I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?


I used the JB Kwik stuff, and it is as good as the JB Weld. When I want to
fix something, there's no use of just not letting it sit for 24 hours. Only
thing I can see is that it is a slightly different color (darker) and it
sits up a little faster, which would help if you're using it in a location
that is going to sag.

I'd say they both would be cured in 24 hours.

Steve

DerbyDad03 writes:

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

JB "Weld" is simply epoxy and filler.

Your intuition is correct. Faster setting epoxy is weaker than slower
setting, both in compressive strength and bond strength.

See the excellent downloadable manuals on epoxy products and applications:

http://www.systemthree.com/

On Jan 31, 9:08 pm, Richard J Kinch wrote:
DerbyDad03 writes:
My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

JB "Weld" is simply epoxy and filler.

Your intuition is correct. Faster setting epoxy is weaker than slower
setting, both in compressive strength and bond strength.

See the excellent downloadable manuals on epoxy products and applications:

http://www.systemthree.com/

Thanks for the response. I am very familiar with epoxies and fillers.
I have the West Systems pump setup, but I only use it when I need more
than a little bit. http://www.westsystem.com/

Even with the smaller pumps, you get more than you need for most
simple repairs and it's a bit more expensive. That's why I use the JB
product for small fixes. I assumed the Kwik set stuff would be weaker
but I just thought I'd check.

Thanks again.

You are correct. The longer the cure takes, the better the bond. I won't
use jbquik.

--
Steve Barker


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?

On 31 Jan 2007 17:05:18 -0800, "DerbyDad03"
wrote:

I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?

Sometimes I hold things together with Ambroid Cement, which dries in
less than 5 mintues (although I give it a half hour to "cure") and
then put on expoxy to really hold it. I make sure there are plenty of
bonding places that the Ambroid Cement** isn't touching.

**Available at hobby stores only. Comes in one tube, pretty strong
but can be broken apart later if need be.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in
oups.com:

I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?



longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure" is
for "can be handled"

One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow) as
the long-cure J-B Weld.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"DerbyDad03" wrote in
ups.com:

On Jan 31, 9:08 pm, Richard J Kinch wrote:
DerbyDad03 writes:
My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

JB "Weld" is simply epoxy and filler.

Your intuition is correct. Faster setting epoxy is weaker than
slower setting, both in compressive strength and bond strength.

See the excellent downloadable manuals on epoxy products and
applications:

http://www.systemthree.com/

Thanks for the response. I am very familiar with epoxies and fillers.
I have the West Systems pump setup, but I only use it when I need more
than a little bit. http://www.westsystem.com/

For smaller measures of epoxy resin and hardener,you can use those oral
syringes the pharmacies have for dispensing medicines.They're pretty
inexpensive,use one for resin,another for hardener.
I also have some small 1 oz graduated cups made for measuring
medicines;they are calibrated in cc's,mL,drams,and fractions of oz.You can
buy a stack of 100 for less than $10 at WalMart.They are GREAT for
measuring/mixing small amounts of epoxy.I just pour in the resin to the
desired amt,and the hardener on top to its required amt,and stir.

I use RAKA(similar to West),J-B Weld,and Hysol 608 epoxies.
(used some tonight!)


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Jan 31, 9:08 pm, Richard J Kinch wrote:

JB "Weld" is simply epoxy and filler.


SIMPLY EPOXY?!??! JB Weld is the substance which holds the universe
together!

Well, that and duct tape.



-rev

On 1 Feb 2007 05:52:48 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure" is
for "can be handled"

One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow) as
the long-cure J-B Weld.

This is when i uSUALLY bring up PC-70, which seems to be a lot like JB
Weld, but it doesnt' run and has to be smoothed with a wet finger. It
doesn't automatically become as smooth as JB Weld does.

mm wrote in
:

On 1 Feb 2007 05:52:48 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure"
is for "can be handled"

One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow)
as the long-cure J-B Weld.

This is when i uSUALLY bring up PC-70, which seems to be a lot like JB
Weld, but it doesnt' run and has to be smoothed with a wet finger. It
doesn't automatically become as smooth as JB Weld does.


smoothing works better using rubbing alcohol on your finger.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Charlie Morgan wrote in
:

On 3 Feb 2007 01:54:52 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

mm wrote in
m:

On 1 Feb 2007 05:52:48 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure"
is for "can be handled"

One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow)
as the long-cure J-B Weld.

This is when i uSUALLY bring up PC-70, which seems to be a lot like JB
Weld, but it doesnt' run and has to be smoothed with a wet finger. It
doesn't automatically become as smooth as JB Weld does.


smoothing works better using rubbing alcohol on your finger.

Rubbing alcohol contains OIL

CWM

so does the skin of your finger.

