Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?

Thx,
P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...

Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?


Check the Mag web page as they have repair information there, as well as
where to send it for warranty repairs.

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...

Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?


If you find out, let me know. I got one just like it. One of these days,
I'll completely disassemble it, and find out. I think that some electrical
goop on the threads helps to counteract the oxidation. Maybe even a little
brushing with a small wire brush. I mean there's only a few parts in there.

Steve

factoid: in the base of each light under the spring, in a plastic thingus,
there's an extra bulb.

Puddin' Man wrote in
:


Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?

No signs of battery leakage inside the tube?
(vinegar works good for removing alkaline battery leakage)
When you remove the front bell to replace the bulb,does the black plastic
part spring up and can it be pressed down and spring back when released?
That is how the lamp gets turned on.

it's common for the bulb filament to deposit a black film inside the
bulb,reducing light output.

I installed a Nite-Ize LED mod on my AA Maglite,and a tailcap switch,too.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Aug 27, 10:46 am, Jim Yanik wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote :



Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?

No signs of battery leakage inside the tube?
(vinegar works good for removing alkaline battery leakage)
When you remove the front bell to replace the bulb,does the black plastic
part spring up and can it be pressed down and spring back when released?
That is how the lamp gets turned on.

it's common for the bulb filament to deposit a black film inside the
bulb,reducing light output.

I installed a Nite-Ize LED mod on my AA Maglite,and a tailcap switch,too.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Dont they have a lifetime warranty, send it in.

On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 10:19:46 -0700, "SteveB" wrote:


"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
.. .

Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?


If you find out, let me know. I got one just like it. One of these days,
I'll completely disassemble it, and find out.

I've been thru everything but the switch which requires a special tool ...

I think that some electrical
goop on the threads helps to counteract the oxidation. Maybe even a little
brushing with a small wire brush. I mean there's only a few parts in there.

I brushed, I lubed, etc etc.

The gal at Mag svc. (800 283 5562) promised a new switch/tool, maybe 2 weeks,
no cost, didn't ask about warranty info. I dunno what else it could be.

P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:8oDAi.5691$ai3.3850@trndny03...

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...

Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?


Check the Mag web page as they have repair information there, as well as
where to send it for warranty repairs.
Warranty is rather meaningless, since shipping cost is close to the cost of
a replacement unit. My first Maglite cost 40 bucks at a gun shop. Ten years
later, after that one got stolen, the replacement cost about half that (and
it showed) from a 'regular' big-box store.
In the old days Zippo lighters used to have a similar warranty- they would
just stuff new guts in and send it back.
aem sends...

On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 12:42:34 -0700, ransley wrote:

On Aug 27, 10:46 am, Jim Yanik wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote :



Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?

No signs of battery leakage inside the tube?
(vinegar works good for removing alkaline battery leakage)
When you remove the front bell to replace the bulb,does the black plastic
part spring up and can it be pressed down and spring back when released?
That is how the lamp gets turned on.

it's common for the bulb filament to deposit a black film inside the
bulb,reducing light output.

I installed a Nite-Ize LED mod on my AA Maglite,and a tailcap switch,too.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Dont they have a lifetime warranty, send it in.

B'damn, they do!

From http://www.maglite.com/productline.asp:
"Limited Lifetime Warranty in the Western Hemisphere and Japan; Ten-
Year Limited Warranty Elsewhere."

Try 800 283 5562.

P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

Do you know where I can get a new lens for a 3 D cell model? Every
place I have found want to ship it priority mail for $5. This is for
a $1 part.

Go to a plastic shop , buy a small piece and cut your own

On Aug 27, 11:04 am, Puddin' Man wrote:
Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?

Thx,
P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

The highest resistance is at the butt-end. Between the screw-cap and
body, and screw-cap and spring. Anodizing is not your best conductor!

"Rudy" wrote:


Do you know where I can get a new lens for a 3 D cell model? Every
place I have found want to ship it priority mail for $5. This is for
a $1 part.

Go to a plastic shop , buy a small piece and cut your own

For some reason, I had not even thought of that. It would take me a
little time but I may very well do it.
--
Jim Rusling
More or Less Retired
Mustang, OK
http://www.rusling.org

on 8/28/2007 7:36 AM Jim Rusling said the following:
"Rudy" wrote:


Do you know where I can get a new lens for a 3 D cell model? Every
place I have found want to ship it priority mail for $5. This is for
a $1 part.

Go to a plastic shop , buy a small piece and cut your own


For some reason, I had not even thought of that. It would take me a
little time but I may very well do it.

