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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Heating Relief Valve and Motorised Valve - Bit Long
Hi Guys
Following issues with air locking, I decided to uncover the motorised valve for the heating system (S Plan). This has been boxed in in the corner of the dining room (formerly the kitchen), with the boiler and pump being moved to the other side of the same wall into the kitchen extension. Having had problems with pump over etc, I suspected that the CH valve could be at fault. I am now faced with other questions. 1. When I push the lever manually to operate the valve, the lever is slack for half the travel. The resistance is then felt and the familiar whirring is heard. Is it usual for there to be a lot of slack before the valve internals move? If I push hard to make the valve open quickly, a rougher sound is heard. In normal operation, it sounds smooth and fine although last year some ominous graunching? sounds appeared to come from this location. The valve is captive in a long(ish) vertical leg with tees etc. so I presume the only way to remove this will be to cut it out due to compressions ends and pipe engagement? Is it possible to replace the internals in situ (the valve body and motor are flat to the wall and between pipes!)? 2. I have found what I think is a relief valve - teed off from flow line about 40mm long screwed, circumferential holes about half way along and a screwed cap. Broggling in one of the holes I feel/hear what may be a spring. The thing is that this is on the flow side from the boiler *after* the heating zone valve. The boiler is GlowWorm Space Saver 50. Assuming this is a relief valve, does its position make the installation unsafe? There is an open vent to the header tank as well (hence pump over mentioned earlier). 3. Is there a recommended (or mandatory) distance from the boiler that pipework must be run in copper? I am considering increasing the mains size to 22mm for upstairs rads and might take the plastic option. TIA Phil |
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TheScullster wrote:
3. Is there a recommended (or mandatory) distance from the boiler that pipework must be run in copper? I am considering increasing the mains size to 22mm for upstairs rads and might take the plastic option. The usual recommendation is to use copper for at least the first meter of pipe to/from the boiler. You can go to plastic after that. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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