I would like to put a double cord-drawn curtain track in a bedroom,
with heavy drapes/shear combination, but I am somewhat unclear on the
best method of installation.

(The wall is timber-framed, with gyprock/drywall on the inside, with a
steel casement window, if this makes any difference). The window has
~4 inch wooden trim above and on the sides, and all the current
curtain rods and tracks in the house are attached to the trim at the
top.

This particular window is 285cm (112 inches) wide (from outside of
trim to outside of trim). The drapes will have a triple-pass lining
sewn to the decorative fabric, be ~2.3m long (lining a bit shorter),
with a gathering ratio of ~2.

The available tracks that I can buy at my fabric store are 200-290cm
(with 2 centre supports I believe), or 290-380cm (with 3 centre
supports), and I would need to buy double brackets separately to
convert to a double track. I am going to find out tonight if I can buy
extra centre supports individually, if needed.

Where is likely to be the best place to attach the track so that the
weight of the drapes doesn't pull the track down? The wooden trim or
above the trim, into the wall?

If I attach it to the trim, I would need to use the shorter of the
tracks-would 2 centre supports be sufficient? Could the trim be pulled
away from the wall over time?

If I attach to the wall, I could use the longer track (although not
much longer due to a perpendicular wall nearby). If I need to attach
the brackets to the studs, they may not be evenly distributed, would
that be a concern?

I will be making the drapes, and their exact length is not an issue.
But I have never picked/installed a track before, so would appreciate
any advice.

TIA,
Karina

wrote in message
s.com...
I would like to put a double cord-drawn curtain track in a bedroom,
with heavy drapes/shear combination, but I am somewhat unclear on the
best method of installation.

(The wall is timber-framed, with gyprock/drywall on the inside, with a
steel casement window, if this makes any difference). The window has
~4 inch wooden trim above and on the sides, and all the current
curtain rods and tracks in the house are attached to the trim at the
top.
(snip)
Where is likely to be the best place to attach the track so that the
weight of the drapes doesn't pull the track down? The wooden trim or
above the trim, into the wall?

If I attach it to the trim, I would need to use the shorter of the
tracks-would 2 centre supports be sufficient? Could the trim be pulled
away from the wall over time?

If I attach to the wall, I could use the longer track (although not
much longer due to a perpendicular wall nearby). If I need to attach
the brackets to the studs, they may not be evenly distributed, would
that be a concern?

I will be making the drapes, and their exact length is not an issue.
But I have never picked/installed a track before, so would appreciate
any advice.
I'm no interior decorator, so this may look wrong, but I always put them
above the trim, screwed through the rock into the header in the center, and
right over the the outside corners on the ends, positioned to catch at least
one long screw into the studs on each side of header. Use molleys for any
that miss stud, but if all of them miss the stud, move the bracket over a
hair. Heavy drapes screwed into trim will tend to tear the trim off the
window or wall. The dinky little screws that come with most traverse rods
are garbage- get real screws, phillips or hex head if possible. Keeping a
flat-blade centered on tiptoes is a pain. I like to use fine-thread drywall
screws, if the top of the drapes will hide them. Driver bit in a cordless
drill makes the install go quick.

aem sends...

On 14 Mar 2007 19:59:57 -0700, wrote:


Where is likely to be the best place to attach the track so that the
weight of the drapes doesn't pull the track down? The wooden trim or
above the trim, into the wall?

I know only a bit about curtains, and only wrt to the USA, where they
don't use the metric system, so you probably don't live here.

But, since we are on the subject....

Didn't windows used to have extra wood around the upper corners,
underneath the sheet rock, so that curtains could be attached there?

Do they still?

clipped
I will be making the drapes, and their exact length is not an issue.
But I have never picked/installed a track before, so would appreciate
any advice.

TIA,
Karina


I would get at least one, preferably two, of the brackets anchored into
wall studs. If center bracket is in studs, no way they can fall down.