My isopropyl alk hs no oil. Better go read the labels in the pharmacy.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Nobody You'd Know wrote:
On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 10:05:57 -0500, Charlie Morgan wrote:

Define "water" as used on that label. There is oil in rubbing alcohol.

CWM

Whatever you say. Have it your way. My PhD in Chemistry
obviously carries with it no knowledge.

You are right, your degree carries no knowledge
about the issue. The issue is about definitions
and product labels. You might want to ask Jim
Yanik and others exactly what he/they call rubbing
alcohol. Many people call standard 70% isopropyl
alcohol "rubbing alcohol."

Standard 70 % isopropyl alcohol as bought in drug
and grocery stores contains no oil (at least the
label gives no indication of any oil). Just look
at the ingredients on the label. If one doesn't
want to believe that, then test it for oil.

Charlie Morgan writes:

Rubbing alcohol contains OIL

What magic oil is that, which does not appear on an ingredients label, and
which mixes with water and alcohol?

Rubbing alcohol is not pure, denatured is a bit better, Rubbing alcohol
leaves a visable residue , possibly its the poison in it. JB weld does
not recomend at all Alcohol to clean surfaces because of possible
petroleum products in it. Rubbing alcohol wont clean a camera lens
correctly.

I just did a repair with JB weld in 48hrs at 10-20f it cured hard, JB
says it cures to -60f

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
On 3 Feb 2007 20:08:14 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Charlie Morgan wrote in
m:

On 3 Feb 2007 01:54:52 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

mm wrote in
m:

On 1 Feb 2007 05:52:48 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure"
is for "can be handled"

One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow)
as the long-cure J-B Weld.

This is when i uSUALLY bring up PC-70, which seems to be a lot like JB
Weld, but it doesnt' run and has to be smoothed with a wet finger. It
doesn't automatically become as smooth as JB Weld does.


smoothing works better using rubbing alcohol on your finger.

Rubbing alcohol contains OIL

CWM

so does the skin of your finger.

My isopropyl alk hs no oil. Better go read the labels in the pharmacy.

Words on labels can be VERY misleading. Did you know that "better" is superior
to "best"? It is in advertising! Do you know what it means if something is
labeled "All natural"? It merely means that it isn't made of plastic. Dog poop
is "all natural", and so is arsenic.

Do and believe whatever you like.

Googled and read at least a dozen sites talking about rubbing alcohol (isopropyl
alcohol) ingredients including several MSDS sheets. No oil mentioned at all.

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
Good for you, Rick. Means nothing. Go read the ingredients on every box of
cereal in the supermarket. Does even one of them mention "insect fragments" or
"rodent hair and feces" as ingredients? There is some in every box,
regardless.
There are even government standards for how much there can be.

So what you actually meant was "Don't use any product ever because they contain
trace elements of stuff not listed in their ingredients." Why didn't you just
say that in the first place?

(when you find yourself in a hole, stop digging)

On Feb 2, 8:54 pm, Jim Yanik wrote:
mm wrote :

On 1 Feb 2007 05:52:48 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure"
is for "can be handled"

One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow)
as the long-cureJ-BWeld.

This is when i uSUALLY bring up PC-70, which seems to be a lot likeJB
Weld, but it doesnt' run and has to be smoothed with a wet finger. It
doesn't automatically become as smooth asJBWelddoes.

smoothing works better using rubbing alcohol on your finger.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Another tip for using epoxy: If you don't want the epoxy to stick to
something, coat it with vaseline first. For example, coat a straw with
vaseline, pack epoxy with filler around it and when the epoxy cures,
slide the straw out and you'll have nice smooth hole through the
epoxy. It's also great for those areas that you need to protect from
the epoxy so you don't end up locking up something that should be able
to move.

JB Weld will probably fail if the surface is cleaned with Alcohol,, that
what JB said to me the other day, its the petroluem impurities, likely
the poison.

Gerry Atrick wrote in
:

On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 20:59:56 -0600, "Steve Barker"
wrote:

You are correct. The longer the cure takes, the better the bond. I
won't use jbquik.



If thats the case, I want some JB Century. (Takes a Century to cure),
but is stronger than God himself.

Actually I think I have some JB Century. About a year ago I mixed
half JB Weld and half JB Kwik by accident. It was half hardner and
half resin, but the stuff never hardened. One year later its still
soft, and I even put the metal object on top of my wood furnace for
awhile hoping the heat would cure it. Nothing will harden it. I had
glued an air filter canister from a small engine to a piece of
plumbing pipe to use as an air intake for an air compressor. Since it
never hardened, I just bought a air filter made for the compressor,
but just for the hell of it, I still have that old glued piece and I
am waiting to see how long it takes to cure and harden. Maybe it never
will.


probably too much hardener.Only thing to do is to scrape off the old stuff
and re-do it.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net