Follow-up on the motel-style AC/heater (in the building that was sold
but now we're renting).

The main problem has changed and now it is that the aquirrel-cage fan
motor doesn't start spinning. It won't start at all on slow, and on
high only if I spin it a screw-driver first. It's not very practical
to keep going over and spinning it with a screwdriver, especially when
no one is there.

The open end of the squirrel cage faces into the building, and is
behind a sheet of steel that shows no easy method of removal. I
thought I could take off the cover on the outside of the building, but
I see no screws, etc.

1) Do I have to remove the entire unit from the wall? It's about 3
feet wide by almost 2 feet high, by about a foot deep, and probably
heavy. (I didn't see screws even on the inside to remove the whole
thing. I should have written the brand and model, but didn't, and the
building was locked today.)

2) The fan cage spins pretty easily in both directions when the power
is off, and sometimes the fan starts up when I spin it with a tool,
but other times it seems to be held in place magnetically and it
doesn't even want to spin when I try to spin it. Am I delusional?




Backrgound: It was making scraping noises from the fan, after running
10 hours or more. We turned it off and it was cool out anyhow. When I
restarted it so I could fix it, the scraping had stopped except once
for a couple seconds, but if it recurs, I'll worry about that then.

If the motor spins free change the Capacitor and the
motor should start.
"mm" wrote in message
...
Follow-up on the motel-style AC/heater (in the building that was sold
but now we're renting).

The main problem has changed and now it is that the aquirrel-cage fan
motor doesn't start spinning. It won't start at all on slow, and on
high only if I spin it a screw-driver first. It's not very practical
to keep going over and spinning it with a screwdriver, especially when
no one is there.

The open end of the squirrel cage faces into the building, and is
behind a sheet of steel that shows no easy method of removal. I
thought I could take off the cover on the outside of the building, but
I see no screws, etc.

1) Do I have to remove the entire unit from the wall? It's about 3
feet wide by almost 2 feet high, by about a foot deep, and probably
heavy. (I didn't see screws even on the inside to remove the whole
thing. I should have written the brand and model, but didn't, and the
building was locked today.)

2) The fan cage spins pretty easily in both directions when the power
is off, and sometimes the fan starts up when I spin it with a tool,
but other times it seems to be held in place magnetically and it
doesn't even want to spin when I try to spin it. Am I delusional?




Backrgound: It was making scraping noises from the fan, after running
10 hours or more. We turned it off and it was cool out anyhow. When I
restarted it so I could fix it, the scraping had stopped except once
for a couple seconds, but if it recurs, I'll worry about that then.

mm,

I'm not sure what this follows up but repairs to the heat and AC should
be done by the landlord or his agents not by a renter.

Dave M.

On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 19:27:35 -0400, "David Martel"
wrote:

mm,

I'm not sure what this follows up but repairs to the heat and AC should
be done by the landlord or his agents not by a renter.

Thanks, but he's going to tear down the building and build houses.

So he won't fix it and we wouldn't ask him. We're only there because
he's being nice to us (and the rent we pay, and I really wish I knew
how much that is. It might be only 1000 a month, or 3000, or
something else altogether. We were told how much was the sale price
was and how much the check was, and I'm guessing the difference was 3
months rent, but frankly I've forgotten how much the check was for.
It's gotten to where I can forget an number within 5 seconds. )


We were going to be out by the end of October, but we've asked for two
more months, and he'll probably give it, unless he's ready to start
building. (The real estate slump may delay that, but I don't know how
much slump there is here.)

If I can't fix this, I'll suggest a pro but it is probably not worth
the money for as long as we are going to be there. I don't know all
the details of that. And it depends on how cold it gets, and on how
much the other heater in the room can do, and on if we can have any
effect with portable electric heater(s). And how soon we find another
location.


Dave M.

On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 10:06:48 +1200, "Telstra"
wrote:

If the motor spins free change the Capacitor and the
motor should start.

I should have thought of that. I actually looked at the cap and
didn't think a single thought. Although maybe I looked at the AC
compressor cap and not the fan cap. I'll have to go look again.

"mm" wrote in message
.. .
Follow-up on the motel-style AC/heater (in the building that was sold
but now we're renting).

