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Switch on old stereo receiver
Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:38:30 +0000, Puddin' Man wrote:
Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller If you can figure out how to open up case, you may be able to replace switch provided you can find one which is compatible with space and opening on chassis. You could always cobble together something which would work. Chances are it is only a matter of squirting some cleaning fluid into the switch and working it a few times to free up years of accumulated gunk. I would first purchase some electronics cleaner at an auto parts store or Radio Shack. Open up chassis to access switch. Squirt the cleaner into switch wherever I could. Work switch a few times with power off, of course. Plug in unit and see if it makes a difference. This also works for scratchy volume controls. |
Switch on old stereo receiver
"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
... Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' The low tech answer would be to put a switch in the power cord. Lower would be to unplug to turn off, plug to turn on. Lazy would be to give it to a shop for repair. Modern would be to upgrade to a new system. Although all of these would be better than the firehose, Franz's ideas are the way to go. FMB (North Mexico) |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:38:30 GMT, Puddin' Man
wrote: Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' How about leaving that switch on (or bypassing it) and switching the power? (missing sig separator of "-- "?) "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller -- 110 days until the winter solstice celebration Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com "Unlike biological evolution. 'intelligent design' is not a genuine scientific theory and, therefore, has no place in the curriculum of our nation's public school classes." -- Ted Kennedy |
Switch on old stereo receiver
The advice below is good with one caveat...
Most electronics cleaning fluids, and other things that people use for that purpose like WD-40, have flammamble solvents in them. And unlike things like the volume control, that switch probably carries enough power to make a spark that could ignite said fluid. So after you do the cleaning, make really sure the thing's completely dry before plugging it in! Oh and of course *before* you do the cleaning, *un*plug it. Eric Law "franz frippl" wrote in message t... If you can figure out how to open up case, you may be able to replace switch provided you can find one which is compatible with space and opening on chassis. You could always cobble together something which would work. Chances are it is only a matter of squirting some cleaning fluid into the switch and working it a few times to free up years of accumulated gunk. I would first purchase some electronics cleaner at an auto parts store or Radio Shack. Open up chassis to access switch. Squirt the cleaner into switch wherever I could. Work switch a few times with power off, of course. Plug in unit and see if it makes a difference. This also works for scratchy volume controls. |
Switch on old stereo receiver
If I may add (speaking from exeperience) before you plug it in and try it,
make sure that all the fumes from the cleaner have evaporated from INSIDE the switch. I had a small fire once. OTherwise I would buy a power strip with an on/off switch. The chances of finding a new switch that fits and is cheap is very slim. Try the cleaning first "franz frippl" wrote in message t... On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:38:30 +0000, Puddin' Man wrote: Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller If you can figure out how to open up case, you may be able to replace switch provided you can find one which is compatible with space and opening on chassis. You could always cobble together something which would work. Chances are it is only a matter of squirting some cleaning fluid into the switch and working it a few times to free up years of accumulated gunk. I would first purchase some electronics cleaner at an auto parts store or Radio Shack. Open up chassis to access switch. Squirt the cleaner into switch wherever I could. Work switch a few times with power off, of course. Plug in unit and see if it makes a difference. This also works for scratchy volume controls. |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Sep 6, 7:38 am, Puddin' Man wrote:
Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller Take it from an old stereo collector. Get some Deoxit from www.partsexpress.com. The switches including volume pots get dirty, corroded, etc. Squirt some Deoxit in the switch with a paper towel underneath for drips. Work the switch back and forth 10-20 times while unplugged. Give that a try. I can't tell you how many vintage receivers that I picked up for almost nothing at thrift stores that had problems with the pots and switches. Deoxit works on many switch types even car window/door lock switches that the dealer wants mega bucks to replace. Most of the time the contacts are just dirty. |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 10:39:24 -0500, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:38:30 GMT, Puddin' Man wrote: Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' How about leaving that switch on Don't think it'd work. Switch is making partial contact. It's working now, but if I stomp on the floor or a heavy truck goes by ... (or bypassing it) and switching the power? That's a possibility -if- cleaning/fiddling doesn't work. I doubt I could find a replacement switch for reasonable money. First I gotta find time to draw a diagram of all inputs, outputs and put it on the workbench. Aaaaargh! (missing sig separator of "-- "?) Somebody else's convention, not mine. Thx, P "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller |
Switch on old stereo receiver
Puddin' Man wrote:
Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. When it goes off, does the button mechanically move out, or does it stay exactly where it was when it was on? -- If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming, you should stop exhaling. |
Switch on old stereo receiver
"Puddin' Man" wrote in message ... Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' Suggestions by others may work but here is one more. Check the local shoppers paper in your area and see if there is a radio restorer or electronics repair guy. Some will do a simple job like that at a reasonable price and he may have a box full of switches he can substitute. If you took it to a real authorized repair shop they'd want $50 just to look at it, bus some part time tinkerers will look at it as a challenge to fix, not a means of making money. A few years back I found a guy like that. I had a $500 circuit board from a machine that needed repair. One place would repair it for $250, saving that much over a new board. Found a local guy working in his basement and he repaired it while I waited and hesitated to ask $5. I gave him $10 and we were both happy. |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:46:12 -0500, clifto wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote: Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. When it goes off, does the button mechanically move out, or does it stay exactly where it was when it was on? It feels like it edges out a mm or 2 when the circuit opens and the unit powers off. P "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 02:12:57 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"Puddin' Man" wrote in message .. . Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' Suggestions by others may work but here is one more. Check the local shoppers paper in your area and see if there is a radio restorer or electronics repair guy. Some will do a simple job like that at a reasonable price and he may have a box full of switches he can substitute. If you took it to a real authorized repair shop they'd want $50 just to look at it, I fear it's more like $75 hereabouts. bus vsome part time tinkerers will look at it as a challenge to fix, not a means of making money. That kinda feller might be extremely rare nowadaze. A few years back I found a guy like that. I had a $500 circuit board from a machine that needed repair. One place would repair it for $250, saving that much over a new board. Found a local guy working in his basement and he repaired it while I waited and hesitated to ask $5. I gave him $10 and we were both happy. That's a nice story. Wish there were more like him. Thx, P "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller |
Switch on old stereo receiver
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
Suggestions by others may work but here is one more. Check the local shoppers paper in your area and see if there is a radio restorer or electronics repair guy. Some will do a simple job like that at a reasonable price and he may have a box full of switches he can substitute. If you took it to a real authorized repair shop they'd want $50 just to look at it, bus some part time tinkerers will look at it as a challenge to fix, not a means of making money. I might as well toss in my 10 cents worth: buy a can of spray contact cleaner, unplug the receiver, then spray the hell out of that switch with it in all its positions. Spray it, work it, spray it again. Repeat several times. Let it dry before you try to use the receiver again. While you're at it you might as well squirt some in all the pots while you twist them back and forth. You will probably have to take the cover off to really get the switch clean but it's worth it to try it without doing that first. What do you have to lose? One thing I definitely would not do is spray it with WD-40. That stuff gets gummy after a period of time. Use contact cleaner... easily obtained at any Radio Shack or Lowes. A big spray can is only a few bucks. If that doesn't work then take it to a repair place that still works on analog equipment. But I'd be willing to bet you'll get it to work with the contact cleaner. Excellent stuff. -- Mortimer Schnerd, RN mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com |
Switch on old stereo receiver
