Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:38:30 +0000, Puddin' Man wrote:

Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller



If you can figure out how to open up case, you may be able to replace
switch provided you can find one which is compatible with space and
opening on chassis. You could always cobble together something which
would work.

Chances are it is only a matter of squirting some cleaning fluid into the
switch and working it a few times to free up years of accumulated gunk.

I would first purchase some electronics cleaner at an auto parts store or
Radio Shack. Open up chassis to access switch. Squirt the cleaner into
switch wherever I could. Work switch a few times with power off, of
course.

Plug in unit and see if it makes a difference.

This also works for scratchy volume controls.

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...

Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is
unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'

The low tech answer would be to put a switch in the power cord. Lower would
be to unplug to turn off, plug to turn on. Lazy would be to give it to a
shop for repair. Modern would be to upgrade to a new system.

Although all of these would be better than the firehose, Franz's ideas are
the way to go.

FMB
(North Mexico)

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:38:30 GMT, Puddin' Man
wrote:


Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'


How about leaving that switch on (or bypassing it) and switching the
power?

(missing sig separator of "-- "?)

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

--
110 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Unlike biological evolution. 'intelligent design' is
not a genuine scientific theory and, therefore, has
no place in the curriculum of our nation's public
school classes." -- Ted Kennedy

The advice below is good with one caveat...

Most electronics cleaning fluids, and other things that people use for that purpose like WD-40, have flammamble solvents in
them. And unlike things like the volume control, that switch probably carries enough power to make a spark that could ignite
said fluid.

So after you do the cleaning, make really sure the thing's completely dry before plugging it in! Oh and of course *before*
you do the cleaning, *un*plug it.

Eric Law


"franz frippl" wrote in message t...
If you can figure out how to open up case, you may be able to replace
switch provided you can find one which is compatible with space and
opening on chassis. You could always cobble together something which
would work.

Chances are it is only a matter of squirting some cleaning fluid into the
switch and working it a few times to free up years of accumulated gunk.

I would first purchase some electronics cleaner at an auto parts store or
Radio Shack. Open up chassis to access switch. Squirt the cleaner into
switch wherever I could. Work switch a few times with power off, of
course.

Plug in unit and see if it makes a difference.

This also works for scratchy volume controls.

If I may add (speaking from exeperience) before you plug it in and try it,
make sure that all the fumes from the cleaner have evaporated from INSIDE
the switch. I had a small fire once.

OTherwise I would buy a power strip with an on/off switch. The chances of
finding a new switch that fits and is cheap is very slim. Try the cleaning
first


"franz frippl" wrote in message
t...
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:38:30 +0000, Puddin' Man wrote:

Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is
unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay
on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller



If you can figure out how to open up case, you may be able to replace
switch provided you can find one which is compatible with space and
opening on chassis. You could always cobble together something which
would work.

Chances are it is only a matter of squirting some cleaning fluid into the
switch and working it a few times to free up years of accumulated gunk.

I would first purchase some electronics cleaner at an auto parts store or
Radio Shack. Open up chassis to access switch. Squirt the cleaner into
switch wherever I could. Work switch a few times with power off, of
course.

Plug in unit and see if it makes a difference.

This also works for scratchy volume controls.

On Sep 6, 7:38 am, Puddin' Man wrote:
Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

Take it from an old stereo collector. Get some Deoxit from www.partsexpress.com.
The switches including volume pots get dirty, corroded, etc. Squirt
some Deoxit in the switch with a paper towel underneath for drips.
Work the switch back and forth 10-20 times while unplugged. Give that
a try. I can't tell you how many vintage receivers that I picked up
for almost nothing at thrift stores that had problems with the pots
and switches. Deoxit works on many switch types even car window/door
lock switches that the dealer wants mega bucks to replace. Most of the
time the contacts are just dirty.

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 10:39:24 -0500, Mark Lloyd wrote:

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:38:30 GMT, Puddin' Man
wrote:


Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'


How about leaving that switch on

Don't think it'd work. Switch is making partial contact. It's
working now, but if I stomp on the floor or a heavy truck
goes by ...

(or bypassing it) and switching the
power?

That's a possibility -if- cleaning/fiddling doesn't
work. I doubt I could find a replacement switch for
reasonable money.

First I gotta find time to draw a diagram of all inputs,
outputs and put it on the workbench. Aaaaargh!