The main problem has changed and now it is that the aquirrel-cage fan
motor doesn't start spinning. It won't start at all on slow, and on
high only if I spin it a screw-driver first. It's not very practical
to keep going over and spinning it with a screwdriver, especially when
no one is there.

"mm" wrote in message
...
Follow-up on the motel-style AC/heater (in the building that was sold
but now we're renting).

The main problem has changed and now it is that the aquirrel-cage fan
motor doesn't start spinning. It won't start at all on slow, and on
high only if I spin it a screw-driver first. It's not very practical
to keep going over and spinning it with a screwdriver, especially when
no one is there.

The open end of the squirrel cage faces into the building, and is
behind a sheet of steel that shows no easy method of removal. I
thought I could take off the cover on the outside of the building, but
I see no screws, etc.

1) Do I have to remove the entire unit from the wall? It's about 3
feet wide by almost 2 feet high, by about a foot deep, and probably
heavy. (I didn't see screws even on the inside to remove the whole
thing. I should have written the brand and model, but didn't, and the
building was locked today.)

2) The fan cage spins pretty easily in both directions when the power
is off, and sometimes the fan starts up when I spin it with a tool,
but other times it seems to be held in place magnetically and it
doesn't even want to spin when I try to spin it. Am I delusional?




Backrgound: It was making scraping noises from the fan, after running
10 hours or more. We turned it off and it was cool out anyhow. When I
restarted it so I could fix it, the scraping had stopped except once
for a couple seconds, but if it recurs, I'll worry about that then.


These units generally slide out of the case from inside the room. If you do
not see any screws in the grille/panel on the inside, it may be retained by
spring clips that just pop out. Look and check carefully where it is held so
you do not damage something.

All of the motor symptoms could be caused by worn bearings in the motor. It
is not a trivial job to remove the fan(s) and motor when rusted. The motor
bearings would likely have to be replaced at a motor repair shop.

I hope not, but you may be faced with an expensive repair and it might be
worthwhile to have a pro check it out or try to locate another unit for
replacement.

Don Young

On Sep 25, 9:54?pm, "Don Young" wrote:
"mm" wrote in message

...



Follow-up on the motel-style AC/heater (in the building that was sold
but now we're renting).

The main problem has changed and now it is that the aquirrel-cage fan
motor doesn't start spinning. It won't start at all on slow, and on
high only if I spin it a screw-driver first. It's not very practical
to keep going over and spinning it with a screwdriver, especially when
no one is there.

The open end of the squirrel cage faces into the building, and is
behind a sheet of steel that shows no easy method of removal. I
thought I could take off the cover on the outside of the building, but
I see no screws, etc.

1) Do I have to remove the entire unit from the wall? It's about 3
feet wide by almost 2 feet high, by about a foot deep, and probably
heavy. (I didn't see screws even on the inside to remove the whole
thing. I should have written the brand and model, but didn't, and the
building was locked today.)

2) The fan cage spins pretty easily in both directions when the power
is off, and sometimes the fan starts up when I spin it with a tool,
but other times it seems to be held in place magnetically and it
doesn't even want to spin when I try to spin it. Am I delusional?

Backrgound: It was making scraping noises from the fan, after running
10 hours or more. We turned it off and it was cool out anyhow. When I
restarted it so I could fix it, the scraping had stopped except once
for a couple seconds, but if it recurs, I'll worry about that then.

These units generally slide out of the case from inside the room. If you do
not see any screws in the grille/panel on the inside, it may be retained by
spring clips that just pop out. Look and check carefully where it is held so
you do not damage something.

All of the motor symptoms could be caused by worn bearings in the motor. It
is not a trivial job to remove the fan(s) and motor when rusted. The motor
bearings would likely have to be replaced at a motor repair shop.

I hope not, but you may be faced with an expensive repair and it might be
worthwhile to have a pro check it out or try to locate another unit for
replacement.

Don Young- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

is the owner going to keep heat on all over building so water lines
etc dont freeze?

you may have more troubles than just one noisey blower

On Sep 25, 3:53 pm, mm wrote:
Follow-up on the motel-style AC/heater (in the building that was sold
but now we're renting).

