I live in the Seattle area. I have a 2.5 car garage which I am developing
into a woodworking shop. There will be 1 car parked there also. Although
it generally doesn't get quite as cold here as it does in some other parts
of the country, it gets cold ENOUGH at times during winter to keep me out of
the shop. I'd like to add some source of heat. The shop has 2 wooden
single car garage doors, reasonably well sealed, unheated living space
about, 2 78" x 48" double pane windows, an 8' ceiling, and drywall on all
walls. Walls are currently uninsulated, but adding blown in insulation
should be pretty easy. To start, I am considering either an electric
heater, such as this: http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx. Although
the specs on this one say up to 500 sq', the climate here's not that cold,
plus all I really want it to do is get the space up to 55-60. The downside
is the cost of electricity to run the unit.

Another option seems to be a non-vented propane heater (we do not have
natural gas) like this one:
http://www.heatershop.com/garage_heater_gp30t.html Pretty cheap, but I'd
have to buy a 100# propane tank to go with it which adds cost, though
operation is probably a lot less than the electric type. But I'm not sure
I'm totally comfortable with using a non-vented propane heater.

I'm sure there are people here with experience heating a workshop. Any
suggestions appreciated.

TIA

Dan

"Dan" wrote in message
. ..
I live in the Seattle area. I have a 2.5 car garage which I am developing
into a woodworking shop. There will be 1 car parked there also. Although
it generally doesn't get quite as cold here as it does in some other parts
of the country, it gets cold ENOUGH at times during winter to keep me out
of the shop. I'd like to add some source of heat. The shop has 2 wooden
single car garage doors, reasonably well sealed, unheated living space
about, 2 78" x 48" double pane windows, an 8' ceiling, and drywall on all
walls. Walls are currently uninsulated, but adding blown in insulation
should be pretty easy. To start, I am considering either an electric
heater, such as this: http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx.
Although the specs on this one say up to 500 sq', the climate here's not
that cold, plus all I really want it to do is get the space up to 55-60.
The downside is the cost of electricity to run the unit.

It is using about 5,000 Watts per hour. If, like here in CT, you pay 17¢ a
kW, it would cost you 85¢ an hour to run.



Another option seems to be a non-vented propane heater (we do not have
natural gas) like this one:
http://www.heatershop.com/garage_heater_gp30t.html Pretty cheap, but I'd
have to buy a 100# propane tank to go with it which adds cost, though
operation is probably a lot less than the electric type. But I'm not sure
I'm totally comfortable with using a non-vented propane heater.

I use a non vented heater. It is OK and cheaper to run than anything
electric in most areas. Non vented heaters put some water in the air too,
but it has not been a problem for me. The one you suggest is also twice
the output of the electric you are considering. You may want to also
consider the Modine Hot Dawg. Starting at $479, it is more expensive, but it
is vented. http://www.gas-space-heater.com/modine-hot-dawg.html


Other considerations. How cold does it get where you are? I have
temperatures below zero and that keeps me out of the shop with a 30,000 Btu
heater that can't keep up. You are more moderate so the smaller units may
work well. How much time will you use the shop? Two hours a week does not
justify the same expense as 20 hours a week. Rather than buy a tank, your
propane dealer may be willing to supply one if you buy his gas. I cook with
propane and they supply the tanks. My gas cost is about $180 a year.

"bob kater" wrote in message
...
So I assume you have no gas available so like me it was easier to buy a
heat/cool window unit for my shop and insulate. 25 degrees this morning
and 60 in my shop in about an hour. I do not leave it on and keep my glues
etc in a small non working refrigerator with a small bulb on all the time.
Do what you gotta do sometimes.

Thanks for the reply Bob. Don't really need the AC too much here, even for
me, one who despises heat/humidity ;-) The refrig idea is a good one.

Dan

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
et...
It is using about 5,000 Watts per hour. If, like here in CT, you pay 17¢
a kW, it would cost you 85¢ an hour to run.

Yeah, it's not really all that much, even less here in fact, about $.08/KWH,
due to the fact the area gets 80%+ of its volts from hydro.