(missing sig separator of "-- "?)

Somebody else's convention, not mine.

Thx,
P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

Puddin' Man wrote:
Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

When it goes off, does the button mechanically move out, or does it stay
exactly where it was when it was on?

--
If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming,
you should stop exhaling.

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...

Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is
unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'

Suggestions by others may work but here is one more. Check the local
shoppers paper in your area and see if there is a radio restorer or
electronics repair guy. Some will do a simple job like that at a reasonable
price and he may have a box full of switches he can substitute. If you took
it to a real authorized repair shop they'd want $50 just to look at it, bus
some part time tinkerers will look at it as a challenge to fix, not a means
of making money.

A few years back I found a guy like that. I had a $500 circuit board from a
machine that needed repair. One place would repair it for $250, saving that
much over a new board. Found a local guy working in his basement and he
repaired it while I waited and hesitated to ask $5. I gave him $10 and we
were both happy.

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:46:12 -0500, clifto wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:
Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

When it goes off, does the button mechanically move out, or does it stay
exactly where it was when it was on?

It feels like it edges out a mm or 2 when the circuit opens and the
unit powers off.

P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 02:12:57 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
.. .

Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is
unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'

Suggestions by others may work but here is one more. Check the local
shoppers paper in your area and see if there is a radio restorer or
electronics repair guy. Some will do a simple job like that at a reasonable
price and he may have a box full of switches he can substitute. If you took
it to a real authorized repair shop they'd want $50 just to look at it,

I fear it's more like $75 hereabouts.

bus vsome part time tinkerers will look at it as a challenge to fix, not a means
of making money.

That kinda feller might be extremely rare nowadaze.

A few years back I found a guy like that. I had a $500 circuit board from a
machine that needed repair. One place would repair it for $250, saving that
much over a new board. Found a local guy working in his basement and he
repaired it while I waited and hesitated to ask $5. I gave him $10 and we
were both happy.

That's a nice story. Wish there were more like him.

Thx,
P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
Suggestions by others may work but here is one more. Check the local
shoppers paper in your area and see if there is a radio restorer or
electronics repair guy. Some will do a simple job like that at a reasonable
price and he may have a box full of switches he can substitute. If you took
it to a real authorized repair shop they'd want $50 just to look at it, bus
some part time tinkerers will look at it as a challenge to fix, not a means
of making money.



I might as well toss in my 10 cents worth: buy a can of spray contact cleaner,
unplug the receiver, then spray the hell out of that switch with it in all its
positions. Spray it, work it, spray it again. Repeat several times. Let it
dry before you try to use the receiver again. While you're at it you might as
well squirt some in all the pots while you twist them back and forth.

You will probably have to take the cover off to really get the switch clean but
it's worth it to try it without doing that first. What do you have to lose?

One thing I definitely would not do is spray it with WD-40. That stuff gets
gummy after a period of time. Use contact cleaner... easily obtained at any
Radio Shack or Lowes. A big spray can is only a few bucks.

If that doesn't work then take it to a repair place that still works on analog
equipment. But I'd be willing to bet you'll get it to work with the contact
cleaner. Excellent stuff.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com

Puddin' Man wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:46:12 -0500, clifto wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote:
Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

When it goes off, does the button mechanically move out, or does it stay
exactly where it was when it was on?

It feels like it edges out a mm or 2 when the circuit opens and the
unit powers off.

I'm thinking the little mechanical spring-and-groove linkage that makes
the switch stay in one of two positions (i.e. on or off) isn't working.
If that's the case, contact cleaner won't work and your only options are
switch replacement, or having someone wire across the switch to make it
always "on" and using an external switch, or unplugging it, to turn it
on and off.

--
If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming,
you should stop exhaling.

On Sep 6, 11:38 pm, clifto wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:46:12 -0500, clifto wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote:
Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

When it goes off, does the button mechanically move out, or does it stay
exactly where it was when it was on?

It feels like it edges out a mm or 2 when the circuit opens and the
unit powers off.

I'm thinking the little mechanical spring-and-groove linkage that makes
the switch stay in one of two positions (i.e. on or off) isn't working.
If that's the case,contact cleanerwon't work and your only options are
switch replacement, or having someone wire across the switch to make it
always "on" and using an external switch, or unplugging it, to turn it
on and off.

--
If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming,
you should stop exhaling.

