Hello,

I'm bringing a 1/0 Al SER cable into a short 2" Schedule 80 PVC (RNC)
sleeve to a panelboard. What's the proper way to terminate the free
end of the sleeve? I could just carefully ream the end of the PVC
conduit, or I could glue on a male adapter and use a bushing. Or is
there something like a clamp connector for RNC?

Thanks, Wayne

"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I'm bringing a 1/0 Al SER cable into a short 2" Schedule 80 PVC (RNC)
sleeve to a panelboard. What's the proper way to terminate the free
end of the sleeve? I could just carefully ream the end of the PVC
conduit, or I could glue on a male adapter and use a bushing. Or is
there something like a clamp connector for RNC?

Thanks, Wayne


Hmmm. Tough question. Technically there should be a clamp connector on the
end of the conduit. However if it is metal it would need to be grounded. I
don't know of any 2" non-metallic cable clamp connectors, but maybe there
are some out there. Try the Carlon web site. A male adapter with a bushing
might be acceptable to the inspector. Perhaps a strap on the cable within
close proximity to the conduit end might also be acceptable.

On 2007-04-29, John Grabowski wrote:

I don't know of any 2" non-metallic cable clamp connectors, but
maybe there are some out there. Try the Carlon web site.

Nothing in the Carlon catalog.

Thanks for your help, Wayne

On 2007-04-29, wrote:

Clamp the SE to the wall where it comes out of the pipe and pack the
end of the pipe with duct seal to keep the critters/rain out.

Thanks for the advice, I'll do that.

Cheers, Wayne

Unless you can ask the inspector first, I'd use a male adapter with a
threaded bushing, then strap the cable close to the conduit. I prefer to
file the ends of the PVC round and smooth, like gfretwell describes, as it
looks better and clamps tight against a flat surface, but I have had knit
pickin inspectors reject it





"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I'm bringing a 1/0 Al SER cable into a short 2" Schedule 80 PVC (RNC)
sleeve to a panelboard. What's the proper way to terminate the free
end of the sleeve? I could just carefully ream the end of the PVC
conduit, or I could glue on a male adapter and use a bushing. Or is
there something like a clamp connector for RNC?

Thanks, Wayne

On 2007-04-29, RBM wrote:

I prefer to file the ends of the PVC round and smooth, like
gfretwell describes, as it looks better and clamps tight against a
flat surface.

What clamps tight against a flat surface? You lost me there.

Thanks, Wayne

When you glue male adapters and bushings on the ends of the PVC, the male
adapters and bushings hold the pipe away from the surface you're strapping
the pipe to






"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message
...
On 2007-04-29, RBM wrote:

I prefer to file the ends of the PVC round and smooth, like
gfretwell describes, as it looks better and clamps tight against a
flat surface.

What clamps tight against a flat surface? You lost me there.

Thanks, Wayne

According to Wayne Whitney :
On 2007-04-29, wrote:

Clamp the SE to the wall where it comes out of the pipe and pack the
end of the pipe with duct seal to keep the critters/rain out.

Thanks for the advice, I'll do that.

Yes, that should do the trick:

1) Deburr the PVC at both ends - eg: curved file, or sandpaper
around a chunk of dowel. (this may be excessively fussy, but
it's good workmanship anyway)

2) Clamp the SER close to the conduit, but form the wire
so that it's held away from the edges of the conduit - eg:
plastic conduit clamps against the wall with a bit
of slack going into the pipe. Allows for thermal
expansion/contraction and minor pulls and tugs. If the
wire is in contact with the edge, even with plastic, vibration
and expansion/contraction movement _may_ cut the insulation,
even with (tho less than with metal) with plastic.

3) DUX seal the ends of the conduit. You're going to need
this in any event.

With metal conduit, you need rubber boots on it, tho, if
enclosed in a box, the DUX may be sufficient.

Having a piece of conduit going thru a wall and ending in a box
without sealing the conduit is a recipe for a fi moist air
flow + live connections - corrosion - heat - poof.

House down the street burned down because of an unsealed
service conduit entering the back of the panel.

The inside end of your conduit is open, and isn't much of a
problem that way, but the outside end is in the disconnect
IIRC.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On 2007-04-30, Chris Lewis wrote:

1) Deburr the PVC at both ends - eg: curved file, or sandpaper
around a chunk of dowel. (this may be excessively fussy, but it's
good workmanship anyway)

When working with plumbing pipe (plastic or copper) I usually just use
a small blade; lately I've found that the manual can opener attachment
on my multi-tool works well.

The inside end of your conduit is open, and isn't much of a problem
that way, but the outside end is in the disconnect IIRC.

That's right, I'm coming into the bottom of the disconnect after going
through an LB conduit body. Let me make sure that I have the
connection at the disconnect right: I'm going to use a male adapter, a
metal locknut, and a plastic bushing. Carlon make a "flat
washer/o-ring" for their male adapter and suggests that they be used
outside a box for a watertight connection with a male adapter, so I'm
going to track down one of those. Does that connection sound OK?

Thanks, Wayne

"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message
...
On 2007-04-30, Chris Lewis wrote:

1) Deburr the PVC at both ends - eg: curved file, or sandpaper
around a chunk of dowel. (this may be excessively fussy, but it's
good workmanship anyway)

When working with plumbing pipe (plastic or copper) I usually just use
a small blade; lately I've found that the manual can opener attachment
on my multi-tool works well.

The inside end of your conduit is open, and isn't much of a problem
that way, but the outside end is in the disconnect IIRC.

That's right, I'm coming into the bottom of the disconnect after going
through an LB conduit body. Let me make sure that I have the
connection at the disconnect right: I'm going to use a male adapter, a
metal locknut, and a plastic bushing. Carlon make a "flat
washer/o-ring" for their male adapter and suggests that they be used
outside a box for a watertight connection with a male adapter, so I'm
going to track down one of those. Does that connection sound OK?

Thanks, Wayne


It sounds good. You don't necessarily need the O-ring for a bottom
entrance. They are usually used for a side or top entrance, but there is
nothing wrong with you using it on the bottom.

On 2007-04-30, John Grabowski wrote:

It sounds good. You don't necessarily need the O-ring for a bottom
entrance. They are usually used for a side or top entrance, but
there is nothing wrong with you using it on the bottom.

Well, I'm going to omit it then, as nobody stocks it around here, it
would be a special order.

Thanks, Wayne