Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have with my
water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P relief
valve can safely dump water to a drain. The water heater is installed
in a small closet, below grade, and was placed on top of carpeting,
underlay, and then the concrete foundation. I didn't even realize
that it was normal for the T&P relief valve to activate periodically -
I thought it was in the event of a catastrophic failure, but I now
know that's not the case.

I just noticed that the carpeting is completely soaked, and there's
mold growing in the carpet. I'm pretty sure it's not leaking from
anywhere, so I have to assume the T&P relief valve is doing its thing.

There's no drain anywhere near the heater. Is there another
alternative to placing a bucket under the drain tube?

On a side note, I'm not quite sure why the T&P valve would be
activating so much lately, unless it's because we've been using more
hot water since the arrival of our first child. I don't think the
moisture problem in the water heater closet has been going on for
long. I've been checking the drain tube periodically, and it doesn't
appear there's a slow leak or anything.

Any advice?

"David" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have with my
water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P relief
valve can safely dump water to a drain. The water heater is installed
in a small closet, below grade, and was placed on top of carpeting,
underlay, and then the concrete foundation. I didn't even realize
that it was normal for the T&P relief valve to activate periodically -
I thought it was in the event of a catastrophic failure, but I now
know that's not the case.


It's not to activate periodically, so what made you think otherwise?


I just noticed that the carpeting is completely soaked, and there's
mold growing in the carpet. I'm pretty sure it's not leaking from
anywhere, so I have to assume the T&P relief valve is doing its thing.


Which would indicate a problem that needs to be corrected.


There's no drain anywhere near the heater. Is there another
alternative to placing a bucket under the drain tube?

On a side note, I'm not quite sure why the T&P valve would be
activating so much lately, unless it's because we've been using more
hot water since the arrival of our first child. I don't think the
moisture problem in the water heater closet has been going on for
long. I've been checking the drain tube periodically, and it doesn't
appear there's a slow leak or anything.

Any advice?


Have it checked out?
There is a problem that needs to be addressed, before you end up with a
bigger mess.

T&P valve should NOT normally open, get that fixed immediately.

common causes high home watewr pressure, backflow preventer doing its
job on main water line in, tank set too hot...

might be a leaking tank........ put bucket or pan under output of
valve to get better idea of source of water

"David" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have with my
water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P relief
valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..



The water heater is installed
in a small closet, below grade, and was placed on top of carpeting,
underlay, and then the concrete foundation. I didn't even realize
that it was normal for the T&P relief valve to activate periodically -
I thought it was in the event of a catastrophic failure, but I now
know that's not the case.

It is pretty much the case. You have a problem that needs fixing. Could be
the valve itself going bad, chould be the temperature is running to high for
some reason, like a bad thermostat, or the water pressure is higher than
normal. .



I just noticed that the carpeting is completely soaked, and there's
mold growing in the carpet. I'm pretty sure it's not leaking from
anywhere, so I have to assume the T&P relief valve is doing its thing.

There's no drain anywhere near the heater. Is there another
alternative to placing a bucket under the drain tube?


Put a bucket under it to be sure that is where the water is coming from.

David wrote:
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have with my
water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P relief
valve can safely dump water to a drain. The water heater is installed
in a small closet, below grade, and was placed on top of carpeting,
underlay, and then the concrete foundation. I didn't even realize
that it was normal for the T&P relief valve to activate periodically -
I thought it was in the event of a catastrophic failure, but I now
know that's not the case.

I just noticed that the carpeting is completely soaked, and there's
mold growing in the carpet. I'm pretty sure it's not leaking from
anywhere, so I have to assume the T&P relief valve is doing its thing.

There's no drain anywhere near the heater. Is there another
alternative to placing a bucket under the drain tube?

On a side note, I'm not quite sure why the T&P valve would be
activating so much lately, unless it's because we've been using more
hot water since the arrival of our first child. I don't think the
moisture problem in the water heater closet has been going on for
long. I've been checking the drain tube periodically, and it doesn't
appear there's a slow leak or anything.

