Eigenvector wrote:
I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt for
the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted into a
cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in the
bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found about 4
of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large cutout in
put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed into
the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than putting
a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why that's
done in the first place.

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".

EV-

If you're concerned about the anchors & sill ......I'd move ~ 1' away
from the defective one & install new ones (two for each f'd up
one)......overkill but I cannot tell from here if the sill is somewhat
compromised by the hatchet job.

In seismic areas I'd use a Sika epoxy....non-seismic a Hilti Quik bolt,
RedHead or Rawl wedge anchor

None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.

I don't understand this comment .....what's it sitting on if it's 1/2"
up?


Where are you located? 5/8" drywall in SoCal is not $16

cheers
Bob