I think this is the way to go, especially if I can find a similarly sized
heater for a bit less...

Thanks for the reply.

Dan

If the doors are reasonably sealed and the walls insulated you should
try a portable electric heater. For safety reasons I use an OIL
FILLED electric heater (no hot element, cost about $40 to buy and
about 20 cents an hour). With a reasonable amount of lights, and your
air cleaner operating, you have an additional 750 watts to add to the
1500 from the heater. Try that first, at little or no cost, and you
might be satisfied on many winter days in Seattle. You can always add
another heater if you need it.

regards

Howard

On Nov 24, 8:56 pm, "Dan" wrote:
I live in the Seattle area. I have a 2.5 car garage which I am developing
into a woodworking shop. There will be 1 car parked there also. Although
it generally doesn't get quite as cold here as it does in some other parts
of the country, it gets cold ENOUGH at times during winter to keep me out of
the shop. I'd like to add some source of heat. The shop has 2 wooden
single car garage doors, reasonably well sealed, unheated living space
about, 2 78" x 48" double pane windows, an 8' ceiling, and drywall on all
walls. Walls are currently uninsulated, but adding blown in insulation
should be pretty easy. To start, I am considering either an electric
heater, such as this:http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx. Although
the specs on this one say up to 500 sq', the climate here's not that cold,
plus all I really want it to do is get the space up to 55-60. The downside
is the cost of electricity to run the unit.

Another option seems to be a non-vented propane heater (we do not have
natural gas) like this one:http://www.heatershop.com/garage_heater_gp30t.html Pretty cheap, but I'd
have to buy a 100# propane tank to go with it which adds cost, though
operation is probably a lot less than the electric type. But I'm not sure
I'm totally comfortable with using a non-vented propane heater.

I'm sure there are people here with experience heating a workshop. Any
suggestions appreciated.

TIA

Dan

On Nov 24, 10:56 pm, "Dan" wrote:
I live in the Seattle area. I have a 2.5 car garage which I am developing
into a woodworking shop. There will be 1 car parked there also. Although
it generally doesn't get quite as cold here as it does in some other parts
of the country, it gets cold ENOUGH at times during winter to keep me out of
the shop. I'd like to add some source of heat. The shop has 2 wooden
single car garage doors, reasonably well sealed, unheated living space
about, 2 78" x 48" double pane windows, an 8' ceiling, and drywall on all
walls. Walls are currently uninsulated, but adding blown in insulation
should be pretty easy. To start, I am considering either an electric
heater, such as this:http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx. Although
the specs on this one say up to 500 sq', the climate here's not that cold,
plus all I really want it to do is get the space up to 55-60. The downside
is the cost of electricity to run the unit.

Another option seems to be a non-vented propane heater (we do not have
natural gas) like this one:http://www.heatershop.com/garage_heater_gp30t.html Pretty cheap, but I'd
have to buy a 100# propane tank to go with it which adds cost, though
operation is probably a lot less than the electric type. But I'm not sure
I'm totally comfortable with using a non-vented propane heater.

I'm sure there are people here with experience heating a workshop. Any
suggestions appreciated.

TIA

Dan

Not sure what your cost of electricity is in Seattle.
The heaters referred look a little elaborate (and expensive?) IMO for
a home workshop.
A Canadian company, Princess Auto, sell for example a 230 volt fan
heater for around $85 to $100. It has thermostat knob and consumes
4,800 watts. It is basically an about one foot metal cube with a
handle on top. I've seen them elsewhere described as a 'workshop
heater'. They are often painted red or orange.
You will need 230 volt wiring to a circuit breaker or fuse panel.
Probably 10 AWG wiring (30 amps at 230 volts = 6900 watts.) from a 30
amp double pole circuit breaker. Plug them in for portability etc.
Least ways that's how we do ours.
Actually we have three such heaters; two old monsters (cotton covered
cords and big plugs!) at 3500 watts each and one of the workshop type
above which was given to us with a defective fan. Some jiggery pokery
inside the grounded metal case involving a powerful 115 volt fan and a
voltage dropping circuit has repaired that one.
Probably cost you somewhere from 50 cents to a dollar per hour for
electricity to run one of the 4800 watt heaters? So, probably OK for
occasional use?.

