Eigenvector wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...
Eigenvector wrote:
I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt
for
the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted into
a
cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in the
bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found about
4
of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large cutout
in
put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed
into
the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than
putting
a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why
that's
done in the first place.
None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking
at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.
BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".
EV-
If you're concerned about the anchors & sill ......I'd move ~ 1' away
from the defective one & install new ones (two for each f'd up
one)......overkill but I cannot tell from here if the sill is somewhat
compromised by the hatchet job.
In seismic areas I'd use a Sika epoxy....non-seismic a Hilti Quik bolt,
RedHead or Rawl wedge anchor
None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking
at
ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.
I don't understand this comment .....what's it sitting on if it's 1/2"
up?
Where are you located? 5/8" drywall in SoCal is not $16
cheers
Bob
Maybe I ought to take a photo of this to make it clearer what I mean.
Although based on what Pawlowski indicated it doesn't sound too important.
I personally am not worried about it so much as I'd like to correct it while
I have a good opportunity
http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PA210055.JPG
That's pretty representative of the gap, the actual board is resting on a
small nubbin of concrete, but it ain't much. Its wide enough to see
daylight through, wide enough for the buggies to get in without too much
trouble. The house is post and pier foundation, the basement was an
addition.
http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PA210056.JPG
there's the bolt, again pretty representative of how the sill plate is
attached to the foundation.
Again, since the wall IS going to be open (as if I haven't started yet) I
just kind of wondered if there was something I could do about it. So far
I've been stuffing the gaps with Great Stuff, pretty handy really.
As to 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8", that's what Lowe's is selling it for over
my way.
EV-
Good photos.....What I got out of them is....the sill does contact but
intermitently / incompletely.
If it really bothers you & you want the final result to be as if the
concrete / sill interface had been done right...........I'd fill it
with SiKA Sikadur Epoxy fast set....... Stronger than concrete.
If you just want to fill the gap (non-structural) use caulk or foam.
The sill bolts are a hack job but unless you have e/q's or high
winds........
If you don't want to do the double wedge anchors....consider a coupling
nut . Add a large washer to span cut & bolt to tighten the whole
thing up.
I'd do the double wedge anchors, probably faster & easier..
cheers
Bob