Every time you go shopping, you bring home items packaged in clear
plastic. Just cut out a piece from that. It may be thinner, but so what?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

In article . com,
wrote:

On Aug 27, 11:04 am, Puddin' Man wrote:
Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?

Thx,
P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

The highest resistance is at the butt-end. Between the screw-cap and
body, and screw-cap and spring. Anodizing is not your best conductor!

I can't speak for *your* mini-mag, or that of the OP, but none of mine
are anodized there.

all maglites are anodized. Unless they made something in the dark ages that
were just painted or something.

s


"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
I can't speak for *your* mini-mag, or that of the OP, but none of mine
are anodized there.

Puddin' Man wrote:
Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?

Thx,
P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller
Hi,
Probably problem with switch. Time to replace?

In article ,
"Steve Barker LT" wrote:

all maglites are anodized. Unless they made something in the dark ages that
were just painted or something.

s


"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
I can't speak for *your* mini-mag, or that of the OP, but none of mine
are anodized there.

The anodizing, my top-posting friend, is on the *outside.* The threads
on the back cap and the contact area for the spring are *not* anodized.

YO, old Smitty, my bottom posting friend. You are absolutely right. I had
never looked. I had to take mine apart to realize that.


steve


"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Steve Barker LT" wrote:

all maglites are anodized. Unless they made something in the dark ages
that
were just painted or something.

s


"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
I can't speak for *your* mini-mag, or that of the OP, but none of mine
are anodized there.

The anodizing, my top-posting friend, is on the *outside.* The threads
on the back cap and the contact area for the spring are *not* anodized.

Smitty Two wrote:
"Steve Barker LT" wrote:

all maglites are anodized. Unless they made something in the dark ages that
were just painted or something.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
I can't speak for *your* mini-mag, or that of the OP, but none of mine
are anodized there.

The anodizing, my top-posting friend, is on the *outside.* The threads
on the back cap and the contact area for the spring are *not* anodized.

That said, the contact between the end cap and body is still the worst
connection on the whole flashlight.

--
Tiger Direct forcibly checking receipts?
http://tinyurl.com/2hz3ht

"Jim Rusling" wrote in message
g...
"Rudy" wrote:


Do you know where I can get a new lens for a 3 D cell model?

Do you know what one of those LONG 4 or 6 D cell units are used for? My
daughter used to carry it (she's a PO) but went to a smaller LED. She gave
it to me, and it's such a log, it ain't worth a crap for anything. I know
they're good for smackin perps, but now they got pepper spray and tasers and
snap batons. It's just a big expensive piece of crud in my estimation.

Steve

In article ,
clifto wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
"Steve Barker LT" wrote:

all maglites are anodized. Unless they made something in the dark ages
that
were just painted or something.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news I can't speak for *your* mini-mag, or that of the OP, but none of mine
are anodized there.

The anodizing, my top-posting friend, is on the *outside.* The threads
on the back cap and the contact area for the spring are *not* anodized.

That said, the contact between the end cap and body is still the worst
connection on the whole flashlight.

Not to be too pedantic, here, but could you elaborate? What's so bad
about it? The only thing I can think of is maybe some looseness in the
thread, but given the total thread area and the trivial current carrying
requirements, it seems fine. I've never had any trouble with any size of
maglite.

"SteveB" wrote:


"Jim Rusling" wrote in message
rg...
"Rudy" wrote:


Do you know where I can get a new lens for a 3 D cell model?

Do you know what one of those LONG 4 or 6 D cell units are used for? My
daughter used to carry it (she's a PO) but went to a smaller LED. She gave
it to me, and it's such a log, it ain't worth a crap for anything. I know
they're good for smackin perps, but now they got pepper spray and tasers and
snap batons. It's just a big expensive piece of crud in my estimation.

Steve

I have a couple of 3 Watt LED's. They are good but they will go
through a set of batteries in about 4 hours. I have put a LED in the
Maglight and it works just as good as a regular bulb. It will also go
about 35 to 40 hours on one set of batteries. It is also handy as a
club.
--
Jim Rusling
More or Less Retired
Mustang, OK
http://www.rusling.org

Jim Rusling wrote in
g:

I have a couple of 3 Watt LED's. They are good but they will go
through a set of batteries in about 4 hours.

The AA version or the C or D cell versions?

I have put a LED in the
Maglight and it works just as good as a regular bulb. It will also go
about 35 to 40 hours on one set of batteries. It is also handy as a
club.