I would also choose rods that have separate brackets available. I made
drapes about the same size - a little over 11' wide - from denim, which
is rather heavy, and with lightweight lining. Anchored only with
plastic thingies in wallboard. Not my first choice, but I was tired of
the dang project and wanted to be done with it )

I don't care for brackets anchored on window trim, but it is a matter of
personal choice. You may want to consider placing the brackets far
enough from the edge of the window so that when the drapes are open all
the way there is room to "stack" alongside the window, not in front of
window. Fabric stores in my area are not great places to shop for
hardware; if there is a specialty shop that carries a variety of
hardware it might be a better choice. Expen$ive. We would have had to
mortgage the house to buy new rods, so we bought bamboo poles, cut to
size, less than $30 each window. Wood rings stained to match.

On Mar 15, 2:40 pm, "aemeijers" wrote:
..

I'm no interior decorator, so this may look wrong, but I always put them
above the trim, screwed through the rock into the header in the center, and
right over the the outside corners on the ends, positioned to catch at least
one long screw into the studs on each side of header. Use molleys for any
that miss stud, but if all of them miss the stud, move the bracket over a
hair. Heavy drapes screwed into trim will tend to tear the trim off the
window or wall. The dinky little screws that come with most traverse rods
are garbage- get real screws, phillips or hex head if possible. Keeping a
flat-blade centered on tiptoes is a pain. I like to use fine-thread drywall
screws, if the top of the drapes will hide them. Driver bit in a cordless
drill makes the install go quick.

aem sends...

Thanks, I will definitely look for longer screws. No tiptoes though,
as will be more than 3 feet higher than my head!

How far above the window would the header typically extend? If it is
more than 4 inches in my case, I could probably attach the brackets
above the window trim.

Karina

I would also choose rods that have separate brackets available. I made
drapes about the same size - a little over 11' wide - from denim, which
is rather heavy, and with lightweight lining. Anchored only with
plastic thingies in wallboard. Not my first choice, but I was tired of
the dang project and wanted to be done with it )


How many brackets did you need to use? Last night, the saleslady told
me to install the track with one centre support, and only put in more
if it sags, which sounds like a recipe for a bent track!

You may want to consider placing the brackets far
enough from the edge of the window so that when the drapes are open all
the way there is room to "stack" alongside the window, not in front of
window.

Normally I would, but there isn't much room on one side of the window
(BIW). I think that I am better off putting the end bracket in a stud,
even if it means covering the window a bit-it is quite a large window
anyway.

We would have had to
mortgage the house to buy new rods, so we bought bamboo poles, cut to
size, less than $30 each window. Wood rings stained to match.

Did you find that touching them to open/close left marks? (one reason
I would like something corded)

Thanks,
Karina

(foolowing up to myself...)

I had a look at the curtain tracks at the store last night, and I can
buy extra centre support brackets if required. However, when I had a
close look at them, I realised that the track didn't have a smooth
profile at the front (which is what I expected). Instead, there it a
small bulge/lip running along the top front of the track, and the
centre supports only hook on to this bulge/lip, rather than passing
down the entire front and underneath of the track. Is the arrangement
that I saw last night too flimsy for heavy drapes? (my gut feeling)

TIA,
Karina

wrote:
I would also choose rods that have separate brackets available. I made
drapes about the same size - a little over 11' wide - from denim, which
is rather heavy, and with lightweight lining. Anchored only with
plastic thingies in wallboard. Not my first choice, but I was tired of
the dang project and wanted to be done with it )



How many brackets did you need to use? Last night, the saleslady told
me to install the track with one centre support, and only put in more
if it sags, which sounds like a recipe for a bent track!

Three brackets, total. We have triple panel sliding doors to patios off
two rooms, thus the huge draperies. Our bamboo rods are about 1 3/4"
diameter and don't sag at all. I am sure there are heavier duty
traverse rods, although I would expect them to be prohibitively
expensive for 11' windows.