Any advice?


Normally, the T&P should never open.

The single most frequent cause of discharge
is excessive pressure caused by thermal expansion.
If you are on city water where pressure
is very high and you have a PRV (regulator) ,
the expansion of water as the tank heats has nowhere
to go. The pressure builds until the T&P valve opens.

The solution is relatively painless:
http://www.zurn.com/pages/catalog.as...OperationID=11
The XT model expansion tank is added to the piping
on the Cold inlet to the tank.

I've just skimmed over this topic. There are a host
of considerations regarding service pressure and PRV's
that may need to be looked at.

As for where to drain the discharge, some jurisdictions
will permit discharge to open air outside (pipe thru wall).

Jim

David wrote:
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have with my
water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P relief
valve can safely dump water to a drain. The water heater is installed
in a small closet, below grade, and was placed on top of carpeting,


Any advice?

Replace the water heater. Seven years for a three-year device is pretty
good.

Around here, water under the water heater indicates a leaking tank.

The T&P valve is to prevent an EXPLODING water heater, not for piddly excess
drainage.

On Sep 3, 6:07 pm, David wrote:
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have with my
water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P relief
valve can safely dump water to a drain. The water heater is installed
in a small closet, below grade, and was placed on top of carpeting,
underlay, and then the concrete foundation. I didn't even realize
that it was normal for the T&P relief valve to activate periodically -
I thought it was in the event of a catastrophic failure, but I now
know that's not the case.

I just noticed that the carpeting is completely soaked, and there's
mold growing in the carpet. I'm pretty sure it's not leaking from
anywhere, so I have to assume the T&P relief valve is doing its thing.

There's no drain anywhere near the heater. Is there another
alternative to placing a bucket under the drain tube?

On a side note, I'm not quite sure why the T&P valve would be
activating so much lately, unless it's because we've been using more
hot water since the arrival of our first child. I don't think the
moisture problem in the water heater closet has been going on for
long. I've been checking the drain tube periodically, and it doesn't
appear there's a slow leak or anything.

Any advice?

Thanks for all the quick advice, everyone. I was going by the manual
for the heater (GH Wood Series Pro model JW525, which appears to have
an 8-year warranty), which suggests that periodic opening of the T&P
valve is normal.

Looks like I'll have to bring in a plumber no matter how you slice
it. At least if it's the heater itself that's leaking, it seems to be
still under warranty. I've got a jug under the T&P valve just to see
if anything happens between now and when I call in the plumber
tomorrow.

It doesn't appear to be a thermostat that's gone (the water is 133.5
F, by a pretty accurate thermometer). It would've been too easy if it
were something that simple - I could've handled that on my own
(electronics technician).

The pressure could be a problem. I had a PEX joint start to leak
about a year ago, and the plumber (who didn't have a pressure gauge)
turned down the pressure regulator at the main shutoff (it was wide
open). Perhaps it needs to be turned down even further.

David wrote:
On Sep 3, 6:07 pm, David wrote:
SNIP

The pressure could be a problem. I had a PEX joint start to leak
about a year ago, and the plumber (who didn't have a pressure gauge)
turned down the pressure regulator at the main shutoff (it was wide
open). Perhaps it needs to be turned down even further.


You misunderstood. The pressure regulator *is* the problem.
They contain a check valve which prevents the expansion
pressure from dumping back to the city main. That's why
the expansion tank is needed.

But do the bucket-under-the-relief test before doing anything.

Jim

On Sep 3, 6:43 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:
David wrote:
On Sep 3, 6:07 pm, David wrote:
SNIP

The pressure could be a problem. I had a PEX joint start to leak
about a year ago, and the plumber (who didn't have a pressure gauge)
turned down the pressure regulator at the main shutoff (it was wide
open). Perhaps it needs to be turned down even further.

