"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:9f20a$46de2e24$9440c41e$18338
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:6d266$46de17da$9440c41e$14170
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...

Got it?


I got that you're a dickhead along time ago.


Wow. Interesting response to having your bad advise exposed once
again.
Some
folks would be smart enough to go away. You on the other hand want
to
stick
around and wallow in your incompetence.


All of the incompetence is coming from your end, Boy.

Liquid lines sweat? Local authority can't relax standards from model
code?


LL can sweat under the right conditions... if you say otherwise, you
need
further training in HVAC.

Ok, here it is for the last time: liquid lines don't sweat - if it is
sweating then it is something else. Got it? (I doubt it)


It's still the LL, Asshole!
Do you not understand anything?


No surprise there...
Local codes *do not* override manufacture's installation instruction,
Dip****!

Never said that local codes overrode manufacture's requirements. However
you
did say that model code couldn't be relaxed by local authority. Your
statement is totally wrong, as usual. Got it?


I got that you're covering for your previous lie.


Do you want me to go on?


Sure, but next time please post something that's factual.

You're the only liar here dancing monkey boi.


Here's a fact, your buddy meat plow is really your boyfriend.

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 21:45:20 -0500, kjpro wrote:


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 19:01:52 +0000, Clark wrote:

Meat Plow wrote in
:

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 11:03:30 +0000, Clark wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:2f5cc$46dce122$9440c41e$10717
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 21:21:55 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"

wrote:


"David" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I
have
with my water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7
years
ago failed to put the hot water heater in a location where
the
T&P relief valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..


The one in my house has a copper tube going up along the vent
(for
gas fumes) and draining on the roof, near the chimney.


Which is against code, if you live in an area where the outdoor
temps fall below freezing.
But, it's still not smart, unless there's a way for you to know
whether it's dripping or not.


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather...
Idiot!


My point stands whether you like it or not. Corrosion and valve
failure
are concerns whether or not there is a potential for freezing
weather.
Remember context.

Kjblow is so eager to fabricate faults and inaccuracies he often
takes
the dialog out of context.


Yup. He's just a dancing monkey boi.

This was written just for him.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fqi_ufeyKY

This was written just for you...

"Can't fix stupid"


Did you say something, Stupid?

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 21:43:45 -0500, kjpro wrote:


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 11:03:30 +0000, Clark wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:2f5cc$46dce122$9440c41e$10717
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 21:21:55 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"

wrote:


"David" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have
with
my water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years
ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the
T&P
relief valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..


The one in my house has a copper tube going up along the vent
(for
gas
fumes) and draining on the roof, near the chimney.


Which is against code, if you live in an area where the outdoor
temps
fall below freezing.
But, it's still not smart, unless there's a way for you to know
whether
it's dripping or not.


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!


My point stands whether you like it or not. Corrosion and valve
failure
are
concerns whether or not there is a potential for freezing weather.
Remember
context.

Kjblow is so eager to fabricate faults and inaccuracies he often takes
the dialog out of context.


Looking for a treat tonight?

Just got it, your idiotic replies in this thread


Doesn't take much to entertain ya, Eh?

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:57a69$46de3b11$9440c41e$7927
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:11566$46de2e7c$9440c41e$18377
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:b085c$46de1937$9440c41e$14444
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...

I admire your attempt to educate him.


First, you would have to know something I don't.

Do you mean maybe knowing that local building authority has total
control
over building code? Do you mean knowing that T&P drains should never
go
up
regardless of whether freezing is possible? Do you mean knowing the
difference between affect and effect? Do you mean knowing the
difference
between mute and moot? Do you mean knowing that liquid lines don't
sweat?


Do you ever win an argument?
Cause, it's sure not happening here.


Good luck with that...

Don't need luck in dealing with you, dancing monkey boi.


How's your boyfriend tonight?

Dance, boi, dance.


Looking for a treat?
Ask your butt buddy "meat plow" for one.



Dance, boi, dance.


Sorry, I'm not your boyfriend.
I don't dance with faggots.

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:44b66$46de2eb2$9440c41e$18380
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:e3b7a$46de1933$9440c41e$14444
@STARBAND.NET:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather...
Idiot!

Obviously you have no conception of the purpose of a
temperature
and
pressure relief valve.


You obviously don't know anything about them or the codes that
pertain to them.

Sigh:

"IRC P2803.6.1 Requirements of discharge pipe. The outlet of a
pressure
relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination thereof,
shall
not
be
directly connected to the drainage system. The discharge from the
relief
valve shall be piped full size separately to the floor, to the
outside
of
the building or to an indirect waste receptor located inside the
building."