Hey. Propane, flames, garage, car, gasoline, home insurance, family
safety ................ surely not. Be careful.

Walls are currently uninsulated, but adding blown in insulation
should be pretty easy.

Why don't you do that first, then you can decide if you still need a
heater.

Mark

You could burn unwanted wood. There are small iron stoves that don't
take up much room and put out quite a bit of heat. I have seen one
auto-mechanic garage burner made from an oil drum that vented to the
outside and it worked well. The downside is that you don't have
instant ON/OFF like with electric. With the proper setup it can be
safe.

For my attatched garage, I ran a couple of ducts from the main
ductwork of my house
furnace to different parts of the garage walls just above the
foundation walls. No air
returns, you don't want the fumes coming into the house. No cost for
another heater.
No extra cost from my furnace because the thermastat is in the house.
It doesn't get hot, but sweat shirt comfortable.
Lou

"Phisherman" wrote in message
news
You could burn unwanted wood. There are small iron stoves that don't
take up much room and put out quite a bit of heat. I have seen one
auto-mechanic garage burner made from an oil drum that vented to the
outside and it worked well. The downside is that you don't have
instant ON/OFF like with electric. With the proper setup it can be
safe.

But since he has a car in there, it would be a violation of fire codes to
have a solid fueled heater in an attached garage. It is a danger in an
unattached garage, but I'm not sure of the code. Those embers stay hot
enough to ignite gas for many hours after you stop feeding it and it sucks
combustion air from the garage.

"Phisherman" wrote

You could burn unwanted wood. There are small iron stoves that don't
take up much room and put out quite a bit of heat. I have seen one
auto-mechanic garage burner made from an oil drum that vented to the
outside and it worked well. The downside is that you don't have
instant ON/OFF like with electric. With the proper setup it can be
safe.

I like that idea. If I were in that situation, I'd be looking for a small
'Ben Franklin stove' (pot bellied stove) for my garage size. I use my
fireplace in winter to augment the heating so have plenty of wood for the
occasional need.

On Nov 25, 7:09 am, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


But since he has a car in there, it would be a violation of fire codes to
have a solid fueled heater in an attached garage. It is a danger in an
unattached garage, but I'm not sure of the code. Those embers stay hot
enough to ignite gas for many hours after you stop feeding it and it sucks
combustion air from the garage.

My house was built to code (back in the 70's) and has an attached
garage with a NG water heater, with pilot, in one corner. The only
warning was not to store gas containers in the garage, but cars were
ok.

"Red" wrote in message
...
On Nov 25, 7:09 am, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


But since he has a car in there, it would be a violation of fire codes to
have a solid fueled heater in an attached garage. It is a danger in an
unattached garage, but I'm not sure of the code. Those embers stay hot
enough to ignite gas for many hours after you stop feeding it and it
sucks
combustion air from the garage.

My house was built to code (back in the 70's) and has an attached
garage with a NG water heater, with pilot, in one corner. The only
warning was not to store gas containers in the garage, but cars were
ok.

NG is considered OK. Solid fuel is not. Most likely, the heater is about
18' off the ground also.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

It is using about 5,000 Watts per hour.

Bzzzt. Wrong units. Try again? :-)

Nick

"Cshenk" wrote in message
...

"Phisherman" wrote

You could burn unwanted wood. There are small iron stoves that don't
take up much room and put out quite a bit of heat. I have seen one
auto-mechanic garage burner made from an oil drum that vented to the
outside and it worked well. The downside is that you don't have
instant ON/OFF like with electric. With the proper setup it can be
safe.

I like that idea. If I were in that situation, I'd be looking for a small
'Ben Franklin stove' (pot bellied stove) for my garage size. I use my
fireplace in winter to augment the heating so have plenty of wood for the
occasional need.