You misunderstood. The pressure regulator *is* the problem.
They contain a check valve which prevents the expansion
pressure from dumping back to the city main. That's why
the expansion tank is needed.

But do the bucket-under-the-relief test before doing anything.

Jim

Also, TPR valves do go bad and fail to seat properly. Before I call
in a plumber, I'd find out for sure where the water is coming from,
which shouldn't be hard. It could be that you need an expansion tank
as suggested. But it could also be a bad TPR which is available at
home centers or plumbing supply and if you're at all capable, it's a
quick and easy replacement for $10.

As to where to try to route the water from TPR to, impossible to say
here without seeing where it's located.

On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 21:21:55 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"David" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have with my
water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P relief
valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..


The one in my house has a copper tube going up along the vent (for gas
fumes) and draining on the roof, near the chimney.



The water heater is installed
in a small closet, below grade, and was placed on top of carpeting,
underlay, and then the concrete foundation. I didn't even realize
that it was normal for the T&P relief valve to activate periodically -
I thought it was in the event of a catastrophic failure, but I now
know that's not the case.

It is pretty much the case. You have a problem that needs fixing. Could be
the valve itself going bad, chould be the temperature is running to high for
some reason, like a bad thermostat, or the water pressure is higher than
normal. .



I just noticed that the carpeting is completely soaked, and there's
mold growing in the carpet. I'm pretty sure it's not leaking from
anywhere, so I have to assume the T&P relief valve is doing its thing.

There's no drain anywhere near the heater. Is there another
alternative to placing a bucket under the drain tube?


Put a bucket under it to be sure that is where the water is coming from.



--
113 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Unlike biological evolution. 'intelligent design' is
not a genuine scientific theory and, therefore, has
no place in the curriculum of our nation's public
school classes." -- Ted Kennedy

"David" wrote in message
ups.com...

Thanks for all the quick advice, everyone. I was going by the manual
for the heater (GH Wood Series Pro model JW525, which appears to have
an 8-year warranty), which suggests that periodic opening of the T&P
valve is normal.

It is not normal for it to do so by itself. It should be tested manually
once or twice a year, and that is probably what the manual meant.

There is something wrong, and it needs attention now. When water heaters
explode, they make quite a mess.


The pressure could be a problem. I had a PEX joint start to leak
about a year ago, and the plumber (who didn't have a pressure gauge)
turned down the pressure regulator at the main shutoff (it was wide
open). Perhaps it needs to be turned down even further.


You can get such a meter at the local hardware store for $10. Normal is
50-80 psi.

The pressure could be a problem. I had a PEX joint start to leak
about a year ago, and the plumber (who didn't have a pressure gauge)
turned down the pressure regulator at the main shutoff (it was wide
open). Perhaps it needs to be turned down even further.

Just don't call the plumber who adjusted the pressure regulator without
having a pressure gauge. Amazing.

Pressure regulators are generally also backflow preventors; they stop all
water from flowing back past it.
When the water heater comes on it will cause the water to expand, which will
increase the pressure in the system.
It can get high enough to cause the T&P valve to go. That is what everyone
is talking about.
An expansion tank will absorb the extra volume and stop the pressure from
going up.

I can only go by my own experience. I installed a pressure regulator to get
my pressure down from 90psi to 55psi.
I then let the water heater cool off, and turned it up high. I figured that
was the worst case senerio. My pressure only went from 55 to 85. I tried it
again and concluded I didn't need an expansion tank. I don't know why other
people do.
BTW, my pressure regulator will allow backflow, but that feature clogs up
and can't be counted on.

"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 21:21:55 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"David" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have with my
water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P relief
valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..


The one in my house has a copper tube going up along the vent (for gas
fumes) and draining on the roof, near the chimney.


Which is against code, if you live in an area where the outdoor temps fall
below freezing.
But, it's still not smart, unless there's a way for you to know whether it's
dripping or not.

"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
et...