You can test the rods before you install them by extending them and then
putting each end on a chair. Give some pressure on the middle to see if
they flex. The shape of traverse rods is such that they should not bend
much, if at all.

You may want to consider placing the brackets far
enough from the edge of the window so that when the drapes are open all
the way there is room to "stack" alongside the window, not in front of
window.


Normally I would, but there isn't much room on one side of the window
(BIW). I think that I am better off putting the end bracket in a stud,
even if it means covering the window a bit-it is quite a large window
anyway.


We would have had to
mortgage the house to buy new rods, so we bought bamboo poles, cut to
size, less than $30 each window. Wood rings stained to match.


Did you find that touching them to open/close left marks? (one reason
I would like something corded)

Natural color (off-white) so that was an issue to consider. We don't
open/shut them often, and just touch the ring when we want to pull it
shut. I made a little "wand", fastened to the center rings, so
hubby/mechanic wouldn't grab the white drapes to pull them shut )
Thanks,
Karina

wrote:

On Mar 15, 2:40 pm, "aemeijers" wrote:
.

I'm no interior decorator, so this may look wrong, but I always put them
above the trim, screwed through the rock into the header in the center, and
right over the the outside corners on the ends, positioned to catch at least
one long screw into the studs on each side of header. Use molleys for any
that miss stud, but if all of them miss the stud, move the bracket over a
hair. Heavy drapes screwed into trim will tend to tear the trim off the
window or wall. The dinky little screws that come with most traverse rods
are garbage- get real screws, phillips or hex head if possible. Keeping a
flat-blade centered on tiptoes is a pain. I like to use fine-thread drywall
screws, if the top of the drapes will hide them. Driver bit in a cordless
drill makes the install go quick.

aem sends...


Thanks, I will definitely look for longer screws. No tiptoes though,
as will be more than 3 feet higher than my head!

How far above the window would the header typically extend? If it is
more than 4 inches in my case, I could probably attach the brackets
above the window trim.

Karina


There aren't any "rules", but rod should be high enough the hardware
doesn't show from outside and the drape covers the window on inside when
drawn closed. I agree that fastening brackets on the trim can be risky,
but might be best solution if yours is fastened securely.

Take a look at Levelor (or Empire). They have high quality heavy-duty
tracks and rods with smooth finishes.

On 15 Mar 2007 19:18:39 -0700, wrote:

(foolowing up to myself...)

I had a look at the curtain tracks at the store last night, and I can
buy extra centre support brackets if required. However, when I had a
close look at them, I realised that the track didn't have a smooth
profile at the front (which is what I expected). Instead, there it a
small bulge/lip running along the top front of the track, and the
centre supports only hook on to this bulge/lip, rather than passing
down the entire front and underneath of the track. Is the arrangement
that I saw last night too flimsy for heavy drapes? (my gut feeling)

Are these the ones that the maker designed for this rod?

Without mounting to the wall, put a bracket on the rod and hold each
half in one hand and pull in the direction of force that will exist
when the drapes are hung. See how well it holds. Then come to a
conclusion about how many you need. Put the bracket in a place where
you don't expect to put a bracket so that if you damage the rod, it
won't matter.

Why do you need draperies so heavy in the first place? I have black-
out drapes in my bedroom that don't weigh more than average.

If you have bought or made the drapes already, start with the
assumption that a 9 foot window will use 45 "center", intermediate
brackets. If you can get buy with fewer, that would be good too.

TIA,
Karina

wrote in message
s.com...
I would like to put a double cord-drawn curtain track in a bedroom,
with heavy drapes/shear combination, but I am somewhat unclear on the
best method of installation.

(The wall is timber-framed, with gyprock/drywall on the inside, with a
steel casement window, if this makes any difference). The window has
~4 inch wooden trim above and on the sides, and all the current
curtain rods and tracks in the house are attached to the trim at the
top.