Any wood stove would have to be "EPA certified" to be legal.

Bob

"Dan" wrote in message
. ..
I live in the Seattle area. I have a 2.5 car garage which I am developing into
a woodworking shop. There will be 1 car parked there also. Although it
generally doesn't get quite as cold here as it does in some other parts of the
country, it gets cold ENOUGH at times during winter to keep me out of the shop.
I'd like to add some source of heat. The shop has 2 wooden single car garage
doors, reasonably well sealed, unheated living space about, 2 78" x 48" double
pane windows, an 8' ceiling, and drywall on all walls. Walls are currently
uninsulated, but adding blown in insulation should be pretty easy. To start, I
am considering either an electric heater, such as this:
http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx. Although the specs on this one
say up to 500 sq', the climate here's not that cold, plus all I really want it
to do is get the space up to 55-60. The downside is the cost of electricity to
run the unit.

Another option seems to be a non-vented propane heater (we do not have natural
gas) like this one: http://www.heatershop.com/garage_heater_gp30t.html Pretty
cheap, but I'd have to buy a 100# propane tank to go with it which adds cost,
though operation is probably a lot less than the electric type. But I'm not
sure I'm totally comfortable with using a non-vented propane heater.

I'm sure there are people here with experience heating a workshop. Any
suggestions appreciated.

Cheap baseboard heaters, or even a few portable heaters would work also with
sufficient wiring. 3 1500 watt portable heaters would be close to that unit, if
it's only for occasional use. Insulating will definately help.

Bob

"Dan" wrote in message
. ..
I live in the Seattle area. I have a 2.5 car garage which I am developing
into a woodworking shop. There will be 1 car parked there also. Although
it generally doesn't get quite as cold here as it does in some other parts
of the country, it gets cold ENOUGH at times during winter to keep me out
of the shop. I'd like to add some source of heat. The shop has 2 wooden
single car garage doors, reasonably well sealed, unheated living space
about, 2 78" x 48" double pane windows, an 8' ceiling, and drywall on all
walls. Walls are currently uninsulated, but adding blown in insulation
should be pretty easy. To start, I am considering either an electric
heater, such as this: http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx.
Although the specs on this one say up to 500 sq', the climate here's not
that cold, plus all I really want it to do is get the space up to 55-60.
The downside is the cost of electricity to run the unit.

Another option seems to be a non-vented propane heater (we do not have
natural gas) like this one:
http://www.heatershop.com/garage_heater_gp30t.html Pretty cheap, but I'd
have to buy a 100# propane tank to go with it which adds cost, though
operation is probably a lot less than the electric type. But I'm not sure
I'm totally comfortable with using a non-vented propane heater.

I'm sure there are people here with experience heating a workshop. Any
suggestions appreciated.

TIA

Dan


My shop/garage is 800 SQFT, insulated to R-19 in the walls (2x6) and R-38 in
the ceiling. I also have insulated garage doors. I heat with a simple
30,000 BTU flame thrower bazooka type heater.
http://www.reddyheat.com/productType...1-4-&sub=10094
It's noisy, but it heats the heck out of my shop. I use it with a 100 pound
propane tank. I run it 'till it's 60 or 65, then turn it off. Of course
I'd like a more permanent heating solution, but I'm not out there enough to
justify the cost. HTH.

I live in the Seattle area. I have a 2.5 car garage which I am
developing into a woodworking shop. There will be 1 car parked there
also. Although it generally doesn't get quite as cold here as it does
in some other parts of the country, it gets cold ENOUGH at times
during winter to keep me out of the shop. I'd like to add some source
of heat. The shop has 2 wooden single car garage doors, reasonably
well sealed, unheated living space about, 2 78" x 48" double pane
windows, an 8' ceiling, and drywall on all walls. Walls are currently
uninsulated, but adding blown in insulation should be pretty easy. To
start, I am considering either an electric heater, such as this:
http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx. Although the specs on
this one say up to 500 sq', the climate here's not that cold, plus all
I really want it to do is get the space up to 55-60. The downside is
the cost of electricity to run the unit.
Another option seems to be a non-vented propane heater

I live down near Portland and have a 24'x28' garage (672 sq/ft). I have
9.5' ceilings, R19 in the walls and ceiling, and two insulated 8' garage
doors (no windows).

