I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt for
the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted into a
cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in the
bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found about 4
of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large cutout in
put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed into
the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than putting
a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why that's
done in the first place.

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt for
the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted into a
cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in the
bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate?

The bolt will snap if you tryu to straighten it. If you have concerns, you
should add anchors.





None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

It does not have to contact the foundation.


BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".

Same reason everything else has gone up. Cost of energy is a huge factor, as
well as supply and demand. Lots of homes in the south are in need of
drywall.

Eigenvector wrote:
I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt for
the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted into a
cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in the
bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found about 4
of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large cutout in
put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed into
the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than putting
a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why that's
done in the first place.

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".

EV-

If you're concerned about the anchors & sill ......I'd move ~ 1' away
from the defective one & install new ones (two for each f'd up
one)......overkill but I cannot tell from here if the sill is somewhat
compromised by the hatchet job.

In seismic areas I'd use a Sika epoxy....non-seismic a Hilti Quik bolt,
RedHead or Rawl wedge anchor

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

I don't understand this comment .....what's it sitting on if it's 1/2"
up?


Where are you located? 5/8" drywall in SoCal is not $16

cheers
Bob

"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...

Eigenvector wrote:
I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt
for
the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted into
a
cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in the
bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found about
4
of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large cutout
in
put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed
into
the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than
putting
a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why
that's
done in the first place.

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking
at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".

EV-

If you're concerned about the anchors & sill ......I'd move ~ 1' away
from the defective one & install new ones (two for each f'd up
one)......overkill but I cannot tell from here if the sill is somewhat
compromised by the hatchet job.

In seismic areas I'd use a Sika epoxy....non-seismic a Hilti Quik bolt,
RedHead or Rawl wedge anchor

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking
at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

I don't understand this comment .....what's it sitting on if it's 1/2"
up?


Where are you located? 5/8" drywall in SoCal is not $16

cheers
Bob


Maybe I ought to take a photo of this to make it clearer what I mean.
Although based on what Pawlowski indicated it doesn't sound too important.

I personally am not worried about it so much as I'd like to correct it while
I have a good opportunity

http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PA210055.JPG
That's pretty representative of the gap, the actual board is resting on a
small nubbin of concrete, but it ain't much. Its wide enough to see
daylight through, wide enough for the buggies to get in without too much
trouble. The house is post and pier foundation, the basement was an
addition.

http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PA210056.JPG
there's the bolt, again pretty representative of how the sill plate is
attached to the foundation.

Again, since the wall IS going to be open (as if I haven't started yet) I
just kind of wondered if there was something I could do about it. So far
I've been stuffing the gaps with Great Stuff, pretty handy really.

As to 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8", that's what Lowe's is selling it for over
my way.

Eigenvector wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...

Eigenvector wrote:
I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt
for
the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted into
a
cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in the
bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found about
4
of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large cutout
in
put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed
into
the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than
putting
a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why
that's
done in the first place.

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking
at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".

EV-

If you're concerned about the anchors & sill ......I'd move ~ 1' away
from the defective one & install new ones (two for each f'd up
one)......overkill but I cannot tell from here if the sill is somewhat
compromised by the hatchet job.

In seismic areas I'd use a Sika epoxy....non-seismic a Hilti Quik bolt,
RedHead or Rawl wedge anchor

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking
at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

I don't understand this comment .....what's it sitting on if it's 1/2"
up?


Where are you located? 5/8" drywall in SoCal is not $16

cheers
Bob


Maybe I ought to take a photo of this to make it clearer what I mean.
Although based on what Pawlowski indicated it doesn't sound too important.

I personally am not worried about it so much as I'd like to correct it while
I have a good opportunity

http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PA210055.JPG
That's pretty representative of the gap, the actual board is resting on a
small nubbin of concrete, but it ain't much. Its wide enough to see
daylight through, wide enough for the buggies to get in without too much
trouble. The house is post and pier foundation, the basement was an
addition.

http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PA210056.JPG
there's the bolt, again pretty representative of how the sill plate is
attached to the foundation.

Again, since the wall IS going to be open (as if I haven't started yet) I
just kind of wondered if there was something I could do about it. So far
I've been stuffing the gaps with Great Stuff, pretty handy really.

As to 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8", that's what Lowe's is selling it for over
my way.


EV-

Good photos.....What I got out of them is....the sill does contact but
intermitently / incompletely.

If it really bothers you & you want the final result to be as if the
concrete / sill interface had been done right...........I'd fill it
with SiKA Sikadur Epoxy fast set....... Stronger than concrete.

If you just want to fill the gap (non-structural) use caulk or foam.

The sill bolts are a hack job but unless you have e/q's or high
winds........

