My washer, which is about 14 years old and is a top-of-the-line Kenmore has
stopped agitating or spinning. It seems to do everything else (fill and
drain). Does anyone have an opinion that the machine is or is not worth
fixing, or is it time to just buy a new machine?

Thanks.
H

Joseph Meehan wrote:
Fix it yourself yes. Have it done, well ....

'Pends on what's wrong. Tranny, maybe not so much.
Belt/clutch/flexible coupling/etc., sure...

Only after you learn something about "why" and "what" will you be able
to ascertain much at all about cost.

--

"H" wrote:

My washer, which is about 14 years old and is a top-of-the-line Kenmore has
stopped agitating or spinning. It seems to do everything else (fill and
drain). Does anyone have an opinion that the machine is or is not worth
fixing, or is it time to just buy a new machine?

Mine's about that old, and did that last year. It was the timer - a
contact had burned up. It cost about $100 for a new timer, and has run
fine since.

On Sep 21, 5:34 pm, "H" wrote:
My washer, which is about 14 years old and is a top-of-the-line Kenmore has
stopped agitating or spinning. It seems to do everything else (fill and
drain). Does anyone have an opinion that the machine is or is not worth
fixing, or is it time to just buy a new machine?

Thanks.
H
A bit about washing machines which few know. When the automatic
machine came on the market Maytag was one of the very last. Due to the
fact they experminted with they other brands and got to know their
faults. They in turn designed a machine that did a good job with a
minimum number of parts. The Maytag transmission for operation is as
simple as it can be, has few parts to wear or break. The big secret is
they use a reversible motor for p[ower. I've known of a Maytag which
ran for 29 years before it needed repair, which was a new drive
belt..So before buying a washer , check out the iside workings first
and see how much can go wrong first..

Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new
Kenmore can be had for $299-399. Why pay $100+ to fix an old machine
when a new one with warranty can be had for a bit more? Penny wise
and pound foolish some are.

On Sep 22, 12:05 pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 22:34:00 +0000, H wrote:
My washer, which is about 14 years old and is a top-of-the-line Kenmore has
stopped agitating or spinning. It seems to do everything else (fill and
drain). Does anyone have an opinion that the machine is or is not worth
fixing, or is it time to just buy a new machine?

Thanks.
H

Fixed my 30 year old Kenmore for under 60 about 4 years ago. The water
pump seized and I also replaced belts.

wrote:
Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new
Kenmore can be had for $299-399. Why pay $100+ to fix an old machine
when a new one with warranty can be had for a bit more? Penny wise
and pound foolish some are.
....

Where is this extra efficiency coming from, pray tell?

The "throw the fixable on out" a priori route seems the more expensive
to me by far until at least know what the problem is...

--

On Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:17:37 -0700, wrote:

On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 22:34:00 +0000, H wrote:
My washer, which is about 14 years old and is a top-of-the-line Kenmore has
stopped agitating or spinning. It seems to do everything else (fill and
drain). Does anyone have an opinion that the machine is or is not worth
fixing, or is it time to just buy a new machine?

Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new
Kenmore can be had for $299-399. Why pay $100+ to fix an old machine
when a new one with warranty can be had for a bit more? Penny wise
and pound foolish some are.

I disagree. My 13-year-old Whirlpool washer stopped working a couple
of years ago. I immediately started shopping for a new one, hoping
that technology and efficiency had improved. All I found were
insanely-priced machines that did far more than I needed. The machines
that were similar to what I already had were higher in price and lower
in quality. I truly dislike what has happened with washing machines
lately.

In the end, I had my old one fixed and it continues to do the good job
that I have grown to expect. My guess is that I will continue to have
this one fixed until the parts are no longer available. I just don't
see any benefit to the consumer from buying new washing machines,
unless you don't have an old one. Even then, I'd buy an old, used
washer and have it fixed before I'd take one of the poor-quality new
washers.

Bernardo

dpb wrote:

wrote:

Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new
Kenmore can be had for $299-399. Why pay $100+ to fix an old machine
when a new one with warranty can be had for a bit more? Penny wise
and pound foolish some are.