The main problem has changed and now it is that the aquirrel-cage fan
motor doesn't start spinning. It won't start at all on slow, and on
high only if I spin it a screw-driver first. It's not very practical
to keep going over and spinning it with a screwdriver, especially when
no one is there.

The open end of the squirrel cage faces into the building, and is
behind a sheet of steel that shows no easy method of removal. I
thought I could take off the cover on the outside of the building, but
I see no screws, etc.

1) Do I have to remove the entire unit from the wall? It's about 3
feet wide by almost 2 feet high, by about a foot deep, and probably
heavy. (I didn't see screws even on the inside to remove the whole
thing. I should have written the brand and model, but didn't, and the
building was locked today.)

2) The fan cage spins pretty easily in both directions when the power
is off, and sometimes the fan starts up when I spin it with a tool,
but other times it seems to be held in place magnetically and it
doesn't even want to spin when I try to spin it. Am I delusional?

Backrgound: It was making scraping noises from the fan, after running
10 hours or more. We turned it off and it was cool out anyhow. When I
restarted it so I could fix it, the scraping had stopped except once
for a couple seconds, but if it recurs, I'll worry about that then.

The bearings are worn. It will recur.

On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 19:00:59 -0700, "
wrote:

On Sep 25, 9:54?pm, "Don Young" wrote:
"mm" wrote in message

Follow-up on the motel-style AC/heater (in the building that was sold
but now we're renting).

The main problem has changed and now it is that the aquirrel-cage fan
motor doesn't start spinning. It won't start at all on slow, and on
high only if I spin it a screw-driver first. It's not very practical
to keep going over and spinning it with a screwdriver, especially when
no one is there.....

These units generally slide out of the case from inside the room. If you do
not see any screws in the grille/panel on the inside, it may be retained by
spring clips that just pop out. Look and check carefully where it is held so
you do not damage something.

OK. I'll have to get help to lower it to the floor.

All of the motor symptoms could be caused by worn bearings in the motor. It
is not a trivial job to remove the fan(s) and motor when rusted. The motor
bearings would likely have to be replaced at a motor repair shop.

I hope not, but you may be faced with an expensive repair and it might be
worthwhile to have a pro check it out or try to locate another unit for
replacement.

Thanks. You've also given me 2 pretty good excuses if I don't fix it.


Don Young-

is the owner going to keep heat on all over building so water lines
etc dont freeze?

No, but we will. We're paying the utilities. I'm pretty sure he
assumed no landlord responsibilitiies, especially if we are only
paying 1000 a month (I'm not sure how much we're paying). Even if the
law imposes them, we would not take advantage of that. It's not like
it's a residence and someone is going to get sick if it's too cold.
If people are cold, they can leave. If too many are cold, we'll
borrow or rent space somewhere else until we can buy something else.
They've already started working on that because afaik, we don't know
when the new owner will be ready to demolish.

Plus there is another identical unit in this room and we use something
else for the rest of the building. I know one AC unit is not enough
for the room on really hot days, but I don't know yet that one heater
would not be.

Hmmm. It can easily get to 28 degrees in the winter, which is 40
degrees below say a target of 68, (or even 18 which is 50 degrees
lower) but it's never been more than 102 out, which is only 30 degrees
more than a target of 72. But since I don't know, I'll still think
one heater might be enough.

you may have more troubles than just one noisey blower

Thanks. I'll remind them. They're generally smarter than I am, but
I'm the only one left who knows how to fix things.

On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:31:28 -0700, hvacrmedic
wrote:


Backrgound: It was making scraping noises from the fan, after running
10 hours or more. We turned it off and it was cool out anyhow. When I
restarted it so I could fix it, the scraping had stopped except once
for a couple seconds, but if it recurs, I'll worry about that then.

The bearings are worn. It will recur.

Thanks.

My plan for that situation was to note what part of the shroud or
other sheet metal it is rubbing on, and to bend it away. That will
last us for 4 to 6 months of winter, probably, right?

unles youve got a burnt winding in the motor ,

why does everyone always thinks its the cap ?


mm wrote:
On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 10:06:48 +1200, "Telstra"

can gauarantee you that a ptac evap motor is not worth rebuilding
would be curious to know how old this thing is ?

