If a new construction house is seeded and strawed, how long before I
can predict those bald spots don't have seed? meaning I see bare spots
after 7-10 days, should I put down more seed, or have some patience?

Some weeds were on dirt when seed as put in. Thoughts on removing the
weeds? Do I risk killing the new grass planted close to the weeds?

Does straw disintegrate/ decompose or do I need to rake it? When do I
rake it?

jIM wrote:
If a new construction house is seeded and strawed, how long before I
can predict those bald spots don't have seed? meaning I see bare
spots after 7-10 days, should I put down more seed, or have some
patience?

Some weeds were on dirt when seed as put in. Thoughts on removing the
weeds? Do I risk killing the new grass planted close to the weeds?

Does straw disintegrate/ decompose or do I need to rake it? When do I
rake it?

It would help a lot to know where your new home is located. Advice for
Seattle WA, Atlanta GA and Cleveland OH would not be the same. Also when
was it seeded and with what kind of seed?

Assuming middle of the road cool weather grasses, I would suggest not
worrying until the grass is well established. Make sure it does not totally
dry out and that you follow the instructions you received about watering and
the first cut. After the second cut, if you still have large empty areas,
you might try to reseed them. Thin spots will fill in. After at least 60
days after the first cut, you can consider some weed control. I would
suggest caution and use minimal applications, spot application if possible.

Fall will be the time to really take a look and address any remaining
thin or bare spots. Fall is the best time of the year to start grass in
most of the US. Trying to start grass in mid-summer is doing it the hard
way.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Where do you live. That will determine advice. For northern grasses like
fescue, planting during summer is wasted effort. For southern grasses like
centipede or zoysia, mostly use sods or sprigs in summer.


"jIM" wrote in message
oups.com...
If a new construction house is seeded and strawed, how long before I
can predict those bald spots don't have seed? meaning I see bare spots
after 7-10 days, should I put down more seed, or have some patience?

Some weeds were on dirt when seed as put in. Thoughts on removing the
weeds? Do I risk killing the new grass planted close to the weeds?

Does straw disintegrate/ decompose or do I need to rake it? When do I
rake it?

"jIM" wrote in message
oups.com...
If a new construction house is seeded and strawed, how long before I
can predict those bald spots don't have seed? meaning I see bare spots
after 7-10 days, should I put down more seed, or have some patience?

Some weeds were on dirt when seed as put in. Thoughts on removing the
weeds? Do I risk killing the new grass planted close to the weeds?

Does straw disintegrate/ decompose or do I need to rake it? When do I
rake it?


No need to repeat Mr. Meehan's excellent advice. I'll just add that it would
help to know how you're keeping it moist. The instructions on seed bags is
for people who are either unemployed, retired, or taking a week off from
work: "Keep constantly & evenly moist". Water correctly before you leave for
work, and if it's a warm sunny day, that moisture's gone in 2 hours. At the
other extreme, you have to avoid what I call "splotch watering" - using a
stream of water that blasts the seed out of one entire area, resulting in
bare spots.

How are you watering?

"jIM" wrote in message
oups.com...
If a new construction house is seeded and strawed, how long before I
can predict those bald spots don't have seed? meaning I see bare spots
after 7-10 days, should I put down more seed, or have some patience?

Some weeds were on dirt when seed as put in. Thoughts on removing the
weeds? Do I risk killing the new grass planted close to the weeds?

Does straw disintegrate/ decompose or do I need to rake it? When do I
rake it?


Fir the weeds, don't use a herbacide yet, just rake them out or pull them
for now. Keep them under control until it is time to use a systemic weed
and feed product or at least long enough for the grass to establish before
using a broad spectrum herbacide.

On 8 Jun 2006 06:07:31 -0700, "jIM" wrote:

If a new construction house is seeded and strawed, how long before I
can predict those bald spots don't have seed? meaning I see bare spots
after 7-10 days, should I put down more seed, or have some patience?


Most grasses will germinate in 10 to 14 days provided there is
adequate moisture. You can add additional seed on bare spots, but
protect these areas with straw. I watered every other day unless
there was rain.

Some weeds were on dirt when seed as put in. Thoughts on removing the
weeds? Do I risk killing the new grass planted close to the weeds?


I wouldn't be too concerned about weeds at this time, although I'd
pull out any crabgrass and certainly keep it from seeding. Wait at
least 6 months to treat weeds, better wait until next spring.
Hand-pulling can be done now.

Does straw disintegrate/ decompose or do I need to rake it? When do I
rake it?

Leave it alone. It will continue to protect the grass, decompose, and
add organic matter to the soil.

Art wrote:
Where do you live. That will determine advice. For northern grasses like
fescue, planting during summer is wasted effort. For southern grasses like
centipede or zoysia, mostly use sods or sprigs in summer.

Cincinnati, Ohio

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"jIM" wrote in message
oups.com...
If a new construction house is seeded and strawed, how long before I
can predict those bald spots don't have seed? meaning I see bare spots
after 7-10 days, should I put down more seed, or have some patience?

Some weeds were on dirt when seed as put in. Thoughts on removing the
weeds? Do I risk killing the new grass planted close to the weeds?