I use an electric "Hot One" heater that I picked up from Home Depot
several years ago:

http://www.cadetco.com/show_product.php?prodid=1012

The usual recommendation is 10 watts per sq/ft, but my 4000 watt Hot One
does a nice job of heating up my garage, even though it's undersized for
the space I have. It'll rarely gets below 40 in the garage without the
heater, and I can usually warm it up to 65 or so within an hour. Any
warmer than that and it starts getting a little uncomfortable to work,
even without a coat.

If one heater isn't sufficient to heat your space, you could always add a
second heater (for 8000 watts total). I think Cadet also makes a 5000
watt model now too which may work better for you.

You can mount the Hot One to a wall if you wish, but I just set mine on
the floor like a small space heater, then store it out of the way when
I'm not using it (summer time).

On a different note, unless you install a nice dust collection system,
you'll probably end up with sawdust all over your garage. Something to
consider if you plan to park the car in there while woodworking. A wall
between the woodworking area and the car parking area would reduce your
heating requirements and minimize the dust that gets on the car.
Something to consider.

Take care,

Anthony

J.A. Michel wrote:
"Dan" wrote in message
. ..
I live in the Seattle area. I have a 2.5 car garage which I am
developing into a woodworking shop. There will be 1 car parked
there also. Although it generally doesn't get quite as cold here as
it does in some other parts of the country, it gets cold ENOUGH at
times during winter to keep me out of the shop. I'd like to add
some source of heat. The shop has 2 wooden single car garage doors,
reasonably well sealed, unheated living space about, 2 78" x 48"
double pane windows, an 8' ceiling, and drywall on all walls. Walls
are currently uninsulated, but adding blown in insulation should be
pretty easy. To start, I am considering either an electric heater,
such as this: http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx. Although
the specs on this one say up to 500 sq', the climate here's not that
cold, plus all I really want it to do is get the space up to 55-60.
The downside is the cost of electricity to run the unit. Another option
seems to be a non-vented propane heater (we do not
have natural gas) like this one:
http://www.heatershop.com/garage_heater_gp30t.html Pretty cheap,
but I'd have to buy a 100# propane tank to go with it which adds
cost, though operation is probably a lot less than the electric
type. But I'm not sure I'm totally comfortable with using a
non-vented propane heater. I'm sure there are people here with experience
heating a workshop. Any suggestions appreciated.

TIA

Dan


My shop/garage is 800 SQFT, insulated to R-19 in the walls (2x6) and
R-38 in the ceiling. I also have insulated garage doors. I heat
with a simple 30,000 BTU flame thrower bazooka type heater.
http://www.reddyheat.com/productType...1-4-&sub=10094
It's noisy, but it heats the heck out of my shop. I use it with a
100 pound propane tank. I run it 'till it's 60 or 65, then turn it
off. Of course I'd like a more permanent heating solution, but I'm
not out there enough to justify the cost. HTH.

Be careful with these types of heaters. They are not meant to perform in an
enclosed area. If the oxygen is depleated enough through the combustion
process, the products of combustion could result in 'incomplete' combustion
producting carbon monoxide.

As for a garage area, any fossile fuel burning appliance needs to be 18"
[inches] off the floor. The fire and mechanical codes are clear about this.
The reasoning is that possability the gasoline fumes could become ignited
exists. Another issue is return [conditioned] air vs. combustion air. As
long as the garage area can support combustion air [see you local code]
you'll be ok. Otherwise you might need to provide a fresh air intake of
sorts to allow for combustion air. If all else, read the manufacturer's
instructions about providing combustion air.

Good luck
--
Zyp

"Bob F" wrote
"Cshenk" wrote

I like that idea. If I were in that situation, I'd be looking for a
small 'Ben Franklin stove' (pot bellied stove) for my garage size. I use
my fireplace in winter to augment the heating so have plenty of wood for
the occasional need.