I put a 3-LED Nite-ize mod in my 2AA Maglite.
It's pretty good on batteries,and it gives a white light instead of the
incandescent's yellow.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Smitty Two wrote:
clifto wrote:
That said, the contact between the end cap and body is still the worst
connection on the whole flashlight.

Not to be too pedantic, here, but could you elaborate? What's so bad
about it? The only thing I can think of is maybe some looseness in the
thread, but given the total thread area and the trivial current carrying
requirements, it seems fine. I've never had any trouble with any size of
maglite.

With my two, and colleagues' dozen or so, I've had to constantly clean and
lubricate the screw threads on both the end cap and body. Second worst
contact is between the press-in spring and the end cap, and that one
needs constant attention as well. It's not looseness. I haven't figured
out exactly what the problem is; I only know that cleaning and lubing
the end cap works.

With yours turned on, try unscrewing the end cap a full turn. Observe
that there should be an awful lot of actual contact area between the
few complete turns of spiral screw thread on the end cap and the same
on the body. There should be at least 1/2 a square millimeter touching
at some point along all that. Yet, as you'll probably see, the light
goes on and off as you turn. If something weren't wrong there, I would
believe it would be really difficult to be able to break contact between
the battery negative end and the body of the light; it should be difficult.
The only units I've ever seen that would remain lit were brand new.
Even when my latest was one week old, the light would go on and off
when I loosened the end cap.

--
Tiger Direct forcibly checking receipts?
http://tinyurl.com/2hz3ht

clifto wrote in
news
Smitty Two wrote:
clifto wrote:
That said, the contact between the end cap and body is still the
worst connection on the whole flashlight.

Not to be too pedantic, here, but could you elaborate? What's so bad
about it? The only thing I can think of is maybe some looseness in
the thread, but given the total thread area and the trivial current
carrying requirements, it seems fine. I've never had any trouble with
any size of maglite.

With my two, and colleagues' dozen or so, I've had to constantly clean
and lubricate the screw threads on both the end cap and body.

Why? have you lost the O rings?

Second
worst contact is between the press-in spring and the end cap, and that
one needs constant attention as well. It's not looseness. I haven't
figured out exactly what the problem is; I only know that cleaning and
lubing the end cap works.

With yours turned on, try unscrewing the end cap a full turn. Observe
that there should be an awful lot of actual contact area between the
few complete turns of spiral screw thread on the end cap and the same
on the body. There should be at least 1/2 a square millimeter touching
at some point along all that. Yet, as you'll probably see, the light
goes on and off as you turn. If something weren't wrong there, I would
believe it would be really difficult to be able to break contact
between the battery negative end and the body of the light; it should
be difficult. The only units I've ever seen that would remain lit were
brand new. Even when my latest was one week old, the light would go on
and off when I loosened the end cap.


I've never had any problem with my 2AA Maglite.Over 10 years of use.

AFAIK,loosening the end(tail)cap is not included in the normal operation of
a Maglite. IE;not a valid operating mode.
Thus,any intermittent problems in that "mode" are not relevant.
*It's supposed to be tight.* (except when you are changing batteries)



Maybe you should get some Permatex anti-seize lubricant.(any auto store)
It's made for use on aluminum,and is loaded with graphite and aluminum so
it has excellent electrical conductivity.Good up to 1600 degF.It prevents
galling,too.

Kinda messy,though,if you're gonna be constantly unscrewing the tailcap.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

In article ,
clifto wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
clifto wrote:
That said, the contact between the end cap and body is still the worst
connection on the whole flashlight.

Not to be too pedantic, here, but could you elaborate? What's so bad
about it? The only thing I can think of is maybe some looseness in the
thread, but given the total thread area and the trivial current carrying
requirements, it seems fine. I've never had any trouble with any size of
maglite.

With my two, and colleagues' dozen or so, I've had to constantly clean and
lubricate the screw threads on both the end cap and body. Second worst
contact is between the press-in spring and the end cap, and that one
needs constant attention as well. It's not looseness. I haven't figured
out exactly what the problem is; I only know that cleaning and lubing
the end cap works.

With yours turned on, try unscrewing the end cap a full turn. Observe
that there should be an awful lot of actual contact area between the
few complete turns of spiral screw thread on the end cap and the same
on the body. There should be at least 1/2 a square millimeter touching
at some point along all that. Yet, as you'll probably see, the light
goes on and off as you turn. If something weren't wrong there, I would
believe it would be really difficult to be able to break contact between
the battery negative end and the body of the light; it should be difficult.
The only units I've ever seen that would remain lit were brand new.
Even when my latest was one week old, the light would go on and off
when I loosened the end cap.