Does straw disintegrate/ decompose or do I need to rake it? When do I
rake it?


No need to repeat Mr. Meehan's excellent advice. I'll just add that it would
help to know how you're keeping it moist. The instructions on seed bags is
for people who are either unemployed, retired, or taking a week off from
work: "Keep constantly & evenly moist". Water correctly before you leave for
work, and if it's a warm sunny day, that moisture's gone in 2 hours. At the
other extreme, you have to avoid what I call "splotch watering" - using a
stream of water that blasts the seed out of one entire area, resulting in
bare spots.

How are you watering?

I water each portion of lawn once per day. I do one area with a
sprinkler at lunch, then more areas when I come home at 5:00 until
8:00, moving sprinker every 45 minutes. We are also getting some rain
which is helping.

PipeDown wrote:
"jIM" wrote in message
oups.com...
If a new construction house is seeded and strawed, how long before I
can predict those bald spots don't have seed? meaning I see bare spots
after 7-10 days, should I put down more seed, or have some patience?

Some weeds were on dirt when seed as put in. Thoughts on removing the
weeds? Do I risk killing the new grass planted close to the weeds?

Does straw disintegrate/ decompose or do I need to rake it? When do I
rake it?


Fir the weeds, don't use a herbacide yet, just rake them out or pull them
for now. Keep them under control until it is time to use a systemic weed
and feed product or at least long enough for the grass to establish before
using a broad spectrum herbacide.

what type of weed killer works with grass?

how soon should I fertilize the new lawn?

On 13 Jun 2006 06:50:32 -0700, "jIM"
wrote:


PipeDown wrote:
"jIM" wrote in message
oups.com...
If a new construction house is seeded and strawed, how long before I
can predict those bald spots don't have seed? meaning I see bare spots
after 7-10 days, should I put down more seed, or have some patience?

Some weeds were on dirt when seed as put in. Thoughts on removing the
weeds? Do I risk killing the new grass planted close to the weeds?

Does straw disintegrate/ decompose or do I need to rake it? When do I
rake it?


Fir the weeds, don't use a herbacide yet, just rake them out or pull them
for now. Keep them under control until it is time to use a systemic weed
and feed product or at least long enough for the grass to establish before
using a broad spectrum herbacide.

what type of weed killer works with grass?

I use two kinds, Spectricide and Weed-B-Gone. I mix these
concentrates into a 32 oz spray bottle and spot treat the weeds.
Unlike RoundUp, these products won't kill the grass, although they can
be harsh on grass, particularly newly established grass.

how soon should I fertilize the new lawn?

Use a "starter" fertilizer at the time the seed is spread. Look for
the word "Starter" on the bag. It won't burn seedlings like other
fertilizers. You can also use a processed organic fertilizer, such as
Milorganite.

How long grass takes to germinate depends on the type. Fescue will
take 7-10 days, while blue grass can take 21 days.

Trying to establish a lawn at this time of year in Ohio is extremely
difficult. You have the worst of everything. Increasing temps, strong
competition from weeds, crabgrass germinating, the likelihood of
periods with little rain and high temps ahead, etc. And these are cool
season grasses, which want to grow agressively in fall and spring, not
the high heat of summer. IMO, for any decent size lawn, unless you
have inground sprinklers and water is free, it's just impractical to
be able to successfully establish a lawn from seed now.

Watering once a day from the start might be sufficient in mid Sept or
April, but it isn't going to give good results now. The surface of
the soil needs to be kept constantly damp for the first several weeks.
This time of year, that means watering several times a day. Somewhere
around 11am, 3pm, then 8pm would be good. It doesn't have to be deep,
just enough to keep the surface wet. As the grass comes in, you can
gradually back off the watering frequency, but increase the duration,
so you water deeper.

In all, you may be better off just giving up on what's there with the
plan to kill off everything in early Sept, then reseed. This also
gives you the ability to use quality seed, instead of the typical cheap
crap that a builder will throw down.

wrote:
How long grass takes to germinate depends on the type. Fescue will
take 7-10 days, while blue grass can take 21 days.

Trying to establish a lawn at this time of year in Ohio is extremely
difficult. You have the worst of everything. Increasing temps, strong
competition from weeds, crabgrass germinating, the likelihood of
periods with little rain and high temps ahead, etc. And these are cool
season grasses, which want to grow agressively in fall and spring, not
the high heat of summer. IMO, for any decent size lawn, unless you
have inground sprinklers and water is free, it's just impractical to
be able to successfully establish a lawn from seed now.

Watering once a day from the start might be sufficient in mid Sept or
April, but it isn't going to give good results now. The surface of
the soil needs to be kept constantly damp for the first several weeks.
This time of year, that means watering several times a day. Somewhere
around 11am, 3pm, then 8pm would be good. It doesn't have to be deep,
just enough to keep the surface wet. As the grass comes in, you can
gradually back off the watering frequency, but increase the duration,
so you water deeper.

In all, you may be better off just giving up on what's there with the
plan to kill off everything in early Sept, then reseed. This also
gives you the ability to use quality seed, instead of the typical cheap
crap that a builder will throw down.