As for where to drain the discharge, some jurisdictions
will permit discharge to open air outside (pipe thru wall).


Unless, it's subject to freezing conditions.

Thanks once again for all the info, everyone.

Update: I've cut/torn out as much carpet and underlay as I could from
around the heater, and I should be able to 'tip' the heater enough
(with the assistance of a friend) tomorrow to get the remainder of the
junk out from underneath it. The heater will then be sitting on the
concrete foundation - which should make the tracking of water leaks
somewhat easier.

After running a dishwasher load and washing machine load at the same
time, it doesn't appear the T&P relief valve is letting go after all.
There was nothing in the jug I placed below the drain tube.

So...now I'm wondering just where the water may have came from. My
wife (who is short on technical knowledge but pretty good in the
common sense department) suggested the heavy rainstorm we had a few
days ago might've had something to do with it. Of course, the
foundation is behind drywall...

I went so far as to remove the two access plates for the thermostats/
elements. No apparent signs of leakage, nor are there any signs of
corrosion at all. The tank looks new.

I've currently got a dehumidifier stuck in the closet where the water
heater is. I'll let it dry out nicely, get the remainder of the
carpet and underlay out of there tomorrow, and then play the waiting
game to see if water reappears. We've got a rain-free forecast for
the next 5 days, so if anything appears near the water heater, it'll
have to be coming from the tank.

I hate this crap. Give me a radar to fix anyday.

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 21:21:55 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"David" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have with
my water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P
relief valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..


The one in my house has a copper tube going up along the vent (for gas
fumes) and draining on the roof, near the chimney.


Which is against code, if you live in an area where the outdoor temps
fall below freezing.
But, it's still not smart, unless there's a way for you to know whether
it's dripping or not.


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!

Obviously you have no conception of the purpose of a temperature and
pressure relief valve.

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
et...


As for where to drain the discharge, some jurisdictions
will permit discharge to open air outside (pipe thru wall).


Unless, it's subject to freezing conditions.

What on earth would freezing conditions have to do with 180-degree water?

HeyBub wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
et...


As for where to drain the discharge, some jurisdictions
will permit discharge to open air outside (pipe thru wall).

Unless, it's subject to freezing conditions.

What on earth would freezing conditions have to do with 180-degree water?


Suppose there is a slight leak from the valve and the discharge is
outside. The outside portion could become blocked with ice. If the T&P
valve should really have to do its job it can't because of the ice jam.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P relief
valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..


Probably highr than 98%.

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:2f5cc$46dce122$9440c41e$10717
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 21:21:55 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"David" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have
with
my water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P
relief valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..


The one in my house has a copper tube going up along the vent (for
gas
fumes) and draining on the roof, near the chimney.


Which is against code, if you live in an area where the outdoor temps
fall below freezing.
But, it's still not smart, unless there's a way for you to know
whether
it's dripping or not.


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!


My point stands whether you like it or not. Corrosion and valve failure
are
concerns whether or not there is a potential for freezing weather.
Remember
context.


My point is also a fact, Bozo.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!

Obviously you have no conception of the purpose of a temperature and
pressure relief valve.


I'm the one who posted *not* to run them outside in freezing temps.
Not once, but a few times in this thread. And I was also the *first* one to
post it.

Clark is just a pet that's been following me around for a few weeks.

Try and keep up!

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
et...


As for where to drain the discharge, some jurisdictions
will permit discharge to open air outside (pipe thru wall).


Unless, it's subject to freezing conditions.

What on earth would freezing conditions have to do with 180-degree water?


Oh my, you don't see the reason not to do it...

Try this for one, "because it's against code"!!!

What do you think is going to happen to a slow drip in freezing
conditions?????

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!

Obviously you have no conception of the purpose of a temperature and
pressure relief valve.


You obviously don't know anything about them or the codes that pertain to
them.

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!

Obviously you have no conception of the purpose of a temperature and
pressure relief valve.