...

Where is this extra efficiency coming from, pray tell?

Indeed. I don't think basic electric motors have improved much in
efficiency over the years, and the efficiency of a washing machine
is dictated by the efficiency of its motor because they all work
in pretty much the same way -- add water to clothes, agitate, spin
water out of clothes.



The "throw the fixable on out" a priori route seems the more expensive
to me by far until at least know what the problem is...

--


--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

could be a belt . transmisson or the wigwag , hard to tel from here ,
but certainly cost effective to repair if it isnt the transmisson


wrote:
Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new

Folks,

I moved the washer out so I could work on it, and beneath where the center
of washer was was a pile of rubber filings and a few pieces of solid rubber.
I therefore suspected that it is merely the belt that has been fried.

However, I checked the Sears web site for the model I have ( 110.92595500 )
and I cannot find a drive belt, or any other kind of belt, in the parts
list.

http://www3.sears.com/Paul/document_...um=11092595500

Does anyone have a clue what that pile of rubber might be?

H

"The Freon Cowboy" wrote in message
m...
could be a belt . transmisson or the wigwag , hard to tel from here ,
but certainly cost effective to repair if it isnt the transmisson


wrote:
Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new

H wrote:
Folks,

I moved the washer out so I could work on it, and beneath where the center
of washer was was a pile of rubber filings and a few pieces of solid rubber.
I therefore suspected that it is merely the belt that has been fried.

However, I checked the Sears web site for the model I have ( 110.92595500 )
and I cannot find a drive belt, or any other kind of belt, in the parts
list.
....

Most rather than a conventional belt use a flexible coupling that looks
like a piece of rubber radiator hose with slits lengthwise around it on
the middle section and the two ends solid. It goes on one end of the
drive and the transmission drive and is the shock absorber as well as
the drive for the reversing action of the agitation. More than likely
that's what's worn out and it finally broke. It's relatively easy fix...

--

"dpb" wrote in message ...
H wrote:
Folks,

I moved the washer out so I could work on it, and beneath where the
center of washer was was a pile of rubber filings and a few pieces of
solid rubber. I therefore suspected that it is merely the belt that has
been fried.

However, I checked the Sears web site for the model I have (
110.92595500 ) and I cannot find a drive belt, or any other kind of belt,
in the parts list.
...

Most rather than a conventional belt use a flexible coupling that looks
like a piece of rubber radiator hose with slits lengthwise around it on
the middle section and the two ends solid. It goes on one end of the
drive and the transmission drive and is the shock absorber as well as the
drive for the reversing action of the agitation. More than likely that's
what's worn out and it finally broke. It's relatively easy fix...


Thanks...can you, perchance, identify which number on the part list is the
part to which you refer?

http://www3.sears.com/Paul/partlist_...rchType=TITLE&

H wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message ...
H wrote:
Folks,

I moved the washer out so I could work on it, and beneath where the
center of washer was was a pile of rubber filings and a few pieces of
solid rubber. I therefore suspected that it is merely the belt that has
been fried.

However, I checked the Sears web site for the model I have (
110.92595500 ) and I cannot find a drive belt, or any other kind of belt,
in the parts list.
...

Most rather than a conventional belt use a flexible coupling that looks
like a piece of rubber radiator hose with slits lengthwise around it on
the middle section and the two ends solid. It goes on one end of the
drive and the transmission drive and is the shock absorber as well as the
drive for the reversing action of the agitation. More than likely that's
what's worn out and it finally broke. It's relatively easy fix...


Thanks...can you, perchance, identify which number on the part list is the
part to which you refer?

Well, that's different w/ the horizontal shaft motor. Looks like about
the only choices if that's what you got would be the clutch band or the
motor drive coupling and isolation (13).

Probably have to try to look at your machine more closely and determine
where the pieces actually came from to tell what you need.