Here's why:

"People don't like to test their T&Ps. But then, we don't think
it's
so
much
fun to wake up in the hospital, or to patch a big hole in the
roof,
either.
When water heaters explode, it's catastrophic. People are injured
or
die;
buildings are severely damaged. Test your T&Ps! And one more
thing:
T&P
drain lines should go down and out. Never up. If the valve opens,
water
will
pool there and corrode it shut. Or freeze in the line in colder
climes.
We've seen lines plumbed uphill so many times we've lost count.
But
there
SHOULD be a drain line, usually to within about six inches of the
floor,
or
plumbed outside. That's code around here [California]. It's to
prevent
you
from being scalded if the valve should open while you're standing
next
to
it."

It is the White Man's Burden to enlighten the benighted. I'm glad
I
was
able
to assist you.


No assistance needed, I already knew that.

No you didn't.


I posted about it (first), Duh!

Your lies don't cut it. HeyBub's post clearly shows that your claims
weren't true. Got it, boi?


My lies? You mean your bull****?
Heybub on the other hand, couldn't even understand that I was merely
playing with my pet and was be sarcastic.

"was be sarcastic" ??? drunk again monkey boi?

Fact is that you're telling lies again in a foolish attempt to cover-up
your incompentence. Sorry, it won't work.


Geez, you can't comprehend anything.
As if that's any surprise.


Just remember to keep dancing monkey boi.


It's not called dancing, it's pointing out your inaccurate bull****.

When you pull your head out of your ass and admit your incompetence I'll
stop making you dance monkey boi. In the mean time just remember to keep
on
dancing monkey boi.


You are, Faggot.
Did you get your treat this morning?

George wrote:
HeyBub wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
et...


As for where to drain the discharge, some jurisdictions
will permit discharge to open air outside (pipe thru wall).

Unless, it's subject to freezing conditions.

What on earth would freezing conditions have to do with 180-degree
water?
Suppose there is a slight leak from the valve and the discharge is
outside. The outside portion could become blocked with ice. If the T&P
valve should really have to do its job it can't because of the ice
jam.

I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle. In the event the
line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the freakin'
plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have the nastiest
pipe-bomb imaginable.

T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure." They are
designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all to hell.
They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!

The "job" of a T&P valve is to prevent a hole in your roof from an exploding
water heater. And scalding the cat.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
George wrote:
HeyBub wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
et...


As for where to drain the discharge, some jurisdictions
will permit discharge to open air outside (pipe thru wall).

Unless, it's subject to freezing conditions.

What on earth would freezing conditions have to do with 180-degree
water?
Suppose there is a slight leak from the valve and the discharge is
outside. The outside portion could become blocked with ice. If the T&P
valve should really have to do its job it can't because of the ice
jam.

I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle.


And can cause a line blockage.
Anyway, it's against code!


In the event the
line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the
freakin'
plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have the nastiest
pipe-bomb imaginable.

T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure."


Whether their designed too or not, that doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
You've never saw one that was corroded because it had a slow leak?
You're showing that you have no experience with PT valves.


They are
designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all to hell.
They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!


Design and "what happens in the field" is sometimes two completely different
things.

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle.


And can cause a line blockage.
Anyway, it's against code!

Goddamn it! Building codes specifically REQUIRE P&T valves to be vented
outside (or an approved alternate - which never includes UP).



In the event the
line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the
freakin' plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have the
nastiest pipe-bomb imaginable.

T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure."


Whether their designed too or not, that doesn't mean it doesn't
happen. You've never saw one that was corroded because it had a slow
leak?
You're showing that you have no experience with PT valves.

I agree they sometimes leak. Just like a water faucet sometimes leaks. What
makes you assume I've never seen a leaky one? How did you reach that
conclusion?



They are
designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all to
hell. They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!


Design and "what happens in the field" is sometimes two completely
different things.

Right. Sometimes fail-safe systems fail by failing to fail safe. Sometimes
fail-safe systems fail because a cretin installed them - as in not venting a
P&T valve to the outside.

on 9/5/2007 5:17 PM HeyBub said the following:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle.

And can cause a line blockage.
Anyway, it's against code!


Goddamn it! Building codes specifically REQUIRE P&T valves to be vented
outside (or an approved alternate - which never includes UP).



In the event the
line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the
freakin' plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have the
nastiest pipe-bomb imaginable.

