not ruined that plug. I
could use a longer cable anyhow, so I will likely buy more wire and
make the longer one for the new welder and put the smaller end on for
the older one. I tend to think someone glued the insulator onto the
knurled brass piece because I just would not come off no matter how
much I beat on it.

I like the new screw on one much better. One large 1/4" hex screw
against the wire, and a small screw to hold on the insulator. One
minute to install, and it was done...... For a $7 plug, that was just
too much trouble, not to mention jabbing my hand with a screwdriver,
and bleeding all over the place. Live and learn, and I learned this
one the hard way....

Thanks again


Just wait until you see the price of new cable!!

Ivan Vegvary


I went to my Secret Source for 100' of used #2 welding cable to put on
the Ranger 9.

Guy wanted $75. I nearly soiled my knickers.

Its gonna have to wait for a while.

Gunner

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 18:26:51 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

Your old welder wouldn't happen to be a Century or Sears would it?

Years ago I had one that had just the connector that you described.

TMT

The NEW welder is a Sears. It has 3 plugs on it.
GROUND (the thicker one)
POS. HI and POS LO (thinner ones).
There is a lever that turns on the top to adjust the power level.
It's an AC (only) stick welder.

The old welder is an unidentified brand. It's rusted and ugly, and
has about a dozen plugs on it for different power levels, but no
adjustment knob. I bought it at an auction for a couple bucks about
10 years ago. It works, but this new one works better and has more
power. I never knew which plug did what on that older welder, because
the rust destroyed the lettering on it. I got to know which was which
thru trial and error. I might just scrap that old one since I hooked
up the Sears one, I know it's a much better welder. Seems to be a
waste of garage space keeping that old one.

I called the farm supply store and was shocked to learn that welding
cable is almost $3 a foot....... I'll wait till I find some used ones
at another farm auction.

Thanks for all the help !!!!

On Jan 12, 3:29*am, Gunner wrote:
On Sat, 12 Jan 2008 02:19:06 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:







wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 00:35:46 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:24:29 -0600, wrote:

I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. *The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. *The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. *At least
that is what I thought. *For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out. *Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply
store. *They carry a good selection of welding items, and they did
have the thicker plug. *I was just going to change it, when I
discovered that I can not figure out how to remove the old plug. *I
dont want to break it, because I may want to use my old welder in the
future again.

The cable end has a molded kind of material that is shaped like a
piece of plastic pipe about 3/4" thick and 3" long. *There is no set
screw in it, no hole in the side of it, and it does not seem to be
screwed on. *Tapping on it does not seem to slide it back. *How the
heck do these things come off? *I'm guessing there's a set screw under
that molded "pipe" insulator, to take the wire out of the brass plug,
but first I need to get that insulator off and I have no clue how.

Anyone have any idea????

Thanks

Post a couple pictures in the Dropbox

Gunner

Thanks for all the help.
It's too late for pictures. *I pried and pounded and beat on the thing
for close to two hours, until it was so far destroyed that I just took
my angle grinder and cut the insulator shell off. *I had figured I
could use a piece of auto heater hose. *But when I got this insulator
off, I found the brass part was soldered on to the cable. *At this
point I just cut it off and threw it in the trash. *I'd never be able
to switch it on the cable to use the other welder. *I'll just buy
another screw on one to fit that welder, or maybe just make another
cable entirely. *If I had known it would be such a hassle, I might
have just made another cable completely and not ruined that plug. *I
could use a longer cable anyhow, so I will likely buy more wire and
make the longer one for the new welder and put the smaller end on for
the older one. *I tend to think someone glued the insulator onto the
knurled brass piece because I just would not come off no matter how
much I beat on it.

I like the new screw on one much better. *One large 1/4" hex screw
against the wire, and a small screw to hold on the insulator. *One
minute to install, and it was done...... For a $7 plug, that was just
too much trouble, not to mention jabbing my hand with a screwdriver,
and bleeding all over the place. *Live and learn, and I learned this
one the hard way....

Thanks again

Just wait until you see the price of new cable!!

Ivan Vegvary

I went to my Secret Source for 100' of used #2 welding cable to put on
the Ranger 9.

Guy wanted $75. I nearly soiled my knickers.

Its gonna have to wait for a while.

Gunner- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It isn't going to get any cheaper Gunner.

There is a Chinese HSMer who is willing to buy it for his new to him
welder.

The ONLY chance you might have is to find some cable hidden in some
old warehouse.

Being that you want 100' and that the metal vultures have been
stealing scrap for quite some time, I think the possibility of finding
any decent cable used is almost nil.

A thought...do you know of anyone who has a junked welder for sale?
Buying that CHEAP and salvaging it out might get you the cables you
want.

I have been noticing lately that any used welders I have seen sold
have been without their cables.

TMT

On Jan 12, 12:18*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 18:26:51 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools

wrote:
Your old welder wouldn't happen to be a Century or Sears would it?

Years ago I had one that had just the connector that you described.

TMT

The NEW welder is a Sears. *It has 3 plugs on it. *
GROUND (the thicker one)
POS. HI and POS LO (thinner ones).
There is a lever that turns on the top to adjust the power level.
It's an AC (only) stick welder.

The old welder is an unidentified brand. *It's rusted and ugly, and
has about a dozen plugs on it for different power levels, but no
adjustment knob. *I bought it at an auction for a couple bucks about
10 years ago. *It works, but this new one works better and has more
power. *I never knew which plug did what on that older welder, because
the rust destroyed the lettering on it. *I got to know which was which
thru trial and error. *I might just scrap that old one since I hooked
up the Sears one, I know it's a much better welder. *Seems to be a
waste of garage space keeping that old one. *

I called the farm supply store and was shocked to learn that welding
cable is almost $3 a foot....... *I'll wait till I find some used ones
at another farm auction.

Thanks for all the help !!!!

That old welder has lots of copper in it. ;)

Try talking your local junkyard into swapping the welder for some
cable.

TMT

wrote in message
news
I just bought a used welder which is larger than my old one. The
seller only sold the welder, not his cables. The cables on my old
welder are fine, and are supposedly made for all welders. At least
that is what I thought. For some reason the plug on the Ground Cable
on this new welder is thicker than the Hot one, so the standard cable
plugs fall right out. Yesterday I stopped at our local farm supply

Understand you've already cut off the smaller plug. Faced a similar
situation with both my leads and made "collets" to adapt between the two
sizes. Turned to fit inside the larger female plug and drilled to fit the
smaller male plug, split with hacksaw. I used brass.

Wayne Sippola
Moose Jaw