On 2008-01-11, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 00:35:46 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:24:29 -0600, wrote:

[ ... ]

Anyone have any idea????

[ ... ]

Post a couple pictures in the Dropbox

[ ... ]

Thanks for all the help.
It's too late for pictures. I pried and pounded and beat on the thing
for close to two hours, until it was so far destroyed that I just took

[ ... ]

the older one. I tend to think someone glued the insulator onto the
knurled brass piece because I just would not come off no matter how
much I beat on it.

Knurled suggests that it was either moulded in place around the
completed connection, or that it was rammed into the plastic insulator
when hot, allowing the knurling to lock it in place.

Once you got rid of the plastic insulator, you could have
clamped the tip into a vise, and used a propane torch to heat the joint
enough to release the cable from the connector pin.

I like the new screw on one much better. One large 1/4" hex screw
against the wire, and a small screw to hold on the insulator.

I would have preferred a solder-on connector, or a crimp-on if I
had the proper crimping tools. For a few months, you probably should
take off the insulator and snug up the setscrew holding the wire into
the connector pin body.

One
minute to install, and it was done...... For a $7 plug, that was just
too much trouble, not to mention jabbing my hand with a screwdriver,
and bleeding all over the place. Live and learn, and I learned this
one the hard way....

And if you had waited, among other things you could have seen my
suggestion (just posted) for making a short (one foot) adaptor cable, so
you could switch the cable between machines at need.

And actually -- I probably would have gone to a larger cable as
well, so you can use greater length without having significant losses.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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