You obviously don't know anything about them or the codes that
pertain to them.

Sigh:

"IRC P2803.6.1 Requirements of discharge pipe. The outlet of a pressure
relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination thereof, shall not be
directly connected to the drainage system. The discharge from the relief
valve shall be piped full size separately to the floor, to the outside of
the building or to an indirect waste receptor located inside the building."

Here's why:

"People don't like to test their T&Ps. But then, we don't think it's so much
fun to wake up in the hospital, or to patch a big hole in the roof, either.
When water heaters explode, it's catastrophic. People are injured or die;
buildings are severely damaged. Test your T&Ps! And one more thing: T&P
drain lines should go down and out. Never up. If the valve opens, water will
pool there and corrode it shut. Or freeze in the line in colder climes.
We've seen lines plumbed uphill so many times we've lost count. But there
SHOULD be a drain line, usually to within about six inches of the floor, or
plumbed outside. That's code around here [California]. It's to prevent you
from being scalded if the valve should open while you're standing next to
it."

It is the White Man's Burden to enlighten the benighted. I'm glad I was able
to assist you.

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!

Obviously you have no conception of the purpose of a temperature and
pressure relief valve.


You obviously don't know anything about them or the codes that
pertain to them.

"IRC P2803.6.1 Requirements of discharge pipe. The outlet of a pressure
relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination thereof, shall not be
directly connected to the drainage system. The discharge from the relief
valve shall be piped full size separately to the floor, to the outside of
the building or to an indirect waste receptor located inside the building."

Clark wrote:

It is the White Man's Burden to enlighten the benighted. I'm glad I
was able to assist you.


I'm about to decide that all kj has to offer is abuse, antagonism,
and an obsessive/compulsive disorder but I admire your attempt to
educate him.

Thank you. It's nobless oblige, to those to whom much is given, much is
expected.

"Clark" wrote in message
...

Got it?


I got that you're a dickhead along time ago.

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 11:03:30 +0000, Clark wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:2f5cc$46dce122$9440c41e$10717
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 21:21:55 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"David" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have
with
my water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago
failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P
relief valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..


The one in my house has a copper tube going up along the vent (for
gas
fumes) and draining on the roof, near the chimney.


Which is against code, if you live in an area where the outdoor
temps
fall below freezing.
But, it's still not smart, unless there's a way for you to know
whether
it's dripping or not.


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!


My point stands whether you like it or not. Corrosion and valve failure
are
concerns whether or not there is a potential for freezing weather.
Remember
context.

Kjblow is so eager to fabricate faults and inaccuracies he often takes
the dialog out of context.


Looking for a treat tonight?

"Clark" wrote in message
...
Meat Plow wrote in
:

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 11:03:30 +0000, Clark wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:2f5cc$46dce122$9440c41e$10717
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 21:21:55 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"David" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have
with my water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years
ago failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the
T&P relief valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..


The one in my house has a copper tube going up along the vent (for
gas fumes) and draining on the roof, near the chimney.


Which is against code, if you live in an area where the outdoor
temps fall below freezing.
But, it's still not smart, unless there's a way for you to know
whether it's dripping or not.


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!


My point stands whether you like it or not. Corrosion and valve failure
are concerns whether or not there is a potential for freezing weather.
Remember context.

Kjblow is so eager to fabricate faults and inaccuracies he often takes
the dialog out of context.


Yup. He's just a dancing monkey boi.


At least I'm not a part of the faggot group.

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 19:01:52 +0000, Clark wrote:

Meat Plow wrote in
:

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 11:03:30 +0000, Clark wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:2f5cc$46dce122$9440c41e$10717
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 21:21:55 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"

wrote:


"David" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have
with my water heater.

It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years
ago failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the
T&P relief valve can safely dump water to a drain.

About 98% of them are installed that way..


The one in my house has a copper tube going up along the vent
(for
gas fumes) and draining on the roof, near the chimney.


