I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?


I used the JB Kwik stuff, and it is as good as the JB Weld. When I want to
fix something, there's no use of just not letting it sit for 24 hours. Only
thing I can see is that it is a slightly different color (darker) and it
sits up a little faster, which would help if you're using it in a location
that is going to sag.

I'd say they both would be cured in 24 hours.

Steve

DerbyDad03 writes:

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

JB "Weld" is simply epoxy and filler.

Your intuition is correct. Faster setting epoxy is weaker than slower
setting, both in compressive strength and bond strength.

See the excellent downloadable manuals on epoxy products and applications:

http://www.systemthree.com/

On Jan 31, 9:08 pm, Richard J Kinch wrote:
DerbyDad03 writes:
My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

JB "Weld" is simply epoxy and filler.

Your intuition is correct. Faster setting epoxy is weaker than slower
setting, both in compressive strength and bond strength.

See the excellent downloadable manuals on epoxy products and applications:

http://www.systemthree.com/

Thanks for the response. I am very familiar with epoxies and fillers.
I have the West Systems pump setup, but I only use it when I need more
than a little bit. http://www.westsystem.com/

Even with the smaller pumps, you get more than you need for most
simple repairs and it's a bit more expensive. That's why I use the JB
product for small fixes. I assumed the Kwik set stuff would be weaker
but I just thought I'd check.

Thanks again.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in
ups.com:

On Jan 31, 9:08 pm, Richard J Kinch wrote:
DerbyDad03 writes:
My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

JB "Weld" is simply epoxy and filler.

Your intuition is correct. Faster setting epoxy is weaker than
slower setting, both in compressive strength and bond strength.

See the excellent downloadable manuals on epoxy products and
applications:

http://www.systemthree.com/

Thanks for the response. I am very familiar with epoxies and fillers.
I have the West Systems pump setup, but I only use it when I need more
than a little bit. http://www.westsystem.com/

For smaller measures of epoxy resin and hardener,you can use those oral
syringes the pharmacies have for dispensing medicines.They're pretty
inexpensive,use one for resin,another for hardener.
I also have some small 1 oz graduated cups made for measuring
medicines;they are calibrated in cc's,mL,drams,and fractions of oz.You can
buy a stack of 100 for less than $10 at WalMart.They are GREAT for
measuring/mixing small amounts of epoxy.I just pour in the resin to the
desired amt,and the hardener on top to its required amt,and stir.

I use RAKA(similar to West),J-B Weld,and Hysol 608 epoxies.
(used some tonight!)


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Jan 31, 9:08 pm, Richard J Kinch wrote:

JB "Weld" is simply epoxy and filler.


SIMPLY EPOXY?!??! JB Weld is the substance which holds the universe
together!

Well, that and duct tape.



-rev

You are correct. The longer the cure takes, the better the bond. I won't
use jbquik.

--
Steve Barker


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?

On 31 Jan 2007 17:05:18 -0800, "DerbyDad03"
wrote:

I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?

Sometimes I hold things together with Ambroid Cement, which dries in
less than 5 mintues (although I give it a half hour to "cure") and
then put on expoxy to really hold it. I make sure there are plenty of
bonding places that the Ambroid Cement** isn't touching.

**Available at hobby stores only. Comes in one tube, pretty strong
but can be broken apart later if need be.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in
oups.com:

I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.

My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.

Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?



longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure" is
for "can be handled"

One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow) as
the long-cure J-B Weld.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On 1 Feb 2007 05:52:48 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure" is
for "can be handled"

One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow) as
the long-cure J-B Weld.

This is when i uSUALLY bring up PC-70, which seems to be a lot like JB
Weld, but it doesnt' run and has to be smoothed with a wet finger. It
doesn't automatically become as smooth as JB Weld does.

mm wrote in
:

On 1 Feb 2007 05:52:48 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure"
is for "can be handled"

One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow)
as the long-cure J-B Weld.

This is when i uSUALLY bring up PC-70, which seems to be a lot like JB
Weld, but it doesnt' run and has to be smoothed with a wet finger. It
doesn't automatically become as smooth as JB Weld does.


smoothing works better using rubbing alcohol on your finger.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Feb 2, 8:54 pm, Jim Yanik wrote:
mm wrote :

On 1 Feb 2007 05:52:48 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure"
is for "can be handled"

One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow)
as the long-cureJ-BWeld.

This is when i uSUALLY bring up PC-70, which seems to be a lot likeJB
Weld, but it doesnt' run and has to be smoothed with a wet finger. It
doesn't automatically become as smooth asJBWelddoes.

smoothing works better using rubbing alcohol on your finger.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Another tip for using epoxy: If you don't want the epoxy to stick to
something, coat it with vaseline first. For example, coat a straw with
vaseline, pack epoxy with filler around it and when the epoxy cures,
slide the straw out and you'll have nice smooth hole through the
epoxy. It's also great for those areas that you need to protect from
the epoxy so you don't end up locking up something that should be able
to move.

JB Weld will probably fail if the surface is cleaned with Alcohol,, that
what JB said to me the other day, its the petroluem impurities, likely
the poison.