OK, finally got back to this. I have four AA mini-mags and one AAA
mini-mag. None of them exhibit this symptom. They all stay lit
consistently until the very last thread disengages. I rely on these
flashlights frequently and have never, ever, had any kind of reliability
issue, and have never had to do any maintenance to them.

I also checked my two 3-cell D-cell mags. They have anodized threads and
a non-anodized contact circle between the end cap and the body, so they
*do* need to be snug to work.

Apparently you and your colleagues are working in some sort of corrosive
environment, or perhaps the lube you're using is corrosive to aluminum?

Smitty Two wrote in
news
In article ,
clifto wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
clifto wrote:
That said, the contact between the end cap and body is still the
worst connection on the whole flashlight.

Not to be too pedantic, here, but could you elaborate? What's so
bad about it? The only thing I can think of is maybe some looseness
in the thread, but given the total thread area and the trivial
current carrying requirements, it seems fine. I've never had any
trouble with any size of maglite.

With my two, and colleagues' dozen or so, I've had to constantly
clean and lubricate the screw threads on both the end cap and body.
Second worst contact is between the press-in spring and the end cap,
and that one needs constant attention as well. It's not looseness. I
haven't figured out exactly what the problem is; I only know that
cleaning and lubing the end cap works.

With yours turned on, try unscrewing the end cap a full turn. Observe
that there should be an awful lot of actual contact area between the
few complete turns of spiral screw thread on the end cap and the same
on the body. There should be at least 1/2 a square millimeter
touching at some point along all that. Yet, as you'll probably see,
the light goes on and off as you turn. If something weren't wrong
there, I would believe it would be really difficult to be able to
break contact between the battery negative end and the body of the
light; it should be difficult. The only units I've ever seen that
would remain lit were brand new. Even when my latest was one week
old, the light would go on and off when I loosened the end cap.

OK, finally got back to this. I have four AA mini-mags and one AAA
mini-mag. None of them exhibit this symptom. They all stay lit
consistently until the very last thread disengages.

Use of the light while unscrewing the tailcap is *not an operational mode*.
Who CARES if it works or not when you're unscrewing the tailcap?
NO one USES it that way.

I rely on these
flashlights frequently and have never, ever, had any kind of
reliability issue, and have never had to do any maintenance to them.

I also checked my two 3-cell D-cell mags. They have anodized threads
and a non-anodized contact circle between the end cap and the body, so
they *do* need to be snug to work.

that is the way they ALL are INTENDED to be used.
With the tailcap tight.

Would anyone here expect a 120VAC power outlet to work properly with the
screws for the supply wires loose? I hope not.


Apparently you and your colleagues are working in some sort of
corrosive environment, or perhaps the lube you're using is corrosive
to aluminum?


THAT's their problem;they let the insides get corroded,probably from no O-
ring,and/or immersing their Maglite.(or leaving the tail cap LOOSE....)

Once corrosion begins,you HAVE to clean it ALL off and remove ALL of what
CAUSED it.

Of course,*Duracell* alkaline batteries leak more often than other
brands,I've found.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

In article ,
Jim Yanik wrote:

some snipping ...


Use of the light while unscrewing the tailcap is *not an operational mode*.
Who CARES if it works or not when you're unscrewing the tailcap?
NO one USES it that way.

I certainly agree with you on that score, however... The topic was
whether the tailcap to body electrical connection was a design weakness.
Clifto and I seemed to be in agreement that one *indicator* of that was
how reliable that connection remained as the thread contact area was
reduced. Clearly his test results and mine differ, leaving the matter
somewhat unsettled.





Apparently you and your colleagues are working in some sort of
corrosive environment, or perhaps the lube you're using is corrosive
to aluminum?


THAT's their problem;they let the insides get corroded,probably from no O-
ring,and/or immersing their Maglite.(or leaving the tail cap LOOSE....)


Maybe so.

Smitty Two wrote:
clifto wrote:
Even when my latest was one week old, the light would go on and off
when I loosened the end cap.

OK, finally got back to this. I have four AA mini-mags and one AAA
mini-mag. None of them exhibit this symptom. They all stay lit
consistently until the very last thread disengages. I rely on these
flashlights frequently and have never, ever, had any kind of reliability
issue, and have never had to do any maintenance to them.

Haven't had much experience with that size. I have one somewhere, I bet
it works passably well (*possibly* after messing with the end cap).