The best contact cleaner to use is DeoxIT, actually improves
electrical connections/contacts OR use the whole can of a generic
contact cleaner and it may or may not work for a short period of time.
DeoxIT is unbelievable. www.deoxit.com or http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.15/category.295/.f
for distributor info.
Good luck
Mike

On Sep 6, 9:16 am, "Eric" wrote:
The advice below is good with one caveat...

Most electronics cleaning fluids, and other things that people use for that purpose likeWD-40, have flammamble solvents in
them. And unlike things like the volume control, that switch probably carries enough power to make a spark that could ignite
said fluid.

So after you do the cleaning, make really sure the thing's completely dry before plugging it in! Oh and of course *before*
you do the cleaning, *un*plug it.

Eric Law



"franz frippl" wrote in digy.net...
If you can figure out how to open up case, you may be able to replace
switch provided you can find one which is compatible with space and
opening on chassis. You could always cobble together something which
would work.

Chances are it is only a matter of squirting some cleaning fluid into the
switch and working it a few times to free up years of accumulated gunk.

I would first purchase some electronics cleaner at an auto parts store or
Radio Shack. Open up chassis to access switch. Squirt the cleaner into
switch wherever I could. Work switch a few times with power off, of
course.

Plug in unit and see if it makes a difference.

This also works for scratchy volume controls.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Or you can use DeoxIT, actually improves electrical connections. One
or two squirts will do the trick. They have three spray versions, one
economy one with a flammable solvent, one nonflammable and quick
drying and one with no solvent - just 100% deoxIT.
Link: http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.66/.f

Mike

On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 01:38:17 -0500, clifto wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:46:12 -0500, clifto wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote:
Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

When it goes off, does the button mechanically move out, or does it stay
exactly where it was when it was on?

It feels like it edges out a mm or 2 when the circuit opens and the
unit powers off.

I'm thinking the little mechanical spring-and-groove linkage that makes
the switch stay in one of two positions (i.e. on or off) isn't working.
If that's the case, contact cleaner won't work and your only options are
switch replacement, or having someone wire across the switch to make it
always "on" and using an external switch, or unplugging it, to turn it
on and off.

One of a number of things that I fear, and will be on the lookout for.

Thx,
P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 15:10:48 GMT, franz frippl
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:38:30 +0000, Puddin' Man wrote:

Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller



If you can figure out how to open up case, you may be able to replace
switch provided you can find one which is compatible with space and
opening on chassis. You could always cobble together something which
would work.

Chances are it is only a matter of squirting some cleaning fluid into the
switch and working it a few times to free up years of accumulated gunk.

I would first purchase some electronics cleaner at an auto parts store or
Radio Shack. Open up chassis to access switch. Squirt the cleaner into
switch wherever I could. Work switch a few times with power off, of
course.

Plug in unit and see if it makes a difference.

This also works for scratchy volume controls.

If none of the above works, just leave the switch in the ON position
and use a power strip to shut it off. Thats the easiest solution, and
if the switch dies entirely, you can just solder the wires together
that go to the switch and continue to use the power strip.

Puddin' Man wrote:
Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988.

Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered.

Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers
down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on.

Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch?
Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less
unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-)

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

Found this through a link in another thread.
Give these folks a try.

http://www.vintage-electronics.cc/

[8~{} Uncle Monster

shaq writes:

Or you can use DeoxIT, actually improves electrical connections. One
or two squirts will do the trick. They have three spray versions, one
economy one with a flammable solvent, one nonflammable and quick
drying and one with no solvent - just 100% deoxIT.

It sounds like the problem is not with the electrical contacts inside
the switch (because the amplifier does turn on), but with the mechanical
latch mechanism that implements push-on/push-off. And that's probably
due to dried grease.

DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not
what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the
mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then
relubricate with grease after it had dried.

Dave

On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 01:24:28 +0000 (UTC), (Dave Martindale) wrote:

shaq writes:

Or you can use DeoxIT, actually improves electrical connections. One
or two squirts will do the trick. They have three spray versions, one
economy one with a flammable solvent, one nonflammable and quick
drying and one with no solvent - just 100% deoxIT.

It sounds like the problem is not with the electrical contacts inside
the switch (because the amplifier does turn on), but with the mechanical
latch mechanism that implements push-on/push-off. And that's probably
due to dried grease.

DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not
what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the
mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then
relubricate with grease after it had dried.