T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure."

Whether their designed too or not, that doesn't mean it doesn't
happen. You've never saw one that was corroded because it had a slow
leak?
You're showing that you have no experience with PT valves.


I agree they sometimes leak. Just like a water faucet sometimes leaks. What
makes you assume I've never seen a leaky one? How did you reach that
conclusion?



They are
designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all to
hell. They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!

Design and "what happens in the field" is sometimes two completely
different things.


Right. Sometimes fail-safe systems fail by failing to fail safe. Sometimes
fail-safe systems fail because a cretin installed them - as in not venting a
P&T valve to the outside.

What do I do in my house? The Water Heater is in the basement and there
is no exit for a pipe that is not 6' below ground.
The best I can do is to have the T&P pipe dump into a pail with a sump
pump that will get it above ground.
The Water Softener suffers the same restriction and it is across the
cellar from the heater.
This house was approved by an inspector.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

willshak wrote:

What do I do in my house? The Water Heater is in the basement and
there is no exit for a pipe that is not 6' below ground.
The best I can do is to have the T&P pipe dump into a pail with a sump
pump that will get it above ground.
The Water Softener suffers the same restriction and it is across the
cellar from the heater.
This house was approved by an inspector.

That'll work. And perhaps code in your area allows UP.

If the pipe goes up, then a small leak could allow water to enter the valve
from the wrong direction. This back-up water could corrode the valve,
rendering it ineffective and non-functional. That's the problem with UP.

The purpose of the valve is not to prevent your carpet getting soaked; it's
purpose is to prevent death from explosion, scalding from a ruptured tank,
or a hole through two floors and the roof when the tank takes off like a
rocket.

Here's an example of ONE LITER of water, under pressure, blowing its
container 300 feet into the air!
http://users.bigpond.net.au/mechtoys/waterrocket.html

Here's an exploding water heater that did $750,000 worth of damage.
http://www.theplumber.com/explodingwaterheater.html

The ruckus from an exploding tank will also disturb your cat.

HeyBub wrote:
George wrote:
HeyBub wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
et...


As for where to drain the discharge, some jurisdictions
will permit discharge to open air outside (pipe thru wall).
Unless, it's subject to freezing conditions.
What on earth would freezing conditions have to do with 180-degree
water?
Suppose there is a slight leak from the valve and the discharge is
outside. The outside portion could become blocked with ice. If the T&P
valve should really have to do its job it can't because of the ice
jam.

I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle. In the event the
line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the freakin'
plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have the nastiest
pipe-bomb imaginable.

Ice can be a very effective plug (you may know of the technique where
you freeze a pipe under pressure so you can perform service downstream?)

Consider your pipe bomb theory. Suppose you fit a pipe cap to simulate
an ice jam and cause a condition that would cause the T&P valve to go
full open. The pressure wouldn't be any different than it would be on
the service lines to the tank. So if the T&P were blocked and lets say
it were a runaway condition where the burner was stuck on. The possible
outcomes would be that *any* line connected to the tank might fail but
the likely thing would be that the tank would rupture.



T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure." They are
designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all to hell.
They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!

How can they go "boom"? Do they contribute *more* energy than is in the
tank?



The "job" of a T&P valve is to prevent a hole in your roof from an exploding
water heater. And scalding the cat.

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:64f8b$46dec279$9440c41e$18537
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:9f20a$46de2e24$9440c41e$18338
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:6d266$46de17da$9440c41e$14170
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...

Got it?


I got that you're a dickhead along time ago.


Wow. Interesting response to having your bad advise exposed once
again.
Some
folks would be smart enough to go away. You on the other hand
want
to
stick
around and wallow in your incompetence.


All of the incompetence is coming from your end, Boy.

Liquid lines sweat? Local authority can't relax standards from model
code?


LL can sweat under the right conditions... if you say otherwise, you
need
further training in HVAC.

Ok, here it is for the last time: liquid lines don't sweat - if it is
sweating then it is something else. Got it? (I doubt it)


It's still the LL, Asshole!
Do you not understand anything?

You do remember that you said it was the liquid line sweating on a mini-
split, don't you? Guess you'd like to forget that screw-up wouldn't you.


I never called it a LL on the mini-split, asshole.
Lies, lies and more lies is all you have to post.


No surprise there...
Local codes *do not* override manufacture's installation instruction,
Dip****!

Never said that local codes overrode manufacture's requirements.
However
you
did say that model code couldn't be relaxed by local authority. Your
statement is totally wrong, as usual. Got it?


