View Single Post
  #63   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.hvac
No Name
 
Posts: n/a
Default T&P relief valve - nowhere to drain?


"pRECISIONmachinisT" wrote in message
news:FqKdnbtJS7mZEELbnZ2dnUVZ_sGvnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"willshak" wrote in message
...
on 9/5/2007 5:17 PM HeyBub said the following:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle.

And can cause a line blockage.
Anyway, it's against code!


Goddamn it! Building codes specifically REQUIRE P&T valves to be

vented
outside (or an approved alternate - which never includes UP).



In the event the
line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the
freakin' plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have

the
nastiest pipe-bomb imaginable.

T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure."

Whether their designed too or not, that doesn't mean it doesn't
happen. You've never saw one that was corroded because it had a

slow
leak?
You're showing that you have no experience with PT valves.


I agree they sometimes leak. Just like a water faucet sometimes

leaks.
What
makes you assume I've never seen a leaky one? How did you reach that
conclusion?



They are
designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all

to
hell. They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!

Design and "what happens in the field" is sometimes two completely
different things.


Right. Sometimes fail-safe systems fail by failing to fail safe.

Sometimes
fail-safe systems fail because a cretin installed them - as in not

venting a
P&T valve to the outside.

What do I do in my house? The Water Heater is in the basement and

there
is no exit for a pipe that is not 6' below ground.
The best I can do is to have the T&P pipe dump into a pail with a sump
pump that will get it above ground.
The Water Softener suffers the same restriction and it is across the
cellar from the heater.
This house was approved by an inspector.



It's not *required* to be piped outside, no matter how many times Heybub
says so...


Pretty sure I read up on this one just recently...and recall needs to go
almost to the floor leaving just enough room so as to comfortably fit your
foot directly underneath so if someone messes with the pop-off it will

only
scald the living **** outa your little piggy.



Right from the warning tag....

Warning:
To avoid water damage and/or scalding due to valve operation, a discharge
line must be connected to valve and run to a safe place of disposal. The
discharge line must be as short as possible and must be of the same size as
the valve discharge connection throughout its entire length. The discharge
line must pitch downward from the valve and terminate at least 6" (152 mm)
above a drain where any discharge will be clearly visible. The discharge
line must terminate through plain (unthreaded) pipe. Discharge material must
conform to local plumbing code or A.S.M.E. requirements. Excessive length
more than 30 feet (9.14 m), use of more than four elbows or bends in
discharge piping, or reduction of discharge line size will cause a
restriction and reduce the discharge capacity of the valve. No shut-off
valve should be installed between the relief valve and the tank, or in the
discharge line.

If they can't understand that... they need to call a professional!!!!