I had to replace my 30 years old elec. water heater and need to
dispose of it. The recycling center takes metal scrap for free but
charges for full water heaters.

I'd like to cut up the old water heater into small sections for metal
recycling. My biggest question it what's the main storage tank made
of. Is it steel? If it's glass lined does this cause any problems in
cutting it up?

Does a sawsall work OK or would a cutting torch work better. I'm just
not sure what to expect once I peel off the steel shell.

TIA

"Bud" wrote in message
oups.com...

I had to replace my 30 years old elec. water heater and need to
dispose of it. The recycling center takes metal scrap for free but
charges for full water heaters.

The car wrecker/scrap dealer in my village took away
the discarded water heater as is, no questions asked.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

"Bud" wrote in message
oups.com...
I had to replace my 30 years old elec. water heater and need to
dispose of it. The recycling center takes metal scrap for free but
charges for full water heaters.

I'd like to cut up the old water heater into small sections for metal
recycling. My biggest question it what's the main storage tank made
of. Is it steel? If it's glass lined does this cause any problems in
cutting it up?

Does a sawsall work OK or would a cutting torch work better. I'm just
not sure what to expect once I peel off the steel shell.

TIA


Hi Bud,

A really old Hot water heater will be made of copper and copper = $$$$
The newer ones are made from Galvanized steel though ...I've
cut them apart using an angle grinder and a "zip cut" blade (very thin blade
for cutting only) Wear a dust mask and of course safety goggles.Your sawsall
will work with a metal blade...will just be slower is all..... I've split
them in half as they make a great feeding trough for farm animals. (welder
here by trade) The copper ones you want to sell to the scrap yard but shop
around as not all scrap yards will offer you the same price for copper. Jim

Plenty of people take them apart. One fo the reasons why they get
taken apart is because often sediment builds up in it and it gets too
heavy to remove it. So cutting it into smaller pieces often helps
(that and usually when it's removed it's taken up stairs).

wrote in message
oups.com...
Plenty of people take them apart. One fo the reasons why they get
taken apart is because often sediment builds up in it and it gets too
heavy to remove it. So cutting it into smaller pieces often helps
(that and usually when it's removed it's taken up stairs).


I believe the glass lining is pretty minimal - very thin - but you will also
have the insulation to deal with which lies under the thin, steel cosmetic
jacket. Next, remove the heating element plates which will give you access
to the bottom of the tank. You can then scrape out the mineral deposits.
Look at the dip tube and determine if it's metal or plastic which, according
to your specs you will need to remove if it is plastic. That should give
you a clean hulk which willl be light enough to move without the headache of
cutting it up. Even if you need to cut it I would think that one cut around
the middle would make it manageable for you. Good luck.

"Bud" wrote in message
oups.com...
I had to replace my 30 years old elec. water heater and need to
dispose of it. The recycling center takes metal scrap for free but
charges for full water heaters.

I'd like to cut up the old water heater into small sections for metal
recycling. My biggest question it what's the main storage tank made
of. Is it steel? If it's glass lined does this cause any problems in
cutting it up?

Does a sawsall work OK or would a cutting torch work better. I'm just
not sure what to expect once I peel off the steel shell.

Tin on the outside with a wrap of fiber glass insulation. To cut the tank a
torch will work fine or a skill saw with a metal cutting blade will work
also (gloves face shield and long sleeves)


--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.



TIA

On 22 Mar 2007 10:39:59 -0700, wrote:

Plenty of people take water heaters apart. One fo the reasons why they get
taken apart is because often sediment builds up in it and it gets too
heavy to remove it. So cutting it into smaller pieces often helps
(that and usually when it's removed it's taken up stairs).

I wish I had thought of that.

I took off the top of my electric water heater, and it didn't look
easy to take apart, so I and a 140 pound woman continued to struggle
to get it up the stairs.

"Bud" wrote:
-snip-
Does a sawsall work OK or would a cutting torch work better. I'm just
not sure what to expect once I peel off the steel shell.

Sawsall with the right blade-- But even if you have a sawsall, it's
cheaper to use a $5 plywood blade in a skilsaw. It starts slow-
but once it gets going it melts its way through. I've used the
same $5 blade to chop up two 275gallon oil barrels and 3 hot water
tanks so far-- since it is 'cutting' mostly by friction heat it
seems like the smoother it gets the faster it cuts.

!!!Be sure to use eye and respiratory protection!!!!

Jim

"Jimi" wrote:
-snip-
A really old Hot water heater will be made of copper and copper = $$$$
The newer ones are made from Galvanized steel though ...I've

The world is a very big place- but outside of museums I haven't seen a
copper water heater.

Where have you seen a copper [or even copper lined] one. Had to
be pre 1920's at least, wasn't it?

Jim

Will you go to Bud's and pick up his WH for him?

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"Don Phillipson" wrote in message
...
: "Bud" wrote in message
: oups.com...
:
: I had to replace my 30 years old elec. water heater and need
to
: dispose of it. The recycling center takes metal scrap for
free but
: charges for full water heaters.
:
: The car wrecker/scrap dealer in my village took away
: the discarded water heater as is, no questions asked.
: --
: Don Phillipson
: Carlsbad Springs
: (Ottawa, Canada)
:
:

I have 3 thoughts: Is this to: 1) Remove it from your house? 2) To get a
the elements in it to fix it or 3) For cleaning it out? Also, is it Gas
or Electric? I just recently did some work (home owner knowledge only)
and it was less than a 10 minute job to replace the heating elements
(both top and bottom) and about $45.00 in parts. One of the simplist
jobs I ever had to do. All that was required was to turn off the
electric, turn off the water, open the pressure valve, start to drain
the tank, and then get a BIG cressant wrench to take out the elements.
You will need a screwdriver too, to remove the wires attached to those
elements. Then just reverse the operation. Don't pay an electrician to
do this simple job!!! Michael at Aspenologies