I got that you're covering for your previous lie.

The only story teller here is you, boi.


Facts, it's facts, unlike your bull**** lies.


Do you want me to go on?


Sure, but next time please post something that's factual.

You're the only liar here dancing monkey boi.


Here's a fact, your buddy meat plow is really your boyfriend.


Wrong again on all counts as usual. Just keep dancing monkey boi.


You're one hungry stupid son-a-bitch.

"Clark" wrote in message
...


More lies snipped...

"Clark" wrote in message
...


More lies snipped...

"Clark" wrote in message
...


More lies snipped...

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle.


And can cause a line blockage.
Anyway, it's against code!

Goddamn it! Building codes specifically REQUIRE P&T valves to be vented
outside


Bull****, they are not required to be vented outside!!!!!

Matter of fact, it's against code to pipe them outside when they are subject
to freezing weather!
Now get a clue, dumbass!


In the event the
line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the
freakin' plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have the
nastiest pipe-bomb imaginable.

T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure."


Whether their designed too or not, that doesn't mean it doesn't
happen. You've never saw one that was corroded because it had a slow
leak?
You're showing that you have no experience with PT valves.

I agree they sometimes leak. Just like a water faucet sometimes leaks.
What
makes you assume I've never seen a leaky one? How did you reach that
conclusion?


You said they're not designed to leak. But in fact, many do...


They are
designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all to
hell. They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!


Design and "what happens in the field" is sometimes two completely
different things.

Right. Sometimes fail-safe systems fail by failing to fail safe. Sometimes
fail-safe systems fail because a cretin installed them - as in not venting
a
P&T valve to the outside.


When are you going to read up on PT valves and learn that you are *not*
required to pipe them outside????
And that it's *against code* to do so, when they're subject to freezing
temperatures????

"willshak" wrote in message
...
on 9/5/2007 5:17 PM HeyBub said the following:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle.

And can cause a line blockage.
Anyway, it's against code!


Goddamn it! Building codes specifically REQUIRE P&T valves to be vented
outside (or an approved alternate - which never includes UP).



In the event the
line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the
freakin' plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have the
nastiest pipe-bomb imaginable.

T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure."

Whether their designed too or not, that doesn't mean it doesn't
happen. You've never saw one that was corroded because it had a slow
leak?
You're showing that you have no experience with PT valves.


I agree they sometimes leak. Just like a water faucet sometimes leaks.
What
makes you assume I've never seen a leaky one? How did you reach that
conclusion?



They are
designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all to
hell. They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!

Design and "what happens in the field" is sometimes two completely
different things.


Right. Sometimes fail-safe systems fail by failing to fail safe.
Sometimes
fail-safe systems fail because a cretin installed them - as in not
venting a
P&T valve to the outside.

What do I do in my house? The Water Heater is in the basement and there
is no exit for a pipe that is not 6' below ground.
The best I can do is to have the T&P pipe dump into a pail with a sump
pump that will get it above ground.
The Water Softener suffers the same restriction and it is across the
cellar from the heater.
This house was approved by an inspector.


It's not *required* to be piped outside, no matter how many times Heybub
says so...

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
willshak wrote:

What do I do in my house? The Water Heater is in the basement and
there is no exit for a pipe that is not 6' below ground.
The best I can do is to have the T&P pipe dump into a pail with a sump
pump that will get it above ground.
The Water Softener suffers the same restriction and it is across the
cellar from the heater.
This house was approved by an inspector.

That'll work. And perhaps code in your area allows UP.


Now you say UP is fine...

Geez, make up your mind...


If the pipe goes up, then a small leak could allow water to enter the
valve
from the wrong direction. This back-up water could corrode the valve,
rendering it ineffective and non-functional. That's the problem with UP.

The purpose of the valve is not to prevent your carpet getting soaked;
it's
purpose is to prevent death from explosion, scalding from a ruptured tank,
or a hole through two floors and the roof when the tank takes off like a
rocket.

Here's an example of ONE LITER of water, under pressure, blowing its
container 300 feet into the air!
http://users.bigpond.net.au/mechtoys/waterrocket.html

Here's an exploding water heater that did $750,000 worth of damage.
http://www.theplumber.com/explodingwaterheater.html

The ruckus from an exploding tank will also disturb your cat.

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:cf96b$46df8609$9440c41e$28220
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:64f8b$46dec279$9440c41e$18537
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:9f20a$46de2e24$9440c41e$18338
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:6d266$46de17da$9440c41e
$14170
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...