My neighbor has been out mowing once already. he and I have the same
builder, and in some places my grass is 4" tall, in other places it's
still dirt.

My backyard is shaded during the day and looks "better" than my front,
but there are still bare spots.

My sides are sloped (60 degree grade?) and there are many more bare
spots.

My front is sloped (10 degree grade?) and the grass is not as tall, and
this gets most of morning/early afternoon sun. There are bare spots
here, mostly at the edges.

I plan on watering some each evening, seeing what grows, and if front
yard hits 3", I will cut, then reseed the bare spots. I base this on
suggestions above that grass doesn't grow well this time of year, so no
reason to put too much effort into the bare spots. Once Fall hits I
will add more seed and try to regrow the bare spots.

jIM wrote:

I plan on watering some each evening, seeing what grows, and if front
yard hits 3", I will cut, then reseed the bare spots. I base this on
suggestions above that grass doesn't grow well this time of year, so no
reason to put too much effort into the bare spots. Once Fall hits I
will add more seed and try to regrow the bare spots.

zackly. In the north of the US, fall is really the best time to seed
grass. I gather that in the south, the spring is it.

On 15 Jun 2006 10:35:55 -0700, "z" wrote:


jIM wrote:

I plan on watering some each evening, seeing what grows, and if front
yard hits 3", I will cut, then reseed the bare spots. I base this on
suggestions above that grass doesn't grow well this time of year, so no
reason to put too much effort into the bare spots. Once Fall hits I
will add more seed and try to regrow the bare spots.

zackly. In the north of the US, fall is really the best time to seed
grass. I gather that in the south, the spring is it.


Not here in TN. Sowing (fescue) grass in the spring is a waste.
Summer droughts are not uncommon and grass goes into dormancy.

jIM wrote:
wrote:
How long grass takes to germinate depends on the type. Fescue will
take 7-10 days, while blue grass can take 21 days.

Trying to establish a lawn at this time of year in Ohio is extremely
difficult. You have the worst of everything. Increasing temps, strong
competition from weeds, crabgrass germinating, the likelihood of
periods with little rain and high temps ahead, etc. And these are cool
season grasses, which want to grow agressively in fall and spring, not
the high heat of summer. IMO, for any decent size lawn, unless you
have inground sprinklers and water is free, it's just impractical to
be able to successfully establish a lawn from seed now.

Watering once a day from the start might be sufficient in mid Sept or
April, but it isn't going to give good results now. The surface of
the soil needs to be kept constantly damp for the first several weeks.
This time of year, that means watering several times a day. Somewhere
around 11am, 3pm, then 8pm would be good. It doesn't have to be deep,
just enough to keep the surface wet. As the grass comes in, you can
gradually back off the watering frequency, but increase the duration,
so you water deeper.

In all, you may be better off just giving up on what's there with the
plan to kill off everything in early Sept, then reseed. This also
gives you the ability to use quality seed, instead of the typical cheap
crap that a builder will throw down.

My neighbor has been out mowing once already. he and I have the same
builder, and in some places my grass is 4" tall, in other places it's
still dirt.

My backyard is shaded during the day and looks "better" than my front,
but there are still bare spots.

My sides are sloped (60 degree grade?) and there are many more bare
spots.

My front is sloped (10 degree grade?) and the grass is not as tall, and
this gets most of morning/early afternoon sun. There are bare spots
here, mostly at the edges.

I plan on watering some each evening, seeing what grows, and if front
yard hits 3", I will cut, then reseed the bare spots. I base this on
suggestions above that grass doesn't grow well this time of year, so no
reason to put too much effort into the bare spots. Once Fall hits I
will add more seed and try to regrow the bare spots.

if water hits the edges, grass grows... must have missed something
early on with that sprinkler...

On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 10:58:41 GMT, Phisherman wrote:

On 15 Jun 2006 10:35:55 -0700, "z" wrote:


jIM wrote:

I plan on watering some each evening, seeing what grows, and if front
yard hits 3", I will cut, then reseed the bare spots. I base this on
suggestions above that grass doesn't grow well this time of year, so no
reason to put too much effort into the bare spots. Once Fall hits I
will add more seed and try to regrow the bare spots.


Daily watering is bad for the grass. My understanding is that a
throrough soaking every 4-7 days is far better than a light
sprinkling every day, or two days, as it encourages deeper roots.

Goedjn wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 10:58:41 GMT, Phisherman wrote:

On 15 Jun 2006 10:35:55 -0700, "z" wrote:


jIM wrote:

I plan on watering some each evening, seeing what grows, and if front
yard hits 3", I will cut, then reseed the bare spots. I base this on
suggestions above that grass doesn't grow well this time of year, so no
reason to put too much effort into the bare spots. Once Fall hits I
will add more seed and try to regrow the bare spots.


Daily watering is bad for the grass. My understanding is that a
throrough soaking every 4-7 days is far better than a light
sprinkling every day, or two days, as it encourages deeper roots.



Yes, for mature grass. The OP is trying to grow new grass. And that
needs to be watered at least once a day. Several times a day if it's
hot and sunny.