If you don't want to do the double wedge anchors....consider a coupling
nut . Add a large washer to span cut & bolt to tighten the whole
thing up.

I'd do the double wedge anchors, probably faster & easier..

cheers
Bob

"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...

Eigenvector wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...

Eigenvector wrote:
I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt
for
the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted
into
a
cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in
the
bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found
about
4
of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large
cutout
in
put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed
into
the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than
putting
a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why
that's
done in the first place.

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact
the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm
looking
at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".

EV-

If you're concerned about the anchors & sill ......I'd move ~ 1' away
from the defective one & install new ones (two for each f'd up
one)......overkill but I cannot tell from here if the sill is somewhat
compromised by the hatchet job.

In seismic areas I'd use a Sika epoxy....non-seismic a Hilti Quik bolt,
RedHead or Rawl wedge anchor

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact
the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm
looking
at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

I don't understand this comment .....what's it sitting on if it's 1/2"
up?


Where are you located? 5/8" drywall in SoCal is not $16

cheers
Bob


Maybe I ought to take a photo of this to make it clearer what I mean.
Although based on what Pawlowski indicated it doesn't sound too
important.

I personally am not worried about it so much as I'd like to correct it
while
I have a good opportunity

http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PA210055.JPG
That's pretty representative of the gap, the actual board is resting on a
small nubbin of concrete, but it ain't much. Its wide enough to see
daylight through, wide enough for the buggies to get in without too much
trouble. The house is post and pier foundation, the basement was an
addition.

http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PA210056.JPG
there's the bolt, again pretty representative of how the sill plate is
attached to the foundation.

Again, since the wall IS going to be open (as if I haven't started yet) I
just kind of wondered if there was something I could do about it. So far
I've been stuffing the gaps with Great Stuff, pretty handy really.

As to 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8", that's what Lowe's is selling it for
over
my way.


EV-

Good photos.....What I got out of them is....the sill does contact but
intermitently / incompletely.

If it really bothers you & you want the final result to be as if the
concrete / sill interface had been done right...........I'd fill it
with SiKA Sikadur Epoxy fast set....... Stronger than concrete.

If you just want to fill the gap (non-structural) use caulk or foam.

The sill bolts are a hack job but unless you have e/q's or high
winds........

If you don't want to do the double wedge anchors....consider a coupling
nut . Add a large washer to span cut & bolt to tighten the whole
thing up.

I'd do the double wedge anchors, probably faster & easier..

cheers
Bob


Alright, thank you.

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
. ..

"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...

Eigenvector wrote:
I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt
for
the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted into
a
cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in the
bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found about
4
of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large cutout
in
put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed
into
the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than
putting
a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why
that's
done in the first place.

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact
the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking
at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".

EV-

If you're concerned about the anchors & sill ......I'd move ~ 1' away
from the defective one & install new ones (two for each f'd up
one)......overkill but I cannot tell from here if the sill is somewhat
compromised by the hatchet job.

In seismic areas I'd use a Sika epoxy....non-seismic a Hilti Quik bolt,
RedHead or Rawl wedge anchor

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact
the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking
at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

I don't understand this comment .....what's it sitting on if it's 1/2"
up?


Where are you located? 5/8" drywall in SoCal is not $16

cheers
Bob


Maybe I ought to take a photo of this to make it clearer what I mean.
Although based on what Pawlowski indicated it doesn't sound too important.

I personally am not worried about it so much as I'd like to correct it
while I have a good opportunity

http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PA210055.JPG
That's pretty representative of the gap, the actual board is resting on a
small nubbin of concrete, but it ain't much. Its wide enough to see
daylight through, wide enough for the buggies to get in without too much
trouble. The house is post and pier foundation, the basement was an
addition.

http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PA210056.JPG
there's the bolt, again pretty representative of how the sill plate is
attached to the foundation.

Again, since the wall IS going to be open (as if I haven't started yet) I
just kind of wondered if there was something I could do about it. So far
I've been stuffing the gaps with Great Stuff, pretty handy really.

As to 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8", that's what Lowe's is selling it for over
my way.
Believe it or not, a lot of houses are not secured to the foundation at all.
Many are sitting on loose rock or on cement blocks with absolutely nothing
except the weight of the house to keep them in place. It seems strange, but
some of them have been through a lot of storms and are still in the same
place.

Don Young

On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 16:26:21 -0700, "Eigenvector"
wrote:

I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt for
the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted into a
cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in the
bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found about 4
of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large cutout in
put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed into
the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than putting
a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why that's
done in the first place.


Because the builder was an idiot or too cheap to do the job right.

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

Anchor bolt brackets to the foundation and attach to the wood.


BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".


Cuz our (F~#&!^%) president is sending all our resources to Iraq.
Same reason steel and copper are outrageous these days.