This particular window is 285cm (112 inches) wide (from outside of
trim to outside of trim). The drapes will have a triple-pass lining
sewn to the decorative fabric, be ~2.3m long (lining a bit shorter),
with a gathering ratio of ~2.

The available tracks that I can buy at my fabric store are 200-290cm
(with 2 centre supports I believe), or 290-380cm (with 3 centre
supports), and I would need to buy double brackets separately to
convert to a double track. I am going to find out tonight if I can buy
extra centre supports individually, if needed.



These guys have all stolen my response with their good answers. On the wall
above the casing is the correct place. There never give you enough center
supports to carry the weight of really heavy drapes. For a double traverse
rod I would space them no more than 30" apart. When I installed my own I had
one support every 24". 10 years later there has been no deflection at all.
With your specs I would suggest the same.

I have Graber and Kirsch superfine parts in the basement if you need some
they are cheap.


Colbyt

On Mar 14, 9:59 pm, wrote:
I would like to put a double cord-drawn curtain track in a bedroom,
~4 inch wooden trim above and on the sides, and all the current
curtain rods and tracks in the house are attached to the trim at the
This particular window is 285cm (112 inches) wide (from outside of

I put a double traverse rod on my front window, which is also 112". I
used 2 single traverse 120" rods from HD, and hacked it with some
aluminum plates and the brackets that they give you. Now you have the
hardware kit from two rods, so you have enough center supports. I have
3, spaced roughly equally. If you can find the studs above the 4"
trim, that'll be the best place to put the brackets. With 120" rods,
you have 4" on each side to find the studs, and even you find some
wood just inside the 112", you're OK, because the ends of the drapes
will cover an inch or so on each side. You can go as high as you need
to clear the trim, because you're making the drapes and they can be as
long as you need.You don't need to find studs for every bracket and
support, wall anchors are OK, as long as maybe 2 or 3 are attached to
studs.

If you do make end plates yourself to make a double rod from 2
singles, remember to leave enough space between the rods for the
drapes to gather. Double rods are expensive on-line, and HD, etc.
don't have them, but a custom drapery store might have some.

Thanks to everyone who replied. The type of rod that I was looking at
online also has brackets available to convert a single rod to a
double, so I hopefully won't need to make such brackets myself. It
looks like I'll be putting in at least 3 centre brackets. (into the
header if it extends above the window trim)

Karina

On Mar 17, 9:43 am, "Colbyt" wrote:


I have Graber and Kirsch superfine parts in the basement if you need some
they are cheap.

Colbyt

Thanks for the offer, but I'm in a different country. I'm also
appreciative of your website, which turned up on an earlier search-I'm
sure that I'll be referring to it when the time comes to put the rod
up.

Have you seen the type of rod with a small (~1/4 inch) bulge/lip
across the top, to which the centre bracket attaches? The brackets are
sold to fit, so clearly they are intended to go together, but are they
only suitable for lightweight curtains? I'm sorry that I don't have a
picture, but it isn't on the manufacturer's website.

Karina

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Mar 17, 9:43 am, "Colbyt" wrote:
Have you seen the type of rod with a small (~1/4 inch) bulge/lip
across the top, to which the centre bracket attaches? The brackets are
sold to fit, so clearly they are intended to go together, but are they
only suitable for lightweight curtains? I'm sorry that I don't have a
picture, but it isn't on the manufacturer's website.


The lip in this photo
http://www.continentalwindowfashions...se-Rods_3.html

is more like an 1/8". There are a couple of other brands where it is
slightly more pronounced. Some do not have any lip at all. If the brackets
come from the same place as the rod, that is as good as it gets.

If you are buying a brand used by professionals you will have no problems.
If you are buying something from a mass retailer like potterybarn you might
have problems. There is a reason the stuff sold by the mass marketers is
cheaper. IMO, it is of a cheaper quality. I just don't install that cheap
stuff anymore. There is an old country saying, "you can't make a silk purse
out of a sows ear". For years I tried to give a quality installation with
inferior parts and then I said "no more".