What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)?

I opened the case, did an inspection. The push-button with mehanical
contact is soldered to a small board with speaker selection buttons
and earphone jack. I couldn't even get the board fully loose.

The switch sez M7 TV-4 4A/64A250V.

I dunno ...

Thx,
P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

In article ,
Puddin' Man wrote:

On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 01:24:28 +0000 (UTC), (Dave Martindale)
wrote:

shaq writes:

Or you can use DeoxIT, actually improves electrical connections. One
or two squirts will do the trick. They have three spray versions, one
economy one with a flammable solvent, one nonflammable and quick
drying and one with no solvent - just 100% deoxIT.

It sounds like the problem is not with the electrical contacts inside
the switch (because the amplifier does turn on), but with the mechanical
latch mechanism that implements push-on/push-off. And that's probably
due to dried grease.

DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not
what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the
mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then
relubricate with grease after it had dried.

What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)?

I opened the case, did an inspection. The push-button with mehanical
contact is soldered to a small board with speaker selection buttons
and earphone jack. I couldn't even get the board fully loose.

The switch sez M7 TV-4 4A/64A250V.

I dunno ...

Thx,
P


You might also have a cracked solder joint. Damn hard to see without
gobs of light and plenty of magnification. Easy to shotgun it by just
adding flux and reflowing all the solder connections to the on/off
switch.

Pudding Dot Man At Gmail Dot Com writes:

DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not
what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the
mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then
relubricate with grease after it had dried.

What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)?

White lithium grease is probably fine.

Dave

Dave Martindale wrote:

Pudding Dot Man At Gmail Dot Com writes:


DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not
what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the
mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then
relubricate with grease after it had dried.


What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)?


White lithium grease is probably fine.

Dave
Hi,
Lubriplate grease or spray(if it does not attack plastic housing) from
electronics parts store like old radio shack(it's called Sosurce now up
here in Canada). Think that push button toggle switch spring inside is
getting old.

Dave Martindale wrote:
Pudding Dot Man At Gmail Dot Com writes:

DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not
what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the
mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then
relubricate with grease after it had dried.

What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)?

White lithium grease is probably fine.

Perhaps, depending on what else if anything is in it...one of the
specific-purposes dielectric greases would be more certain unless it
mentions being a dielectric...

--

On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 12:34:01 -0500, dpb wrote:

Dave Martindale wrote:
Pudding Dot Man At Gmail Dot Com writes:

DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not
what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the
mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then
relubricate with grease after it had dried.

What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)?

White lithium grease is probably fine.

Perhaps, depending on what else if anything is in it...one of the
specific-purposes dielectric greases

There's more than one?

would be more certain unless it
mentions being a dielectric...

What I got is an ancient can of brown all-purpose grease
and an aerosol can of all-purpose white (no mention of
dielectric properties).

Suppose I need an all-purpose dielectric grease for everything
from spark plugs to stereo switches, etc. Price/availability?

Thx,
P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

Puddin' Man wrote:
On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 12:34:01 -0500, dpb wrote:

Dave Martindale wrote:
Pudding Dot Man At Gmail Dot Com writes:

DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not
what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the
mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then
relubricate with grease after it had dried.
What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)?
White lithium grease is probably fine.
Perhaps, depending on what else if anything is in it...one of the
specific-purposes dielectric greases

There's more than one?

would be more certain unless it
mentions being a dielectric...

What I got is an ancient can of brown all-purpose grease
and an aerosol can of all-purpose white (no mention of
dielectric properties).

Suppose I need an all-purpose dielectric grease for everything
from spark plugs to stereo switches, etc. Price/availability?

There are a veritable plethora, but I was meaning in the sense of being
specifically electrical-purpose dielectric just to be sure it didn't
have an undesirable additive.

The bulk greases are readily available in small tubes quite
inexpensively from any automotive supply. For your switch, you probably
need aerosol and the contact types are available at Radio Shack or most
any quality electronics supply -- the regular electrical supply places,
probably, but sure to be at the electronics guys...

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Puddin' Man wrote:
Suppose I need an all-purpose dielectric grease for everything
from spark plugs to stereo switches, etc. Price/availability?

Lubriplate is widely available and not expensive at all.

https://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/st...tle=LUBRIPLATE
for one source found randomly on a search engine.

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If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming,
you should stop exhaling.