"Don Young" wrote:
"mm" wrote in message

"
My plan for that situation was to note what part of the shroud or
other sheet metal it is rubbing on, and to bend it away. That will
last us for 4 to 6 months of winter, probably, right?"

your asking the people of this newsgroup to whip out the crystal ball
and predict how long this motor will last ???????

seriously , if it were me , id run down to the supply house and pick up a new
motor and install it myself , if the unit were less than fifteen years old
i get the impression its much older and not worth it ,

heres a suggestion ;-)
find the little switch on the front of the unit that makes the fan run
constantly , then turn it on , get it running and forget it
till it finally locks up for good , then pitch the piece of **** and
MOVE !!!!!!!!!!


mm wrote:
On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:31:28 -0700, hvacrmedic

"mm" wrote in message

2) The fan cage spins pretty easily in both directions when the power
is off, and sometimes the fan starts up when I spin it with a tool,
but other times it seems to be held in place magnetically and it
doesn't even want to spin when I try to spin it. Am I delusional?


Could be the bearings sticking too.

On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 06:17:34 -0500, (The
Freon Cowboy) wrote:

can gauarantee you that a ptac evap motor is not worth rebuilding
would be curious to know how old this thing is ?

It is 40 years old and never been repaired. The other one it turns
out was repaired about 10 or 15 years ago, but I think they've done
pretty well.

I saw your post about maybe it being a motor winding. I wonder if
this might account for it sometimes not wanting to spin even when I
prod it with a screwdriver. Sometimes it spins fine and sometimes it
seems magnetized in the place where it is. ??

I guess the winding might have burnt out the day it first started
scraping on the housing. Sometimes it would scrape for 2 to 3
seconds, but sometimes it would stop dead. That's when it would have
overheated, right?

While I was in the room the stop-dead periods never lasted more than
15 seconds, and then we turned it off, but the thing was running all
day and maybe they were longer earlier

I just want to get through this winter. We should have a new place by
summer, if not earlier.

"Don Young" wrote:
"mm" wrote in message

do you know what a death rattle sounds like ?
40 years old , and you're still flogging it for more ?

buy a couple of electric heaters , yur gonna need em ;-)




mm wrote:
On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 06:17:34 -0500, (The

On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 15:36:01 -0500, (The
Freon Cowboy) wrote:

do you know what a death rattle sounds like ?
40 years old , and you're still flogging it for more ?

buy a couple of electric heaters , yur gonna need em ;-)

Well I do have a couple electric heaters with thermostats, and I think
I mentioned we could use those, sooner than spend a lot of money on
this thing.

Of course the heaters I have are all over 40 years old too.

One is 60 years old and looks almost like new.



mm wrote:
On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 06:17:34 -0500, (The

On Sep 27, 12:14?pm, mm wrote:
On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 15:36:01 -0500, (The

Freon Cowboy) wrote:
do you know what a death rattle sounds like ?
40 years old , and you're still flogging it for more ?

buy a couple of electric heaters , yur gonna need em ;-)

Well I do have a couple electric heaters with thermostats, and I think
I mentioned we could use those, sooner than spend a lot of money on
this thing.

Of course the heaters I have are all over 40 years old too.

One is 60 years old and looks almost like new.





mm wrote:
On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 06:17:34 -0500, (The- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

steal parts from other units rooms that are likely vacant and no one
will care since building is scheduled for demo.

parts are parts pieces are pieces, you have a on site hotel room scrap
yard, time to put it to work.

On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 12:34:37 -0700, "
wrote:


steal parts from other units rooms that are likely vacant and no one
will care since building is scheduled for demo.

parts are parts pieces are pieces, you have a on site hotel room scrap
yard, time to put it to work.

Good idea. Thanks.

On Sep 28, 12:56?am, mm wrote:
On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 12:34:37 -0700, "

wrote:

steal parts from other units rooms that are likely vacant and no one
will care since building is scheduled for demo.

parts are parts pieces are pieces, you have a on site hotel room scrap
yard, time to put it to work.

Good idea. Thanks.

start by disassembling a unit destined as parts so you will be better
at it and kinda know how it goes together.

you have a building full of training tools