Got it?


I got that you're a dickhead along time ago.


Wow. Interesting response to having your bad advise exposed
once
again.
Some
folks would be smart enough to go away. You on the other hand
want
to
stick
around and wallow in your incompetence.


All of the incompetence is coming from your end, Boy.

Liquid lines sweat? Local authority can't relax standards from
model
code?


LL can sweat under the right conditions... if you say otherwise,
you
need
further training in HVAC.

Ok, here it is for the last time: liquid lines don't sweat - if it
is
sweating then it is something else. Got it? (I doubt it)


It's still the LL, Asshole!
Do you not understand anything?

You do remember that you said it was the liquid line sweating on a
mini-
split, don't you? Guess you'd like to forget that screw-up wouldn't
you.


I never called it a LL on the mini-split, asshole.
Lies, lies and more lies is all you have to post.

Not one single lie. You asked how I knew it wasn't a liquid line. In other
words you thought it was a liquid line. Got it?


I got you for more lies... as always.
The fact remains, a LL can sweat, asshole.

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Lies snipped...

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Lies snipped...

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Lies snipped...

"pRECISIONmachinisT" wrote in message
news:FqKdnbtJS7mZEELbnZ2dnUVZ_sGvnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"willshak" wrote in message
...
on 9/5/2007 5:17 PM HeyBub said the following:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle.

And can cause a line blockage.
Anyway, it's against code!


Goddamn it! Building codes specifically REQUIRE P&T valves to be
vented
outside (or an approved alternate - which never includes UP).



In the event the
line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the
freakin' plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have
the
nastiest pipe-bomb imaginable.

T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure."

Whether their designed too or not, that doesn't mean it doesn't
happen. You've never saw one that was corroded because it had a
slow
leak?
You're showing that you have no experience with PT valves.


I agree they sometimes leak. Just like a water faucet sometimes
leaks.
What
makes you assume I've never seen a leaky one? How did you reach that
conclusion?



They are
designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all
to
hell. They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!

Design and "what happens in the field" is sometimes two completely
different things.


Right. Sometimes fail-safe systems fail by failing to fail safe.
Sometimes
fail-safe systems fail because a cretin installed them - as in not
venting a
P&T valve to the outside.

What do I do in my house? The Water Heater is in the basement and
there
is no exit for a pipe that is not 6' below ground.
The best I can do is to have the T&P pipe dump into a pail with a sump
pump that will get it above ground.
The Water Softener suffers the same restriction and it is across the
cellar from the heater.
This house was approved by an inspector.


It's not *required* to be piped outside, no matter how many times Heybub
says so...


Pretty sure I read up on this one just recently...and recall needs to go
almost to the floor leaving just enough room so as to comfortably fit your
foot directly underneath so if someone messes with the pop-off it will
only
scald the living **** outa your little piggy.


Right from the warning tag....

Warning:
To avoid water damage and/or scalding due to valve operation, a discharge
line must be connected to valve and run to a safe place of disposal. The
discharge line must be as short as possible and must be of the same size as
the valve discharge connection throughout its entire length. The discharge
line must pitch downward from the valve and terminate at least 6" (152 mm)
above a drain where any discharge will be clearly visible. The discharge
line must terminate through plain (unthreaded) pipe. Discharge material must
conform to local plumbing code or A.S.M.E. requirements. Excessive length
more than 30 feet (9.14 m), use of more than four elbows or bends in
discharge piping, or reduction of discharge line size will cause a
restriction and reduce the discharge capacity of the valve. No shut-off
valve should be installed between the relief valve and the tank, or in the
discharge line.

If they can't understand that... they need to call a professional!!!!

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:3419f$46df8878$9440c41e$28443
@STARBAND.NET:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
willshak wrote:

What do I do in my house? The Water Heater is in the basement and
there is no exit for a pipe that is not 6' below ground.
The best I can do is to have the T&P pipe dump into a pail with a
sump
pump that will get it above ground.
The Water Softener suffers the same restriction and it is across the
cellar from the heater.
This house was approved by an inspector.

That'll work. And perhaps code in your area allows UP.


Now you say UP is fine...

Geez, make up your mind...

You're the one that posted that up is ok as long as it isn't exposed to
freezing weather. Of course you are wrong but what do you care.


You like posting lies... must be because you tell so many.

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Lies snipped...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"willshak" wrote in message
...
on 9/5/2007 5:17 PM HeyBub said the following:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle.