I also checked my two 3-cell D-cell mags. They have anodized threads and
a non-anodized contact circle between the end cap and the body, so they
*do* need to be snug to work.

Those are the ones we used most often. There was the occasional 3C or 4D
or 2D, but the 3D were the workhorses.

Apparently you and your colleagues are working in some sort of corrosive
environment, or perhaps the lube you're using is corrosive to aluminum?

No to both. As I mentioned, even the factory-new lights were intermittent
in a week or so. I've tried Singer Sewing Machine Lubricant (light grease)
and DeOxit pretty much exclusively.

None of this is to imply that I would ever stop being a repeat purchaser
of MagLite. But I buy 'em warts and all.

--
If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming,
you should stop exhaling.

In article ,
clifto wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
clifto wrote:
Even when my latest was one week old, the light would go on and off
when I loosened the end cap.

OK, finally got back to this. I have four AA mini-mags and one AAA
mini-mag. None of them exhibit this symptom. They all stay lit
consistently until the very last thread disengages. I rely on these
flashlights frequently and have never, ever, had any kind of reliability
issue, and have never had to do any maintenance to them.

Haven't had much experience with that size. I have one somewhere, I bet
it works passably well (*possibly* after messing with the end cap).

I also checked my two 3-cell D-cell mags. They have anodized threads and
a non-anodized contact circle between the end cap and the body, so they
*do* need to be snug to work.

Those are the ones we used most often. There was the occasional 3C or 4D
or 2D, but the 3D were the workhorses.

Apparently you and your colleagues are working in some sort of corrosive
environment, or perhaps the lube you're using is corrosive to aluminum?

No to both. As I mentioned, even the factory-new lights were intermittent
in a week or so. I've tried Singer Sewing Machine Lubricant (light grease)
and DeOxit pretty much exclusively.

None of this is to imply that I would ever stop being a repeat purchaser
of MagLite. But I buy 'em warts and all.

AH! Well, my mistake. I misunderstood you. The Big Daddy Mags seem to
have anodized threads, so of course the end caps have to be snug! The
little guys have naked aluminum male and female threads.

Still, I'm surprised that you've had so many intermittents. The design
and manufacturing quality of the mags has always been exemplary. Glad
you aren't giving up on them.

Smitty Two wrote:
Still, I'm surprised that you've had so many intermittents. The design
and manufacturing quality of the mags has always been exemplary. Glad
you aren't giving up on them.

The rubber plugs that waterproof the switches fall out, too. But I still
haven't found a more durable flashlight..

--
If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming,
you should stop exhaling.

"clifto" wrote in message
...
Smitty Two wrote:
Still, I'm surprised that you've had so many intermittents. The design
and manufacturing quality of the mags has always been exemplary. Glad
you aren't giving up on them.

The rubber plugs that waterproof the switches fall out, too. But I still
haven't found a more durable flashlight..

Eh. I still like mine, and would buy another. But I think they decontented
them when they went mass-market. QC definitely went down. I've had to
field-strip my most recent one (4D) to clean the switch and retension the
top battery spring, a couple of times. (There are setscrews under that
rubber switch boot, that enable you to pull the 'puck' that holds the
switch, out of the barrel.

aem sends...

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 09:09:36 -0400, "Stormin Mormon \(on backup computer\)"
wrote:

Mini Mags take several maint procedures:

* Unscrew the tail cap. Use a cotton swab (Q-tip) and a little oil to clean
the threads, internal and external.
* PUll the little spring out of the tail cap. Clean that, and the hole where
it fits.

I found no hole in the 2aa lite. Just a round spring designed to
contact the round area in the cap.

'Twere corroded. Lite worked after cleaning.

As re elecrical contact, is a Steeee-Range design. :-)

Thx,
P

Same deal, swab and some light oil. WD-40 is good.
* Unscrew the entire lens head off, as if you were changing the bulb. Remove
the bulb. Gently pull the "DO NOT REMOVE" part from the end. The inside part
can now slide out. Swab and oil, to clean the metal parts. Leave the metal
pieces in the round plastic, they are a PIA to get back in. Set the round
plastic with the two metal pieces into the tube, and use two batteries to
push it back in. Replace the plastic part you pulled out. Replace bulb, then
lens assembly, and then tail cap.

You and I must be engineers. No one else spends two hours maintaining a ten
dollar flash light. Check also, are both batteries pointing same direction?