--
Aspenologies
Message Origin: TRAVEL.com

Aspenologies wrote:
I have 3 thoughts: Is this to: 1) Remove it from your house? 2) To get a
the elements in it to fix it or 3) For cleaning it out? Also, is it Gas
or Electric? I just recently did some work (home owner knowledge only)
and it was less than a 10 minute job to replace the heating elements
(both top and bottom) and about $45.00 in parts. One of the simplist
jobs I ever had to do. All that was required was to turn off the
electric, turn off the water, open the pressure valve, start to drain
the tank, and then get a BIG cressant wrench to take out the elements.
You will need a screwdriver too, to remove the wires attached to those
elements. Then just reverse the operation. Don't pay an electrician to
do this simple job!!! Michael at Aspenologies



I've changed a lot of electric water heater elements
without draining the heater. Of course I turn everything
off and relieve the pressure but if you're quick enough,
you can remove and replace the element with very little
water splashing out of the hole. It's even better if you
have a helper to hold a pan or small bucket to catch any
water. Hint, close the T/P valve first and any open hot
water faucets.

TDD

That doesn't square with what I have been told. Close the
cold inlet. Open a hot faucet, to relieve the pressure. And
then *close* the faucet. You sure don't want a bunch of air
coming in the faucet, and allowing the water to drain out.
Bad enough that some air gets in the element hole.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"The Daring Dufas" wrote
in message ...

I've changed a lot of electric water heater elements
without draining the heater. Of course I turn everything
off and relieve the pressure but if you're quick enough,
you can remove and replace the element with very little
water splashing out of the hole. It's even better if you
have a helper to hold a pan or small bucket to catch any
water. Hint, close the T/P valve first and any open hot
water faucets.

TDD

Stormin Mormon wrote:
That doesn't square with what I have been told. Close the
cold inlet. Open a hot faucet, to relieve the pressure. And
then *close* the faucet. You sure don't want a bunch of air
coming in the faucet, and allowing the water to drain out.
Bad enough that some air gets in the element hole.


I don't think you completely read my post.

"Hint, close the T/P valve first and any open hot
water faucets." This was after relieving pressure.

Premature postification, it happens to all men sooner
or later. *snicker*

TDD

OK, lets take a look at the two procedures which have been
described.
1) The Chris procedure. Open TP vavle to relieve pressure.
Close both the TP valve, and all the hot faucets. Put the
necessary thread sealant on the new element. Remove the
element, and replace as quickly as possible, while still
being careful. A little bit of water comes out the element
hole, can't be avoided. Since the faucets upstairs are
closed, the vapor lock helps hold the water in the heater. A
helper uses a bucket or pan, and catches as much of the
water as possible.
2) A smug, condescending asshole Dufas goes to change the
elements on electric water heater. Confidently and smugly,
he derides that good for nothing Mormon guy. Dufas closes
the TP valve, and opens the hot water faucets. Loosening the
heater element, gravity pulls water out of the hole left by
the element. Air rushes in the hot water faucet, the water
pours out of the element hole, as air rushes in the hot
water faucet(s) upstairs. Dufas pours water all over the
floor, curses, and runs to get a mop. All the time declaring
how superior he is, to that dumb Mormon. Dufas turns water
on, water sprays out the threads, the new element doesn't
have any thread sealer.

Yeah, you got me that time. I really look stupid. Can I hand
you a towel?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"The Daring Dufas" wrote
in message ...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
That doesn't square with what I have been told. Close the
cold inlet. Open a hot faucet, to relieve the pressure.
And
then *close* the faucet. You sure don't want a bunch of
air
coming in the faucet, and allowing the water to drain out.
Bad enough that some air gets in the element hole.


I don't think you completely read my post.

"Hint, close the T/P valve first and any open hot
water faucets." This was after relieving pressure.

Premature postification, it happens to all men sooner
or later. *snicker*

TDD

Stormin Mormon wrote:
OK, lets take a look at the two procedures which have been
described.
1) The Chris procedure. Open TP vavle to relieve pressure.
Close both the TP valve, and all the hot faucets. Put the
necessary thread sealant on the new element. Remove the
element, and replace as quickly as possible, while still
being careful. A little bit of water comes out the element
hole, can't be avoided. Since the faucets upstairs are
closed, the vapor lock helps hold the water in the heater. A
helper uses a bucket or pan, and catches as much of the
water as possible.
2) A smug, condescending asshole Dufas goes to change the
elements on electric water heater. Confidently and smugly,
he derides that good for nothing Mormon guy. Dufas closes
the TP valve, and opens the hot water faucets. Loosening the
heater element, gravity pulls water out of the hole left by
the element. Air rushes in the hot water faucet, the water
pours out of the element hole, as air rushes in the hot
water faucet(s) upstairs. Dufas pours water all over the
floor, curses, and runs to get a mop. All the time declaring
how superior he is, to that dumb Mormon. Dufas turns water
on, water sprays out the threads, the new element doesn't
have any thread sealer.

Yeah, you got me that time. I really look stupid. Can I hand
you a towel?


You still misread my post and along with top posting
has probably led to your confusion. I don't recall
ever being nasty to you or having any reason to be.
If a little harmless ribbing or teasing gets you
bent out of shape, I feel sorry for you. If I offended
you, I wasn't trying to. After relieving the pressure
in the tank, I always close everything before removing
the element. I've been doing it that way for four
decades and now I have to deal with those newfangled
tankless water heaters, I've installed them but haven't
had to repair any of them.

God will get you.

TDD