Any wood stove would have to be "EPA certified" to be legal.

Bob, wood stoves are fine. It;s what yoyu burn IN THEM that can be a
problem. They are basically metal fireplaces and one just has to be sure all
is vented right and safely.
xxcarol

Shop heating has been covered in depth over at rec.woodworking.

"Cshenk" wrote in message
...

"Bob F" wrote
"Cshenk" wrote

I like that idea. If I were in that situation, I'd be looking for a small
'Ben Franklin stove' (pot bellied stove) for my garage size. I use my
fireplace in winter to augment the heating so have plenty of wood for the
occasional need.

Any wood stove would have to be "EPA certified" to be legal.

Bob, wood stoves are fine. It;s what yoyu burn IN THEM that can be a problem.
They are basically metal fireplaces and one just has to be sure all is vented
right and safely.

And if they are not "EPA certified" it is illegal to install them, or even
re-install them after cleaning, in Washington state. Which means un-certified
stoves could get you ticketed or invalidate your insurance. That means you
cannot buy any old "franklin stove" and expect it to be legal.

Bob

On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 15:12:51 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote Re Heating a 650 sq' wood shop:

And if they are not "EPA certified" it is illegal to install them, or even
re-install them after cleaning, in Washington state. Which means un-certified
stoves could get you ticketed or invalidate your insurance. That means you
cannot buy any old "franklin stove" and expect it to be legal.

Thank God for the EPA and Washington state.

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...

I live down near Portland and have a 24'x28' garage (672 sq/ft). I have
9.5' ceilings, R19 in the walls and ceiling, and two insulated 8' garage
doors (no windows)...

Anthony-Thanks for the reply & info. Agreed about the dust on the car. I
just got a Penn State 2 hp 240 v dust collector, supposedly good to 1
micron, still setting up out there but the collector seems to work really
well, at least on the table saw. 5000 watts seems like it would probably
produce suffient heat, I don't need it really warm, 60-ish would be fine.
Does the Cadet you have put out a decent volume of air? Looks promising.

Thanks for all the helpful replies.

Dan

Dan,

Agreed about the dust on the car. I just got a
Penn State 2 hp 240 v dust collector

After years of battling dust everywhere, I finally broke down and bought
a JDS "Dust Force" dust collector with a 1 micron bag. It's supposed to
be delivered today, so I have no first hand experience, but am hoping it
cuts down on the dust.

As for walling off the car, it doesn't have to be permanent. You could
probably build a sliding wall out of 2x2's, thin plywood, and styrofoam
panels for insulation and hang them on barn door tracks on the ceiling.
Just a thought.

Even a tarp "curtain" would probably help keep the dust off the car,
though I doubt it would help with heating any.

the collector seems to work really well, at least on the table saw.

My primary concern is my surface planer. That thing builds mountains of
dust and wood shavings in a matter of minutes.

5000 watts seems like it would probably produce suffient heat

The usual recommendation is 10 watts per sq/ft, which would translate to
6500 watts for your 650 sf shop. However, I'm using a 4000 watt heater
for 672 sf and it keeps it comfortable.

It really depends on how well your shop is sealed and insulated. The
first few years my shop had an open stairway going up to the attic. Even
though the attic was insulated with R19 too, that 4'x10' hole in the
ceiling let most of the warm air rise up into the 448 sf attic. That
greatly increased my heating space, and my little 4000 watt heater never
got the garage much above 45 degrees. It took the icy chill away, but it
never got comfortable.

Last year I closed off the stairwell and installed a door to the attic
(mostly to keep dust from getting on everything in the attic too). I
didn't install any additional insulation, but just closing off the attic
really made a big difference. My garage now heats up to 60 degrees or so
in about an hour. I usually turn the thermostat down when it gets above
65.

Does the Cadet you have put out a decent volume of air?