--

On Sep 22, 2:51 pm, dpb wrote:
H wrote:
"dpb" wrote in ...
H wrote:
Folks,

I moved the washer out so I could work on it, and beneath where the
center of washer was was a pile of rubber filings and a few pieces of
solid rubber. I therefore suspected that it is merely the belt that has
been fried.

However, I checked the Sears web site for the model I have (
110.92595500 ) and I cannot find a drive belt, or any other kind of belt,
in the parts list.
...

Most rather than a conventional belt use a flexible coupling that looks
like a piece of rubber radiator hose with slits lengthwise around it on
the middle section and the two ends solid. It goes on one end of the
drive and the transmission drive and is the shock absorber as well as the
drive for the reversing action of the agitation. More than likely that's
what's worn out and it finally broke. It's relatively easy fix...

Thanks...can you, perchance, identify which number on the part list is the
part to which you refer?

Well, that's different w/ the horizontal shaft motor. Looks like about
the only choices if that's what you got would be the clutch band or the
motor drive coupling and isolation (13).

Probably have to try to look at your machine more closely and determine
where the pieces actually came from to tell what you need.

--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you think you can fix it yourself, then I'd investigate enough to
find out what is shot and how much a new one will cost. If you have
to call for service, IMO, at that age, it's not worth it.

You do NOT need Sears parts. You machine is a Whirlpool badged by
Sears.

Here is some good advice:
http://fixitnow.com/wp/category/washer-repair/

Look in your yellow pages to see if you have a Johnstone Supply in
your area. They carry extensive appliance repair parts. You may
have other appliance repair part stores.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"H" wrote in message
news:FRcJi.3714$f%1.1518@trnddc01...
Folks,

I moved the washer out so I could work on it, and beneath where
the center of washer was was a pile of rubber filings and a few
pieces of solid rubber. I therefore suspected that it is merely
the belt that has been fried.

However, I checked the Sears web site for the model I have (
110.92595500 ) and I cannot find a drive belt, or any other kind
of belt, in the parts list.

http://www3.sears.com/Paul/document_...um=11092595500

Does anyone have a clue what that pile of rubber might be?

H

"The Freon Cowboy" wrote in message
m...
could be a belt . transmisson or the wigwag , hard to tel from
here ,
but certainly cost effective to repair if it isnt the
transmisson


wrote:
Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency.
A new

On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 22:34:00 GMT, "H" wrote:

My washer, which is about 14 years old and is a top-of-the-line Kenmore has
stopped agitating or spinning. It seems to do everything else (fill and
drain). Does anyone have an opinion that the machine is or is not worth
fixing, or is it time to just buy a new machine?

Thanks.
H

I found the pictures on this site to be particularly helpful when
replacing a drive coupling. Made the job go much quicker.

http://www.sannerud.com/house/kenwash.html

Front loaders use less water and spin more out meaning dryer can run
less time to dry clothes. Right there are two ways they save money.

On Sep 22, 12:21 pm, dpb wrote:
wrote:
Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new
Kenmore can be had for $299-399. Why pay $100+ to fix an old machine
when a new one with warranty can be had for a bit more? Penny wise
and pound foolish some are.

...

Where is this extra efficiency coming from, pray tell?

The "throw the fixable on out" a priori route seems the more expensive
to me by far until at least know what the problem is...

--

Poster pays $100 now to fix machine. Maybe he will get another 13
years then that $100 was a good deal. If one or two years down the
line he has to pay for something else then it was a waste. So that
$200 extra he pays to get a new machine might get him another 13
years.



On Sep 22, 3:45 pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:17:37 -0700, bigjim wrote:
Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new
Kenmore can be had for $299-399. Why pay $100+ to fix an old machine
when a new one with warranty can be had for a bit more? Penny wise
and pound foolish some are.

399 is a "bit" more than 100?

CJT wrote:

dpb wrote:

wrote:

Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new
Kenmore can be had for $299-399. Why pay $100+ to fix an old machine
when a new one with warranty can be had for a bit more? Penny wise
and pound foolish some are.

...

Where is this extra efficiency coming from, pray tell?