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

Puddin' Man wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 09:09:36 -0400, "Stormin Mormon \(on backup computer\)"
wrote:

Mini Mags take several maint procedures:

* Unscrew the tail cap. Use a cotton swab (Q-tip) and a little oil to clean
the threads, internal and external.
* PUll the little spring out of the tail cap. Clean that, and the hole where
it fits.

I found no hole in the 2aa lite. Just a round spring designed to
contact the round area in the cap.

My 2AA has a cavity underneath the spring in the end cap, where a bit of
foam surrounds a spare bulb. The spring pops out with a good pull.

--
If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming,
you should stop exhaling.

In article ,
Jim Yanik wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote in
:


Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim, changed
batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb. Tried and
tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been abused.

Any ideas?

No signs of battery leakage inside the tube?
(vinegar works good for removing alkaline battery leakage)
When you remove the front bell to replace the bulb,does the black plastic
part spring up and can it be pressed down and spring back when released?
That is how the lamp gets turned on.

it's common for the bulb filament to deposit a black film inside the
bulb,reducing light output.

I installed a Nite-Ize LED mod on my AA Maglite,and a tailcap switch,too.

Please, what's this "LED mod"? (and how to install it?) (and $cost?)


Ditto for tailcap-switch.

Does that mean that now you have TWO ways to turn (toggle?) it on/off?

Thanks!

David

In article ,
Jim Yanik wrote:
Jim Rusling wrote in
rg:

I have not yet seen (doesn't mean they don't exist!) a
LED flashlight with an adjustable beam width-angle.

So, I suppose this is one way to create such a thing! Yes?


David

In article ,
....
....

Maybe you should get some Permatex anti-seize lubricant.(any auto store)
It's made for use on aluminum,and is loaded with graphite and aluminum so
it has excellent electrical conductivity.Good up to 1600 degF.It prevents
galling,too.

CY: I tried the grey stuff. Noalox. Not sure how that worked, it was messy
and I wiped it off. The neverseeze stuff sounds good. If my flash light is
ever 1600 degrees, I'm doing something wrong.


Kinda messy,though,if you're gonna be constantly unscrewing the tailcap.

CY: Same problem with Noalox.


About a year ago I called Maglite and asked, and they told
me to use vaseline.

I did, and no problems (with that) so far (I think!).

David

Off subject maybe for this *part* of the thread, but:

I carry a couple of Mini-maglites (AA) and one Solitaire (AAA),
and have for years.

Where I've *often* (well, regularly!) had bad-contact problems is:

1: Back at the tail, between the small end of the spring
and the minus-end of the rear (or only, for Solitaire) battery,
the fix that seems to work for me is (via my Leatherman, which
I also always carry on my belt (except on airplanes, Go* D**n
WMD lies, terror "colors", the admin pushing fear, fear, fear,
especially as an election nears -- I could go on!), 's) file --

a very gentle brush with it against the rear surface of the
battery and also *very* lightly on the small end of the spring,

2: As someone's already mentioned, between the big end of the spring
and the wall around it, via light brush with the file (on the
spring).


FYI: It's amazing how fast that file wears -- and all I do with it,
just about, is use it on maglites!

(When stupid file wears out, what do I do, buy another
$80 Leatherman "Wave"?)


David

(David Combs) wrote in
:

In article ,
Jim Yanik wrote:
Puddin' Man wrote in
m:


Had a little Mini-Mag 2AA for years. Worked OK. Lite got dim,
changed batteries, still dim. Bulb looked burned, replaced bulb.
Tried and tested different batteries. Cleaned contacts at base/end
of unit.

Damned thang won't lite. Bulb OK, batteries OK, unit has not been
abused.

Any ideas?

No signs of battery leakage inside the tube?
(vinegar works good for removing alkaline battery leakage)
When you remove the front bell to replace the bulb,does the black
plastic part spring up and can it be pressed down and spring back when
released? That is how the lamp gets turned on.

it's common for the bulb filament to deposit a black film inside the
bulb,reducing light output.

I installed a Nite-Ize LED mod on my AA Maglite,and a tailcap
switch,too.

Please, what's this "LED mod"? (and how to install it?) (and
$cost?)


Ditto for tailcap-switch.

Does that mean that now you have TWO ways to turn (toggle?) it
on/off?

Thanks!

David




you can get just the LED module alone,or a kit of the LED module and the
tailcap switch. IIRC,Target had the combo for ~$8 USD. Wal-Mart just sells
the LED module for a tad under $5 USD.
Both come with a replacement reflector with a larger hole for the 3 LEDs.

Yes,you have the tail switch and the screw/unscrew methods.
the tailcap button is easier to use one-handed.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net