If you're thinking of pointing it at you and feeling the warm air blow on
you, no. For the most part, you can't even feel the heat coming from the
heater, but the room does warm up. It blows enough air that I try to aim
it away from where I'm working so it doesn't blow sawdust all over the
place.

Before I closed off my attic, I remember thinking the heater was broken.
I would let it run for hours and the blowing air still felt cold when I
stood in front of it. But when the air in the room starts warming up, the
air from the heater starts feeling warmer and warmer. Strange, but it
works.

You "can" turn on just the fan, if you want a little air flow in the
summer time.

Take care,

Anthony

I heat with a simple 30,000 BTU flame thrower bazooka type heater.

Be careful with these types of heaters. They are not meant to perform
in an enclosed area. If the oxygen is depleated enough through the
combustion process, the products of combustion could result in
'incomplete' combustion producting carbon monoxide.

I have no first hand experience, but I thought I heard once that propane
powered heaters also introduced moisture into the air? Probably not a
desirable feature in a woodshop.

Anthony

"Caesar Romano" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 15:12:51 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote Re Heating a 650 sq' wood shop:

And if they are not "EPA certified" it is illegal to install them, or even
re-install them after cleaning, in Washington state. Which means un-certified
stoves could get you ticketed or invalidate your insurance. That means you
cannot buy any old "franklin stove" and expect it to be legal.

Thank God for the EPA and Washington state.

I'm not complaining. I wouldn't want to live downwind from a continuous user of
an un-certified stove. The new ones are hugely cleaner as far as smoke output,
and you get more heat out of the wood you burn. And I'm pretty sure it's not
just Washington State.

Bob

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...

It really depends on how well your shop is sealed and insulated. The
first few years my shop had an open stairway going up to the attic. Even
though the attic was insulated with R19 too, that 4'x10' hole in the
ceiling let most of the warm air rise up into the 448 sf attic. That
greatly increased my heating space, and my little 4000 watt heater never
got the garage much above 45 degrees. It took the icy chill away, but it
never got comfortable.

When the outside temp rarely gets much below 45F, that's not likely to be a
problem.

Bob

It really depends on how well your shop is sealed and insulated. The
first few years my shop had an open stairway going up to the attic.
Even though the attic was insulated with R19 too, that 4'x10' hole in
the ceiling let most of the warm air rise up into the 448 sf attic.
That greatly increased my heating space, and my little 4000 watt
heater never got the garage much above 45 degrees. It took the icy
chill away, but it never got comfortable.

When the outside temp rarely gets much below 45F, that's not likely to
be a problem.

You must have a thicker skin than I do, because anything below 55F or so is
a little too cold for me. Especially for things like car work where
you're handling metal tools and parts. It's like working with ice.

Also, many woodworking finishes will take forever to dry if it's too cold
in the shop.

I personally find a temperature around 65 just about ideal for woodworking.
I can take off the coat so I can move around easier and the extra bulk
isn't bumping into my finishes or something. If it gets much higher than
65, I find it gets a little too warm when I'm moving around a lot.

In any case, if the heater is TOO small for the space, the heat loss is
greater than the heat gain and it'll never get warm in there.

Anthony

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...

When the outside temp rarely gets much below 45F, that's not likely to
be a problem.

You must have a thicker skin than I do, because anything below 55F or so is
a little too cold for me. Especially for things like car work where
you're handling metal tools and parts. It's like working with ice.

Also, many woodworking finishes will take forever to dry if it's too cold
in the shop.

I personally find a temperature around 65 just about ideal for woodworking.
I can take off the coat so I can move around easier and the extra bulk
isn't bumping into my finishes or something. If it gets much higher than
65, I find it gets a little too warm when I'm moving around a lot.

In any case, if the heater is TOO small for the space, the heat loss is
greater than the heat gain and it'll never get warm in there.

Again - if you are heating from 45F, it's a lot easier to get comfortable than
when the outside is 10F.

Bob F

if you are heating from 45F, it's a lot easier to get
comfortable than when the outside is 10F.

Oops.. Sorry, I guess I was having a brain fart. The obvious escaped me.

You are correct, of course.

Take care,

Anthony