Indeed. I don't think basic electric motors have improved much in
efficiency over the years, and the efficiency of a washing machine
is dictated by the efficiency of its motor because they all work
in pretty much the same way -- add water to clothes, agitate, spin
water out of clothes.



The "throw the fixable on out" a priori route seems the more expensive
to me by far until at least know what the problem is...

--


My front loader has a variable speed drive in it which uses much less
electricity, uses a fraction of the water, washes better, less wear and
tear on clothes, spins more water out. Thus it uses less electricity and
less water and also (btw) it uses a lot less soap. The dryer too is a much
better design which runs more efficiently (less gas and electricity)
My utility company subsidized part of the washer/dryer initial cost
because they recognize the savings
Eric

In article ,
Eric wrote:

My front loader has a variable speed drive in it which uses much less
electricity, uses a fraction of the water, washes better, less wear and
tear on clothes, spins more water out.

Is that what the sales brochure says, or did you measure all that
yourself?

Eric wrote:
CJT wrote:

dpb wrote:

wrote:

Get a new one. You will save money through better efficiency. A new
Kenmore can be had for $299-399. Why pay $100+ to fix an old machine
when a new one with warranty can be had for a bit more? Penny wise
and pound foolish some are.
...

Where is this extra efficiency coming from, pray tell?
Indeed. I don't think basic electric motors have improved much in
efficiency over the years, and the efficiency of a washing machine
is dictated by the efficiency of its motor because they all work
in pretty much the same way -- add water to clothes, agitate, spin
water out of clothes.



The "throw the fixable on out" a priori route seems the more expensive
to me by far until at least know what the problem is...

--

My front loader has a variable speed drive in it which uses much less
electricity, uses a fraction of the water, washes better, less wear and
tear on clothes, spins more water out. Thus it uses less electricity and
less water and also (btw) it uses a lot less soap. The dryer too is a much
better design which runs more efficiently (less gas and electricity)
My utility company subsidized part of the washer/dryer initial cost
because they recognize the savings

Most front loaders also are less capacity so what efficiency gains there
are per load are lost on number of loads. There seems to be a
considerable debate on users of the "washes better" subject from what
I've read...some maybe, some "not so much".

I find it hard to believe the energy savings overall on washers is big
enough to be more than just barely noticeable if at all...certainly not
enough to justify the expense of a new machine over a relatively
inexpensive repair...

$0.02, etc., ...

--

I disagree. My 13-year-old Whirlpool washer stopped working a couple
of years ago. I immediately started shopping for a new one, hoping
that technology and efficiency had improved. All I found were
insanely-priced machines that did far more than I needed. The machines
that were similar to what I already had were higher in price and lower
in quality. I truly dislike what has happened with washing machines
lately.

Agree

I just junked out a 7 yr old Kenmore front loader that
I bought new for $600

The bearing seized up and was NOT replaceable unless
you replace the ENTIRE tub assy

Just plain junk that was not made to last or be
repaired

Never again

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:25:08 +0000, H wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message ...
H wrote:
Folks,

I moved the washer out so I could work on it, and beneath where the
center of washer was was a pile of rubber filings and a few pieces of
solid rubber. I therefore suspected that it is merely the belt that has
been fried.

However, I checked the Sears web site for the model I have (
110.92595500 ) and I cannot find a drive belt, or any other kind of
belt,
in the parts list.
...

Most rather than a conventional belt use a flexible coupling that looks
like a piece of rubber radiator hose with slits lengthwise around it on
the middle section and the two ends solid. It goes on one end of the
drive and the transmission drive and is the shock absorber as well as
the
drive for the reversing action of the agitation. More than likely
that's
what's worn out and it finally broke. It's relatively easy fix...


Thanks...can you, perchance, identify which number on the part list is
the
part to which you refer?

COUPLING, MOTOR AND ISOLATION 3364003

Just a guess though without being able to eyeball the original.

Goods guess...exactly right.

I got the parts and put them in....Washer works well again. Total was $14.

Thanks to all!

H