And can cause a line blockage.
Anyway, it's against code!


Goddamn it! Building codes specifically REQUIRE P&T valves to be
vented
outside (or an approved alternate - which never includes UP).



In the event the
line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the
freakin' plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have the
nastiest pipe-bomb imaginable.

T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure."

Whether their designed too or not, that doesn't mean it doesn't
happen. You've never saw one that was corroded because it had a slow
leak?
You're showing that you have no experience with PT valves.


I agree they sometimes leak. Just like a water faucet sometimes leaks.
What
makes you assume I've never seen a leaky one? How did you reach that
conclusion?



They are
designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all to
hell. They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!

Design and "what happens in the field" is sometimes two completely
different things.


Right. Sometimes fail-safe systems fail by failing to fail safe.
Sometimes
fail-safe systems fail because a cretin installed them - as in not
venting a
P&T valve to the outside.

What do I do in my house? The Water Heater is in the basement and there
is no exit for a pipe that is not 6' below ground.
The best I can do is to have the T&P pipe dump into a pail with a sump
pump that will get it above ground.
The Water Softener suffers the same restriction and it is across the
cellar from the heater.
This house was approved by an inspector.


It's not *required* to be piped outside, no matter how many times Heybub
says so...


Pretty sure I read up on this one just recently...and recall needs to go
almost to the floor leaving just enough room so as to comfortably fit your
foot directly underneath so if someone messes with the pop-off it will only
scald the living **** outa your little piggy.

--

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

schnipperdazolsky


If they can't understand that... they need to call a professional!!!!


Plumb as the feed line for your overhead fire supression system--my bets
the inspecter will never catch it

--

Hey, girls, why don't you just take this to email instead of cluttering up the
NG?

In article , Clark
wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:c02f9$46df8e4a$9440c41e$28869
:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:cf96b$46df8609$9440c41e$28220
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:64f8b$46dec279$9440c41e$18537
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:9f20a$46de2e24$9440c41e
$18338
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:6d266$46de17da$9440c41e
$14170
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...

Got it?


I got that you're a dickhead along time ago.


Wow. Interesting response to having your bad advise exposed
once
again.
Some
folks would be smart enough to go away. You on the other
hand
want
to
stick
around and wallow in your incompetence.


All of the incompetence is coming from your end, Boy.

Liquid lines sweat? Local authority can't relax standards from
model
code?


LL can sweat under the right conditions... if you say otherwise,
you
need
further training in HVAC.

Ok, here it is for the last time: liquid lines don't sweat - if it
is
sweating then it is something else. Got it? (I doubt it)


It's still the LL, Asshole!
Do you not understand anything?

You do remember that you said it was the liquid line sweating on a
mini-
split, don't you? Guess you'd like to forget that screw-up wouldn't
you.


I never called it a LL on the mini-split, asshole.
Lies, lies and more lies is all you have to post.

Not one single lie. You asked how I knew it wasn't a liquid line. In
other
words you thought it was a liquid line. Got it?


I got you for more lies... as always.
The fact remains, a LL can sweat, asshole.

You don't have a darn thing, drunken monkey boi. You know you had to ask
why I knew a liquid line wouldn't be sweating.

Just keep dancing drunken monkey boi.



--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Forget it Clark you are not changing mine of numskull
All he knows how to criticized never advice.

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Clark" wrote in message
...


Lies snipped...

Not one single lie you incompetent fool. You don't know why a liquid line
won't sweat, you give bad advise on T&P's, you have no clue about how
building codes are implemented, you think all manufacturer's require the
exact same thing, and you make incomprehensible posts while drunk. In
other
words, you're a blight on the newsfroup. Got it?



--
---
there should be a "sig" here

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Clark" wrote in message
...


Lies snipped...

Not one single lie you incompetent fool. You don't know why a liquid line
won't sweat, you give bad advise on T&P's, you have no clue about how
building codes are implemented, you think all manufacturer's require the
exact same thing, and you make incomprehensible posts while drunk. In
other
words, you're a blight on the newsfroup. Got it?


More lies and I have told you several times, I already know that you're an
idiot.

"Depress" wrote in message
newsScEi.5$He1.4@trnddc03...
Forget it Clark you are not changing mine of numskull
All he knows how to criticized never advice.


Coming from a new want-a-bee...

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Retard.

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Retard

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Retard

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Retard

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Retard

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Retard

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Clueless... and nothing but lies.

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Clueless... and nothing but lies.

"Clark" wrote in message
...


Clueless... and nothing but lies.