Puddin' Man wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:46:12 -0500, clifto wrote: Puddin' Man wrote: Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. When it goes off, does the button mechanically move out, or does it stay exactly where it was when it was on? It feels like it edges out a mm or 2 when the circuit opens and the unit powers off. I'm thinking the little mechanical spring-and-groove linkage that makes the switch stay in one of two positions (i.e. on or off) isn't working. If that's the case, contact cleaner won't work and your only options are switch replacement, or having someone wire across the switch to make it always "on" and using an external switch, or unplugging it, to turn it on and off. -- If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming, you should stop exhaling. |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Sep 6, 11:38 pm, clifto wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote: On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:46:12 -0500, clifto wrote: Puddin' Man wrote: Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. When it goes off, does the button mechanically move out, or does it stay exactly where it was when it was on? It feels like it edges out a mm or 2 when the circuit opens and the unit powers off. I'm thinking the little mechanical spring-and-groove linkage that makes the switch stay in one of two positions (i.e. on or off) isn't working. If that's the case,contact cleanerwon't work and your only options are switch replacement, or having someone wire across the switch to make it always "on" and using an external switch, or unplugging it, to turn it on and off. -- If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming, you should stop exhaling. The best contact cleaner to use is DeoxIT, actually improves electrical connections/contacts OR use the whole can of a generic contact cleaner and it may or may not work for a short period of time. DeoxIT is unbelievable. www.deoxit.com or http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.15/category.295/.f for distributor info. Good luck Mike |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Sep 6, 9:16 am, "Eric" wrote:
The advice below is good with one caveat... Most electronics cleaning fluids, and other things that people use for that purpose likeWD-40, have flammamble solvents in them. And unlike things like the volume control, that switch probably carries enough power to make a spark that could ignite said fluid. So after you do the cleaning, make really sure the thing's completely dry before plugging it in! Oh and of course *before* you do the cleaning, *un*plug it. Eric Law "franz frippl" wrote in digy.net... If you can figure out how to open up case, you may be able to replace switch provided you can find one which is compatible with space and opening on chassis. You could always cobble together something which would work. Chances are it is only a matter of squirting some cleaning fluid into the switch and working it a few times to free up years of accumulated gunk. I would first purchase some electronics cleaner at an auto parts store or Radio Shack. Open up chassis to access switch. Squirt the cleaner into switch wherever I could. Work switch a few times with power off, of course. Plug in unit and see if it makes a difference. This also works for scratchy volume controls.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Or you can use DeoxIT, actually improves electrical connections. One or two squirts will do the trick. They have three spray versions, one economy one with a flammable solvent, one nonflammable and quick drying and one with no solvent - just 100% deoxIT. Link: http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.66/.f Mike |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 01:38:17 -0500, clifto wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote: On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:46:12 -0500, clifto wrote: Puddin' Man wrote: Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. When it goes off, does the button mechanically move out, or does it stay exactly where it was when it was on? It feels like it edges out a mm or 2 when the circuit opens and the unit powers off. I'm thinking the little mechanical spring-and-groove linkage that makes the switch stay in one of two positions (i.e. on or off) isn't working. If that's the case, contact cleaner won't work and your only options are switch replacement, or having someone wire across the switch to make it always "on" and using an external switch, or unplugging it, to turn it on and off. One of a number of things that I fear, and will be on the lookout for. Thx, P "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 15:10:48 GMT, franz frippl
wrote: On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:38:30 +0000, Puddin' Man wrote: Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller If you can figure out how to open up case, you may be able to replace switch provided you can find one which is compatible with space and opening on chassis. You could always cobble together something which would work. Chances are it is only a matter of squirting some cleaning fluid into the switch and working it a few times to free up years of accumulated gunk. I would first purchase some electronics cleaner at an auto parts store or Radio Shack. Open up chassis to access switch. Squirt the cleaner into switch wherever I could. Work switch a few times with power off, of course. Plug in unit and see if it makes a difference. This also works for scratchy volume controls. If none of the above works, just leave the switch in the ON position and use a power strip to shut it off. Thats the easiest solution, and if the switch dies entirely, you can just solder the wires together that go to the switch and continue to use the power strip. |
Switch on old stereo receiver
Puddin' Man wrote:
Old Technics stereo receiver, circa 1988. Power switch. Button in in - unit is powered. Button in out - unit is unpowered. Now, if I just push the button to power it, it powers itself, then powers down. If I push the button in and release it -very- slowly, it'll stay on. Any feel for what I'd have to go thru to repair or replace the switch? Unplugging the unit to put it on a workbench is only slightly less unpleasant than an enema with a firehose. :-) Thx, Puddin' "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller Found this through a link in another thread. Give these folks a try. http://www.vintage-electronics.cc/ [8~{} Uncle Monster |
Switch on old stereo receiver
shaq writes:
Or you can use DeoxIT, actually improves electrical connections. One or two squirts will do the trick. They have three spray versions, one economy one with a flammable solvent, one nonflammable and quick drying and one with no solvent - just 100% deoxIT. It sounds like the problem is not with the electrical contacts inside the switch (because the amplifier does turn on), but with the mechanical latch mechanism that implements push-on/push-off. And that's probably due to dried grease. DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then relubricate with grease after it had dried. Dave |
Switch on old stereo receiver
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Switch on old stereo receiver
Pudding Dot Man At Gmail Dot Com writes:
DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then relubricate with grease after it had dried. What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)? White lithium grease is probably fine. Dave |
Switch on old stereo receiver
Dave Martindale wrote:
Pudding Dot Man At Gmail Dot Com writes: DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then relubricate with grease after it had dried. What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)? White lithium grease is probably fine. Dave Hi, Lubriplate grease or spray(if it does not attack plastic housing) from electronics parts store like old radio shack(it's called Sosurce now up here in Canada). Think that push button toggle switch spring inside is getting old. |
Switch on old stereo receiver
Dave Martindale wrote:
Pudding Dot Man At Gmail Dot Com writes: DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then relubricate with grease after it had dried. What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)? White lithium grease is probably fine. Perhaps, depending on what else if anything is in it...one of the specific-purposes dielectric greases would be more certain unless it mentions being a dielectric... -- |
Switch on old stereo receiver
On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 12:34:01 -0500, dpb wrote:
Dave Martindale wrote: Pudding Dot Man At Gmail Dot Com writes: DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then relubricate with grease after it had dried. What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)? White lithium grease is probably fine. Perhaps, depending on what else if anything is in it...one of the specific-purposes dielectric greases There's more than one? would be more certain unless it mentions being a dielectric... What I got is an ancient can of brown all-purpose grease and an aerosol can of all-purpose white (no mention of dielectric properties). Suppose I need an all-purpose dielectric grease for everything from spark plugs to stereo switches, etc. Price/availability? Thx, P "Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!" -Friedrich Schiller |
Switch on old stereo receiver
Puddin' Man wrote:
On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 12:34:01 -0500, dpb wrote: Dave Martindale wrote: Pudding Dot Man At Gmail Dot Com writes: DeoxIT might actually work to clean the mechanical parts, but that's not what it's designed for (and it's pretty expensive). I'd clean the mechanical parts with something like naphtha (lighter fluid), then relubricate with grease after it had dried. What kinda grease? Lithium grease (I got handy)? White lithium grease is probably fine. Perhaps, depending on what else if anything is in it...one of the specific-purposes dielectric greases There's more than one? would be more certain unless it mentions being a dielectric... What I got is an ancient can of brown all-purpose grease and an aerosol can of all-purpose white (no mention of dielectric properties). Suppose I need an all-purpose dielectric grease for everything from spark plugs to stereo switches, etc. Price/availability? There are a veritable plethora, but I was meaning in the sense of being specifically electrical-purpose dielectric just to be sure it didn't have an undesirable additive. The bulk greases are readily available in small tubes quite inexpensively from any automotive supply. For your switch, you probably need aerosol and the contact types are available at Radio Shack or most any quality electronics supply -- the regular electrical supply places, probably, but sure to be at the electronics guys... -- |
Switch on old stereo receiver
Puddin' Man wrote:
Suppose I need an all-purpose dielectric grease for everything from spark plugs to stereo switches, etc. Price/availability? Lubriplate is widely available and not expensive at all. https://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/st...tle=LUBRIPLATE for one source found randomly on a search engine. -- If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming, you should stop exhaling. |
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