Which is against code, if you live in an area where the outdoor
temps fall below freezing.
But, it's still not smart, unless there's a way for you to know
whether it's dripping or not.


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!


My point stands whether you like it or not. Corrosion and valve
failure
are concerns whether or not there is a potential for freezing weather.
Remember context.

Kjblow is so eager to fabricate faults and inaccuracies he often takes
the dialog out of context.


Yup. He's just a dancing monkey boi.

This was written just for him.


This was written just for you...

"Can't fix stupid"

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!

Obviously you have no conception of the purpose of a temperature and
pressure relief valve.


You obviously don't know anything about them or the codes that
pertain to them.

Sigh:

"IRC P2803.6.1 Requirements of discharge pipe. The outlet of a pressure
relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination thereof, shall not
be
directly connected to the drainage system. The discharge from the relief
valve shall be piped full size separately to the floor, to the outside of
the building or to an indirect waste receptor located inside the
building."

Here's why:

"People don't like to test their T&Ps. But then, we don't think it's so
much
fun to wake up in the hospital, or to patch a big hole in the roof,
either.
When water heaters explode, it's catastrophic. People are injured or die;
buildings are severely damaged. Test your T&Ps! And one more thing: T&P
drain lines should go down and out. Never up. If the valve opens, water
will
pool there and corrode it shut. Or freeze in the line in colder climes.
We've seen lines plumbed uphill so many times we've lost count. But there
SHOULD be a drain line, usually to within about six inches of the floor,
or
plumbed outside. That's code around here [California]. It's to prevent you
from being scalded if the valve should open while you're standing next to
it."

It is the White Man's Burden to enlighten the benighted. I'm glad I was
able
to assist you.


No assistance needed, I already knew that.

You're the one who was questioning "why not run it outside to freezing
conditions", Bozo!

"Clark" wrote in message
...

I admire your attempt to educate him.


First, you would have to know something I don't.

Good luck with that...

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!

Obviously you have no conception of the purpose of a temperature and
pressure relief valve.


You obviously don't know anything about them or the codes that
pertain to them.

"IRC P2803.6.1 Requirements of discharge pipe.


So why was you questioning my post?
Or did you not see I was playing with my pet (Clark)?

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:6d266$46de17da$9440c41e$14170
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...

Got it?


I got that you're a dickhead along time ago.


Wow. Interesting response to having your bad advise exposed once again.
Some
folks would be smart enough to go away. You on the other hand want to
stick
around and wallow in your incompetence.


All of the incompetence is coming from your end, Boy.

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:b085c$46de1937$9440c41e$14444
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...

I admire your attempt to educate him.


First, you would have to know something I don't.

Do you mean maybe knowing that local building authority has total control
over building code? Do you mean knowing that T&P drains should never go up
regardless of whether freezing is possible? Do you mean knowing the
difference between affect and effect? Do you mean knowing the difference
between mute and moot? Do you mean knowing that liquid lines don't sweat?


Do you ever win an argument?
Cause, it's sure not happening here.


Good luck with that...

Don't need luck in dealing with you, dancing monkey boi.


How's your boyfriend tonight?

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:e3b7a$46de1933$9440c41e$14444
@STARBAND.NET:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!

Obviously you have no conception of the purpose of a temperature and
pressure relief valve.


You obviously don't know anything about them or the codes that
pertain to them.

Sigh:

"IRC P2803.6.1 Requirements of discharge pipe. The outlet of a pressure
relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination thereof, shall
not
be
directly connected to the drainage system. The discharge from the
relief
valve shall be piped full size separately to the floor, to the outside
of
the building or to an indirect waste receptor located inside the
building."