Feel free to contact me via email or my site contact form and I will try to
help you with any advice that I might be able to offer.

Colbyt

On Mar 20, 5:48 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...

On Mar 17, 9:43 am, "Colbyt" wrote:
Have you seen the type of rod with a small (~1/4 inch) bulge/lip
across the top, to which the centre bracket attaches? The brackets are
sold to fit, so clearly they are intended to go together, but are they
only suitable for lightweight curtains? I'm sorry that I don't have a
picture, but it isn't on the manufacturer's website.

The lip in this photohttp://www.continentalwindowfashions.com/category_k003_Kirsch-Superfi...

is more like an 1/8". There are a couple of other brands where it is
slightly more pronounced. Some do not have any lip at all. If the brackets
come from the same place as the rod, that is as good as it gets.



If you are buying a brand used by professionals you will have no problems.
If you are buying something from a mass retailer like potterybarn you might
have problems. There is a reason the stuff sold by the mass marketers is
cheaper. IMO, it is of a cheaper quality. I just don't install that cheap
stuff anymore. There is an old country saying, "you can't make a silk purse
out of a sows ear". For years I tried to give a quality installation with
inferior parts and then I said "no more".

Feel free to contact me via email or my site contact form and I will try to
help you with any advice that I might be able to offer.

Colbyt




Lots of great ideas but up until 10 or years ago I did professional
installations..

The rod you pointed to in the link if it hasn't been cheapened is
quite strong but like most things do sag if not correctly supported

Rule of thumb (s)

Hang curtain rods at the finished length of the draperies +1 " after
they hang they will come down some
if the width of the window is 112 see if the span between the first
pleat and the last pleat on both panels add the distance together and
see if you have 114" or more that way the draperies will cover the
frame nicely. If you have more they will just hang fuller.

Knowing the height and width you are now ready to start mounting .
if you have the 60 120" rod you will find two center supports on
labeled "IN" & one labeled "OUT" I woul say you need 1 additional
"OUT" per rod . You will also need the extension brakets for the
center supports and the end brackets. You will transfer the movable
brackets from the single depth mounting to the double mounting!

Attachment locate a stud but the header is better, toggle bolt are far
better the molly bolts, throw away the plastic anchors and #6 x 1"
screws. If you hit the header or wwoor use a 2" x #8 screw 2 per end
bracket top abd bottom only on the side away from the bracket, as far
as the center supports go use onlt the top holes on the outside of the
brackets. No studs use toggle bolts.

Just as a side if the drapes are long enought you can take the center
supports off and attach to the ceiling and the end you just secure
with the hole in the very end of the rod.

What to do with the cord.... Buy a tension pully and attach it to the
wall in line with the window frame, put cord through the pulley, then
draw the guides all the way back and set the ceter by looping the cord
on the left bracket over the grabber, then on the right guide puul th
right hand knot and pull excess until tension pulley rises about 2
inches - cut the cord and retie a new knot.

Hang the drapes and your done!


Cheers

"Hank" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Mar 20, 5:48 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...


Hang curtain rods at the finished length of the draperies +1 " after
they hang they will come down some
if the width of the window is 112 see if the span between the first


Your directions were right on target but what decorator let you have 3/4" of
floor clearance?

They want them a neat clean 1/4" off the floor around here.

Do I sound bitter?

On Mar 21, 8:14 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"Hank" wrote in message

ups.com...

On Mar 20, 5:48 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
wrote in message

groups.com...

Hang curtain rods at the finished length of the draperies +1 " after
they hang they will come down some
if the width of the window is 112 see if the span between the first

Your directions were right on target but what decorator let you have 3/4" of
floor clearance?

They want them a neat clean 1/4" off the floor around here.

Do I sound bitter?

Actuall after they hang for a week or so they stretch out to 1/2 3/8
clearance!