Here's why:

"People don't like to test their T&Ps. But then, we don't think it's so
much
fun to wake up in the hospital, or to patch a big hole in the roof,
either.
When water heaters explode, it's catastrophic. People are injured or
die;
buildings are severely damaged. Test your T&Ps! And one more thing: T&P
drain lines should go down and out. Never up. If the valve opens, water
will
pool there and corrode it shut. Or freeze in the line in colder climes.
We've seen lines plumbed uphill so many times we've lost count. But
there
SHOULD be a drain line, usually to within about six inches of the
floor,
or
plumbed outside. That's code around here [California]. It's to prevent
you
from being scalded if the valve should open while you're standing next
to
it."

It is the White Man's Burden to enlighten the benighted. I'm glad I was
able
to assist you.


No assistance needed, I already knew that.

No you didn't.


I posted about it (first), Duh!

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:9f20a$46de2e24$9440c41e$18338
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:6d266$46de17da$9440c41e$14170
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...

Got it?


I got that you're a dickhead along time ago.


Wow. Interesting response to having your bad advise exposed once again.
Some
folks would be smart enough to go away. You on the other hand want to
stick
around and wallow in your incompetence.


All of the incompetence is coming from your end, Boy.

Liquid lines sweat? Local authority can't relax standards from model code?


LL can sweat under the right conditions... if you say otherwise, you need
further training in HVAC.
No surprise there...
Local codes *do not* override manufacture's installation instruction,
Dip****!


Do you want me to go on?


Sure, but next time please post something that's factual.

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:11566$46de2e7c$9440c41e$18377
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:b085c$46de1937$9440c41e$14444
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...

I admire your attempt to educate him.


First, you would have to know something I don't.

Do you mean maybe knowing that local building authority has total
control
over building code? Do you mean knowing that T&P drains should never go
up
regardless of whether freezing is possible? Do you mean knowing the
difference between affect and effect? Do you mean knowing the
difference
between mute and moot? Do you mean knowing that liquid lines don't
sweat?


Do you ever win an argument?
Cause, it's sure not happening here.


Good luck with that...

Don't need luck in dealing with you, dancing monkey boi.


How's your boyfriend tonight?

Dance, boi, dance.


Looking for a treat?
Ask your butt buddy "meat plow" for one.

"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:44b66$46de2eb2$9440c41e$18380
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:e3b7a$46de1933$9440c41e$14444
@STARBAND.NET:


"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter


Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather...
Idiot!

Obviously you have no conception of the purpose of a temperature
and
pressure relief valve.


You obviously don't know anything about them or the codes that
pertain to them.

Sigh:

"IRC P2803.6.1 Requirements of discharge pipe. The outlet of a
pressure
relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination thereof, shall
not
be
directly connected to the drainage system. The discharge from the
relief
valve shall be piped full size separately to the floor, to the
outside
of
the building or to an indirect waste receptor located inside the
building."

Here's why:

"People don't like to test their T&Ps. But then, we don't think it's
so
much
fun to wake up in the hospital, or to patch a big hole in the roof,
either.
When water heaters explode, it's catastrophic. People are injured or
die;
buildings are severely damaged. Test your T&Ps! And one more thing:
T&P
drain lines should go down and out. Never up. If the valve opens,
water
will
pool there and corrode it shut. Or freeze in the line in colder
climes.
We've seen lines plumbed uphill so many times we've lost count. But
there
SHOULD be a drain line, usually to within about six inches of the
floor,
or
plumbed outside. That's code around here [California]. It's to
prevent
you
from being scalded if the valve should open while you're standing
next
to
it."

It is the White Man's Burden to enlighten the benighted. I'm glad I
was
able
to assist you.


No assistance needed, I already knew that.

No you didn't.


I posted about it (first), Duh!

Your lies don't cut it. HeyBub's post clearly shows that your claims
weren't true. Got it, boi?


My lies? You mean your bull****?
Heybub on the other hand, couldn't even understand that I was merely playing
with my pet and was be sarcastic.


Just remember to keep dancing monkey boi.


It's not called dancing, it's pointing out your inaccurate bull****.